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If you're going to go through the trouble to install one of those, why not just get something that actually sounds good? You'll still need to find a solid power source somewhere (likely requiring you to run a power line from the engine bay), and you'll have to splice into a speaker wire somewhere to get the signal, which will require you to either pull back side panels or get a PAC line-out converter (AA-GM44). If you're going to do all that work, find something that will actually be worth your time and will sound good.
 

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Im looking to install one of these in my Eco cruze

I don't have the 6x9's in the rear deck lid what would be the easiest place to tap into the speaker wire???
I have the bazooka bass tube and the easiest place to connect to the stereo is by the hood release. There is a block of wires under that panel. I will forward the pm I received from Cruzeman about doing this since he helped me. Look in your PM for 3 from me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks pat!


I could install a better system but I do like to tube navies of how easy it is to take in and out of my car ! Unless there is somthing better out there in the same price range? I'm open to anything!


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For what you can get a bazooka tube for nowadays, they are well worth the money. I had gotten an 8 inch B-tube a while back basically for free. Guy wanted a pack of smokes for it lol. Hooked it up and it plenty hard enough for me. You could actually see the headliner about the rear view mirror rattling. I really want to find a 12 inch for cheap.
 

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Bazooka tubes are OK. They're very efficient, I'll give them that much. It doesn't take a lot of power to get the "boom boom" they're known for.

The problem is the bottom end roll-off. They don't dig deep. They're usually only to extend down into the 38Hz range, which is OK for most music, but if you're a bass-head then it's going to kill the bass below that freq range and won't give you that nice rumble in the seat many of us enjoy.

I like woofers that dig deep. So deep they leave a hole where they sit. :D There are very few woofers that can do that. In my experience Alpine always fits the bill, primarily the Type E and Type S series. AAMOF, they just redesigned both and they're baddass! The Type S subs are now rated at 500 watts RMS and with the new ribbed surround they're able to reach a much further x-max than they were before, while remaining very stable.

We just did a 2003 Mazda3 at work. We replaced a 12" Type R sub being run by an Alpine MRP-M500 with two 12" Type S subs and a Kenwood KAC-7205 amp pushing them. The Type R had a bad coil. I was in a ported enclosure tuned for 32Hz. The Type S subs we put in a sealed box and after we got them hooked up the guy cranked up some bass songs and rust started falling out of the rear wheel wells. He said "that Type R never did that!!" He said they dug a lot deeper than the Type R ever did.
 

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And what "budget" is that? I failed Mind Reading 101. :p

Just because I mentioned what I've seen work well doesn't mean it's my only suggestion. I just mentioned Alpine because it's one of the other hundreds of subs out there that sound better than Bazooka.

I'm working with what you gave me to work with. If you'd like specific responses, provide more specific questions. ;)
 

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I say 250 max I'm not a base head a single 10 will do fine. It also has to be able to come out the car easily


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Unless a bazooka sub has a quick-disconnect for the wiring, it will be no easier to remove it than a standard subwoofer. With a standard subwoofer, you can mount the amplifier underneath the rear deck, and need to only disconnect one wire to get the sub box out of there.

Have you thought about using a box that you can mount underneath the rear deck?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Unless a bazooka sub has a quick-disconnect for the wiring, it will be no easier to remove it than a standard subwoofer. With a standard subwoofer, you can mount the amplifier underneath the rear deck, and need to only disconnect one wire to get the sub box out of there.

Have you thought about using a box that you can mount underneath the rear deck?
That's why I like bazooka for the quick disconnect never thought about under the deck lid figured it was to expensive and not gaurented to have the space I need


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Unless a bazooka sub has a quick-disconnect for the wiring, it will be no easier to remove it than a standard subwoofer. With a standard subwoofer, you can mount the amplifier underneath the rear deck, and need to only disconnect one wire to get the sub box out of there.

Have you thought about using a box that you can mount underneath the rear deck?
If I may chime in: The Bazooka has a quick connect. Once connected to the wires by the door panel, you run a cable back to the trunk that plugs into the back of the bass tube. The hardest thing in the trunk is finding a good ground. I used my spare tire hold down. If I want/need to remove the tube: Just unplug from the back of the tube and take the tube out. There are 2 straps you connect to the floor that hold the tube in place. If you are like me and just want/need a little more bass: this fits the bill well and is inexpensive. Sure there are better solutions but does really boil down to what you are looking for.
 

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That's why I like bazooka for the quick disconnect never thought about under the deck lid figured it was to expensive and not gaurented to have the space I need


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I could build you a box that would fit underneath, with two 6.5" subs in a ported box.

It would be 36" wide in order to fit between both trunk lid hinges. It would be 16-18" deep, and 4.5" "tall." I would charge you $220 plus shipping for it. It's a bit over your budget including shipping, but it includes a well built ported box, and the subs. All you'd need is an amp, and it would only need to be around 50W RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms.
 

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Anything can become "quick disconnect" if you make it that way. ;)

These work very well for the power and ground. Everything else can be connected with anything from alligator clips to bullet connectors. Just depends on how creative you want to get.

anderson SB50 Green with #6 contacts 6331G9 battery connector forklift battery | eBay

Just throwing this out there as another suggestion...

I just recommended this combo to someone else, as I've had success with it. It's not per-say quick disconnect, but it can be made that way.

amalmer71 said:
You could buy this Alpine 8" sub enclosure, attach a MB Quart FX1.400 (made by the same company that makes Hifonics amps) and be way ahead of the game. Here's a video of that sub in my wife's car being powered by an old skool Punch 150a monoblock rated at 150 watts @ 2 ohms.

Amazon.com: SBR-S83V - Alpine 8" Single Ported Enclosure Loaded with a Type-R Subwoofer: Car Electronics

Amazon.com: MBQUART FX1.400 1 Channel Mono Block: Car Electronics

SSPX0013 - YouTube

I've since installed that box standing up, and it takes up about as much room as a case of pop, and sounds great.
 

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I have the 50w Bazooka. It has a connector and it's only held down by straps so it's easy to take out when you need the full trunk space. I just bought a Dodge pickup and now I'm pretty disatisfied with the Cruze stock base radio w/Bazooka. The Dodge sounds so much better even though both are base radios. So Bazooka=cheap but you might wind up doing everything over again later to get good sound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have the 50w Bazooka. It has a connector and it's only held down by straps so it's easy to take out when you need the full trunk space. I just bought a Dodge pickup and now I'm pretty disatisfied with the Cruze stock base radio w/Bazooka. The Dodge sounds so much better even though both are base radios. So Bazooka=cheap but you might wind up doing everything over again later to get good sound.
When you say you not happy what are u not happy with? did you expect you car to pound and it didnt??
 
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