Are nuts holding on turbo really one-time use?

I wouldn't want to risk reusing nuts that are holding on a vital engine component.

I agree. I started to do some research and I didn't realize they were brass. I ended up grabbing a new set. Cheap insurance.

I reused the brass ones, your saving money at the cost of stripping head/torx inside. So glad they have both, but i still have wreaked both and had some pretty terrible nights working on the car cause i didn't opt for the $25 in new ones...

Minnesotafats-

Just getting around to that turbo replacement now? How many miles were you able to drive with the wastegate pin loose? It's finally nice to work outside, I totally get it!

Some of us only have one car, not sure I'd limp the Cruze that long..

Good Luck and keep up posted.

I did get around to it. I am going to update my other thread with the nightmare situation I had.

minnesotafats13 said:

I agree. I started to do some research and I didn't realize they were brass. I ended up grabbing a new set. Cheap insurance.

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So you are talking about the copper colored manifold lug nuts? If so, I do not think they are brass. Mine stuck good to a magnetic dish. Maybe just coated steel?

They are torque-to-yield bolts. So, yes.

Does anyone know the torque spec for the manifold nuts? I am replacing my Turbo this weekend and have new nuts, if it arrives that is. It was leaking oil externally out of the clamp, thought it was the return line nut when I replaced it I realized the leak was the turbo itself. 141,000 miles, This car has been less reliable than I expected.. 3 valve covers, 1 battery cable, 1 coolant line for the turbo, 1 crank pulley AKA Harmonic balancer, Now the turbo for $700 in parts alone. There goes all that gas I saved! Anybody remember the Vega.This is it's cousin.

jblackburn said:

They are torque-to-yield bolts. So, yes.

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Torque-to-yield studs or nuts?

Definitely Torque to yield brass nuts (no where near the yield of stainless studs)... basically you round out the threads on the inside of the brass and then tear them up on the way back off. Since the threads are round and worn the torque you apply going back on if you reused them is bogus bc it takes more force to rotate a worn nut and we are talking in-#s here!!!

Straight from alldata.

1. Tighten the 8 turbocharger nuts in a sequence as shown to 8 Nm (71 lb in) .

Minnestoafats--

So did you ever find a 2nd replacement turbo, or are you still looking?

No. I am still fighting with the salvage yard I bought the original one from. They are telling me that I need to pay for shipping and that I am outside of the warranty period. They are associated with LKQ and they have a 6 month warranty for defective parts. I don't know about you, but a broken housing is pretty darn defective.

I have also decided I will just be buying a new turbo from Suburban Chev. They will match GMPD. This will give me the piece of mind I am looking for. I cannot find a Vermont Tuning turbo, so stock it is. I am also going to buy credits for HP Tuners try to find some lost ponies.

They loose their designed self locking feature, unless you want to check them and retorque them at meehh intervals.... get new ones

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minnesotafats13 said:

Straight from alldata.

1. Tighten the 8 turbocharger nuts in a sequence as shown to 8 Nm (71 lb in) .

Click to expand...

I cant find the toqure spec sequence I'm doing a turbo swap right now and want to do it right the first time.

Just curious if the replacement nuts have to be same brass crap or if home depot will work?