I ended up replacing spark plugs with higher quality ones replaced the coil with oem and added die electric grease to the connector to make sure it has a better contact point also been putting high octane fuel. It’s been a few months, driving it every day and still good. Never found a solid cause for the problem,I checked all the harnesses around the engine and connectors. Every thing seemed to be good. Only other possible cause could be a harness around the frame that I can’t see rubbing and shorting out. If anything changes I’ll definitely post it up. Thanks
Tips to ensure no misfires occur:
Remove the coil pack. If the boots are stuck on, use a small screwdriver or pick with some dielectric grease on it to go around the outside of the boot and then possibly the inside of the boot to help aid in removal.
Remember to (p)re-gap your plugs to .028, (0.24 if tuned)
Set gap with the black portion of this tool.
To increase the gap size bend the ground strap up to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE
IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN.
Measure the gap with feeler gauges.
Throw this away.
Torque to 18 ft-lbs with no anti-seize on the threads of a stock type plug.
Ensure the boots have no rips/tears or holes in them, lightly coat them with dielectric/silicone grease and make sure the resister springs are clean and not caught up in the boots when you install them.
If the plugs look bad, consider these:
-BKR8EIX-2668 (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
-BKR7E-4644 (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.
Read
Hesitation Gone! for more info on the plugs.
A good replacement coil is the
MSD Blaster OEM Replacement Coilpack 8236