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It's what I'm going with. Easy to find, cheap, dexos1, and generally good UOAs from every report I've seen.
I'll post the UOA I just got in an email when I get home. TBN dropped to 1.7 after 8150 miles.

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Question: what oil do they use if you take your Cruze to qwicky lube inc? Do they even know to put in 4.25 qts? Most here are DIY'ers and very knowledgable about their car but I wonder how many Cruzes are driving around with 5 qts of 10w-40 non-syn oil?

JK
 

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Question: what oil do they use if you take your Cruze to qwicky lube inc? Do they even know to put in 4.25 qts? Most here are DIY'ers and very knowledgable about their car but I wonder how many Cruzes are driving around with 5 qts of 10w-40 non-syn oil?

JK
When I asked what fluid they use for automatic they said red. I tried to get something like Merc V, ATF 4 ATF-HP, they said compatible and also used for power steering fluid. I know ATF can be used as power steering fluid but ****, what is going to be put into my car?

The problem is you can't just say something is equivalent but without the actual dexos label GM can claim its not. I never questioned the quality of any oil, just the advice being given out here. All I wanted to point out is if it does not have the dexos label you might run into more headache than necessary if you have any problems.

I for one think the whole Dexos license is a BS money grab on GMs part and nothing to do with oil quality at all. That does not mean I would advise anyone to use any non-dexos oil & I certainly run dexos oil everytime.
LOL I don't care anymore as I'm not going to exceed the normal OCI. I had M1 Ep with Dexos label and that was deemed crap, I swapped to PU with same Dexos label and now that's crap too.
 

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We get into this point many times. My rebuttal is exactly the same each time. For some reason, engine oil is an area where people are content with "good enough." We want the best tires, the best wipers, the best fuel, the best tunes, the best washes and waxes, yet we settle for the "good enough" oils because they simply work.

I'm not telling you to go out and buy an expensive oil, but if the data shows Pennzoil-based oils just got worse and you can get something else for the same price if not cheaper and for the same if not more convenience, then why are we stuck on an oil simply because it is "good enough?"

The idea behind my tiered oils list is to help you get the best bang for the buck. If the value is higher elsewhere, logic would dictate that you would purchase the higher value product, and that includes the value of time.

Oh and before I forget. I just got a UOA from a forum member using Pennzoil Platinum on a 8150 mile run with the TBN flagged at 1.7. Not quite good enough.

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That's my point. A Grp. III based oil "simply works" for 7500-8000 mile oil changes. Since that's about when UOA's (including mine) have indicated those oils should be changed.

At $20-30 per oil change including filter for a DIY'er, the monetary outlay isn't a whole lot for something that most folks do 2-3 times per year. For folks who drive a lot more than 24k miles a year, yeah, downtime is pricier than the cost of oil that can go for longer than 7500 miles. The value is there in that case. For me at this moment, my driving style, schedule, and annual mileage, I spend 30 minutes every 4 months or so changing oil. Not a big deal to me right now. Now when my schedule changes to have less time to do things like change oil, yes, a longer oil change interval will be desirable.

Long story short: The value proposition for extended drains works for some folks, and isn't worth it for others.
 

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So, exactly what is so back about the oil the dealers use? I am an Amsoil fan and use it and have used it in every other vehicle I've had. Ive even converted my racing buddies drag cars *doubt they will warranty a bottle fed 632cid Chevy* I have the 2yr service agreement so my plan has been using my free oil changes lol.
 

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So, exactly what is so back about the oil the dealers use? I am an Amsoil fan and use it and have used it in every other vehicle I've had. Ive even converted my racing buddies drag cars *doubt they will warranty a bottle fed 632cid Chevy* I have the 2yr service agreement so my plan has been using my free oil changes lol.
Semi Syn is good for the normal OCI where as full syn can get you a longer change interval (0% OLM readings).
 

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Dealer oil it is then... don't get me wrong I like this little car but I'm gonna trade it off once warranty is gone. Plus it doesn't have a $3500 engine that I built so I think for my use dealer changes will be fine.

Maybe I won't get struck by lightning for saying this but there's a chance it may get traded for a 2015 Mustang with the new 2.3 t/c coming out. Having owned a '88 Thunderchickin with the 2.3 t/c I am fond of that setup. That car was a blast to drive.
 

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That's my point. A Grp. III based oil "simply works" for 7500-8000 mile oil changes. Since that's about when UOA's (including mine) have indicated those oils should be changed.

At $20-30 per oil change including filter for a DIY'er, the monetary outlay isn't a whole lot for something that most folks do 2-3 times per year. For folks who drive a lot more than 24k miles a year, yeah, downtime is pricier than the cost of oil that can go for longer than 7500 miles. The value is there in that case. For me at this moment, my driving style, schedule, and annual mileage, I spend 30 minutes every 4 months or so changing oil. Not a big deal to me right now. Now when my schedule changes to have less time to do things like change oil, yes, a longer oil change interval will be desirable.

Long story short: The value proposition for extended drains works for some folks, and isn't worth it for others.
You need to be aware of changes in oil formulation, for better or worse. If the oil you are using now has changed in formula, your old UOAs fly out the window. Volatility affects more than just your volume of oil.

I feel that you took my response as a loaded sales pitch for AMSOIL. That was not the intention at all, nor was I even thinking about extended drains. Allow me to clarify myself. If you were using QSUD before and you were able to get your respective oil drain intervals, and now they increased NOACK volatility from 8.8% to 12.3% (which is insane), the value of QSUD has now dropped. For $20-$30, there are now better options for you. Those options include any of the Tier 2 and Tier 3 oils, all of which are suitable for those same drain intervals.

As I have noted on this forum previously, my intention is to provide people with the information to make the best purchasing decisions possible. Previously, that included recommending Pennzoil Ultra, but I can no longer do so due to the increase in volatility. The availability of options in the primarily group 3 (I understand that some are group 3 blends with SOME PAO or SOME Ester) based oils is such that there is no cost to convenience in switching what you have been using to get the best value for your car, time or monetary.

So, exactly what is so back about the oil the dealers use? I am an Amsoil fan and use it and have used it in every other vehicle I've had. Ive even converted my racing buddies drag cars *doubt they will warranty a bottle fed 632cid Chevy* I have the 2yr service agreement so my plan has been using my free oil changes lol.
The dealer uses a synthetic blend oil that I would personally not recommend beyond a 5,000 mile OCI. 6,500 miles under light driving is as good as I've seen as an acceptable UOA. It contains decent levels of Molybdenum and Boron. If it wasn't for the stupid high volatility, I would be recommending it as the additive package is fairly decent.

Semi Syn is good for the normal OCI where as full syn can get you a longer change interval (0% OLM readings).
For the record, I do not trust the semi syn to go the full length of the oil life monitor. That is a 6500 mile oil tops in the 1.4T, no matter what conditions you are driving under. I have yet to see a UOA that indicates otherwise. A full syn will only get you down to a 0% OLM reading in 2013+ vehicles. 2011 and 2012 had a different OLM calibration that would actually take you to 10k miles under normal driving conditions, which I wouldn't trust every full synthetic oil to do.
 

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Once new evidence rolls in that I'm incorrect, I'll change my tune. Based on current evidence, an off-the-shelf Grp III oil in this car, even with a 10-12% volatility, can go 7500 miles before needing to be changed.

Best evidence I found so far was that QSUD's volatility was 10-12%. That's still below GF-5, API SN, and dexos1's specifications. It feels like we're arguing over differences measured with calipers, and who's doing the absolute best when good enough really is good enough.

Lest we lose sight of the big picture, we're all regularly changing our oil ahead of schedule with fairly decent oils. That's still way better than the typical car owner who waits until the light goes on to get the oil changed with the bulk slop available at Jiffy Lube. Or the millions of other 1.4T Cruze owners out there who aren't on CT doing the exact same thing.

And, living in the Northeast, my Cruze is likely to succumb to rust long before the engine will wear out.
 
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Once new evidence rolls in that I'm incorrect, I'll change my tune. Based on current evidence, an off-the-shelf Grp III oil in this car, even with a 10-12% volatility, can go 7500 miles before needing to be changed.

Best evidence I found so far was that QSUD's volatility was 10-12%. That's still below GF-5, API SN, and dexos1's specifications. It feels like we're arguing over differences measured with calipers, and who's doing the absolute best when good enough really is good enough.

Lest we lose sight of the big picture, we're all regularly changing our oil ahead of schedule with fairly decent oils. That's still way better than the typical car owner who waits until the light goes on to get the oil changed with the bulk slop available at Jiffy Lube. Or the millions of other 1.4T Cruze owners out there who aren't on CT doing the exact same thing.

And, living in the Northeast, my Cruze is likely to succumb to rust long before the engine will wear out.
The volatility of 12.3% came directly from Shell's own tech document. No debate there on what it actually is. It was posted earlier in this thread IIRC.

The difference is certainly not minor. Going from 8.8% to 12.3% is not something you can write off as insignificant.

7500 miles is the absolute maximum of what a recent member should have gone on his Pennzoil Platinum. He went 8150 and had a TBN of 1.7. When your TBN drops to 1/3 of original, you should flag it as getting low. When it drops to 1/4, you had better change it. The original TBN in that was 9.0. Do the math. That oil was shot. 100k miles of those conditions with those oils and those drain intervals would have resulted in accelerated bearing corrosion.

I'm not really concerned with what other owners do. Other owners think cars become unreliable after 100k miles, and GM's liability is dissolved at that point anyway.

Two things cause my stress of high TBN and low volatility oils.

1. Piston cooling jets that heat oil.
2. Small, sleeve bearing turbo that works at high loads under normal driving conditions.

That's why volatility and TBN are a big deal. I'm not going to start fear mongering people without factual evidence, but I'm not looking forward to replacing a $700 turbo at any point during my ownership of this car and the $10 extra I spend every oil change will ensure that I can put off that repair as long as possible if not permanently.

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So I guess I'm a little confused. All three grades of Amsoil (OE, XL, SS) do show as GM dexos1 on their product pages... I guess for some reason I thought they weren't?
 

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So I guess I'm a little confused. All three grades of Amsoil (OE, XL, SS) do show as GM dexos1 on their product pages... I guess for some reason I thought they weren't?
They are listed as meeting and exceeding the requirements for dexos1, but they did not actually participate in the certification. That is, they don't pay the royalties per gallon or the cost to certify.

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For the record, I do not trust the semi syn to go the full length of the oil life monitor. That is a 6500 mile oil tops in the 1.4T, no matter what conditions you are driving under. I have yet to see a UOA that indicates otherwise. A full syn will only get you down to a 0% OLM reading in 2013+ vehicles. 2011 and 2012 had a different OLM calibration that would actually take you to 10k miles under normal driving conditions, which I wouldn't trust every full synthetic oil to do.
Yeah I was saying 0% on full syn but on a 13 and beyond. I barely trust semisynthetic to 6k the way I drive. If I autocrossed or dragged the car for 2 days the oil got changed.



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ok my car is gone and i want to get oil for a change the second change but i need to find out what weight 0w0 0w05 0w10 5w5 5w15 ? i know dexos but forgot the weight. thanks
 

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Ok, GM calls for a Dexos1 oil and there are semi synthetic oils that meet this spec. My understanding is that the car's oil change countdown thing, will typically tell a person to change after about 7500 miles, which is more or less what US auto makers have been telling drivers as a change interval for many many years.

As near as I know, there are VERY VERY few engine failures that can be directly attributed poor lubrication, when the owner changes their oil based on the manufactures recommendations. That is, if you use oil that meets the specs of the auto maker, and you change your oil at least every 7500 miles, then you have virtually no chance of having a oil related failure.

My dad always told me to change my oil every 5000 miles, because it's easy to remember when you need to do it, you just look at your odometer, when it hits some multiple of 5000, it's time for a oil change. I still tend to think this way... but I also have come to believe that the Cruze's built in oil monitor thing, is a reliable method.

You won't see me buying $8+ per quart oil. I just bought three packages ( 6 quarts each package ) of Mobile1 from Costco for $25.50 per package , or $4.25/quart. They have a limit of 3 instant rebates per customer, so that's why I bought three.

Fear mongering, or whatever... This isn't a rocketship, it's not even a aeroplane. it's a car. Change your oil regularly, and chances are very very good, that you will not have any problems with your engine due to lubrication, even with the cheapest of manufacture approved oils. This isn't rocket science people.
 

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Ok, GM calls for a Dexos1 oil and there are semi synthetic oils that meet this spec. My understanding is that the car's oil change countdown thing, will typically tell a person to change after about 7500 miles, which is more or less what US auto makers have been telling drivers as a change interval for many many years.

As near as I know, there are VERY VERY few engine failures that can be directly attributed poor lubrication, when the owner changes their oil based on the manufactures recommendations. That is, if you use oil that meets the specs of the auto maker, and you change your oil at least every 7500 miles, then you have virtually no chance of having a oil related failure.

My dad always told me to change my oil every 5000 miles, because it's easy to remember when you need to do it, you just look at your odometer, when it hits some multiple of 5000, it's time for a oil change. I still tend to think this way... but I also have come to believe that the Cruze's built in oil monitor thing, is a reliable method.

You won't see me buying $8+ per quart oil. I just bought three packages ( 6 quarts each package ) of Mobile1 from Costco for $25.50 per package , or $4.25/quart. They have a limit of 3 instant rebates per customer, so that's why I bought three.

Fear mongering, or whatever... This isn't a rocketship, it's not even a aeroplane. it's a car. Change your oil regularly, and chances are very very good, that you will not have any problems with your engine due to lubrication, even with the cheapest of manufacture approved oils. This isn't rocket science people.
7500 miles is beyond what the OE oil is capable of. As for other types of oils, well, we can have that discussion if you'd like. Oil does more than just lubricate.

Also, it's a turbo car. With high dynamic compression and piston cooling jets that raise oil to unusually high temperatures. And high shear loads. Oil analysis has shown the engine is particularly hard on oil.

GM also thought their oil life monitor was reliable in 2011 and 2012. Why is it then that they re-calibrated it to have people change oil 2000-3000 miles sooner in the 2013+ models?

There are very few *catastrophic* engine failures due to engine oil. However, given the right amount of shearing, oxidation, and acidity, you could lose a turbo as often as...well...Mazda3 and Subaru WRX guys do.

GM calls it semi-synthetic when in reality it's a group 2/3 petroleum blend. There is no true synthetic base stock in it. Will probably do fine in 5k mile intervals for most people. I'd rather change mine at 15k though.
 

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Agreed. GM Synth-Blend Dexos1 is garbage... I'm only running it because it's free for my first 4. Do not take this stuff down to 0% on the OLM, or much past 5k mi.

Pennzoil Platinum/Mobil1/Quaker State Ultimate Durability you'll find at Wally World for $25/5qt is a step up for 7.5k mi or reaching 0% on the OLM. While other turbo cars like WRXs tear up Mobil1, it seems to do okay in this motor for some reason.

I've never used Amsoil Signature, but from my research is indeed good stuff. Worth it if you do want to extend your intervals in tandem with UOA reports.

Here are a few UOA to get started with - http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-1-4l-turbo/79866-1-4t-used-oil-analysis-thread.html
 

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Agreed. GM Synth-Blend Dexos1 is garbage... I'm only running it because it's free for my first 4. Do not take this stuff down to 0% on the OLM, or much past 5k mi.

Pennzoil Platinum/Mobil1/Quaker State Ultimate Durability you'll find at Wally World for $25/5qt is a step up for 7.5k mi or reaching 0% on the OLM. While other turbo cars like WRXs tear up Mobil1, it seems to do okay in this motor for some reason.

I've never used Amsoil Signature, but from my research is indeed good stuff. Worth it if you do want to extend your intervals in tandem with UOA reports.

Here are a few UOA to get started with - http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-1-4l-turbo/79866-1-4t-used-oil-analysis-thread.html
Just remember that there's more to true synthetics (not Mobil 1/Pennzoil/QSUD) than just drain intervals. Oil does a lot more than just lubricate. Big Oil would love for people to believe there's no difference since they switched over, but there is, and you can't put a price on quality.
 

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Just remember that there's more to true synthetics (not Mobil 1/Pennzoil/QSUD) than just drain intervals. Oil does a lot more than just lubricate. Big Oil would love for people to believe there's no difference since they switched over, but there is, and you can't put a price on quality.
Could you point me in the direction of some reading about this? I'm not opposed to a higher quality oil than Mobil or Pennzoil, just don't know what the further benefits are. Whether or not I keep the car past 100k, I'd like to treat it as if I will.

Funny... driving in this morning I was honestly just thinking, man this Synchromesh MTF is the bomb. :)
 
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