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We even had one member here, tecollins1, who used the K&N filter, and when taking it off, used a paper towel to wipe the inside of the intake duct, and collected a visible amount of dust particle.

Furthermore, I have seen direct consequences of the poor filtration of K&N filters in oil analysis reports, where the silicone levels are higher than expected. Silicone, in this case, comes from dust ingested by the intake system.
That dirt on the inside of the intake would have been worth a picture or two.... and that was just the stuff that stuck on the walls of the intake system and not ingested and then some of which would have turned into oil sludge.

When I see this type of filter being widely used by the farming and construction industries then I will be convinced that they are good enough for my engines, one of which is a dust laden tractor backhoe loader.
 

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That dirt on the inside of the intake would have been worth a picture or two.... and that was just the stuff that stuck on the walls of the intake system and not ingested and then some of which would have turned into oil sludge.

When I see this type of filter being widely used by the farming and construction industries then I will be convinced that they are good enough for my engines, one of which is a dust laden tractor backhoe loader.
He did take pictures, and posted them, but I don't remember which thread it was in.

There were pictures on this post, but the links are broken:

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-1-4l-turbo/49753-replacement-upgrade-filter-k-n-sri-intake-post808074.html#post808074
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Thanks guys, I'll definitely take a longer, in depth look into this issue and may even change these filters out in the future. Are there any documented holset turbo failures due to insufficient air filtration I can read through?

The one on my bike as well as the two on my hot rod wont be getting changed out either haha.
 

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Thanks guys, I'll definitely take a longer, in depth look into this issue and may even change these filters out in the future. Are there any documented holset turbo failures due to insufficient air filtration I can read through?

The one on my bike as well as the two on my hot rod wont be getting changed out either haha.
Just google "turbo dusting." It's more of a long-term problem. The better your air filtration, the longer your turbo will last. The silicone that gets in the oil is abrasive. I don't know that anyone has done a lot of studies on this, but it can't be a good thing, for cylinder walls, piston rings, or any high pressure surfaces.
 

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...

I have a bypass filter on my Cruze 1.4T, and have been using it for about 21k miles now. While I have no baseline comparison, my last oil analysis was quite good given my driving conditions and oil change interval. I see it as a cheap way to extend the life of the turbo that would otherwise cost me $650+ to replace. Time will tell if it will actually serve that purpose.
Question: do you have pictures of this or a link to how you did it? I have a Mann Provent 200 in my CTD to pull oil out of the intake system (having previously cleaned a VW TDI Intake of the tar build-up, I have no interest in that). I would imagine that this bypass filter (which, as a new Amsoil dealer myself, I would love to get and give a try) would certainly be worth the money to get into the car... if I could find a good spot to plumb it in.

EDIT: I clicked the next Google search result down from this one and found your DIY guide. Given that you know a LOT more about oil than I do, and that diesels (even clean ones like mine) do produce a fair amount of soot, do you think this is a worthwhile addition to the car? I've read that some diesel truck guys report a gain in HP and/or efficiency from the better oil too?
 

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Question: do you have pictures of this or a link to how you did it? I have a Mann Provent 200 in my CTD to pull oil out of the intake system (having previously cleaned a VW TDI Intake of the tar build-up, I have no interest in that). I would imagine that this bypass filter (which, as a new Amsoil dealer myself, I would love to get and give a try) would certainly be worth the money to get into the car... if I could find a good spot to plumb it in.

EDIT: I clicked the next Google search result down from this one and found your DIY guide. Given that you know a LOT more about oil than I do, and that diesels (even clean ones like mine) do produce a fair amount of soot, do you think this is a worthwhile addition to the car? I've read that some diesel truck guys report a gain in HP and/or efficiency from the better oil too?
How many miles before you had to clean your TDI intake?
 

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How many miles before you had to clean your TDI intake?
Good question. I bought it at 230,000 miles and sold it at close to 270,000 miles - and did the intake about halfway through my ownership. I have no idea if it was ever done before me, but it was PRETTY gunked up:



Detail shot which still doesn't really capture the thickness of the gunk layer:



Luckily, a combination of a wet rag, a compressed air line, and a propane torch...



... means that the oil caught fire and was able to burn itself out of the intake manifold, requiring I carefully knock it after so the re-re-reburned soot fell out, if it hadn't already been burned out.

That many levels of re-re-re-burn is pretty goddamned metal, as well (and as scale for the size of those flames):



:grin:

THAT SAID: it was a pain in the ass to take apart, and took a while to get fully clean - and it was a PAIN to take apart.

So: even if this newer system does a better job of purging oil blowby from itself, assuming I keep this Cruze until 300k+ miles as is my plan* I believe, I would like it to be free of any build-up all the way through that period of ownership.

*This plan is contingent on Chevy NOT releasing a stick shift version of the 2017 TD Cruze, and me NOT trading in for it. If I get it, THAT car will get the bypass filter. :)
 

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Thanks for the detailed post! I suppose I will be the first one to find out if there are any intake gunking issues on the CTD, assuming I continue to pile the miles on like I have been. I will certainly report it on this forum if that ever happens.
 

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Intake build up like that shown above is more generally from EGR activity more than from something that a bypass filter would help.

A bypass filter is a good thing to help keep the oil clean and extend drain intervals, but I doubt it will help intake carbon buildup.

By the way most modern diesel engines do this to some degree due to the EGR system. I have heard of expensive repairs for it in BMW diesels and they use a composite plastic manifold so it has to be ultrasonic cleaned. I have also seen soot buildup in Duramax, Cummins and Power Stroke engines as well, but never to the degree I have seen with the VWs or heard about with the BMWs. We need to do the manifold in my son's 2002 TDI too...
 

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Question: do you have pictures of this or a link to how you did it? I have a Mann Provent 200 in my CTD to pull oil out of the intake system (having previously cleaned a VW TDI Intake of the tar build-up, I have no interest in that). I would imagine that this bypass filter (which, as a new Amsoil dealer myself, I would love to get and give a try) would certainly be worth the money to get into the car... if I could find a good spot to plumb it in.

EDIT: I clicked the next Google search result down from this one and found your DIY guide. Given that you know a LOT more about oil than I do, and that diesels (even clean ones like mine) do produce a fair amount of soot, do you think this is a worthwhile addition to the car? I've read that some diesel truck guys report a gain in HP and/or efficiency from the better oil too?
I do not believe the that the drain intervals that GM recommends for the CTD benefit from a bypass filter, on that metric alone. I am not convinced that it provides longevity benefits yet given the relatively light duty conditions a diesel turbo experiences compared to the gasoline turbo counterparts. That being said, if you drive a lot and want to extend your drain intervals, a bypass filter will go a long way in achieving that. That is, if you can fit the filter somewhere in that engine bay. The actual plumbing is not that big of a deal. It's fitting the big filter somewhere that is.

Intake build up like that shown above is more generally from EGR activity more than from something that a bypass filter would help.

A bypass filter is a good thing to help keep the oil clean and extend drain intervals, but I doubt it will help intake carbon buildup.

By the way most modern diesel engines do this to some degree due to the EGR system. I have heard of expensive repairs for it in BMW diesels and they use a composite plastic manifold so it has to be ultrasonic cleaned. I have also seen soot buildup in Duramax, Cummins and Power Stroke engines as well, but never to the degree I have seen with the VWs or heard about with the BMWs. We need to do the manifold in my son's 2002 TDI too...
I agree with Chris. A bypass filter will not help intake carbon buildup. A good oil might due to a lower volatility, and keeping your injectors clean so there is a more complete fuel burn would help as well.
 

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The Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-30 has stock number AELQT and the 5W-40 has stock number EFMQT and both are
ACEA A3 and Dexos 2 approved. The manual for the 2015 recommends that we use the 5W-30 but does state that one can use the 5W-40 in more extreme conditions. I am presently using the 5W-40 but may switch to the 5W-30 now that is Dexos 2 approved, as in Canada, my extreme weather tends to be more on the cold side than the hot side. Hope this helps.

As for filters, I have heard that the GM oil filter is not too bad, but if one wants to go premium WIX makes filters for the Cruze diesel. Amsoil is not co-operating yet. Oil - WIX WL10021, Air - WIX 49739 and Cabin Air - WIX 24590, I got these right from the Wix online site.
 

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Thanks for the detailed post! I suppose I will be the first one to find out if there are any intake gunking issues on the CTD, assuming I continue to pile the miles on like I have been. I will certainly report it on this forum if that ever happens.
No problem. Given that I have no idea if/when the cleaning was ever done on my TDI and I only got it with 230,000 miles on it... you may be good for a while yet to come. As I said though: the oil catch can install I did is worth it in my book as I do not ever have to clean that gunk out of this car.

Intake build up like that shown above is more generally from EGR activity more than from something that a bypass filter would help.

A bypass filter is a good thing to help keep the oil clean and extend drain intervals, but I doubt it will help intake carbon buildup.

By the way most modern diesel engines do this to some degree due to the EGR system. I have heard of expensive repairs for it in BMW diesels and they use a composite plastic manifold so it has to be ultrasonic cleaned. I have also seen soot buildup in Duramax, Cummins and Power Stroke engines as well, but never to the degree I have seen with the VWs or heard about with the BMWs. We need to do the manifold in my son's 2002 TDI too...
Sorry if I was unclear, I know the EGR was the problem (hence I deleted it on that TDI after the intake cleaning) - the bypass filter interests me less for extended intervals and more in reducing any and all engine wear. As you likely saw in my posting, the burning method is really the easiest way to clean the intake manifold. Be *SURE* to use a very wet rag over the EGR side of it to prevent the innards from melting from the heat.

I do not believe the that the drain intervals that GM recommends for the CTD benefit from a bypass filter, on that metric alone. I am not convinced that it provides longevity benefits yet given the relatively light duty conditions a diesel turbo experiences compared to the gasoline turbo counterparts. That being said, if you drive a lot and want to extend your drain intervals, a bypass filter will go a long way in achieving that. That is, if you can fit the filter somewhere in that engine bay. The actual plumbing is not that big of a deal. It's fitting the big filter somewhere that is....
Good to know. Honestly, I bet the bypass filter COULD fit easily into the place on the passenger's side where I mounted the Mann ProVent. That option, for me however, is now closed. :(
 

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The Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-30 has stock number AELQT and the 5W-40 has stock number EFMQT and both are
ACEA A3 and Dexos 2 approved. The manual for the 2015 recommends that we use the 5W-30 but does state that one can use the 5W-40 in more extreme conditions. I am presently using the 5W-40 but may switch to the 5W-30 now that is Dexos 2 approved, as in Canada, my extreme weather tends to be more on the cold side than the hot side. Hope this helps.

As for filters, I have heard that the GM oil filter is not too bad, but if one wants to go premium WIX makes filters for the Cruze diesel. Amsoil is not co-operating yet. Oil - WIX WL10021, Air - WIX 49739 and Cabin Air - WIX 24590, I got these right from the Wix online site.
Just wanted to point out that EFMQT 5w-40 does not meet the dexos2 specification per AMSOIL web site.
 

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- the bypass filter interests me less for extended intervals and more in reducing any and all engine wear.
I would think something like this won't make much of a difference since most engine wear happens on startup. I would think something that pre-oils the engine before you start it would be the way to go to achieve that goal. And also, I would bet you that I can get over 1,000,000 miles out of this engine fully stock with my 15K mile oil changes and stock OEM filters. Whether I put that many miles on it remains to be seen, but given that I have zero oil consumption after 160K miles, it seems as if this trend will continue.
 

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I've been looking to get a bypass oil filter installed too I was told by the parts dep. that the 2.0 Diesel engine uses a oil sending unit with M16X1.5 threads. You can buy a T fitting to T-off that sending unit and supply oil pressure to a bypass oil filter; but how to return the oil and where to mount the filter is a different story. How do you plan to return the oil?
 

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I've been looking to get a bypass oil filter installed too I was told by the parts dep. that the 2.0 Diesel engine uses a oil sending unit with M16X1.5 threads. You can buy a T fitting to T-off that sending unit and supply oil pressure to a bypass oil filter; but how to return the oil and where to mount the filter is a different story. How do you plan to return the oil?
I found the T-fitting that our mechanic recommended, still confirming if it fits https://www.lmaautoparts.co.uk/Motorsport/Gauges_Gauge_Fittings_Pipelines/T_Pieces?product_id=326
 
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