I'm looking for a sub-woofer that I can fit somewhere out of site in the cabin. I would get a conventional trunk system, but my trunk is frequently full as I travel a lot. I know there isn't a lot of extra space inside of the cabin, but I'm hoping one of you has found a solution! I don't need to rattle windows, I just want the low bass in my rap music to sound more full. Also, price isn't too much of a concern, but obviously cheaper is better! Thanks guys, hope one of y'all comes through!
Best in-cabin subwoofer?
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Joined
·
42 Posts
I've been reading a lot about powered subwoofer units and think either of these would be pretty nice to have. They should fit beneath either the drives or passengers seats.
Kenwood
Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
Kicker
Kicker 11HS8 Hideaway™ compact powered subwoofer: 150 watts and an 8" sub at Crutchfield.com
Kenwood
Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
Kicker
Kicker 11HS8 Hideaway™ compact powered subwoofer: 150 watts and an 8" sub at Crutchfield.com
Joined
·
8,003 Posts
I wish they weren't top firing. It's just a matter of time before dust finds it's way there and then you'll have a buzz as all that stuff does a tap dance to the bass.
Joined
·
145 Posts
There's not really a lot of space under the front seats if that's what you're thinking.
I think there are some options for a pair of 1-way 6x9's on the rear deck that can be used as a subwoofer, then maybe a small class-D 2 channel amp that has a low pass filter to power them.
I think there are some options for a pair of 1-way 6x9's on the rear deck that can be used as a subwoofer, then maybe a small class-D 2 channel amp that has a low pass filter to power them.
Joined
·
42 Posts
If it were me and I wanted more bass I wouldn't be too set on an in-cabin subwoofer. I do understand where you're coming from on a space stand point, but there are some options that would really work well for when your trunk isn't full. I've been looking into a powered subwoofer for my Cruze and I really like the Kicker SubStation. Once everything is wired (power, remote, and input) the subwoofer can be reinstalled and removed by a simple quick release wiring harness and two Velcro straps. Look at it here:
SubStation™ Powered Subwoofers | KICKER®
SubStation™ Powered Subwoofers | KICKER®
Best speakers I could find around 12 years ago was Blaupunkt overdrive 6 by 9 speaker with a really large woofer excursion, so much in fact, needed a 3/8" plastic gasket so the cone would not hit the grille. Were full range speakers with a 40-18,000 frequency response, and two speaker in any vehicle is far more than enough. Extra speakers only cause acoustical phase distortion.
But see they are not available anymore, time to do more searching. Subwoofer is a marketing term done by idiots that also invented peak to peak power. That pounding bass kids love actually occurs at 150 Hz, but my kids are finally outgrowing these, want a balanced response now.
In the Cruze, and mounted in the rear package tray you are not suppose to put packages on because they block your vision, speakers are only a couple of feet apart, and only about 4 feet away from your ears. One little nice circuit is an L-R, R-L low level signal circuit before the power amplifier. By adjusting the lever of the negatives, gives the effect that the speakers are much further apart producing a far superior stereo effect. An equalizer can help suit your taste for more or less bass.
Sound surround would be welcomed for a concert hall effect, but totally impractical in a vehicle, could trade your Cruze in for a Greyhound bus. And get rid of all those seats.
Check out this site for vehicle noise levels.
http://www.auto-decibel-db.com/
Another limiting factor in auto sound systems is the ambient noise level. Cruze 1.4 L is a high 70 db at 75 mph and OSHA says 85 db is the limit to prevent ear damage, leaving only a 15 db dynamic range. This forces me to compress my music for automotive use. Either can't hear it or blowing my ears off. And you sure want to protect your hearing organs, or won't hear anything at all.
For me, 20 watts is way more than enough, lots of factors to consider.
Now who makes a good 6 by 9? And you are not the only one, vehicle is made for transporting people and goods, like some unnecessary items like groceries. Really don't want to take that space up with speakers.
But see they are not available anymore, time to do more searching. Subwoofer is a marketing term done by idiots that also invented peak to peak power. That pounding bass kids love actually occurs at 150 Hz, but my kids are finally outgrowing these, want a balanced response now.
In the Cruze, and mounted in the rear package tray you are not suppose to put packages on because they block your vision, speakers are only a couple of feet apart, and only about 4 feet away from your ears. One little nice circuit is an L-R, R-L low level signal circuit before the power amplifier. By adjusting the lever of the negatives, gives the effect that the speakers are much further apart producing a far superior stereo effect. An equalizer can help suit your taste for more or less bass.
Sound surround would be welcomed for a concert hall effect, but totally impractical in a vehicle, could trade your Cruze in for a Greyhound bus. And get rid of all those seats.
Check out this site for vehicle noise levels.
http://www.auto-decibel-db.com/
Another limiting factor in auto sound systems is the ambient noise level. Cruze 1.4 L is a high 70 db at 75 mph and OSHA says 85 db is the limit to prevent ear damage, leaving only a 15 db dynamic range. This forces me to compress my music for automotive use. Either can't hear it or blowing my ears off. And you sure want to protect your hearing organs, or won't hear anything at all.
For me, 20 watts is way more than enough, lots of factors to consider.
Now who makes a good 6 by 9? And you are not the only one, vehicle is made for transporting people and goods, like some unnecessary items like groceries. Really don't want to take that space up with speakers.
Joined
·
2,495 Posts
The best in my opinion is the tang band 6x9 subs they are 8 ohms though so if you want stereo from them then you will need a strong amp however you can get something with less power if you run them mono. I did this before and loved the results however I went with xtremes crazy ass dual 18s and havent looked back other than my rear view mirror when I have my seats down to see where the sweetness comes from.
Joined
·
2,495 Posts
https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w69-1042j-6x9-subwoofer--264-837
Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofer
The oval shaped frame of the W69-1042 gives you the surface area of a typical 8" driver in the footprint of a 6-1/2". Perfect for constructing a space saving narrow-baffle subwoofer. Also performs well in automotive installs in 6" x 9" locations. High power handling and long excursion for excellent low-bass performance.
Note: Modifications may be required for mounting in factory 6" x 9" openings
Product Specifications
Thiele-Small Parameters
Materials of Construction
Mounting Information
Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)
Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofer
Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofer
The oval shaped frame of the W69-1042 gives you the surface area of a typical 8" driver in the footprint of a 6-1/2". Perfect for constructing a space saving narrow-baffle subwoofer. Also performs well in automotive installs in 6" x 9" locations. High power handling and long excursion for excellent low-bass performance.
Note: Modifications may be required for mounting in factory 6" x 9" openings
Product Specifications
- Nominal Diameter6" x 9"
- Power Handling (RMS)90 Watts
- Power Handling (max)170 Watts
- Impedance8 ohms
- Frequency Response35 to 350 Hz
- Sensitivity87 dB 1W/1m
- Voice Coil Diameter1.5"
- Magnet Weight29.2 oz.
Thiele-Small Parameters
- Resonant Frequency (Fs)35 Hz
- DC Resistance (Re)6.5 ohms
- Voice Coil Inductance (Le)0.91 mH
- Mechanical Q (Qms)3.93
- Electromagnetic Q (Qes)0.4
- Total Q (Qts)0.35
- Compliance Equivalent Volume (Vas)1.07 ft.³
- Mechanical Compliance of Suspension (Cms)0.42 mm/N
- BL Product (BL)13.27 Tm
- Moving Mass Of Diaphragm (Mmd)49.89
- Maximum Linear Excursion (Xmax)7.3 mm
Materials of Construction
- Cone MaterialPaper
- Surround MaterialRubber
- Basket / Frame MaterialSteel
Mounting Information
- Overall Outside Diameter6.5" x 9.2"
- Baffle Cutout Diameter5.5" x 8.25"
- Depth4.18"
- # Mounting Holes4
Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)
- Sealed Volume0.25 ft.³
- Sealed F385 Hz
- Vented Volume0.65 ft.³
- Vented F351 Hz
Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofer
- BrandTang Band
- ModelW69-1042J
- Part Number264-837
- UPC844632009815
- Product CategorySubwoofer Drivers
- Unit of MeasureEA
- Product Rating(28 Reviews)
- Weight6.2601 lbs.
- California Prop 65Warning: California residents only. Please note per Proposition 65 that this product may contain chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
![Car subwoofer Subwoofer Vehicle audio Loudspeaker Audio equipment]()
Hit an inductor with a voltage, no current wants to flow, develops a high BEMF that reduces the response, and its current that develops the magnetic field that interacts with the permanent magnet to cause voice coil movement.
DC resistance of the voice coil is an indirect means to limit the power requirements of the speaker, but the key factor is the ampere-turns product. Greater resistance requires more turns because this lowers the current, but also has the nasty effect of increasing the inductance drastically increasing the AC impedance of the speaker. This impedance increases proportionately with frequency.
Actually gained better frequency response in a home system by using low resistant auto type speakers and adding a passive fixed power resistor. TC=L/R, and the higher the R, the lower the time constant and the better the response. But that resistor is necessary to reduce the DC current as to not overload the amplifier, but does this without increasing the inductance that drastically increases the impedance of the speaker. With an average amplifier output of 100 watts per channel, hardly go above five watts per channel anyway, or will blow out your windows in your home.
That resistance does nothing more than dissipate heat, wasted energy, ignition coils were designed this way using the resistance of the primary coil to limit current that also increased the power dissipation. Ideal resistance is zero ohms, got around this by hitting it with a controlled current pulse from the electronics. The lower turns count, and increasing the current gives the same AT product but at much lower impedance. Therefore the pulse can be made much shorter, and with far less heat generated in the coil, can be made much smaller.
Ha, thought about this for an amplifier, tricky to design a controlled current source to eliminate that high impedance of a speaker voice coil. So have to live with a lot of wasted heat and reduced frequency response. Have both an AC and a DC component in these designs.
A standard bridged output audio amplifier chip operating at 14V will output 7 volts at each speaker terminal with a zero input signal. One key reason why both outputs have to be floating, ground a terminal will short out the amplifier. But most are power protected and will shut down.
With a full signal applied, either side will go up to 13.5V, other side down to 0.5 V for a peak signal of 13 V, or an RMS voltage of 9.2 V, this is how positive and negative alternations are generated.
With a standard 4 ohm speaker, 21 watts maximum power output is possible. 8 ohm speaker will only be 10.5 watts, where a 2 ohm speaker jumps up 42 watts, if the radio is rated for this. For greater power outputs, a DC to DC converter must be used to step up that 14V line voltage, if doubled, power output will increase by the square of this voltage with the same resistance voice coil.
Speakers are erroneous rated on the maximum power they can handle before they turn into toast. But doesn't have anything to do with distortion. Is very difficult to find a speaker that can even handle 12 watts of power before they go into distortion. With a woofer, the cone can only move so far even with a drastic increase with current. And when it quits moving,this is when you get distortion.
DC resistance of the voice coil is an indirect means to limit the power requirements of the speaker, but the key factor is the ampere-turns product. Greater resistance requires more turns because this lowers the current, but also has the nasty effect of increasing the inductance drastically increasing the AC impedance of the speaker. This impedance increases proportionately with frequency.
Actually gained better frequency response in a home system by using low resistant auto type speakers and adding a passive fixed power resistor. TC=L/R, and the higher the R, the lower the time constant and the better the response. But that resistor is necessary to reduce the DC current as to not overload the amplifier, but does this without increasing the inductance that drastically increases the impedance of the speaker. With an average amplifier output of 100 watts per channel, hardly go above five watts per channel anyway, or will blow out your windows in your home.
That resistance does nothing more than dissipate heat, wasted energy, ignition coils were designed this way using the resistance of the primary coil to limit current that also increased the power dissipation. Ideal resistance is zero ohms, got around this by hitting it with a controlled current pulse from the electronics. The lower turns count, and increasing the current gives the same AT product but at much lower impedance. Therefore the pulse can be made much shorter, and with far less heat generated in the coil, can be made much smaller.
Ha, thought about this for an amplifier, tricky to design a controlled current source to eliminate that high impedance of a speaker voice coil. So have to live with a lot of wasted heat and reduced frequency response. Have both an AC and a DC component in these designs.
A standard bridged output audio amplifier chip operating at 14V will output 7 volts at each speaker terminal with a zero input signal. One key reason why both outputs have to be floating, ground a terminal will short out the amplifier. But most are power protected and will shut down.
With a full signal applied, either side will go up to 13.5V, other side down to 0.5 V for a peak signal of 13 V, or an RMS voltage of 9.2 V, this is how positive and negative alternations are generated.
With a standard 4 ohm speaker, 21 watts maximum power output is possible. 8 ohm speaker will only be 10.5 watts, where a 2 ohm speaker jumps up 42 watts, if the radio is rated for this. For greater power outputs, a DC to DC converter must be used to step up that 14V line voltage, if doubled, power output will increase by the square of this voltage with the same resistance voice coil.
Speakers are erroneous rated on the maximum power they can handle before they turn into toast. But doesn't have anything to do with distortion. Is very difficult to find a speaker that can even handle 12 watts of power before they go into distortion. With a woofer, the cone can only move so far even with a drastic increase with current. And when it quits moving,this is when you get distortion.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Join the discussion
