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Big Zeus Build Thread

28918 Views 252 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  Dave's World
10
Ok, after a long period of contemplation, I have decided to go ahead and make a thread documenting my 2013 Cruze LT 1.4L. I will name it a build thread, but don't really consider it that. This is just something that I work on and improve as time and funds allow. I like to tinker and find different ways to do things as well as maximize performance. I do all the work in my enclosed garage and have a decent amount of tools. Most if not all of the modifications will be bolt on.

Maintenance/work list:

Window tint 12/1/2018 54k
New tires 55000 discount tire
Paint correction and wax 55k
Dorman thermostat 4/25/2019 55k
Transmission fluid drain and fill valvoline 55k 5/10/19
Front rotor resurface 55k 5/10/19
BNR tune purchased and installed
New plug boots rock auto standard brand 55k 5/17/19
New battery (larger size) and negative cable OEM and mechanical boost gauge 55k 5/23/19
Transmission fluid drain and fill AC Delco
56k 6/28/19
Oil change and filter 56,048 7/12/19 super tech synthetic
ZZP downpipe 7/15/19
Installed black vinyl over emblems
New ac delco ceramic brake shoes front 56,300 8/23/19
New driver window motor and tint 9/4/19
New belt tensioner and belt ac Delco 11/24/19 | 56,500
digital boost gauge 12/14/19 56,600
Fixed turbo outlet line coolant leak and installed new water pump. New antifreeze 56,700 1/9/20

Changed oil penzoil ultra platinum 5w30
57,322 3/22/20

Compression right to left
180,200,195,205 Psi

5/5/20 57,541 new oil gm, oil pan reseal, ac Delco turbo oil line 89in lb, 22 ft lb, down pipe reinstalled
Brembo brake rotors 6/15/20

Bnr wastegate actuator 6/20/20
AC Delco spark plugs default gap 8/17/20
Ac Delco water outlet new prestone dexcool antifreeze 8/28/20 57,922

Dorman intake manifold 9/20/20

New purge valve OEM, BNR throttle body spacer, boost leak test passed 9/30/20 58008
New MAF Ac Delco 10/21/20 58106
New FCS front struts 58,500 1/18/21
New FCS rear shocks 58,600 2/23/21

Oil change pennzoil plat ultra, BNR LS7 coils 58669 4/12/21

New GM water pump and gasket
58,700 4/28/21

BNR Intake manifold spacer, new driver CV Axle, Cardone reman.
59,000 11/6/21

Rotated tires
59,111 11/20/21

ZZP V3 Turbo, used 1500 miles
59,300 04/02/22

Oil change Pennzoil Platinum
59,360 04/03/22

ZZP Ported intake manifold, PCV 3.4 fix kit
59,450 04/22/22




And the story begins:


When she was pretty new, she was full of swirl marks and scratches. This is after a professional paint correction that I did myself with the pictured Meguiars and harbor freight DA. Tons of work and it took days. I went panel by panel.
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Next, got some new shoes (Continental Control Contact) These things are great, so much softer than the old Michelins
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Shortly after, it was time to start fixing leaks. This was the first one, I fabbed up a piece of rubber tubing and put a heat shield on it. It has lasted almost 2 years now with no leaks.
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Had a transmission fluid leak that was likely from an overfill, did a drain and fill X3 with AC Delco fluid.
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Next was a rich condition, which I finally narrowed down to the cooler NGK plugs I installed, Don't go with the 8's... unless you like unburnt fuel
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Next up is oil leak time, the oil cooler and pan were leaking. The dealer fixed the pan and for some reason painted it all with silver spray paint... I did the oil cooler a month or two on my own after. More to come in next post
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continued below...
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Is this the front or rear O2?

@Snipesy , it's not a diesel, but perhaps you have some thoughts?
Front I believe.
I wonder if the exhaust is leaking somewhere... that would explain all of this. Also explains why it gets wacky once it gets hotter. The leak would have to I guess be before the o2 sensor, so maybe vband?
Sounds like a theory.
I remember hearing what sounded like a hiss under WOT, I took the downpipe loose and the vband and it didn't seem aligned very well. I tightened it vband first, then the bracket nut. Storming now, will test later or tomorrow.
ECM request evap purge. Evap purge doesn't happen. ECM gets confused.

O2 sensor looks fine to me and working as intended.
Purge valve was recently replaced, think it is bad?
A failing purge valve tends to let fuel in when it shouldn't. This is the opposite of that.
Soooo.
  • The canister is all plugged up. Mayyyybe it will fix itself. Maybe not.
  • The canister vent solenoid is not working. You know how a shop vac allows you to suck or blow? Well block that part that sucks (the normal end). The part that blows no longer blows. Same idea here with the vent solenoid.
  • Some massive ass leak (need smoke test).

The best way forward is to probably record the status of the evap purge while this is happening. Orrr just assume its the problem and do a smoke test.
Interesting thanks for the detailed reply! So I am not totally sure how I would run a smoke test to see results on this. And to confirm, the vent solenoid is the part on top of the intake manifold that when it goes out makes the ticking sound?

As far as leak goes, that would show on boost leak test or no?

I am now wondering if this is the root cause of my rough idles too since I have owned the car.

Lastly, the ECM is expecting fuel/vapors to come from the evap system, they don't, so it has to take out lftf to compensate?
So it's no real issue?
Still gonna bother me constantly lol
A failing purge valve tends to let fuel in when it shouldn't. This is the opposite of that.
Soooo.
  • The canister is all plugged up. Mayyyybe it will fix itself. Maybe not.
  • The canister vent solenoid is not working. You know how a shop vac allows you to suck or blow? Well block that part that sucks (the normal end). The part that blows no longer blows. Same idea here with the vent solenoid.
  • Some massive ass leak (need smoke test).

The best way forward is to probably record the status of the evap purge while this is happening. Orrr just assume its the problem and do a smoke test.
Could this be tested by unplugging the line from the one side of the solenoid on the manifold and then driving around? I don't see why not. This would confirm if it's the canister, yes?
I can't believe it, but I re positioned the vband on the downpipe and drove around with the evap line unplugged from the purge valve, and everything is normal. So it was one of the two. Will plug it back in and drive around later to see if it returns. If not it was the exhaust leaking.

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Are you sure that the evap purge solenoid actually opened during your data logging session? If my memory serves me correctly unplugging the EVAP line that connects to the EVAP purge solenoid would create a vacuum leak when the valve opens under intake manifold vacuum.

My thinking could be wrong though. I've only had 1 cup of coffee.
No, it just sucks in when that valve opens, this time it took in clean air versus an unassumingly plugged up evap line.
Either way, going to let it cool and make sure it isn't going to rain, it got cloudy out on my drive... Can't get it dirty lol 🤭
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That's a vacuum leak. Isn't it?

Although it may not throw off the fuel trims.
Why would it care if it sucks from the charcoal canister or the ambient air? The "leak" you are saying is controlled by the purge valve opening and closing.
@Snipesy 's theory has been proven, hooked back up and they are in the high negative 20's again. So leaves me to either: 1. replace the charcoal canister assembly (read in another thread here it's a 20 minute job and you only have to drop the trank 6 inches) not sure it's really that easy, can't find any vids or tutorials, 2. vent that line elsewhere not in the engine compartment, or 3. leave it alone.

*adds it to the list of numerous things I've fixed on this car and it's under 60k miles lol

Anyone know if alldata or haynes would have this procedure?
I like number 3. This is a very first world problem that isn’t going to harm the engine in any way.
Interesting, I like your take! So the rough idle and misses arent at all attributed to this?
As long as the purge valve is working properly it should never lead to a rough idle. You may get some odd behavior but it’s only during the purge. And as you have seen, the ECM is pretty good at accounting for it even if it means maxing out the trims.

Your rough idle sounds much more like a PCV issue.
It's existed with a fix kit manifold as well as a dorman replacement. Thanks again for all the info on this!
But didn't you say you had issues with the fix kit and how it was installed?
Yeah, IMO it was a piece of junk lol... Sorry to say it. Leaked from day 1. IF, and IF I were to get another one, I would get the new one where you don't have to bore a hole in your plastic manifold that is hard to seal.
That's why I don't have one.
Do you just plan to replace the intake manifold every once in a while or just monitor?
I'll just monitor it closely. I may end up replacing the manifold every so often or I've contemplated a RacerX (metal) manifold with a check valve that I select. I just don't like the idea of making modifications to a plastic manifold.
Something we both agree on ;)
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Still trying to chase this slight miss at cold start idle. I can feel it in the seat as well as if I put my hand on the valve cover. You can hear it if you listen very closely in the exhaust note as well. I am assuming a vacuum leak as I've switched plugs 3 times, gapped them to all sorts of gaps, and threw in another set of fuel injectors and orings. I have no clue what else to check. Seems to run ok, but does surge some under boost, may be normal idk. As usually passes boost test very well. Trying to figure out if this is just normal when it starts up to light off the cat so it's dumping raw fuel in at a high rate.

Vacuum at idle once it idles down from "high idle" after cold start. Settles around 800RPM with -17 vacuum. Does this sound right?
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-17 in/hg? That sounds about right to me.
Yeah me too, it goes -21 or so when driving and coasting.
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