Really don't know until you try, if the sheet metal is stretched only was to shrink it is with a torch, and depends how fussy you are. Stepson, stuck in Venezuela was rear ended, and not quite like here, no law to file a claim, couldn't even close the trunk.
All I had to work with was a rusty pair of vice-grips and my bare hands, but actually didn't look that bad when I was done, but could close and lock the trunk. Was on a 97 Corolla.
Son here hit a deer on his 2000 Taurus, just married with a kid, no comprehensive on it, left fender was rubbing on the wheel, couldn't close the hood, didn't care about the minor wrinkles, but yet another hand job to straighten it out so the hood can be closed and the tire was no longer rubbing on the fender, did cost him 28 bucks for a new head lamp assembly.
Given a few more hours could have worked out those minor wrinkles, but was very driveable, that's all he cared about. Ha, like working on aluminum foil. Not the case like with a 37 Olds using 16 gauge nickel sheet metal, but back then could go to a wrecking yard and pick up a nice rust free fender for about a buck and was a bolt on. And those bolts did not break when trying to remove them.
Then someone backed into my daughter 98 ZX2 smashing that plastic bumper and the right parking light. Removed the bumper and backed it with sheets of aluminum, filled the cracks with that bumper repair stuff, quick sanding and just used solvent spray cans, looked like new again. Water based paints are a new problem.
Cruze was practically brand new when my wife was driving it while on her job with the hospital and a deer ran into the right front fender. Didn't fool with this, have 100 buck comprehensive, Chevy bodyshop is ran by a good old friend, 97 bucks for a new fender, but made darn sure it was properly undercoated and a brand new water based paint booth. Did a perfect job, but the bill was 1,100 bucks, comprehensive took care of that and her hospital picked up the other hundred bucks. Ha, they left off a couple of the push pin plastic rivets, went back and got those.
What I can't deal with is road salt, while I have the tools and a spot welder, nothing left to weld to, off to the wrecking yard they go, kind of sag in the middle. Not a fan of unibodies, and if crushed, the entire unibody is a throwaway part.
They don't make em, like they use to. My guess is it would cost at least 1,100 bucks to replace that trunk lid, its the labor for painting it that runs up the bill and can only be done by a shop with a proper water based paint booth.
Water based paint is a new problem, blame the EPA for this.