[Markj2222]

After Blowing the cruze for the 3rd time (2 turbos blew) this time im dealing with a burnt head. I got my EGT too high and burnt the valve guides on the 2 most inner exhaust ports.
Top end looks like the cams are worn. Getting a shop to take a look for a second opinion.
Just got the bottom end out, everything looks fine.
Going to drop in Vtuner forged pistons and valve springs in the head.

Also fixing Water/Meth injection... Lower thoes EGT's

Going to get a Vtuner tune (w/ supporting bigger EV14 injectors, 3.3Bar Map sensor, typhoon intake)

 

[Markj2222]

Stock vs Vtuner Pistons

 

[Markj2222]

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[Markj2222]

you rebuilt your engine with it still in the engine bay?

It wasn't an option to pull the engine, as it likes to come out the bottom. You gotta remove the upper engine mount and support the engine to remove the crap from the front cover. Otherwise it was a dream to work on.

I see your signature shows 12:1 AFR (0.81 Lambda), seems lean from what I have seen. Do you get significant gains over running 0.75-0.78?

Yes i was having trouble with 0.75 and the water/methanol it would give me a heavy spark blow out. So i leaned out the tune slightly to compensate. I will be going back to a rich tune when i address my lack of fuel delivery and install the BNR coil pack upgrade.

 

[Markj2222]

So, how are you addressing the limitations of the stock fuel pump?

Actually im looking for help in that department, i wanted to go higher pressure fuel pump instead of #52 or #60 EV14
If i've seen a few modded pumps to fit in the cruze tank, but im still holding out for a plug and play one.
Any recommendations?


Also need a tune that can accurately meter air over 22/lb min to break my 220hp limit. I can throw $1500 at it and get a typhoon intake , bigger injectors and EFI live tune, but i'm looking to use HP tuners + upgraded fuel pump + stock diameter intake for accurate MAF readings to get over 220 WHP.

 

[Markj2222]

So its been 10,000 miles since my first engine rebuild. I'm still smoking crazy amounts of blue smoke, i've expected it to burn off by now. I'm hardly losing any oil, im dropping a notch on the dip stick every 2500 miles. Getting maybe two ounces of oil in the catch can and 2 cups of water.

Inspecting the runners, valve seals are holding (better be after a $800 machining bill) and i just did a compression test and got 170 psi across the board. Piston tops look dry and i can see a quarter size area of shinny metal from water/meth wash.

40,000 high boost miles on the new intercooler and no catch can, 2000 miles w/catch can so far and i've caught 2 ounces. So im thinking of tearing off the intercooler and maybe finding up to 40 ounces of icy oily crap thats causing me to smoke all day every day.

It doesn't smoke on cold start up. When everything heats up it smokes clouds at idle, only to clear up after 5+ min of idleing. Under boost it clears up right away. But i do have oil spots on my back bumper so i am moving oil on the highway at some point (cant see any) It gets the worst in stop and go traffic, i will literally make the people in the cars nearby start coughing...

Im not to sure what to try next

 

[Markj2222]

Ran some seafoam spary through the intake track, loosened up the oil and cleared it out. Cleaned some tubing by hand and tired it again, its is now apparent that im losing oil on the compressor side of the turbo (turbonetics 11038 ball bearing)

Its losing about a cup every 1000 miles which is pretty annoying. I just ordered an oil pressure gauge and am going to check crank case pressures and oil pressures. Considering how im leaking i figure it would be to much oil drian back pressure or to much pressure feeding into the turbo.

Inspecting the turbo by hand i cant see any play in the shaft or anything else funky. If my pressures are all normal i'll get the turbo rebuilt.

Can confirm oil is from turbo, catch can and pcv system are functioning normally and as expected. Getting an oz of oil every 1000 miles in the catch can.

 

[Markj2222]

My first thought was that it might be possible that the stock PCV system tubing is completely inadequate at high boost when running the probably slightly looser forged pistons that the turbo drain line can't drain as quickly as it needs to because of positive pressure in the crankcase. We saw this happen on old, tired Volvo engines running bigger turbos. Solution was to put a larger diameter PCV pipe and hose fitting (very small diameter at the turbo intake for some reason) on the inlet side of the turbo.

Think your right about the stock pcv being restricting... All the evidence is there for high crank pressure, leaking were it shouldn't n all

Putting a 3/4 relief through the valve cover, going through the new high flow catch can and into the intake. The stock PCV track will be restored as well, hopefully giving me over 3x the venting capacity.

Oil pressure gauge is going in as well to make sure all that is in order.

 

[Markj2222]

High crank pressure and smoking was caused by a blown turbo seal (turbine side) which also allowed exhaust gas into the engine.

Back up and running stronger, colder, 42 MPG
No smoke most importantly

 

[Markj2222]

Can you share how you build the exhaust header to bolt to the larger turbo?

Hand built by Howie @ HE Performance. It looks like he cuts the exhaust flange himself with a CNC Plasma cutter, and uses sch 80 pipe steel, and connects it to a pre-made T3 flange.

Someone make a cast manifold plox

 

[Markj2222]

 

[Markj2222]

tapped into the windshield wiper tank. The pump is infront of the wiper tank, mounted to this triangle piece of metal.

I could only get 3 bolts in, needed to glue the nuts on the back cause it can only be accessed from one side.
Through out all the mounting hardware in the kit and went for stainless hardware.