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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2014 Cruze LS. I recently installed an amplifier and a sub-woofer. For the amplifier, I tapped into 8 speaker wires located right next to the hood release handle on the front driver's side.
I'm not 100% sure, but I think my car stopped starting sometime soon after that. I'll post a picture of where I cut the wires. I noticed that I accidentally cut the wrong blue/brown wire, so right now there is a wire that isn't hooked up but I'm not sure that it would cause the entire car not to start as a result. Instead of a thick brown/blue, I accidentally cut a thin brown/blue wire that goes directly to the thing to the left of the hood release as seen in the photo.

Could someone tell me if this brown/blue wire might cause the entire car not to start? I already tried jump starting twice, and charged my battery overnight. When I stick the key in the ignition I get lights, but when I go to start the car I lose all power. Should I try to get a new battery? Is my starter bad? I realize now I should've just had a professional install this audio system, but it's too late for that.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you're losing all power that sounds like a dead short. Think you nicked another wire during install?
That's what I'm worried about. It's possible I nicked something when I put a hole in the grommet going through the firewall. Here is a picture of the grommet, located right next to the brake pedal:


How would I check to see if a wire got cut on accident through that grommet?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
It's worth mentioning that I had a hole in that grommet already before I installed the amp, and I drove my car for several days with no issues. The problem only happened after I cut the speaker wires. Should I try to hook up that brown/blue wire and see if it helps? I can't seem to find any wiring diagrams online that would include it.
 

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If it worked fine for a few days maybe we should treat this as a normal no start issue. you have a voltmeter?

None of the wiring from the first picture will prevent starting. There may be some wiring behind the brake pedal that could cause no start if cut but I’d have to take a look later today.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If it worked fine for a few days maybe we should treat this as a normal no start issue. you have a voltmeter?

None of the wiring from the first picture will prevent starting. There may be some wiring behind the brake pedal that could cause no start if cut but I’d have to take a look later today.
I don't have a voltmeter. Would might it be if I get no engine cranking or clicking when I start the car and lose all power? My battery is probably fine. It went down to 11.8V and I charged it back up to 12.6 last night. Didn't make a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
If I did end up cutting a wire inside the grommet, is it possible to remove the grommet and repair the wire? What could I do to definitively determine whether there's an issue with the wire between the dash and the engine compartment?
 

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What could I do to definitively determine whether there's an issue with the wire between the dash and the engine compartment?
I would start by tracing the wire you cut, the blue/brown one. Trace it until you find its source or destination, then you can look for the applicable drawing so that you can understand why things are not working correctly. Alternatively, repair that wire and see if the problem goes away.

For sure, I would start with the blue/brown wire and drill down there. If you still have the problems after repairing it, then you can investigate the grommet.

Doug

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😂 I know Doug would show up eventually.

yeah the wire could most likely be repaired just need to find it and splice it. also just like Doug said, Finding the end point of the wire means we can get a wiring schematic for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I would start by tracing the wire you cut, the blue/brown one. Trace it until you find its source or destination, then you can look for the applicable drawing so that you can understand why things are not working correctly. Alternatively, repair that wire and see if the problem goes away.

For sure, I would start with the blue/brown wire and drill down there. If you still have the problems after repairing it, then you can investigate the grommet.

Doug

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I repaired the brown/blue wire. No dice. I've diagnosed so far that the Fuel Pump Flow Control Module is fried. Would this cause my vehicle to act the way it currently is?
 

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I repaired the brown/blue wire. No dice. I've diagnosed so far that the Fuel Pump Flow Control Module is fried. Would this cause my vehicle to act the way it currently is?
I can’t confirm this but it seems like the fuel pump can be commanded by the control module. How did you determine the module is bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I would start by tracing the wire you cut, the blue/brown one. Trace it until you find its source or destination, then you can look for the applicable drawing so that you can understand why things are not working correctly. Alternatively, repair that wire and see if the problem goes away.

For sure, I would start with the blue/brown wire and drill down there. If you still have the problems after repairing it, then you can investigate the grommet.

Doug

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I can’t confirm this but it seems like the fuel pump can be commanded by the control module. How did you determine the module is bad?
No signal coming from the module. Is it correct to assume most of the modules in the car are linked with each other and if the fuel pump control module is dead then the rest of the modules connected to it are also not functioning? Do you know the basic path from the ignition switch to the starter? I feel like a dead fuel control module wouldn't cause my symptoms, but I could be wrong. There is no click or turnover from the starter. Possibly a bad solenoid?
 

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No signal coming from the module. Is it correct to assume most of the modules in the car are linked with each other and if the fuel pump control module is dead then the rest of the modules connected to it are also not functioning? Do you know the basic path from the ignition switch to the starter? I feel like a dead fuel control module wouldn't cause my symptoms, but I could be wrong. There is no click or turnover from the starter. Possibly a bad solenoid?
My overall understanding of your situation is that you installed an amp and subwoofer, and a few days later, your Cruze would not start, with a few successful starts inbetween. Sounds like you may have a short in the area(s) that you did some clipping, or coincidentally, you have a start issue.

Bad Solenoid?:
Get a buddy to help you, but my dad and I use to bypass the solenoid with a jumper cable, directly from the battery to the starter. If it kicks/starts, it's a bad solenoid.
 
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