Like a whole new beast. It's not quite as zippy as the 1.4T in the Eco that I drove when I was shopping, but it's a *censored* of a lot snappier now.
Same thing. That has already been checked and verified in the thread I linked in the initial post, only they went a bit further and added another decimal point of value....ah, but the "real" question should be: "...what does GM specify the gap should be?"
My guess is that since everyone's findings are all over the place and are nowhere near accurate that GM's and Alldata's listed specs are correct. Seriously, .020 on the 1.8L? That's laughable.My question (and really everyone's should be) is are the plugs gapped wrong or is GMs listed spec wrong?
Considering the increase in economy and performance we've uniformly seen after regapping, I'd say the former.My question (and really everyone's should be) is are the plugs gapped wrong or is GMs listed spec wrong?
You do this one step at a time, patiently and slowly. I believe it's the smaller of the common spark plug sockets to get it out. You'll also need a torx bit, but I don't remember what size it was. Don't adjust gap with one of those coin looking things; you'll need proper feeler gauges. You might otherwise damage the plug as it's an iridium tip. Once you get the engine cover off, the coil bar is right in the center with the two bolts that need removing, and you can wiggle it right out (again, patiently and slowly). Check inside the boots to make sure the springs didn't bind, and proceed to the spark plugs.How the ef do i do this, and where did i put my dad's spark plug ratchet thing.
It's the 5/8" spark plug socket and T-40 torx bit.You do this one step at a time, patiently and slowly. I believe it's the smaller of the common spark plug sockets to get it out. You'll also need a torx bit, but I don't remember what size it was. Don't adjust gap with one of those coin looking things; you'll need proper feeler gauges. You might otherwise damage the plug as it's an iridium tip. Once you get the engine cover off, the coil bar is right in the center with the two bolts that need removing, and you can wiggle it right out (again, patiently and slowly). Check inside the boots to make sure the springs didn't bind, and proceed to the spark plugs.
I've only just used a coin thing. What do you suggest we use for gapping them correctly..?You do this one step at a time, patiently and slowly. I believe it's the smaller of the common spark plug sockets to get it out. You'll also need a torx bit, but I don't remember what size it was. Don't adjust gap with one of those coin looking things; you'll need proper feeler gauges. You might otherwise damage the plug as it's an iridium tip. Once you get the engine cover off, the coil bar is right in the center with the two bolts that need removing, and you can wiggle it right out (again, patiently and slowly). Check inside the boots to make sure the springs didn't bind, and proceed to the spark plugs.
Please report back with what you find as far as the original gaps go.going to be doing this later today as soon as i get home from work
How much does that costPlease report back with what you find as far as the original gaps go.
Adjusting the gap, assuming you have the tools, costs nothing but maybe 15 minutes of your time. The gap tool shouldn't cost more than $3 or so at Pep Boys, Autozone, etc.How much does that cost
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The cost of the tool is my question. Thats the tool linked above? Or just a coin gapper? It looks like itd be more than $3.Adjusting the gap, assuming you have the tools, costs nothing but maybe 15 minutes of your time. The gap tool shouldn't cost more than $3 or so at Pep Boys, Autozone, etc.
Coin gappers aren't recommended with iridium plugs. You can try it, but there's a chance you could break the tip.The cost of the tool is my question. Thats the tool linked above? Or just a coin gapper? It looks like itd be more than $3.
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