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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello

I am having difficulties with my 2014 Diesel Cruze, just under 47000 miles. Purchased in May 2013, I am the original owner. I have taken my car in at least 4 times recently for problems. I just got a ScanGaugeII with the Cruze Diesel Special Firmware to see if I could see what is going on.

#1 CEL comes on and P2002 is the error code. This has happened as soon as 1 day after taking in to service. When I've taken it in they have done a manual regen and then say it is fine. I think they may have updated the software during one of the visits. I got a ScanGuageII and have been watching the gauges. The last regen happened at about 200 miles, I am at about 150 from my last regen. I am watching the gauges to see if MAP drops below 14, so far I have not seen that, I am watching STM (DPF Soot in Grams), it hasn't gone over 22) RGEN to see the status of the Regens, DSR Distance from last Regen and MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) has not been below 14. I just checked and my tail pipe is full of soot. Any ideas from you guys would be greatly appreciated. Is there something else I should watch with the ScanGaugeII. I am going to ask them to clear out the soot from the exhaust in addition to what ever they have done. I don't know if the DPF or catalytic converter is a problem. Being in California, Smog testing is required bi-annually to renew the auto license. I did pass last May when I renewed, not sure if it would pass now.

#2 I also have a problem that will not reproduce itself for the mechanic. The Advisor was in the car when it did it slightly once. Anyone who has been in my car when it does this agrees is a problem and something is not right, especially my husband. I have attached 2 video links that show it happening. From a Stop, if I take my foot off the brake (before hitting the gas) the car Bump/Jumps/Clunks. Any ideas on what is happening? Here are videos:

https://youtu.be/ZeOY5bN7mRQ


https://youtu.be/qugmCseJ-aI

I was told the problem was raised with Detroit, not sure if both problems or only one of them. I will be taking it in to the dealer next week, and find out more. This is getting expensive to troubleshoot as each time I need a rental car as they have no diagnosed problems to give me a loaner. This is making me want to go back to Honda. I had my old car for 14 years 215K miles and had no service issues other than standard maintenance, absolutely none!! I've probably had the CEL come on at least `10 times. I was planning on keeping this car for a minimum of 10 years, not sure if that is realistic as I need a car that is safe and reliable.

Thank for any assistance or ideas.
CruzeLady 2014 Diesel Cruze

Sure glad I got extended the extended warranty 5 yr/100000 or I would be more bummed than I already am.
 

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Hello

I am having difficulties with my 2014 Diesel Cruze, just under 47000 miles. Purchased in May 2013, I am the original owner. I have taken my car in at least 4 times recently for problems. I just got a ScanGaugeII with the Cruze Diesel Special Firmware to see if I could see what is going on.

#1 CEL comes on and P2002 is the error code. This has happened as soon as 1 day after taking in to service. When I've taken it in they have done a manual regen and then say it is fine. I think they may have updated the software during one of the visits. I got a ScanGuageII and have been watching the gauges. The last regen happened at about 200 miles, I am at about 150 from my last regen. I am watching the gauges to see if MAP drops below 14, so far I have not seen that, I am watching STM (DPF Soot in Grams), it hasn't gone over 22) RGEN to see the status of the Regens, DSR Distance from last Regen and MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) has not been below 14. I just checked and my tail pipe is full of soot. Any ideas from you guys would be greatly appreciated. Is there something else I should watch with the ScanGaugeII. I am going to ask them to clear out the soot from the exhaust in addition to what ever they have done. I don't know if the DPF or catalytic converter is a problem. Being in California, Smog testing is required bi-annually to renew the auto license. I did pass last May when I renewed, not sure if it would pass now.

#2 I also have a problem that will not reproduce itself for the mechanic. The Advisor was in the car when it did it slightly once. Anyone who has been in my car when it does this agrees is a problem and something is not right, especially my husband. I have attached 2 video links that show it happening. From a Stop, if I take my foot off the brake (before hitting the gas) the car Bump/Jumps/Clunks. Any ideas on what is happening? Here are videos:

https://youtu.be/ZeOY5bN7mRQ


https://youtu.be/qugmCseJ-aI

I was told the problem was raised with Detroit, not sure if both problems or only one of them. I will be taking it in to the dealer next week, and find out more. This is getting expensive to troubleshoot as each time I need a rental car as they have no diagnosed problems to give me a loaner. This is making me want to go back to Honda. I had my old car for 14 years 215K miles and had no service issues other than standard maintenance, absolutely none!! I've probably had the CEL come on at least `10 times. I was planning on keeping this car for a minimum of 10 years, not sure if that is realistic as I need a car that is safe and reliable.

Thank for any assistance or ideas.
CruzeLady 2014 Diesel Cruze

Sure glad I got extended the extended warranty 5 yr/100000 or I would be more bummed than I already am.
Ok, where to start. P2002. I
My first Cruze Diesel threw that code in the first week... And it was a bad DPF. Ask your serving dealership to do a full thottle test... If you get smoke out the tail pipe, you have a damaged DPF.. and the do NOT want to eat the cost to replace it, they are generally over $1000 sometimes closer to $2000. If you have soot in your tail pipe.. that is another sign. What is your driving profile, if it's considerable city stop and go.. the emmisions systems on these cars just don't do well with with that type of driving..

Now the clunck is a transmission problem. These cars go into free wheel ( Engine disconnected from Transmission via electronic clutch when you come to a stop, this is a fuel saving feature, it avoids waste of churning fluid in the torque converter. In your case it's disengaging harshly.. one thing to consider, are you running original Transmission Fluid? The service interval would have you believe it is a lifetime fill, that is BS. I changed my high mileage car shortly after I got it, about 43k miles and it was some seriously worn out black fluid that looked awful. New fluid GREATLY improved shift behavior. There is an excellent write up in the How to section of the gen 1 Diesel section of this forum. I'd start there and if it still has issues, it's something more serious, and that warranty should cover, in fact I think the standard power train warranty is still active for you. Good luck and post updates as you work to resolve this.

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Lots of soot tells me bad DPF and perhaps a dirty Throttle Body and EGR. Both or all should be cleaned. Brake cleaner or carb cleaner on throttle body and EGR should get rid of the soot issues.
 
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Hello

I am having difficulties with my 2014 Diesel Cruze, just under 47000 miles. Purchased in May 2013, I am the original owner. I have taken my car in at least 4 times recently for problems. I just got a ScanGaugeII with the Cruze Diesel Special Firmware to see if I could see what is going on.


#2 I also have a problem that will not reproduce itself for the mechanic. The Advisor was in the car when it did it slightly once. Anyone who has been in my car when it does this agrees is a problem and something is not right, especially my husband. I have attached 2 video links that show it happening. From a Stop, if I take my foot off the brake (before hitting the gas) the car Bump/Jumps/Clunks. Any ideas on what is happening? Here are videos:

https://youtu.be/ZeOY5bN7mRQ


https://youtu.be/qugmCseJ-aI

.
I have the same problem with the jolt when starting out from a stop. It only happens when the transmission is hot. It has been doing it since about 40k miles (I now have 80k). The dealer does not seem to care since there is no CEL and they cannot duplicate it. If I think it is going to happen I slowly take my foot off the brake without stepping on the accelerator and when I feel the slight bump I know it is engaged and then I accelerate. The problem has not gotten worse with time and seems to be doing it much less now. Let us know if they find out the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the ideas, I do more city than highway driving now, tho I am trying to get a good highway drive in several times a week. Usually I am to my destinations in less than 1/2 hour, and traffic here in San Diego can be awful, so even tho I am on a freeway it is stop and go. I will try to get them to do the Full Throttle test and get them to replace the transmission fluid. I did notice that when I used the manual shift right after I had a Bump/Jump/Clunk it did not happen. It is so annoying that it is intermittent. I can go several days without it happening, then the next time it will do it with every stop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I don't feel so bad that someone else is having the problem of them not being able to duplicate. I may take a long run out of town on the highway before my next visit. One trip to the dealier, they said they could not get it to duplicate, the mechanic took the car out for 45 mins. I got the car back, spent about 15 mins in the freeway, at the first stop it bummped..... argh... I will post what they find out if they ever figure it out.
I have the same problem with the jolt when starting out from a stop. It only happens when the transmission is hot. It has been doing it since about 40k miles (I now have 80k). The dealer does not seem to care since there is no CEL and they cannot duplicate it. If I think it is going to happen I slowly take my foot off the brake without stepping on the accelerator and when I feel the slight bump I know it is engaged and then I accelerate. The problem has not gotten worse with time and seems to be doing it much less now. Let us know if they find out the cause.
 

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Well I don't feel so bad that someone else is having the problem of them not being able to duplicate. I may take a long run out of town on the highway before my next visit. One trip to the dealier, they said they could not get it to duplicate, the mechanic took the car out for 45 mins. I got the car back, spent about 15 mins in the freeway, at the first stop it bummped..... argh... I will post what they find out if they ever figure it out.
Before you go for that long drive be sure to have the transmission fluid service done as @MRO1791 suggested. It is NOT a lifetime fill as stated in the owners manual.
 
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I have the same problem with the jolt when starting out from a stop. It only happens when the transmission is hot. It has been doing it since about 40k miles (I now have 80k). The dealer does not seem to care since there is no CEL and they cannot duplicate it. If I think it is going to happen I slowly take my foot off the brake without stepping on the accelerator and when I feel the slight bump I know it is engaged and then I accelerate. The problem has not gotten worse with time and seems to be doing it much less now. Let us know if they find out the cause.
Do you have the original fluid at 80k? If so you'll want to change it ASAP. Mine looked awful at 43k, and it is MUCH improved with now with new fluid.

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Do you have the original fluid at 80k? If so you'll want to change it ASAP. Mine looked awful at 43k, and it is MUCH improved with now with new fluid.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Which fluid did you use? I am at 45k miles and mine needs changed. Thx
 

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I went with Amsoil Fuel Efficient Synthetic ATF and did the 3x change recommended by @XtremeRevolution.
 

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Which fluid did you use? I am at 45k miles and mine needs changed. Thx
I went with the recommended Amsoil, for this Transmission that happens to also be about the cheapest you'll find. You need the 2.5 Gallon. Some gets wasted, it takes a double drain and fill.

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Do you have the original fluid at 80k? If so you'll want to change it ASAP. Mine looked awful at 43k, and it is MUCH improved with now with new fluid.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
I had the transmission serviced (fluid change) at the dealer at about 60k, however, it didn't make any difference.
One suggestion someone had was to check the brake position sensor, and others have said another said it could make a difference if you brake with the left foot or right. It doesn't matter. If you shift to manual the transmission will engage so there will not be the bump.
 

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I went with the recommended Amsoil, for this Transmission that happens to also be about the cheapest you'll find. You need the 2.5 Gallon. Some gets wasted, it takes a double drain and fill.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
recommended, lol
 

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I had the transmission serviced (fluid change) at the dealer at about 60k, however, it didn't make any difference.
One suggestion someone had was to check the brake position sensor, and others have said another said it could make a difference if you brake with the left foot or right. It doesn't matter. If you shift to manual the transmission will engage so there will not be the bump.
I'm always skeptical of any service performed by dealerships... I've had some pretty shoddy work done at several (hence I do all my out of warranty work, and check over any work they do very closely).. it's hard to know if that is part of your issue. I can say my transmission shift performance across the board was significantly improved with a fluid change at 45 K or so, and at that milage the fluid had already gone too far (darker than worn engine oil), I'm considering changing the fluid I'm my other car at about 36k. If you went to 60k.. I'd be concerned that some wear may be part of the issue.

Now if anyone is braking with the left foot.. that is just WRONG on many levels. So I tried that, and guess what? Big shudder and bump as the transmission kicked in.. so that IS a possible cause (theory to practice verified).. Don't brake with the left foot, unless you only have a left foot and also switch that same foot to the accelerator. That delay is what is intended to get the transmission out of free wheel (engagement of torque converter) while the engine is at idle RPM (about 820 RPM).

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok, I'll just take it to the dealer and forget the long ride. Is changing the trans fluid a maintenance thing, or should it be a warranty item?
Before you go for that long drive be sure to have the transmission fluid service done as @MRO1791 suggested. It is NOT a lifetime fill as stated in the owners manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, I am not braking with the left foot, so that is not my problem. The bump happens as I lift my foot off the brake, but before I have put my foot on the accelerator. The Bump has only been happening since July, it is not something that always happened. I probably was at about 43000 miles when it started, I will definitely get the fluid changed.
I'm always skeptical of any service performed by dealerships... I've had some pretty shoddy work done at several (hence I do all my out of warranty work, and check over any work they do very closely).. it's hard to know if that is part of your issue. I can say my transmission shift performance across the board was significantly improved with a fluid change at 45 K or so, and at that milage the fluid had already gone too far (darker than worn engine oil), I'm considering changing the fluid I'm my other car at about 36k. If you went to 60k.. I'd be concerned that some wear may be part of the issue.

Now if anyone is braking with the left foot.. that is just WRONG on many levels. So I tried that, and guess what? Big shudder and bump as the transmission kicked in.. so that IS a possible cause (theory to practice verified).. Don't brake with the left foot, unless you only have a left foot and also switch that same foot to the accelerator. That delay is what is intended to get the transmission out of free wheel (engagement of torque converter) while the engine is at idle RPM (about 820 RPM).

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
HI Rivergoer, Thanks for the info on the fluid change What do you mean by 3X Change?? I am totally clueless about autos so sadly I rely on the dealer to do the right thing, so far they have been very good and I have been satisfied. I have another year+ or warranty so I am getting my work done at the dealer. I will be looking for a good diesel mechanic when that is finished unless I decide to get another car. ITH
I went with Amsoil Fuel Efficient Synthetic ATF and did the 3x change recommended by @XtremeRevolution.
 

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HI Rivergoer, Thanks for the info on the fluid change What do you mean by 3X Change?? I am totally clueless about autos so sadly I rely on the dealer to do the right thing, so far they have been very good and I have been satisfied. I have another year+ or warranty so I am getting my work done at the dealer. I will be looking for a good diesel mechanic when that is finished unless I decide to get another car. ITH
open the drain plug of the trans

itll stop draining at some point, but the design of the transmission, there is still ALOT of fluid in there, unlike engine oil change, where it all or 99% comes out

so for this transmission, you drain, fill, drive a bit, drain, fill, drive a bit, drain, fill....youve essentially changed MOST of the fluid....you could keep goin and do more, but the amount of OLD fluid you get on subsequent drains isnt worth the $$$ of the new fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks...
open the drain plug of the trans

itll stop draining at some point, but the design of the transmission, there is still ALOT of fluid in there, unlike engine oil change, where it all or 99% comes out

so for this transmission, you drain, fill, drive a bit, drain, fill, drive a bit, drain, fill....youve essentially changed MOST of the fluid....you could keep goin and do more, but the amount of OLD fluid you get on subsequent drains isnt worth the $$$ of the new fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The dealer has ordered the repair parts for the P2002 Emission issue. They worked with the Chevy Engineers and did the full throttle test. They are replacing both the Catalytic Converter and the DPF. While in the shop I'm having the transmission fluid changed. I've asked them to give me a sample of the fluid they removed, I am assuming when new the fluid is pinkish?? The Cat and DPF repair are covered under warranty, whew! Thanks for all the ideas!!
 
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