I just found this out myself as i was trying to fix my misfires due to corroded spring contacts. i found them at NAPA and was hoping i could save myself the $75 by not ordering a whole new coil pack. I ended up breaking the little plastic piece that the boot slides on to the coil pack when i went to picked it up so i needed to replace the whole **** thing anyway. The corrosion was so bad it weakened the plastic and made it very brittle. But definitely nice to know that you can just get the boots and springs separately should they act up again.
ATTENTION!!! 1.4L rubber ignition "spark plug/coil boots" available separately
ATTENTION!!! 1.4L rubber ignition "spark plug/coil boots" available separately
Gotta love it!!! Some 8 ball didn't bother applying any dielectric grease to the ignition coil boots on my 14 Cruze 1.4L, not to mention torque the spark plugs, 2 were only finger tight!!! Upon removal of the coil, 2 boots were stuck on the plugs! I carefully twisted first and pulled and 1 came out without disaster. Murphy's law applied to the second one!!! I couldn't twist it loose and it tore during twisting!!! Around where I live these engines are impossible to find in the wrecking yards!!! Not to mention u-pull it, or pick your part salvage yards!!! So, the quest began. Summit racing had a NGK boot that resembled it, but was going to take a couple of weeks to get it. I finally decided to try my favorite aftermarket parts store NAPA! Sure as s**t, they have them! They are made by Belden and appear from the photo to be an exact duplicate, if not the original manufacturer of it!!! They even come with the spring contact for $7.49 U.S.D. on the website.
I was getting poor mileage, around 18-21 mpg 100% city and was driving it SUPER easy! So I decided to look into the basics first. I opted to get copper plugs considering the potential increase in conductivity over the iridium. Replacing these plugs is literally a 15-20 minute job MAX if you take your time to clean out all the debris in the towers prior to removal, use a proper wire type feeler gauge and "GAP" the plugs at .027 - .028(FYI, copper plugs will be gapped at .032 typically, not the requisite .027 - .028 that the iridiums will be pre-gapped at)(NEVER adjust gaps on any platinum or iridium plug, or the coating will eventually flake off), properly lubricate the spark plug threads with the better copper anti-sieze lubricant, lubricate the rubber boots with the proper dielectric grease, and TORQUE the plugs to spec (18 ft. lbs. or 216 in.lbs.), and use a screwdriver Torx T-30 to hand tighten(actual torque value unknown to me) the coil pack. I will re-evaluate my fuel mileage and if it still remains poor I will replace the oxygen sensor.
Regards!
Gotta love it!!! Some 8 ball didn't bother applying any dielectric grease to the ignition coil boots on my 14 Cruze 1.4L, not to mention torque the spark plugs, 2 were only finger tight!!! Upon removal of the coil, 2 boots were stuck on the plugs! I carefully twisted first and pulled and 1 came out without disaster. Murphy's law applied to the second one!!! I couldn't twist it loose and it tore during twisting!!! Around where I live these engines are impossible to find in the wrecking yards!!! Not to mention u-pull it, or pick your part salvage yards!!! So, the quest began. Summit racing had a NGK boot that resembled it, but was going to take a couple of weeks to get it. I finally decided to try my favorite aftermarket parts store NAPA! Sure as s**t, they have them! They are made by Belden and appear from the photo to be an exact duplicate, if not the original manufacturer of it!!! They even come with the spring contact for $7.49 U.S.D. on the website.
I was getting poor mileage, around 18-21 mpg 100% city and was driving it SUPER easy! So I decided to look into the basics first. I opted to get copper plugs considering the potential increase in conductivity over the iridium. Replacing these plugs is literally a 15-20 minute job MAX if you take your time to clean out all the debris in the towers prior to removal, use a proper wire type feeler gauge and "GAP" the plugs at .027 - .028(FYI, copper plugs will be gapped at .032 typically, not the requisite .027 - .028 that the iridiums will be pre-gapped at)(NEVER adjust gaps on any platinum or iridium plug, or the coating will eventually flake off), properly lubricate the spark plug threads with the better copper anti-sieze lubricant, lubricate the rubber boots with the proper dielectric grease, and TORQUE the plugs to spec (18 ft. lbs. or 216 in.lbs.), and use a screwdriver Torx T-30 to hand tighten(actual torque value unknown to me) the coil pack. I will re-evaluate my fuel mileage and if it still remains poor I will replace the oxygen sensor.
Regards!
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Good to know about the boots/springs. Thanks for sharing.
Just FYI: So called "copper" plugs are actually made out of nickel. Copper is too soft to use for spark plug electrodes. Iridium has lower electrical resistance than nickel and also has much better thermal conductivity (Google it). Platinum is much worse than either.
You will probably get spark blowout at .032. I had the NGK BKR7E standard plugs in my Cruze at .032 and I got blowout. They did perform better than the OEM plugs with the platinum ground electrode when they were gapped at about .027.
It is also inadvisable to use anti-seize. They will actually lubricate the threads, as you said, but that is a bad thing because you will over-torque the plugs. The torque numbers are set without anti-seize lubrication. Most modern spark plugs come with an anti-seize coating already on the threads that won't affect your torque values.
Just FYI: So called "copper" plugs are actually made out of nickel. Copper is too soft to use for spark plug electrodes. Iridium has lower electrical resistance than nickel and also has much better thermal conductivity (Google it). Platinum is much worse than either.
You will probably get spark blowout at .032. I had the NGK BKR7E standard plugs in my Cruze at .032 and I got blowout. They did perform better than the OEM plugs with the platinum ground electrode when they were gapped at about .027.
It is also inadvisable to use anti-seize. They will actually lubricate the threads, as you said, but that is a bad thing because you will over-torque the plugs. The torque numbers are set without anti-seize lubrication. Most modern spark plugs come with an anti-seize coating already on the threads that won't affect your torque values.
Misread your OP, but it's been discussed previously that NAPA has them in their online catalog.
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/249-rockauto/188578-spark-plug-coil-plug-boots-rockauto-com.html
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-g...resistor-part-no-post1910594.html#post1910594
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/249-...coil-plug-boots-rockauto-com.html#post2911610
**** breaks, at least you were able to catch it in time before anything major happened!
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/249-rockauto/188578-spark-plug-coil-plug-boots-rockauto-com.html
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-g...resistor-part-no-post1910594.html#post1910594
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/249-...coil-plug-boots-rockauto-com.html#post2911610
**** breaks, at least you were able to catch it in time before anything major happened!
Thank you, I appreciate the Kudos!Good to know about the boots/springs. Thanks for sharing.
Just FYI: So called "copper" plugs are actually made out of nickel. Copper is too soft to use for spark plug electrodes. Iridium has lower electrical resistance than nickel and also has much better thermal conductivity (Google it). Platinum is much worse than either.
You will probably get spark blowout at .032. I had the NGK BKR7E standard plugs in my Cruze at .032 and I got blowout. They did perform better than the OEM plugs with the platinum ground electrode when they were gapped at about .027.
It is also inadvisable to use anti-seize. They will actually lubricate the threads, as you said, but that is a bad thing because you will over-torque the plugs. The torque numbers are set without anti-seize lubrication. Most modern spark plugs come with an anti-seize coating already on the threads that won't affect your torque values.
Sorry, but accuracy is extremely critical, so I have too be!
carid.c*m
Sometimes referred to as "standard" or "normal", copper spark plugs actually use a nickel-alloy coating for the electrode. Only the inner core itself is copper.l
ngk.c*m1. Anti-seize
NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.NGK General Engineers Torque Specs:
(without gasket)
(without gasket)
The Autolite "copper CORE" spark plugs have a "nickel-alloy" coating on the threads as well as both electrodes, therefore as metallurgy dictates, dissimilar metal(nickel-alloy against aluminum cylinder head)corrosion WILL occur! Anti-sieze provides a dissimilar metal barrier, as well as lubrication for removal, just like NGK's trivalent plating, which FYI, are recommended for Subaru's WITHOUT anti-sieze, due to poor grounding conductivity. I have NOT seen any published specification for the GM LUV/LUJ 1.4L stating dry, or no anti-sieze, along with the torque specifications! Please enlighten me? If in fact there is a note indicating "dry", just subtract 20%(if you wish, or read on) from the torque value. I sure as he** would not want to pull the threads out of MY cylinder head! The low torque value of 18 ft. lbs. combined with an accidental(if you wish) 3.6 ft. lbs. (****, sure is INTERESTING how 18 + 3.6 = 21.6, EXACTLY WITHIN NGK's torque specifications) is negligible at best, there ARE tolerances on ALL fasteners FYI, this is WHY I get payed "BIG BUCKS BUBBA"! DEFINITELY better than the 2 FINGER TIGHT spark plugs I removed, that some "CLOWN" installed, which BTW, can literally tear the threads out of a cylinder head when BOOST PRESSURE are inherently increased on these turbocharged engines!
Sorry for the rant, but you contradicted yourself about the composition of copper spark plugs and begged me to "GOOGLE IT", so I did and I HAD to set you straight(FYI, platinum and nickel ARE very similar in that they have VERY POOR conductivity)! This is exactly why I rarely, if at all share on forums. Facts are facts! Opinions are just that! Everyone has opinions! I'm NOT God, just a layman! ALL information is subjective! It's what YOU choose to do with it that matters! I have worked a parts counter for several years(FYI, I have NEVER, EVER, seen ANY anti-sieze on a spark plug, just hexavalent coating, I'm pretty sure you meant oxygen(O2) sensors, they indeed come with anti-sieze due to the extreme torque values and of course the requisite ignorant clowns who may install them and want to sue out of ignorance, worked on vehicles as a career(pulled threads out of aluminum cylinder heads because of ignorant mechanics!), been wrenching for 47 years, currently I'm entrusted to build the most advanced fighter aircraft known to man(the BIG BUCKS analogy)! But yet, I am just a layman trying to share a tip and not get "flamed" ignorantly!!! I lived in So.CA for 20 years and saw my share of "hornblowers", I can do without, (LIKE FRIEBURGER for instance(douchebag, mommas boy!)! Take it with a grain of salt, I sure did!!!
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
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