[kend]

Why didn't you post the codes? Less work than what you have done so far, just sayin' not knowin'!

Just like the title says... there are no codes. I plugged in the device and it shows no error codes. I’d assume that the shop would have checked them too as it’s been with them nearly a month and they can’t figure it out either for the moment.

 

[Blasirl]

Just like the title says... there are no codes. I plugged in the device and it shows no error codes. I’d assume that the shop would have checked them too as it’s been with them nearly a month and they can’t figure it out either for the moment.

In your first video you can clearly see the MIL/CEL/SEL on the DIC. Someone in the video said it looked you had a code. So ....

In another of your videos, when you get close to the Knock sensor it gets louder, I would see if it is giving you issues.

I cannot really tell, but in another video you pull the dipstick out and focus on the vacuum regulator. Have you installed the fix kit yet? If not, read this:

2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

And lastly, have you ran the fuel down to nothing in the tank? If so you may have some crap in the filter. The fuel pump will need to be replaced in order to replace the filter though.

 

[gid58]

2012 Chevy Cruze Automatic Dies Randomly. Recently, the car was idling hard and I replaced the head cover and the spark plugs. Car ran fine for about a 3 weeks and now it will die randomly. When running it idles fine and the check engine light is not on at all. Sometimes you can drive for miles and it will be find and then others you can drive it for a few minutes and it will just shut off. When the head cover was changed, I made sure to buy the OEM model and torqued it to specs and also changed the spark plugs to OEM, pregapped to specs. No apparent air leaks or oil leaks anywhere. My thoughts are that it could be the fuel pump going out? It seems to happen most often when idleing and then hitting the gas to go, it cuts off. Currently waiting on a device ordered to tell me any error codes. I checked the fuses and they all seem to be fine. Battery cables are connected and no issues. (have new ground cable.) The car will eventually start after about 20-30 minutes of waiting but it doing this only 2doesn't appear to be overheating or happen after its been driven a while. also swapped out the air filter recently. Any ideas?

Video of the issue:

2011 1.4 Turbo, I have the same Identical problem I have 130K miles and it started doing this only 2 months ago. Same valve cover, intake, I just installed new plugs, same problem, no codes...I stop at a red light and once in a while it will idle rough or stall. Most of the time no problem....WTF? HELP !

 

[kend]

In your first video you can clearly see the MIL/CEL/SEL on the DIC. Someone in the video said it looked you had a code. So ....

In another of your videos, when you get close to the Knock sensor it gets louder, I would see if it is giving you issues.

I cannot really tell, but in another video you pull the dipstick out and focus on the vacuum regulator. Have you installed the fix kit yet? If not, read this:

2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

And lastly, have you ran the fuel down to nothing in the tank? If so you may have some crap in the filter. The fuel pump will need to be replaced in order to replace the filter though.

I changed the valve cover already because I did have the issue with the broken rubber piece in the cover. I was getting radio flashes and other errors coming up with a check engine light. Basically it was rough idling and sometimes would stall but would start right back up. After I swapped the valve cover with a new one and new spark plugs (both OEM) the issue was resolved. I made sure that I torqued the bolts in order and to spec and also the spark plugs No more rough idle, no sound coming from the top and it ran great for about 3 weeks so I threw away the old parts. It was sucking air without the dipstick pulled out originally. After doing some research to only issue I could find was someone was pulling the dipstick and it cause the belts to squeak due to a leak somewhere else. Thankfully, I don't have that issue.Suddenly the car would start dying randomly. I bought a code reader and it gave me virtually nothing. I had a hood latch code and that was it due to the wire being broken. Sometimes the car would run for a week with no issues and then suddenly die and then not start at all unless I waited. Eventually it would start. The fuel I buy is 93 grade and I have ran a few tanks through it with no issue. It could be fuel pump as I have suspected, and it could also be electrical but there are no codes indicating any issues. I changed the negative battery cable and the positive fuse box and cable, the fuel and ignition relays, the valve cover, air filter, and spark plugs.

I took my car to a mechanic and on the way there it drove with no issues, as I got closer to the shop the car started to die, it had a slight jerk like the transmission was not changing but I don't think that was the issue. The car only has about 63k miles on it anyway. So far the mechanic has not been able to resolve the issue either. They tried "a couple" things and it drove fine for a week but then started dying again. They suspect electrical as well but I'm not sure. Either way, I want to update the forum when they have figured it out. I suspect a possible fuel pump issue as well honestly, as the jerk seemed like maybe something was clogged? Either way with the virus going on and the fact that I am in Europe it is hard to get parts here at the moment so it may take some time. Thanks for the reply though.

 

[gid58]

2011 1.4 Turbo, I have the same Identical problem I have 130K miles and it started doing this only 2 months ago. Same valve cover, intake, I just installed new plugs, same problem, no codes...I stop at a red light and once in a while it will idle rough or stall. Most of the time no problem....WTF? HELP !

Replying to myself since no one wants to help....IMHO I think its a fuel delivery problem, either pressure or volume after a stop...? Anyone?

 

[Blasirl]

I changed the valve cover already because I did have the issue with the broken rubber piece in the cover. I was getting radio flashes and other errors coming up with a check engine light. Basically it was rough idling and sometimes would stall but would start right back up. After I swapped the valve cover with a new one and new spark plugs (both OEM) the issue was resolved. I made sure that I torqued the bolts in order and to spec and also the spark plugs No more rough idle, no sound coming from the top and it ran great for about 3 weeks so I threw away the old parts. It was sucking air without the dipstick pulled out originally. After doing some research to only issue I could find was someone was pulling the dipstick and it cause the belts to squeak due to a leak somewhere else. Thankfully, I don't have that issue.Suddenly the car would start dying randomly. I bought a code reader and it gave me virtually nothing. I had a hood latch code and that was it due to the wire being broken. Sometimes the car would run for a week with no issues and then suddenly die and then not start at all unless I waited. Eventually it would start. The fuel I buy is 93 grade and I have ran a few tanks through it with no issue. It could be fuel pump as I have suspected, and it could also be electrical but there are no codes indicating any issues. I changed the negative battery cable and the positive fuse box and cable, the fuel and ignition relays, the valve cover, air filter, and spark plugs.

I took my car to a mechanic and on the way there it drove with no issues, as I got closer to the shop the car started to die, it had a slight jerk like the transmission was not changing but I don't think that was the issue. The car only has about 63k miles on it anyway. So far the mechanic has not been able to resolve the issue either. They tried "a couple" things and it drove fine for a week but then started dying again. They suspect electrical as well but I'm not sure. Either way, I want to update the forum when they have figured it out. I suspect a possible fuel pump issue as well honestly, as the jerk seemed like maybe something was clogged? Either way with the virus going on and the fact that I am in Europe it is hard to get parts here at the moment so it may take some time. Thanks for the reply though.

The valve cover and the squeaking are both symptoms. You have not addressed the problem yet. The Intake PCV valve is probably still the issue. When that valve disappears, it over pressurizes the system eventually causing the vacuum regulator on the valve cover to blow, also causes numerous oil leaks such as the valve cover or CPASV seals, and the front crank seal eventually will go, especially after replacing the blown valve cover with a new one that has yet to be stressed.

This all is not a foregone conclusion, but it is a major factor in many peoples issues with the Cruze. Read through the post in #22 above and all it's associated links. It is worth your time. I would spend the small amount of money on a fix kit or try to piece one together before I would start throwing money at the wrong issues.

Peace Out.

 

[kend]

Replying to myself since no one wants to help....IMHO I think its a fuel delivery problem, either pressure or volume after a stop...? Anyone?

You are not being ignored. I'm not sure what the problem is if it is the same problem as you stated. I can't really help if I don't know the answer either.

 

[kend]

The valve cover and the squeaking are both symptoms. You have not addressed the problem yet. The Intake PCV valve is probably still the issue. When that valve disappears, it over pressurizes the system eventually causing the vacuum regulator on the valve cover to blow, also causes numerous oil leaks such as the valve cover or CPASV seals, and the front crank seal eventually will go, especially after replacing the blown valve cover with a new one that has yet to be stressed.

This all is not a foregone conclusion, but it is a major factor in many peoples issues with the Cruze. Read through the post in #22 above and all it's associated links. It is worth your time. I would spend the small amount of money on a fix kit or try to piece one together before I would start throwing money at the wrong issues.

Peace Out.

Thanks,
I believe you are talking about the little nipple-like seal inside the PCV pipe / intake manifold. I checked and I couldn't see it in there because it was very dirty. I assumed that perhaps it was clogged. I did a lot of research for weeks and couldn't figure it out. I'll check and read up on it again and see if there is something I missed. I'll also mention it to the mechanic that its at now and see if they can come up with something. I just got tired of working on it honestly. Now I'll wait to see what comes out of it share the info here.

 

[kend]

Ok, so I finally received my Coil Pack in the mail after 3 months of waiting (due to the virus). I've been driving the car for nearly 2 months with no issues. The mechanic had it and had thought it was the camshaft position sensor and didn't have the tools to test it and apparently couldn't get one easily at the time. I also ordered and received the intake manifold and will have it changed later but it appears that the coil pack was the issue with the car stopping randomly.

 

[Blasirl]

Ok, so I finally received my Coil Pack in the mail after 3 months of waiting (due to the virus). I've been driving the car for nearly 2 months with no issues. The mechanic had it and had thought it was the camshaft position sensor and didn't have the tools to test it and apparently couldn't get one easily at the time. I also ordered and received the intake manifold and will have it changed later but it appears that the coil pack was the issue with the car stopping randomly.

It would have been cheaper to order the fix kit and fix the manifold you have, but at least you have figured out what was wrong. Be aware the new manifold could also end up failing as well. Try and remember the symptoms. I reread the posts and see that you are not familiar with gapping the plugs. They are very easy to ruin the tips/electrodes.

Tips to ensure no misfires occur:

Remove the coil pack. If the boots are stuck on, use a small screwdriver or pick with some dielectric grease on it to go around the outside of the boot and then possibly the inside of the boot to help aid in removal.

Remember to (p)re-gap your plugs to .028, (0.24 if tuned)

Set gap with the black portion of this tool.

To increase the gap size bend the ground strap up to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN.

Measure the gap with feeler gauges.

Throw this away.

Torque to 18 ft-lbs with no anti-seize on the threads of a stock type plug.

Ensure the boots have no rips/tears or holes in them, lightly coat them with dielectric/silicone grease and make sure the resister springs are clean and not caught up in the boots when you install them.

If the plugs look bad, consider these:

-BKR8EIX-2668 (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
-BKR7E-4644 (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.

Read Hesitation Gone! for more info on the plugs.

 

[stormtrooper15]

When did the tuned gap suggestion go from .30 to .24? I've been running the .30 on the coppers for 3yrs(only 5k mi though, not driven very much at all). Its also been some time since I've been on here..

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Ma v e n]

When did the tuned gap suggestion go from .30 to .24? I've been running the .30 on the coppers for 3yrs(only 5k mi though, not driven very much at all). Its also been some time since I've been on here..

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I don't know that it ever did....factory spec is .028" usually anything higher causes issues. Hard to believe a tuned car is happy at thirty thou.

 

[stormtrooper15]

I don't know that it ever did....factory spec is .028" usually anything higher causes issues. Hard to believe a tuned car is happy at thirty thou.

In the hesitation gone thread it's mentioned numerous times, as well as other posts. Granted it's been about 3yrs and I can't remember where all it's been brought up/I've seen it. However, I did order the fr7bhxs mentioned and when those arrive I'll gap them to .024. But I might just pull the coppers and drop their gap to see what it does thanks for the post. It might explain for what feels like a "flat" spot upon a quick throttle... fwiw it's a '15 ltz w Trifecta elite tune, Forge Motorsports bypass valve and wastegate actuator, Injen CAI, MSD coilpack, resonator delete and a bunch of non power related upgrades and only use 91-93 octane... but it's an automatic

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Blasirl]

The OP of Hesitation Gone told me that a tuned engine should be gapped to .024. When I install my tune in the coming weeks, I'll be doing the same.

 

[stormtrooper15]

The OP of Hesitation Gone told me that a tuned engine should be gapped to .024. When I install my tune in the coming weeks, I'll be doing the same.

Good to know thanks man

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[stormtrooper15]

The OP of Hesitation Gone told me that a tuned engine should be gapped to .024. When I install my tune in the coming weeks, I'll be doing the same.

Welp, after this new to me info and the NGK Ruthenium spark plugs it's an actually noticed difference. So thanks Blasirl

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Blasirl]

Welp, after this new to me info and the NGK Ruthenium spark plugs it's an actually noticed difference. So thanks Blasirl

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk

Just an update on the gap, Trifecta suggests .025

 

[stormtrooper15]

Just an update on the gap, Trifecta suggests .025

Thanks for the updated info, idk if I'll bother to pull em for a .001 difference tho. Def an improvement over the. 032 that's for **** sure

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Robert18]

I changed the valve cover already because I did have the issue with the broken rubber piece in the cover. I was getting radio flashes and other errors coming up with a check engine light. Basically it was rough idling and sometimes would stall but would start right back up. After I swapped the valve cover with a new one and new spark plugs (both OEM) the issue was resolved. I made sure that I torqued the bolts in order and to spec and also the spark plugs No more rough idle, no sound coming from the top and it ran great for about 3 weeks so I threw away the old parts. It was sucking air without the dipstick pulled out originally. After doing some research to only issue I could find was someone was pulling the dipstick and it cause the belts to squeak due to a leak somewhere else. Thankfully, I don't have that issue.Suddenly the car would start dying randomly. I bought a code reader and it gave me virtually nothing. I had a hood latch code and that was it due to the wire being broken. Sometimes the car would run for a week with no issues and then suddenly die and then not start at all unless I waited. Eventually it would start. The fuel I buy is 93 grade and I have ran a few tanks through it with no issue. It could be fuel pump as I have suspected, and it could also be electrical but there are no codes indicating any issues. I changed the negative battery cable and the positive fuse box and cable, the fuel and ignition relays, the valve cover, air filter, and spark plugs.

I took my car to a mechanic and on the way there it drove with no issues, as I got closer to the shop the car started to die, it had a slight jerk like the transmission was not changing but I don't think that was the issue. The car only has about 63k miles on it anyway. So far the mechanic has not been able to resolve the issue either. They tried "a couple" things and it drove fine for a week but then started dying again. They suspect electrical as well but I'm not sure. Either way, I want to update the forum when they have figured it out. I suspect a possible fuel pump issue as well honestly, as the jerk seemed like maybe something was clogged? Either way with the virus going on and the fact that I am in Europe it is hard to get parts here at the moment so it may take some time. Thanks for the reply though.

I am having the same issue 2014. I changed the purge vapor canister and I drove over 300 miles no problem yet.

 

[Blasirl]

I am having the same issue 2014. I changed the purge vapor canister and I drove over 300 miles no problem yet.

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