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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have a 2014 chevy cruze lt 1.4t auto trans with 86k on the odo

My manual says a ATF change should be done in severe interval at 45k and normal interval at 95k. Since I baby my car i'd say i'm right in between

Well today I got the job done, I did not do a flush I just did a drain and fill and I have a few questions about what i've done.

I drained at cold temp and got about 4.5 quarts out. I replaced with exactly 4 quarts of Dex VI from Castrol - so I am at a loss of about .5

I did not check overfill plug because I didn't want to, why? Because what I got drained out was exactly what I put back in (a little less obviously)

The vehicle takes 9 quarts on a complete flush so that means there is only a little under 50% new fluid so now I ask:



1. Was it worth replacing only about 50% fluid - will it still help even though the other dirty 5qts will dilute the new fluid?
2. Will there be any problems because I am missing .5 quarts? (I can add back in if needed)
3. How long until I need to do a drain and fill again?

Thanks for reading
 

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I don't believe it will make a big difference to the transmission having done half the fluid, since you are correct, it will dilute with dirty fluid, i dont believe it will hold much of a benefit either.

I can't say you won't ruin the tranny, but something to note if you notice a burning clutch smell like a manual transmission can have, you know that smell, you never forget that smell lol

If you notice the transmission rev higher before shifting, or jerking when it shifts, I would immediately replace that .5 regardless of how inconvenient it is.

Xtremerevelution has a DIY tutorial on how to do a total (ish) ATF flush, I'll try to post the thread on here but I have a real hard time with that lol

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't believe it will make a big difference to the transmission having done half the fluid, since you are correct, it will dilute with dirty fluid, i dont believe it will hold much of a benefit either.

I can't say you won't ruin the tranny, but something to note if you notice a burning clutch smell like a manual transmission can have, you know that smell, you never forget that smell lol

If you notice the transmission rev higher before shifting, or jerking when it shifts, I would immediately replace that .5 regardless of how inconvenient it is.

Xtremerevelution has a DIY tutorial on how to do a total (ish) ATF flush, I'll try to post the thread on here but I have a real hard time with that lol

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Thanks for the reply. I did see xtremems post, i just dont want to do a flush at this time, but i know its better. And i drove the car around for 30 minutes after i changed fluid and it was very smooth shifting, i went easy through all the gears. But i'll look out for those symptoms.


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Thanks for the reply. I did see xtremems post, i just dont want to do a flush at this time, but i know its better. And i drove the car around for 30 minutes after i changed fluid and it was very smooth shifting, i went easy through all the gears. But i'll look out for those symptoms.


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I had my local dealer do mine for about $180 with the machine they claim gets about 98% of the fluid in and topped off. I did this at 44k miles.

I chose this because (I had not seen xtremerevelutions DIY) I feel regardless what method you chose you should continue until you have anywhere from 75%-100% of the fluid, the less old fluid you flush out, the recently you should do the next change to make sure the old fluid won't allow slipping, or improper lubrication and damage to the workings of the tranny

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Why did you not follow the GM procedure? It's part of xtremes sticky post (minus the flush part).

There was a mechanic training video by Opel on YouTube for the same trans in the Cruze which was a step by step. Unfortunately that video has been deleted!! Wonder why.

Anyway it specifically calls out the importance of raising the trans fluid temperature to the specified range when topping off. Not doing so may cause a under or over fill.

If I were you, I'd recommend doing this asap to ensure you have the correct fluid level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Why did you not follow the GM procedure? It's part of xtremes sticky post (minus the flush part).

There was a mechanic training video by Opel on YouTube for the same trans in the Cruze which was a step by step. Unfortunately that video has been deleted!! Wonder why.

Anyway it specifically calls out the importance of raising the trans fluid temperature to the specified range when topping off. Not doing so may cause a under or over fill.

If I were you, I'd recommend doing this asap to ensure you have the correct fluid level.
Based off of what ive done, if you were to guess, would you guess i am over or under?


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If you took out 4.5 qts and replaced 4, you're most likely underfilled.

Warm it up and check the level. Add fluid if needed.

Transmissions these days are extremely sensitive to level.

I'd do another drain & fill in 30k.
 

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Doesn't the 6AT have a "Lifetime" fluid that doesn't require changing?

I find that to be bs anyway but just curious as to why you wanted to change the fluid
 

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Doesn't the 6AT have a "Lifetime" fluid that doesn't require changing?

I find that to be bs anyway but just curious as to why you wanted to change the fluid
It does not.

Basically anything but 90-100% highway driving is classified as "severe service" by the manual.

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4.5 quarts is what I got out of mine. I put 4.5 quarts back in, and drove several thousand miles without checking the level. This winter I had the transmission cooler lines replaced, and the mechanic that did it had the lift so he checked the level.

I agree it should be checked, but if you took out 4.5 then put back what you took out.

Over time with leaky hoses this could lead to the transmission being low.

There is a thermal standpipe for the fluid inside the 6T40/6T45. It's important to drain this transmission COLD. Below 160F all the fluid is in the pan. Above 160F, or about there based on what I read, a signficant amount of fluid is trapped in the top part of the trans.

Take a look at the 6T40 disassembly by the youtube handle Gary Ferraro. You'll see him take out the fluid standpipe.

I'm not sure exactly what this is doing, but it might be the way they are setting and maintaining the level in the transmission, or at least the valve body portion of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Doesn't the 6AT have a "Lifetime" fluid that doesn't require changing?

I find that to be bs anyway but just curious as to why you wanted to change the fluid
Because you have to change it, do you not ever change yours?


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
4.5 quarts is what I got out of mine. I put 4.5 quarts back in, and drove several thousand miles without checking the level. This winter I had the transmission cooler lines replaced, and the mechanic that did it had the lift so he checked the level.

I agree it should be checked, but if you took out 4.5 then put back what you took out.

Over time with leaky hoses this could lead to the transmission being low.

There is a thermal standpipe for the fluid inside the 6T40/6T45. It's important to drain this transmission COLD. Below 160F all the fluid is in the pan. Above 160F, or about there based on what I read, a signficant amount of fluid is trapped in the top part of the trans.

Take a look at the 6T40 disassembly by the youtube handle Gary Ferraro. You'll see him take out the fluid standpipe.

I'm not sure exactly what this is doing, but it might be the way they are setting and maintaining the level in the transmission, or at least the valve body portion of it.
Thank you for a quality reply.

I added the other .5

I have very smooth shifting and no symptoms of over rev or anything to suggest low or high fluid. I think i'm good


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It does not.

Basically anything but 90-100% highway driving is classified as "severe service" by the manual.

View attachment 230058
After reading the posts, i got worried and said screw it and jacked the car, removed the wheel, lowered jack and checked level with level stick, then opened over fill and ONE QUART CAME OUT (fluid was warm) why on earth did so much come out?
Im guessing the vehicle needs to be on when unscrewing that overfill plug?

Anyways, i replaced that one quart that came out AND added .5 for what i missed the first time. I have smooth shifting and no fluid issue symptoms. Am i good or should i remove wheel and check again?


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CAUTION: When the fluid is hot you should not remove the fill cap unless the motor is running, and do not turn off the engine when the fill cap is removed. If you do then hot fluid can be expelled out of the fill hole and burn you.

Too little fluid can cause your clutches to burn out. You may not notice any symptoms until it is too late.
 

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After reading the posts, i got worried and said screw it and jacked the car, removed the wheel, lowered jack and checked level with level stick, then opened over fill and ONE QUART CAME OUT (fluid was warm) why on earth did so much come out?
Im guessing the vehicle needs to be on when unscrewing that overfill plug?

Anyways, i replaced that one quart that came out AND added .5 for what i missed the first time. I have smooth shifting and no fluid issue symptoms. Am i good or should i remove wheel and check again?


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You didn't have the fluid hot enough. Check youtube for a video on a sonic transmission fluid change. He mentions adding fluid and the fluid coming out of the check plug early.

The fluid is checked with the fluid hot, and up into the thermal standpipe. With the fluid warm, you didn't have fluid up into that standpipe, rather the fluid was down low near the side plug.

The factory procedure is to fill up to the level plug, install level plug, drive to 180F, pull level plug, set final level. I'm guessing as you drive it up to 180F the standpipe will fill the upper part of the trans. Causing your level check to be slightly low, at this point you add fluid.

This accounts for the 1 quart that drained out on you when you pulled the plug warm. ENGINE MUST BE RUNNING when you pull the plug, or you get a lot of fluid draining out..
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You didn't have the fluid hot enough. Check youtube for a video on a sonic transmission fluid change. He mentions adding fluid and the fluid coming out of the check plug early.

The fluid is checked with the fluid hot, and up into the thermal standpipe. With the fluid warm, you didn't have fluid up into that standpipe, rather the fluid was down low near the side plug.

The factory procedure is to fill up to the level plug, install level plug, drive to 180F, pull level plug, set final level. I'm guessing as you drive it up to 180F the standpipe will fill the upper part of the trans. Causing your level check to be slightly low, at this point you add fluid.

This accounts for the 1 quart that drained out on you when you pulled the plug warm. ENGINE MUST BE RUNNING when you pull the plug, or you get a lot of fluid draining out..
Okay update. Today i decided to fix my errors. I drove the car around for 30 min, let sit for about 15 min. Then i jacked car up took off wheel, lowered jack to level the car, TURNED ON car, ran through all the gears, let sit for about 5 min, then i took off drain plug and fluid came out, but much less than when i did with car off. About .5 quarts came out, then it started very slowly oozing out so i plugged it back in. Am i in the green now?


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That sounds good, but I don't know if I would have let it sit for about 15 minutes after driving it.

This let's the fluid cool down. If you follow the procedure the transmission is going to be hot as fire trying to remove the level plug.

I imagine that's why it's suggested to do it on a lift. The plug is probably hot enough to burn skin at 180F.

I'd leave it alone, you know where you are as far as level, and could always add fluid. You'll feel if shifts are slipping and it goes jerky.
 

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Okay update. Today i decided to fix my errors. I drove the car around for 30 min, let sit for about 15 min. Then i jacked car up took off wheel, lowered jack to level the car, TURNED ON car, ran through all the gears, let sit for about 5 min, then i took off drain plug and fluid came out, but much less than when i did with car off. About .5 quarts came out, then it started very slowly oozing out so i plugged it back in. Am i in the green now?


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I'm not trying to be hard on you and I know you just want to do it the right way but why do you continue to ignore the proper procedures mentioned in this thread already and then wonder if what you did was correct AFTER the fact?

This is not made up. GM specifically states that the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) must be checked at 185-203 degrees F.

The only way to know that your TFT is at the required temps is by a OBD2 device. The torque app (as shown in xtremes sticky post) will do the job. Save yourself all the guess work and do it the right way! <thumbs up>
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm not trying to be hard on you and I know you just want to do it the right way but why do you continue to ignore the proper procedures mentioned in this thread already and then wonder if what you did was correct AFTER the fact?

This is not made up. GM specifically states that the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) must be checked at 185-203 degrees F.

The only way to know that your TFT is at the required temps is by a OBD2 device. The torque app (as shown in xtremes sticky post) will do the job. Save yourself all the guess work and do it the right way! <thumbs up>
Im not ignoring anything. I dont have a lift, i dont have an OBD scanner, and i refuse to dish out $215 for the dealer to do this. My transmission shifted fine before, and after what i did today it is still shifting fine after all the driving i've done. I should not even had touched this crap in the first place, ridiculous that the dumb trans cant just have a pan with a pump that takes what it needs, godforbid it's a little over.

I will just schedule a visit to the dealership, this is too difficult, i dont want to burn myself from 180•F fluid.


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