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Blasirl’s Build:

47801 Views 182 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  Blasirl
I've been toying with this post since day one and would have probably never posted it, but someone I know was harassing me, so here is the text beginning. Pictures will follow - sometime. My main impediment is every time I complete something, something else goes south or I change my mind and replace something. You would also think being an electrician the electrical projects I have pending would be top notch and done, but nooooo, I don't want to start em even - so someday...

2014 Chevrolet Cruze Fleet LT 1.4l AT
My fleet 1LT included the 1.4-liter turbocharged gasoline engine, 16-inch alloy wheels, OnStar, keyless entry, a tilt-and-telescoping steering wheel with audio controls, cruise control, a leather-wrapped steering wheel. air-conditioning, a six-way (manual) adjustable driver seat, a 60/40-split-folding rear seat, a trip computer, full power accessories, Bluetooth phone connectivity and a six-speaker sound system with a CD/MP3 player, satellite radio, USB port and an auxiliary audio jack.

It also came standard with stability control, antilock brakes, full-length side curtain airbags, front knee airbags and front and rear side-impact airbags as standard. A front-disc/rear-drum brake setup is standard on all models (except the 2LT, LTZ and Diesel, which are upgraded to four-wheel disc brakes). Also standard is OnStar, which includes automatic crash notification, on-demand roadside assistance, remote door unlocking and stolen-vehicle assistance.

Current Modifications:

Huskie Floor Liners throughout
Wing Spoiler (body color)
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Chevrolet Chevrolet cruze

Spring assisted trunk openers
Vehicle Car Auto part

Split Leather shift knob cover (red stitching)
Gear shift Vehicle Car Center console Auto part

MGP "Cruze" caliper covers (red) -------I have a set of unused rear covers FS or Trade - long story (still for sale as of 02MAR20)
Land vehicle Alloy wheel Vehicle Car Tire

Cruze Pedal Covers (red)
(where's the pic??)
Snowshield & Mirror Mitts
Door Lock knobs & Bezels (red)
Vehicle door Technology Table Auto part Windshield

Sunglasses holder (gray) (How to install)

Cover Craft Sun Shield {Thanks to spacedout} EDIT: Upgraded to Rose color to match - Blue shade FS or trade. (still for sale as of 18SEP20)
Diode Dynamics XP50 Reverse Lights

Reverse Camera
Vehicle Hood Automotive exterior Car Bumper

Open anytime interior trunk release button
Trunk mounted volt meter, power and USB outlets
Electronic instrument Electronics Auto part Technology Bumper

Trunk side rear seat covers
Rear Fog light (laser) - [see Reverse Camera photo]
Dual Fog light switch (still need to know how to get second switch to work)
Vehicle Car Family car

Glass look rear window quarters UPDATE: Removed and replaced with black appliques - [See window tint photos]
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Mid-size car Vehicle door

Plasti-dipped rear chrome bar (red) (now it is painted 2020)
Shark Fin antenna cover (body color) (Had to repaint it once)
Diode Dynamics side marker lamps (amber)
Fog/Driving lights i.e. Flip Flop amber/white lamps - [See lip spoiler photo]
Leatherette parking brake covers (red stitching)
Couture RS look front lip spoiler (body color) [this was rudely ripped off of my car at 70 mph on the Toledo Turnpike by a retread. Funny, I was on my way to court to fight a ticket procured during the Lordstown meet] EDIT: Added Lip Spoiler back! 19OCT17 @ 60280
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Grille Hood

Z-Spec grille (Black Granite) {Thanks to Cully77} - [See lip spoiler photo above]
Splash Guards (fourth set now 2020)
Tire Automotive tire Bumper Vehicle Automotive exterior

Centrex High Carbon rotors
LS window seals (black) {Thanks to Scott at Lordstown} (black appliques finally installed July17) -[See window tint photos]
K&N Air Filter {thanks to Merc6}
16” LT rims with Blizzaks for winter with matching black & red wheel storage covers
A couple of 5hp stickers
In-dash USB charging port

Ultra Racing upper rear shock tower bar
Grenade valve caps (red) {since changed to chrome valve caps with a red R for Robert - the power wash ripped out one and stranded me at the carwash} May 2018
18” LTZ rims {Thanks to whitecruze} with Continental Pure Contacts (1 size wider) (waiting on TPMS) UPDATE: Chinese TPMS took an immediate dump, replaced with Sam’s Club items (replaced one of these ~JUL20)
Land vehicle Alloy wheel Vehicle Car Wheel

Window tint by New Wave (35% I think)- 29JUL17 (redid the windshield tint after windshield replacement)
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Mid-size car Chevrolet cruze
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Chevrolet cruze Full-size car
Sky Blue Daytime Architecture Cloud

This last photo is the difference between winshield and strip tint.​

Eibach springs {Thanks to Overbuilt} - 23AUG17

Bilstein B8 Sport Struts - 23AUG17
Moog front sway bar links & bushings - 23AUG17

Ultra Racing upper front shock tower bar - 23AUG17
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Engine Auto part

GM strut mounts and bellows - 23AUG17
Front End Alignment - 25AUG17 (Sep 20)

MISC items:
Will not let me upload any more pictures!

Pending Modifications:

Rear View mirror with video screen (issues with wiring)(installed May 18, but not completely connected)
Electronics Technology Electronic device

Smoked BMW style tails (need to decipher wiring)(tried to install May18, but ran into issues)(tried twice in Jun18)
Automotive lighting Light Headlamp Auto part Automotive exterior
Electronics Auto part Technology Electronic component Games

Add MyLink {Thanks to justsowicked} (Need to redo VIN first somehow)
Wndow vents (smoked) – (too lazy to put them on yet) (Done)
Whiteline 22mm Rear sway bar Edit: Completed at 65,000 19MAR18
Autometer Cobalt Boost and AFR gauges installed but not yet connected May18 EDIT: Connected Boost electrically 16JUL18 EDIT: Completed install 28AUG18
LTZ Cluster upgrade OCT2018

Planned Modifications:

EBC Greenstuff brake pads
Color match steering wheel trim (changed the Wheel to a Camaro Hot Wheels steering wheel)
Upgrade sound system (while keeping stock head unit) ala XR’s post

Completed Repairs:
Replaced negative battery cable (Warranty)
New Duralast brake pads and Centrex rotors
Repaired PF fender (repainted peeling paint & replaced fender liner 18SEP20)
Repaired DF rocker panel 19OCT17 @ 60280
Repaired front end 23MAY18
New camshaft seals 17AUG18 (Warranty)
New valve cover and gasket 17AUG18 (Warranty)
New water pump and a free coolant refill. 17AUG18 (Warranty)
Engine degreased 17AUG18 (Warranty)
Replaced (currently being shipped)one snow tire (Warranty) 03DEC18 73,XXX - EDIT: Installed 10DEC18 EDIT: Replaced all four snows 2021)
Slow coolant leak / Check Engine / Security System / battery 03DEC2018 73,XXX
DF rocker panel repaired again along with tire rash from when the H2 tried to eat me.
Changed the oil & Filter - 95912 - no analysis, Oil Analyzers must have shipped the two kits I ordered to China before they would come to me. 18DEC20
Installed a ZZP magnetic drain plug - 95912 -18DEC2020
Replaced the Surge Tank hose for the second time & topped off the coolant - 95912 - 18DEC2020
Replaced both intake and exhaust camshaft position sensors with Duralast part SU14096 and also purchased a crank position sensor SU13894 28APR21

Completed Modifications:
ZZP Pillar Pod {thanks to LS2 BLAZER}(May18)
Depo smoked side markers {this guy is the cheapest, but his Customer Service Sucks]Installed 23MAY18) Updated Link 20APR19
Bilstein B8 shocks - [Tire Rack shipped me the wrong ones - waiting on reply 26AUG17] EDIT: Installed at 65,000 19MAR18
Amsoil Oil (Wix filters) {Thanks to XtremeRevolution}Edit: Completed at 65,000 19MAR18 EDIT: More oil waiting in the wings 2021
Amsoil Brake Fluid (time) {Thanks to XtremeRevolution}Edit: Completed at 65,000 19MAR18
Amsoil Trans Fluid (time) {Thanks to XtremeRevolution}Edit: Completed at 65,000 19MAR18
Big Three Kit (2 grounds installed so far - time) {Thanks to XtremeRevolution}Edit: Finally completed the third cable on 11MAR18
Completed HomeLink, but not yet installed 07JUL18 see pics below EDIT: Installed 17JUL18
Diode Dynamics HP24 Switchback front signal LEDs installed 19JUL18
Installed a Verano engine shield SEP18
EDIT: Moog strut mounts and bellows - (same) [DST shipped the wrong parts - substituted GM parts]Soon to install a Scangauge II {Thanks to PanJet} EDIT: Installed
06JUN18 - EDIT: 26NOV2018 - gauge went blank - unsure of problem as of yet. Gauge went back on 10DEC18
Periodic oil changes
Re Vinylized the back bowtie 09AUG18
Purchased and installed power heated leather seats. - acquired them all piecemeal by 06APR19
How I swapped in power seats
How I Swapped in Power Seats part 2
How I removed and replaced my Rear Seats
How I removed and replaced my Rear Seats pt 2
Hot Wheels Camaro steering wheel w/paddle shifters - I had to rehab it first before I installed it.
Carbon Fiber shifter/stereo surround - 2020
Dual exhaust with U-Power tips - 2020
Glove Box Light Ready to install. Waiting on connector from Mouser and Diode Dynamics LED. EDIT: Installed 18JUL18, but having electrical issues (fixed)

Additional mods listed here

Pending Issues/Repairs/Modifications:
Amsoil Coolant & Coolant Boost (As I have a fresh coolant change via the warranty this will be waiting) {Thanks to XtremeRevolution}
Troubleshoot the rearview mirror connections
Troubleshoot the glove box light (done) - 2020
Figure out the connections for the taillights I bought 5 years ago and install them
Waiting on my Amsoil shipment (18SEP20)(Received)
Forge Wastegate Actuator
Forge BPV
BNR LS7 coil upgrade
Racer X manifold
60lb fuel injectors

The day I brought her home in November of 2014:

I still cannot find these pics...

For Sale / Trade items:

Eibach camber bolts - [so far not needed] - FS or Trade - (still for sale as of 18SEP20) EDIT: Ended up installing these 2021
Complete set all black LT seats
Blue Covercraft sunshade
Full set of LS window seals and appliques )(all black)
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21 - 40 of 183 Posts
HomeLink Project

1. So I finally was able to complete my HomeLink Project
Electronics Technology Electronic device

2. This is the backside assembled.

Electronics Technology Electronic device Electronic component

3. This is the cutout. I learned that I could have cut even less out right at the last step when I clipped on the keypad.

4. This is the unit set in the cutout.

Electronics Product Technology Electronic device

5. And this is where I found I could have cut out less material.

Scale model

If you look close, you can see where the black tabs are not in contact with the area cutout for them. They did sit there up until I found the keypad would not clip on. There was just a bit too much space between the keypad and the unit. In picture four, you can see where I cut out around the tabs in line with the keys. Originally this was not the case and it set in there very nicely albeit too far from the cover. With them cut out, the cover snapped in nicely, but the back end lifted a bit. Oh well, live and learn. It seem to work well now. Hopefully in the next couple of days I can program the unit and actually install it.

EDIT: Installed 27JUL18 How to Program
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How I installed a Verano engine shield

I finally installed the Verano shield I ordered a few months ago. I first had to figure out how to get my 4 ton jack under the car. I made a mini ramp to get it up higher.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Alloy wheel Rim

I then set about stenciling the new shield so hopefully it remains intact.

Vehicle Auto part Family car City car Car

These are the closeups of the two labels

Technology Electronic device Label

As you can see, I had a bit of a leak on the passenger side so I waited to install until after they were addressed.

Firearm Gun Trigger Airsoft gun

Before I installed the new one, I compared the two for differences.

Auto part

I used a hole saw and a razor knife to add the new holes. After installing it, I found the two holes used to connect the shield to the wheel well shroud on both sides were off. I used a wood bit to make some new ones in the shield.

Auto part Bumper Fender Floor

I had to use the drill upside down to get it in there.

Impact wrench Impact driver Hammer drill Handheld power drill Drill

The only other items I had to deal with to install the shield was the two missing body nuts and an extra-large hole in the shield. The extra-large hole was easy, I just added a stainless fender washer to the original screw. It took me awhile to figure out a temporary solution for the two missing body nuts. I ended up using two Harbor Freight panel nuts and the matching screws. I expect they may last over winter. U-Clip and Screw Assortment, 170 Pc.

Auto part
Ceiling Vehicle
Tire Automotive tire Auto part Automotive wheel system Tread

Actually there one more item I chose to do and that was to create an opening around the oil drain plug.
I used a 3” hole saw and a scrap of plywood to make a jig and the drilled out the plastic / aluminum sandwich.

Wood Tool accessory Machine Tool
Tool accessory Impact wrench Random orbital sander Tool
Auto part Machine tool Machine Metal

Hopefully that will keep sloppy oil changes from lighting my fire.

Happy Modding!

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I’ll have to get a closer look at this in the upcoming off season so I can get mine on. I sourced mine along with the panels that go under the floor boards from a Verano at a local wrecking yard.

By by the way, I like the idea of the cutout for the drain plug.
The two side ones and the rear one? I never thought to look at Veranos for those. I had always thought they were only on the ECO's . If you have the actual body nuts or just the HF clips, a drill and the bits this is a quick job. I am not sure what you mean by off season, but this is an hour job at most.

I had looked at all of the posts I could find on the shield and the only person I remember mentioning adding holes was @spacedout, but he never was specific. I know I eventually will drill some more once I figure out where the drips accumulate, but I knew for sure the drain plug area was going to be one of them. I didn't mention it, but you need to pull back on the shield while you are spinning the drill. I would go fairly slow and really pay attention where your fingers are. Also remember you are going through the aluminum too.
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Correct I have the two side ones on. The front and rear stud was there for each side to line them up with. I drilled new holes around the edges to line up with existing hole in the chassis and used push pins to hold them up.

Couldn’t figure out the rear one as it seems to be missing a bracket or something in order to install it but I have it as well. My catback also doesn’t help as it sits below the bumper rather than sit in the cutout, I would more than likely have to clearance the rear piece in order to make it fit

We have a “busy” season at work that is about to end which will give me another day off each week to work on things. Given the hours I work there is no getting anything done until a day that I have off, not enough time before to finish what was started and too tired to do anything afterwards on the days that I work.

This is will be in addition to the collection of parts that have been slowly coming in to be completed this winter for regular maintenance in my book. Come spring my Cruze should be a little bit closer to where I want it to be.
This must be my down season as I have went through a ton of boxes piling up in the basement (mostly parts for the Cruze) and installed a bunch of things.

good job on the shield. I installed mine a few months hangs down a bit in the middle....didn't see where I could bolt it to or anything. Is yours tucked up nice or does it hang a lil too?
Thanks. Mine bulges a bit too, but it is stiff because I used all the available mounting points.
Renewing the Plasti-dipped Chrome Bar

Renewed the Plasti-dip on the Chrome Trunk Bar yesterday. (EDIT: This is now painted body color)

1. Cleaned it with glass cleaner and then taped it off.

Automotive exterior Art Mural Vehicle

2. Added a light coat and then about a minute later completed it with a wet coat.

Automotive exterior Font Technology Textile Art

3. Removed masking while it was still wet.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Vehicle registration plate Red

All done - for now!

Land vehicle Car Trunk Vehicle Red
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same here..used all the available spots, just nowhere to bolt it up to where it kinda bulges
Automotive tire Tire Wheel Rim Bumper
Auto part Automotive exhaust Vehicle Exhaust system Car

I kind of think that is better as it is farther (further?) away from the exhaust except for the flap on the right of the rear of the opening. Less melted stuff.
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Trunk bar looks really good, it's really close to the OEM color.
Thanks, I really got lucky as that is the only red Plasti-dip color I found. Now if I could only find some touch-up that actually matches my car...
I added to my Cruze tool collection today:

Circle Gauge Auto part Wire
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I finally found the time to thoroughly clean and install the LTZ gauge cluster I bought from xbazzarex.

While it was in pretty good shape, it was extremely dirty. I disassembled the unit into its multiple pieces and started by using a clean parts brush to dislodge most of the dirt. Then I took it to the shower and sprayed it with hot water. Once I felt it was clean, I used my air compressor to blow it dry. I then cleaned the lens with glass cleaner. I considered using either olive oil or baby oil on the lense, but I was afraid it would sour inside the cluster. I may try it on the outside later.

This picture is the sequence of the parts.

Purple Product Violet Metal

At first, before I actually took the unit apart, I thought the chrome ring and the clear lense were the parts I need, but I discovered I was mistaken. The smoked piece on the left as well as the chrome ring were what I needed.

Gauge Auto part Speedometer Tachometer Rim

I found that most of the "How To" threads omit a bunch of details. One thing I discovered was the small clips holding the flap (not sure what it's called) that covers the steering column are easily undone using a small screwdriver or two.

Auto part Fashion accessory Vehicle Rim
Auto part Gun Trigger

I also realized that this is a job to do when you are not in a hurry, agitated or in need of the commode. All of the little clips are very fragile. This made me stop and really make sure that the clips are in the right place and ready to be re-engaged.

Purple Violet Fashion accessory Metal

Here is a before and after of the completed install.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Gauge Speedometer
Vehicle Car Gauge Speedometer Auto part

EDIT: Some related links:
How To Remove Instrument Panel(Cluster) For Cleaning
How-To: Upgraded Instrument Cluster
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Recently ordered new filters from Rock Auto and discovered something after changing my filter

I discovered that WIX makes a private label filter for CarQuest

Material property Magenta Label Carton Ink

Text Receipt Font Document
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Last week the DIC had the padlocked Cruze body and a P0171 code after the car had sat for a week while I was on vacation. For some reason the car would not release my key until I went through the process of turning it on and off while slightly turning the steering, hitting the brakes and trying the shifter occasionally. The battery had died as well (I had a flat too, but that doesn't affect the engine too much.) After jumping the car, all seemed normal except for the dash lites.

Car Vehicle Speedometer Gauge Auto part

Blurry padlocked Cruze symbol

I had also been having issues with the coolant leaking ever since the water pump had been replaced. So, driving around on a donut, breathing antifreeze with a christmas tree on the dash just didn't put me in much of a Christmas Spirit.

I dropped off the car with my favorite mechanic and just said fix it. I had to drive the Children's hospital to visit my daughter and just wanted to go. So, he changed the water outlet and added some coolant. He hard reset the electrical system as while it was in his possession, the interior of the windshield frosted (windows were closed) and the HVAC system decided not to work. and am monitoring the codes for now.


My good friends check Stabilitrack and power Steering are back. I have to see what the codes are later. 73100 miles 11DEC18
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The two CELs went away and things were good until three days ago. Another CEL. I did not have my reader setup and kept going. Parked for a day and when I restarted, CEL was gone. When I get a chance, probably in a few more days, I'll check for all of them to see what they are / were.

Two days ago I hit the big 75,000. so far so good. My wife took the Bomb for a ride, came back and told me the radio now works. I haven't yet really tested it to see if indeed I get more than 1 station, but will also do that on the way home tonight. Was kind of brain dead this morning.

Face Forehead Facial expression Eyebrow Head
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P0171 last week, this past Friday and now again today. They show up and go away.

A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled.
There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
Faulty or stuck open PCV valve Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor

Read more at:

I'm hoping it is just a dirty MAF.
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Boy, potholes are killing my car. I now have a metallic clunk on what seems to be the drivers side. Is is intermittant, but definite. I cannot see anything except some wire mess/screen coming off of the exhaust. I'm hoping to get some good weather so I can jack the car up and have a looky lou. I might get in trouble for this, but...

EDIT: I have discovered that the sway bar was the culprit. I added Whiteline sway bar end links for the cure.
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I am looking forward to changing the snows out for my pure contacts, a thorough cleaning and swapping in my Hot-wheels steering wheel soooon!

Cartoon Font Parallel
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I discovered an LKQ pick n pull yard not too far from my house and a few weeks ago made my first trip there. I was able to get a bunch of parts I wanted to be able to put my Cruze back to stock if I needed to. I picked up a key surround, a center top junk box, a spare steering wheel bolt, a drivers door wiring harness, a center console harness, two tail light harnesses, a couple of positive battery cables, a ton of fuses and relays and finally, ECO panels and all of the fasteners for all three panels all from an ECO - the two rims left on it were trashed so no go on those. I found about ten Cruzes and most were LTs.

I found a 2LT that had a leather interior and started to take it out. For the price I could not pass it up. I was able to get the passenger seat out, but I did not know how to disconnect the seat belt and not wanting to ruin anything. I left it. I also picked up some rims for my daughters Cobalt as well as a trunk lid liner and a spoiler.

Arm Personal protective equipment Strap Leg Hand

I went back eight days later expecting the leather seats to be gone, but they were still there. I had looked at how to remove the seat belts before I went back and did that right away. I did not however look well enough to see how the spring release on the rear seats worked. After about two hours of trying, I took out the sawzall and brute forced them out. The front seat was powered almost all the way back so I went out to my Cruze and pulled the battery and grabbed some wires. (I discovered the Blue Fungus was back - I must have a parasitic draw somewhere)

I tried everything to find a connection to power up the main harness. The front end was in terrible shape and I ended up not being able to power it up. I thought, "well, I made it this far, I'll strip the covers off, leave the frame and use mine." Well, that did not go as I thought it would either. I was able to remove the head rest cover only. The head rest would not come out. I had forgotten about the coat hanger trick. As I was about to leave, someone walked by and I asked if they had a minute. I held the push button in and we both pulled up. It gave way and I now had a complete headrest although it was stripped.

As I had already had the leather off the seat, but still captured by the head rest wells, I had a new challange. I stared into the wells until I went blind trying to figure out how to operate the releases. Closing time was coming so I pulled out the big guns again. I pulled them out with a pair of Channel Locks. Even with them out, I still could not figure out how to peaceably remove them. Now the leather seat back came right of as well as the heated seat pad. I was out of time so I had to leave the seat bottom intact.

View attachment 270569 This may not be the original pic

I was able to talk my son into coming with me about 9 days later. Guess what, The lone seat was still there. This time I brought a few DeWalt batteries fully charged and some wires with connectors for the batteries. My son stuck his head into the glass lined floor andproceeded to directly hot wire all of the motors. He would have been happy to only do the one needed to move the seat forward, but you know Murphy...

Whle he did that, I removed what looked like a decent intake manifold, an intact MAF, the body side drivers door main connector (someone who only took the outside mirror painted panels busted out the window as the door would not open and trashed the door panels and actually the mirrors as well - some people) and some other odds and ends I thought might come in handy. Eureka, he got it. I moved in with the breaker bar and removed the seat bolts and seat, I also snipped out the body side connector in case I needed to harvest some pins. All in all it was a good day, I had lunch with my son and scored some leather sets!

Auto part

I finally consolidated the power heated leather seats from the 2012 2LT in my garage. As I said earlier, the drivers was stripped apart because I thought I would not be able to get the motor to run to move the seat off of the floor bolts to remove them. I figured half a seat was better than no seat. So I set forth to try and repatriate the leathers back to the seat. It took me about an hour as the zippers are extremely tricky to get started without tearing the stiching apart. I found the headrest was much easier to recover if you roll the leather between 1/3 and 1/2 back on itself. Do not pull on the small side tabs though, the stiching will come right out.
Except for the wells, this is the reconstituted drivers seat.

Car seat cover Car seat Car Vehicle Head restraint

Now to install them
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Yesterday I did some spring cleaning - installed some new mud flaps and cleaned up the engine bay. I was going to wash her today, but it rained instead.
Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part Fender

here is a broken flap
Alloy wheel Tire Wheel Automotive tire Auto part

Broke the lugs
Vehicle door Vehicle Alloy wheel Wheel Car

jacked her up View attachment 270579
Vehicle Bumper Car Automotive exterior Auto part

Cleaned off the area and found that the flaps rub the paint off. Good thing the panel is plastic.

After installing the rears, I decided I might as well put the fronts on. Not sure why, but I originally choose not to do this when I installed the first set.
You have to remove the plastic rivnut from inside the wheel well, and also from under the door sill. You can kind of see the hole in the shroud. I ended up using a panel nut and one of the screws that came with the flaps as the hole in the flap was too small and I did not want to weaken it any more than it already was. I also just screwed a second screw into the wheel well shroud. Not the best, but we will see.
Automotive exterior Roof Bumper Vehicle Auto part

This is a front flap installed
Alloy wheel Tire Automotive tire Wheel Vehicle

This is some of the hardware
Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part Table

As I finished each end of the vehicle, I torqued the lugs to 100 ft-lbs. View attachment 270585
Alloy wheel Tire Wheel Automotive tire Auto part

Cleaned the engine bay up a bit.
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Engine Auto part

#991 78286
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How I swapped in power seats

I acquired my leathers seats (I’ll refer to these as the new seats) a few weeks ago, ordered new headrest sockets and gathered all my tools.

Metalworking hand tool Tool

I disconnected the battery using a 10mm socket and 3/8” ratchet.
I opened the driver’s door and used a razor to gently pry the cover on the seat belt connection open and then used my seal puller to open it all the way. No marks were left. I used just the pick on one at LKQ and it left a small divot.

Auto part Seat belt Car seat Automotive wheel system Vehicle door
Seat belt Car seat Auto part Fashion accessory Bag

I then used the same 10mm socket and ratchet to unthread the bolt holding the belt together. After what seemed like a long time ratcheting, I checked to see why it was not coming out. I forgot this bolt is held in by a friction washer, so the next time I checked sooner.

Auto part

After disconnecting the belt, I put the cover back on and closed the cap so I would not lose or break it. These can be rebuilt – more on that later.
I then moved the seat (the old seats) all the way forward. I discovered later that I should have raised it all the way up as well.

Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part Technology Electronics

Through the back door, I used my articulated ratchet along with a ½” to 3/8” adapter and the largest Torx bit from my Harbor Freight kit to break the front seat bolts loose. A short, but beefy ½” drive ratchet with a pipe nipple for a sliding cheater was my other choice. I now know why the Torx bits were on sale. They all are marked 3/8 for the ratchet size and nothing for the Torx size.

Auto part Vehicle door Automotive exterior Vehicle Car

I used my impact with a socket adapter and the Torx bit to remove them after breaking them loose. The impact was not strong enough to loosen them.
Once the bolts are out, I used my knees to push the seat up and forward and grabbed the slide rails with my hands and pulled back about 1-2 inches until the front hooks released.

Vehicle Car Luxury vehicle Auto part

I set the seat down, got out and went to the driver’s door. I used a rawhide mallet to hold the seat up so I could disconnect the umbilical cord. First, I flipped the trap door open.

Automotive exterior Floor Bumper Auto part Hood
Auto part Automotive exterior Bumper Automotive window part Windshield

I then found the tab used to lever out the connector.

Hand Finger Thumb
Auto part

I levered out the locking device and the plug came right out. I pulled the mallet out and set the seat back down.

Electronics Technology Electronic device
Auto part Bumper Automotive exterior Trunk

I got out and should have put the seat all the way back, but I didn’t, and I struggled to get the seat out the front door. The passenger side I remembered to put the seat back and I took it out the back door. Much easier.

With both drivers’ seats (old and new) out and lying on their sides, I started on the new seat as these had blown seat belt tensioners.

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I am going to describe this as if the seats are in the normal position even though I have them lying on their sides. I found that if I grabbed the tensioner cover plastic about 2/3rd’s of the way towards the front and with my fingers between it and the seat, twist and lift upwards while at the same time, using my other hand to push the front of the plastic piece up and also towards the front (forgot to take a picture of this), it will start to pivot off up and towards the back of the seat.

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How I Swapped in Power Seats part 2

Now, using the same Torx bit and my long breaker bar, I broke the silver bolt loose. Again, I used the impact to finish the removal process.

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Now to remove the wiring. I found that the clips used to hold the harness to the frame differed between the 2014 Lt and the 2012 2LT donor. The 2LT metal teeth clips needed to be helped along with a small flat tip screwdriver. Think shark bite. The LT clips were easy snap on/off types.
The plug for the harness was a bit tricky to figure out. Find the red tab and pull it out fully.

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There is a small tab that then needs to be squeezed to separate the plug.
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I ended up disconnecting the black push in clip so I could see how this worked. I used my little flat tip to lift the capture loop and slid it off. I removed it altogether from the seat to get this picture of it.

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I set the tensioner aside for the moment.

Rinsed and repeated on the old seat. I then took the tensioner from the old seat and installed it on the new seat. You should use blue Loctite on the bolt, but used red as that is what I had on hand. It may be a mistake as red is supposed to be permanent. I torqued the bolt to 33ft-lbs using my torque wrench, the adapter and the Torx bit.

I then reinstalled the better looking of the two plastic covers. (Remembering that they are left and right handed.) I then put the blown one from the new seat back on the old seat. I did not use thread locker nor did I reattach the harness thinking that if I ever changed back to stock or possibly sold the stock seats, someone would end up taking those off again and possibly be rebuilding them. Why make it harder.
With seat out I took the time to vacuum the carpet. The driver’s side was terrible compared to the passenger side. Some slob must have taken up residence. I also cleaned up the console a bit too.

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I inserted the front seat through the rear door and installed it in reverse of the removal. Same for the passenger side. Again, the bolts require blue Loctite and 33ft-lbs of torque.

This is a comparison between the 2LT cord (top) and the LT cord (bottom)

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To be continued later


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How I removed and replaced my Rear Seats

To start, I disconnected the battery with a 10mm socket and 3/8” ratchet. I removed the back-seat bottom by tugging on the end of the seat and gradually going toward the center.

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I then used a 15mm open end wrench to take of the three nuts under the center of the folding seat backs.

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With the nuts removed, folded the seat backs down. I then lifted the bracket up and gently pulled the seats towards the front seats creating a V between them.

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I stepped into the V opening with one foot and reached down and lifted at the intersection with the now unbolted bracket. I lifted, up and forward, at the same time until the seat swivel pin came out of the 40% seat.

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With the seats separated, the real work was to begin. I had read somewhere that all you had to do was push the seat back toward the door to get it out. It was
not all that easy nor was it clear on how to disengage the spring-loaded pin. I struggled with this for quite some time. I tried screw drivers, brute force pushing while trying to lift. Nothing doing, especially by myself. I was getting tired when I hit a eureka moment. I ran downstairs and grabbed one of my longer reversable quick clamps. I quickly reset it to be a spreader and got to work.
These are shots in sequence as far as what to look for but are of both sides. I just pieced this together to explain it. The first picture is the spring-loaded pin at rest. The second is when the seat is pushed towards the pin socket. The third is after it was removed and the fourth is an empty socket.

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To be able to lift out the seat, the pin needs to look like number two. In order to get it there, I used my quick clamp spreader.

I lost this photo somehow

This is after I popped out the first pin.

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I reset and pushed the 60% seat to get it out.

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Because I could not steady the spreader and lift at the same time, I used a prybar, as centered under the pin as best I could, to facilitate the lift. Now that the seat is disconnected, I set the 60% back against the front seats, so it will be out of my way even though it is still connected via the seatbelt.

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The next thing is to remove the nut holding the center passenger seatbelt. Remember the tab on the right and how it goes back together.

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The last part of the removal, for me anyways, was the airbag bolsters. I think it would make things easier if you take them out either before or after the seat bottom is removed. I found that grasping both sides of the top is easiest. When you are pulling, pull out perpendicular to the sheet metal behind the bolster. Remember that the bolster pivots out for removal. This picture shows the metal loop that is sandwiched with a plastic piece that is inserted into a plastic cup that is in a sheet metal hole.

The second picture shows that the cup and insert is still in the hole as it did not come out with the bolster. I was able to reuse the clips this time. I ordered a pair of them just in case I damaged them. The third picture shows the lower mounting hole. [The plastic piece on the bolster just slips in, rotate the bolster towards the seat and clip in the top clip to install it.]

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The next thing to do to remove the bolsters is to unplug them. I found that a pair of needle nose pliers did the trick for me. I used a pair that the teeth were still decent and grasped the orange part and using my other hand, held back on the yellow part. It came apart very easily.

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Now that the seats are out, I set about vacuuming and cleaning up the melted Good & Plenty’s my daughters left me. (I think I have since found a better way to remove the seats, but I’ll explain this later.)

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