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You in charge of earl now j ? That's nice ! I still want 10 cents from everybody .
 

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As Justin pointed out, the oil has to meet or exceed the dexos1 specification. It does not have to be dexos1 certified. Manual specifically states: "Use only engine oil licensed to the dexos1 specification, or equivalent, of the proper SAE viscosity grade."

The key words there are "or equivalent." Page 11-12 in the owner's manual for 2013.

Those words alone are what are saving GM from a lawsuit on the basis of Magnuson Moss.

As for the degree to which the oil is better, well, that's a topic for a whole new thread. I can guarantee you that both Pennzoil Ultra and AMSOIL Signature Series oils are miles ahead of other group 3-based synthetic oils.

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The problem is you can't just say something is equivalent but without the actual dexos label GM can claim its not. I never questioned the quality of any oil, just the advice being given out here. All I wanted to point out is if it does not have the dexos label you might run into more headache than necessary if you have any problems.

I for one think the whole Dexos license is a BS money grab on GMs part and nothing to do with oil quality at all. That does not mean I would advise anyone to use any non-dexos oil & I certainly run dexos oil everytime.
 

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And would you look at that, under Specifications... dexos1 :)
Hmm...

All other specs (on the spec sheet anyway) look very similar to the old Pennzoil Ultra.

But that NOACK Volatility has gone up from 6.4% to 11.5%. Lame.
*(Of course there were speculations in the first place that the old PU overstated its NOACK levels in the first place).
 

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The problem is you can't just say something is equivalent but without the actual dexos label GM can claim its not. I never questioned the quality of any oil, just the advice being given out here. All I wanted to point out is if it does not have the dexos label you might run into more headache than necessary if you have any problems.

I for one think the whole Dexos license is a BS money grab on GMs part and nothing to do with oil quality at all. That does not mean I would advise anyone to use any non-dexos oil & I certainly run dexos oil everytime.
For the time being, the only company that is noteworthy that doesn't have the Dexos1 label for their synthetic oil is AMSOIL, and they have their own warranty guarantee as well as being the leader in the synthetic oil market in the US for 40 years. In that context, my philosophy is that the dealer doesn't have to know what's in my car. The likelihood of an oil-related failure is so insignificant with any oil that it isn't even worth discussing. The issues you get into with improper oils is things like excessive sludging and the resulting oil starvation from using a dino oil or forgetting to change your oil for way past the OLM interval.

A dealer cannot test the oil and come back and say "this wasn't dexos1 certified." The only instance I have ever heard of where an oil was blamed on the failure of a component was from Smorey, who got in a Cruze full of Royal Purple in a problematic transmission, so he sent the oil out for analysis per his service manager and it came back out of spec. That warranty claim was denied, but for engine oils, I've never seen a catastrophic lubrication related failure that wasn't blamed on owner negligence.

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Hmm...

All other specs (on the spec sheet anyway) look very similar to the old Pennzoil Ultra.

But that NOACK Volatility has gone up from 6.4% to 11.5%. Lame.
Looks like I need to boot that oil from the top of the tiered list. More companies selling out to group 3 base stocks. SMH.

As a side note, I am happy to see companies participating in the NOACK volatility test.

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Looks like I need to boot that oil from the top of the tiered list. More companies selling out to group 3 base stocks. SMH.

As a side note, I am happy to see companies participating in the NOACK volatility test.

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OTOH, the 10w-30 is 5.7%, which is quite low. My car seems to be doing fine on cold starts with the older formula (I am running 10W-30), so I may continue on to the new one with the same viscosity.

Heck, the pour point is a 3 degree difference (-48 vs -45) and everything else is nearly identical.
 

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OTOH, the 10w-30 is 5.7%, which is quite low. My car seems to be doing fine on cold starts with the older formula, so I may continue on to the new one with the same viscosity.

Heck, the pour point is a 3 degree difference (-48 vs -45) and everything else is nearly identical.
Smaller viscosity ranges require fewer viscosity modifiers and result in a much lower volatility. Since the difference is practically negligible till you get to -20C, I often recommend 10W-30 synthetics instead. However, that is on a case by case basis.

The increased NOACK of 11.5% really bothers me. That is pretty severe. Even the new Pennzoil Platinum PurePlus is better at 10.3%.

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For those of you wondering what we're on about, a low NOACK value means that less oil vaporizes at high temp. An oil with a low NOACK value will help reduce crud on intake valves and in the PCV system...possibly the throttle body and intake manifold as well. It's typically the additives that vaporize off, also leaving you with an oil that does its job less well as the miles on that oil change interval accumulate.

Since the Cruze isn't direct-injected, I expect the valves to be fine (they are washed down with gasoline), but small-ish PCV hoses are something that typically clogs with age. EGR is handled by the cam timing, so that's one less thing to worry about clogging as well.

Below 8-9% is good (for a Group III oil), and lower even better.
 

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Hmm...

All other specs (on the spec sheet anyway) look very similar to the old Pennzoil Ultra.

But that NOACK Volatility has gone up from 6.4% to 11.5%. Lame.
*(Of course there were speculations in the first place that the old PU overstated its NOACK levels in the first place).

Ugh really. I wonder if I should return mine now. I change it at no more than 5,000 miles anyhow so I wonder if it's even that big of a deal for me?

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Just checked out QSUD 5w-30 and looks like it specs out at NOACK of 12.3%.

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_X_cbe_24855_key_140003587117_201007020129.pdf
Incredible. Wow. A jump from 8.8% is huge.

Ugh really. I wonder if I should return mine now. I change it at no more than 5,000 miles anyhow so I wonder if it's even that big of a deal for me?

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Run it for 5k and get something else next time around.

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LOL, my Cruze should have blown up by now running exclusively Grp. III based synthetics at 7500-8000 mile intervals (with mostly highway driving) the way some of you all are talking. 83k miles, 80k of those tuned, and it's humming along nicely.

We can debate about what's "best" all day long. For my money, a "good enough" Grp. III based 5w-30 synthetic changed at a reasonable interval will see my engine to the wreckers still purring while the body of the car is shot through with rust in 10-12 years.
 
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LOL, my Cruze should have blown up by now running exclusively Grp. III based synthetics at 7500-8000 mile intervals (with mostly highway driving) the way some of you all are talking. 83k miles, 80k of those tuned, and it's humming along nicely.

We can debate about what's "best" all day long. For my money, a "good enough" Grp. III based 5w-30 synthetic changed at a reasonable interval will see my engine to the wreckers still purring while the body of the car is shot through with rust in 10-12 years.
I completely agree. I would expect your car to make it past 200+K with no lubrication-related failures. It's actually quite rare to see lubrication-related failures with most well-designed engines and just about any good, commonly-sold Grp III oil today.

That courier on the site here has over 200K on his Cruze and I think used GM Dexos-1 for a long while before switching over to Mobil-1.

Every Cruze I've seen with the valve cover open with regular OCI's has been spotless inside, which usually speaks well for the rest of the motor.

The new PU 5W-30, despite that disappointing increase in NOACK, will fit into that category of "gets the job done well enough" to keep using it. I think I'll stick with the 10W-30 for my purposes.
 

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LOL, my Cruze should have blown up by now running exclusively Grp. III based synthetics at 7500-8000 mile intervals (with mostly highway driving) the way some of you all are talking. 83k miles, 80k of those tuned, and it's humming along nicely.

We can debate about what's "best" all day long. For my money, a "good enough" Grp. III based 5w-30 synthetic changed at a reasonable interval will see my engine to the wreckers still purring while the body of the car is shot through with rust in 10-12 years.
We get into this point many times. My rebuttal is exactly the same each time. For some reason, engine oil is an area where people are content with "good enough." We want the best tires, the best wipers, the best fuel, the best tunes, the best washes and waxes, yet we settle for the "good enough" oils because they simply work.

I'm not telling you to go out and buy an expensive oil, but if the data shows Pennzoil-based oils just got worse and you can get something else for the same price if not cheaper and for the same if not more convenience, then why are we stuck on an oil simply because it is "good enough?"

The idea behind my tiered oils list is to help you get the best bang for the buck. If the value is higher elsewhere, logic would dictate that you would purchase the higher value product, and that includes the value of time.

Oh and before I forget. I just got a UOA from a forum member using Pennzoil Platinum on a 8150 mile run with the TBN flagged at 1.7. Not quite good enough.

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It's what I'm going with. Easy to find, cheap, dexos1, and generally good UOAs from every report I've seen.
I believe that's what I'll stay with for now. I'll return the two jugs of PPU since I just bought them.

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Oh and before I forget. I just got a UOA from a forum member using Pennzoil Platinum on a 8150 mile run with the TBN flagged at 1.7. Not quite good enough.
Not quite good enough... for an 8150 run. Did they say where the OLM was reading at? My factory fill is currently at 38% around 4700 mi (though that is winter city driving). Going in for my first change tomorrow, actually.

I wouldn't dream of running our CRV past 7500 oci, let alone a turbo motor with all the extra demand. Maybe that makes me wasteful and old fashioned... it's just not my style.
 
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