Blasirl’s Build:
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I think I neutered the car!
Was driving home from work yesterday and for some reason I flipped the switch while at full throttle to kick in the Elite tune, which I purposely try to never do, and ….nothing! No boost whatsoever. If I feather the throttle I can get it up to about 3 psi, but then it drops back down to nothing.
I put it back to the Advantage Tune and still nothing. It was like I had a 1.8 with fewer cubes. No codes or CELs so far and I had put about 15 miles on her after this happened. I popped the hood once I was home and everything looked as it should. If it is nice tomorrow, maybe I'll do a boost leak test.
98669
Was driving home from work yesterday and for some reason I flipped the switch while at full throttle to kick in the Elite tune, which I purposely try to never do, and ….nothing! No boost whatsoever. If I feather the throttle I can get it up to about 3 psi, but then it drops back down to nothing.
I put it back to the Advantage Tune and still nothing. It was like I had a 1.8 with fewer cubes. No codes or CELs so far and I had put about 15 miles on her after this happened. I popped the hood once I was home and everything looked as it should. If it is nice tomorrow, maybe I'll do a boost leak test.
98669
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Now what did you do?
I don't quite understand.....
How does this flipping a switch thing work?
I would think that in terms of performance, when you start changing hard parts that you would need to stick with one ECM Calibration all the time to keep the things consistent. Maybe I'm not understanding how Trifecta does it?
You might want to try re-flashing the tune - I'm wondering if, since you were under high load, it confused the **** out of the ECM.
Someone I know just had something similarly weird happen with his FoST - he was sitting in the car, engine off...with the air on? (it was only like 60 out, so I'm not sure why this happened, but I digress)...and killed the battery. Recharged the battery - car would start and then die a few seconds later. New battery. Same thing.
Reflashed his stock tune, car runs just fine. Reflashed his performance tune, and he's back to normal. Somehow it just made the ECM go crazy, apparently. But it was fixed with reflashes.
Someone I know just had something similarly weird happen with his FoST - he was sitting in the car, engine off...with the air on? (it was only like 60 out, so I'm not sure why this happened, but I digress)...and killed the battery. Recharged the battery - car would start and then die a few seconds later. New battery. Same thing.
Reflashed his stock tune, car runs just fine. Reflashed his performance tune, and he's back to normal. Somehow it just made the ECM go crazy, apparently. But it was fixed with reflashes.
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Fancy....
But I could also see how it may be problematic under certain circumstances.
I tend to lean toward mechanical side of things when I see issues with turbo systems. My brain says look at the waste gate actuator. I get that these are technically electronically controlled via a solenoid but if the mechanical part that holds the gate closed is not functioning then no boost. again this is just my thoughts.. I'm new to this car but not new to turbo systems. Other thought that it I believe your looking into is a coupling has slid loose somewhere llowing the pressure out instead of containing it to the pipes.
Where did you get this ? Just metal sheathing or is there an insulator inside as well ?
Cruise control on = Stock + or eco tune Cruise off is sport mode unless his eco tune is set for something else.
Basically I have two tunes loaded at the same time. One is considered a stock tune - with provisions for installed aftermarket parts, the Advantage Tune, and the other is one that takes advantage of the installed aftermarket parts, but also modifies the fuel tables, shift points etc. to get the most out of the engine without blowing it up. Trifecta uses the Cruise control switch to switch between them. If you have cruise on, you really don't need the Elite tune. If it is off, well, away we go.
I first considered that, but I wanted to get some readings with a OBD-II reader that can chart live data. I went for a ride today, after doing the static reading and made sure I was at operating temp, and recorded for about five minutes. Since this is the first time I have used this reader, I have not yet really looked at the data. What I do know is as of last night, I still had a P0420, that I had planned on taking care of this week, This morning though, I had two more codes. P0017 and pending P0014. These have to do with the crankshaft sensor.
When I popped my hood this mooring, the engine was idling and I could here a metallic clicking that wasn't quite regular in rhythm. So I am staring into the engine bay listening thinking WTF is this. Well anyway I happened to be staring at the waste gate actuator thinking, maybe that is my culprit or maybe possibly my BPV as well. Then my mind wandered to later this spring and going to the track to see what my current setup can do. Then I snapped back thinking I may have to forgo the track and install my Forge pieces.
Well, I still needed to go for a ride to get my live data for the reader, so I went. Guess what, The Boost is Back! (That kinda sounds like the lyrics from an Elton John song)
That is exhaust wrap.
Could not find any boost leaks at all.
P0017 causes may include:
Timing chain stretched,or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear
Misalignment of timingbelt/chain
Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken
Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken
Bad crank sensor
Bad cam sensor
Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor
Timingbelt/chain tensioner damaged
An improperly torqued crankshaft balancer
A mis-built or mis-timed engine
A loose or missing crankshaft balancer bolt
The CMP actuator solenoid stuck open
The CMP actuator stuck in a position other than 0 degrees
Read more at: P0017 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor B)
A P0014 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following:
Incorrect camshaft timing
Wiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system
Continuous oil flow to VCT piston chamber
Failed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open)
Read more at: Code P0014 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
Timing chain stretched,
Misalignment of timing
Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken
Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken
Bad crank sensor
Bad cam sensor
Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor
Timing
An improperly torqued crankshaft balancer
A mis-built or mis-timed engine
A loose or missing crankshaft balancer bolt
The CMP actuator solenoid stuck open
The CMP actuator stuck in a position other than 0 degrees
Read more at: P0017 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor B)
A P0014 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following:
Incorrect camshaft timing
Wiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system
Continuous oil flow to VCT piston chamber
Failed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open)
Read more at: Code P0014 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
Did you clear the codes and try again? Limp mode causes all sorts of weird stuff and codes. Ask me how I know lol.
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