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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After Blowing the cruze for the 3rd time (2 turbos blew) this time im dealing with a burnt head. I got my EGT too high and burnt the valve guides on the 2 most inner exhaust ports.
Top end looks like the cams are worn. Getting a shop to take a look for a second opinion.
Just got the bottom end out, everything looks fine.
Going to drop in Vtuner forged pistons and valve springs in the head.

Also fixing Water/Meth injection... Lower thoes EGT's

Going to get a Vtuner tune (w/ supporting bigger EV14 injectors, 3.3Bar Map sensor, typhoon intake)
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Automotive piston Auto part Table Piston ring

Stock vs Vtuner Pistons
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
you rebuilt your engine with it still in the engine bay?
It wasn't an option to pull the engine, as it likes to come out the bottom. You gotta remove the upper engine mount and support the engine to remove the crap from the front cover. Otherwise it was a dream to work on.

I see your signature shows 12:1 AFR (0.81 Lambda), seems lean from what I have seen. Do you get significant gains over running 0.75-0.78?
Yes i was having trouble with 0.75 and the water/methanol it would give me a heavy spark blow out. So i leaned out the tune slightly to compensate. I will be going back to a rich tune when i address my lack of fuel delivery and install the BNR coil pack upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So, how are you addressing the limitations of the stock fuel pump?
Actually im looking for help in that department, i wanted to go higher pressure fuel pump instead of #52 or #60 EV14
If i've seen a few modded pumps to fit in the cruze tank, but im still holding out for a plug and play one.
Any recommendations?


Also need a tune that can accurately meter air over 22/lb min to break my 220hp limit. I can throw $1500 at it and get a typhoon intake , bigger injectors and EFI live tune, but i'm looking to use HP tuners + upgraded fuel pump + stock diameter intake for accurate MAF readings to get over 220 WHP.
 

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Actually im looking for help in that department, i wanted to go higher pressure fuel pump instead of #52 or #60 EV14
If i've seen a few modded pumps to fit in the cruze tank, but im still holding out for a plug and play one.
Any recommendations?


Also need a tune that can accurately meter air over 22/lb min to break my 220hp limit. I can throw $1500 at it and get a typhoon intake , bigger injectors and EFI live tune, but i'm looking to use HP tuners + upgraded fuel pump + stock diameter intake for accurate MAF readings to get over 220 WHP.
One of our mods over on the Facebook side is running a BNR GTX turbo, forged pistons, stiffer valve springs, and e85. He's capped at 220whp because the fuel pump can't keep up. I believe a few people are experimenting with a plug n play fuel pump from a different application, may have been the ATS? I don't remember exactly, but long story short, I have no solution, and I was hoping you would, since the community could sure use one. With those reworked turbos, these cars are easily capable of 250whp, but we can't supply the fuel to do it.

As for the tune, Jerry @ BNR has done more with this platform than I've seen anyone else do, and is in my opinion the best tuner we have available. He can tune remotely via EFILive or HPTuners. It wouldn't hurt to have a chat with him if you haven't already.

Get a bigger filter for that K&N intake; you're going to need it. There's a huge Injen EA filter available that will fit that intake.

I'll be watching this build thread closely and will help in any way I can.
 

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Has anyone looked into the Hiflo pump from ZZP? Iv'e been holding off on installing my E85 kit due to the fuel issue. I heard i could squeeze a little more out of it on race gas. So Iv'e been doing that since I have a little hook up on 100oct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
So its been 10,000 miles since my first engine rebuild. I'm still smoking crazy amounts of blue smoke, i've expected it to burn off by now. I'm hardly losing any oil, im dropping a notch on the dip stick every 2500 miles. Getting maybe two ounces of oil in the catch can and 2 cups of water.

Inspecting the runners, valve seals are holding (better be after a $800 machining bill) and i just did a compression test and got 170 psi across the board. Piston tops look dry and i can see a quarter size area of shinny metal from water/meth wash.

40,000 high boost miles on the new intercooler and no catch can, 2000 miles w/catch can so far and i've caught 2 ounces. So im thinking of tearing off the intercooler and maybe finding up to 40 ounces of icy oily crap thats causing me to smoke all day every day.

It doesn't smoke on cold start up. When everything heats up it smokes clouds at idle, only to clear up after 5+ min of idleing. Under boost it clears up right away. But i do have oil spots on my back bumper so i am moving oil on the highway at some point (cant see any) It gets the worst in stop and go traffic, i will literally make the people in the cars nearby start coughing...

Im not to sure what to try next
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ran some seafoam spary through the intake track, loosened up the oil and cleared it out. Cleaned some tubing by hand and tired it again, its is now apparent that im losing oil on the compressor side of the turbo (turbonetics 11038 ball bearing)

Its losing about a cup every 1000 miles which is pretty annoying. I just ordered an oil pressure gauge and am going to check crank case pressures and oil pressures. Considering how im leaking i figure it would be to much oil drian back pressure or to much pressure feeding into the turbo.

Inspecting the turbo by hand i cant see any play in the shaft or anything else funky. If my pressures are all normal i'll get the turbo rebuilt.

Can confirm oil is from turbo, catch can and pcv system are functioning normally and as expected. Getting an oz of oil every 1000 miles in the catch can.
 

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****, sucks to have all that work done and smoke like a train. worries me to upgrade my pistons head work lol. Did you buy a new head, then just have it checked out and add stiffer springs installed?
 

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Ran some seafoam spary through the intake track, loosened up the oil and cleared it out. Cleaned some tubing by hand and tired it again, its is now apparent that im losing oil on the compressor side of the turbo (turbonetics 11038 ball bearing)

Its losing about a cup every 1000 miles which is pretty annoying. I just ordered an oil pressure gauge and am going to check crank case pressures and oil pressures. Considering how im leaking i figure it would be to much oil drian back pressure or to much pressure feeding into the turbo.

Inspecting the turbo by hand i cant see any play in the shaft or anything else funky. If my pressures are all normal i'll get the turbo rebuilt.

Can confirm oil is from turbo, catch can and pcv system are functioning normally and as expected. Getting an oz of oil every 1000 miles in the catch can.
My first thought was that it might be possible that the stock PCV system tubing is completely inadequate at high boost when running the probably slightly looser forged pistons that the turbo drain line can't drain as quickly as it needs to because of positive pressure in the crankcase. We saw this happen on old, tired Volvo engines running bigger turbos. Solution was to put a larger diameter PCV pipe and hose fitting (very small diameter at the turbo intake for some reason) on the inlet side of the turbo.

Otoh, it seems like you mostly have issues around idle though, which is stranger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My first thought was that it might be possible that the stock PCV system tubing is completely inadequate at high boost when running the probably slightly looser forged pistons that the turbo drain line can't drain as quickly as it needs to because of positive pressure in the crankcase. We saw this happen on old, tired Volvo engines running bigger turbos. Solution was to put a larger diameter PCV pipe and hose fitting (very small diameter at the turbo intake for some reason) on the inlet side of the turbo.
Think your right about the stock pcv being restricting... All the evidence is there for high crank pressure, leaking were it shouldn't n all

Putting a 3/4 relief through the valve cover, going through the new high flow catch can and into the intake. The stock PCV track will be restored as well, hopefully giving me over 3x the venting capacity.

Oil pressure gauge is going in as well to make sure all that is in order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Auto part Vehicle Engine Car Automotive engine part

High crank pressure and smoking was caused by a blown turbo seal (turbine side) which also allowed exhaust gas into the engine.

Back up and running stronger, colder, 42 MPG
No smoke most importantly
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Can you share how you build the exhaust header to bolt to the larger turbo?
Hand built by Howie @ HE Performance. It looks like he cuts the exhaust flange himself with a CNC Plasma cutter, and uses sch 80 pipe steel, and connects it to a pre-made T3 flange.

Someone make a cast manifold plox
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

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Where abouts did you mount the tank and motor for Water/meth? I Was thinking of mounting the tank on the strut tower, passenger side
 
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