I've been to my dealership about 3 times now for this strange noise. The only time it got better is when they lubed the caliper pins. Only lasted about a week though. I have a 2017 Chevy cruze limited with 30,000 miles on it. Started around 25,000 miles. Sounds like it's coming from the front right brake. Funny thing is, my exact same car was driving by with the same exact noise from same side!! This time I went, dealership said outta no where that my pads were cracked and rotors are warped! Funny cause less than a month ago I had pa state inspection and they were just fine and the "18 point inspection" Chevy does every time said they were fine, and 2 weeks ago they took my brakes apart for the 3rd time and everything was fine then to......I just want this noise gone. It sounds like a metallic clicking/ spring noise. When I press the pedal and release the brake pedal it does it. Strange thing is that when I'm at a full stop with the pedal the whole way down, it'll continue to make the sound for about 3 seconds. Almost sounds like a metal rubber band or something. When they lubed the caliper pins it wasn't 100% fixed but almost. But again, it only lasted about a week. please help!!
Brake noise, metallic spring creaking
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Road salt country? Yearly job, practically all are using torque plates now, rust builds under those clips binding the pads. Pad backing plates are not plated, painted, rust builds up on the tips. This is where anti-seize works, least for me, been doing this for years.
Not only silicone on the caliper guide pins, but make sure the boots are loaded too, call this a dam for road salt. Not only here, but also on the caliper piston boots, put a bead of silicone on the inside to keep out road salt.
Test is super simple, spin the wheel, should be a very slight drag, hit the brakes, and spin it again, may find that wheel is locked or has plenty of drag. Yet another cause are the brake hoses themselves if made in China and not vulcanized properly, many layers, if the inside layer breaks free, acts like a check valve keeping the brakes engaged.
Yet another problem is ABS, since they made this law, sure a piece of crap now, to be fair, all later models are this way now. Dot 3 is hygroscopic, absorbs moisture forming a gum, Dot 4 is suppose to be a little bit better, but has a lower boiling point. Can jam those cheap tiny solenoid valves and get no brakes at all. Use to be able to hot wire the ABS pump, and pulse each solenoid, can't do this anymore, need a scanner now, with all vehicles. Shop manual even states to only activate the pump motor of short periods of time or you will burn it up, there goes 600 bucks! And this is if you DIY. ABS pumps use to be separate, but this is what happens when congress makes laws and don't know the first thing about cars.
Still can bleed yourself with a vacuum pump, but keep that reservoir full, some say every year, from experience with a well sealed system, least every three years.
Not only silicone on the caliper guide pins, but make sure the boots are loaded too, call this a dam for road salt. Not only here, but also on the caliper piston boots, put a bead of silicone on the inside to keep out road salt.
Test is super simple, spin the wheel, should be a very slight drag, hit the brakes, and spin it again, may find that wheel is locked or has plenty of drag. Yet another cause are the brake hoses themselves if made in China and not vulcanized properly, many layers, if the inside layer breaks free, acts like a check valve keeping the brakes engaged.
Yet another problem is ABS, since they made this law, sure a piece of crap now, to be fair, all later models are this way now. Dot 3 is hygroscopic, absorbs moisture forming a gum, Dot 4 is suppose to be a little bit better, but has a lower boiling point. Can jam those cheap tiny solenoid valves and get no brakes at all. Use to be able to hot wire the ABS pump, and pulse each solenoid, can't do this anymore, need a scanner now, with all vehicles. Shop manual even states to only activate the pump motor of short periods of time or you will burn it up, there goes 600 bucks! And this is if you DIY. ABS pumps use to be separate, but this is what happens when congress makes laws and don't know the first thing about cars.
Still can bleed yourself with a vacuum pump, but keep that reservoir full, some say every year, from experience with a well sealed system, least every three years.
Joined
·
17,889 Posts
I know that noise. Just grease the caliper slides with a good silicone brake grease and you'll be fine.
It would be so much easier if there was a way to have an audio clip on here lol putting lube on the pins lasted about a week. Then everything went back to the same horrible sound. The dealership is just trying to waste my time and $$ at this point. $500 for just front brakes is offensive!! I'll do it myself for all that. I dunno, can we put an audio clip on here???
Joined
·
17,889 Posts
You'd have to link to a YouTube clip or something. Mine was just a chirp/squeak when brakes were put on or force on the pedal Adjusted.
I had to redo mine twice. First time was a cheap packet of something I picked up at Napa; second time was a good silicone brake grease. That solved it for me.
Joined
·
17,889 Posts
I do hear the vacuum pump running, but I also hear the creaking that I believe is what you're referring to. My guess would be caliper slide points still, but mine was more of a cricket sound while applying brakes at low speed or when stopped.
Here's the vacuum pump specifically.
https://youtu.be/pJZNwTpipuU
Here's the vacuum pump specifically.
https://youtu.be/pJZNwTpipuU
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Join the discussion
