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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2013 2LT 40,000 miles


So today decided to put a new stock intake filter in. Just stock fram. im driving home and i notice this orange light on..im guessing thats the check engine light correct? Now why would this come on after simply changing out the filter. I was very gentle not to disturb wire that is connected to lid. Car still seemed to drive fine. I checked the oil cap and gas cap to make sure they were on tight as well as ive heard that can make it pop on. Any help would be much appreciated... Is there a way to get a diaagnostic for free? i know pep boys used to do them free i think
 

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Yes, some parts places will pull the codes for free. Without the code numbers, we're just guessing.
 

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If you subscribe to OnStar you can push the button and they will tell you what the code is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Just so weird it comes on right after i change the filter..Now that its breathing correctly it thinks something is wrong. Thanks for the tip i may try the on star had an email for 2 years free but cant find it.
 

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Pull the filter out and reseat it. Then make sure the cover is on tight. It's possible the filter didn't drop in quite right and it's blocking the air flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pull the filter out and reseat it. Then make sure the cover is on tight. It's possible the filter didn't drop in quite right and it's blocking the air flow.
Hey Ober thanks.. tried to reseat after work unfortunately no change. Im gonna go by autozone and see if they can pull code for me this weekend.
 

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I know you said you didn't disconnect the MAF sensor, but I found that connection very picky and you could have pulled on it enough for it to making an intermittent connection. I would pull the clip back press the button and unplug the MAF and re-seat it to make sure its connected fully. I replaced the air filter in my cruze 3-4 times, and twice I got the loud engine fan and CEL because even though that wire clicked into place, it wasn't seated all the way in.
 

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I don't fully comprehend the logic behind this either, have type A codes that once set, stay set, even after the problem was solved, leaving out the dip stick or evaporative emissions codes are this way. Type B codes would reset themselves once the problem was cured.

With On Board Diagnostics, or OBD I that died in model year 1995, didn't even need a scanner, but all manufactures used that own type of diagnostic connector. But didn't even need a scanner, a paper clip wire would do, but you needed a shop manual to identify the code and which pins to jumper to read it. Vehicles like my 88 Supra or 92 DeVille would digitally display the codes, but you had to know which buttons or pedals to press to display them. Others, had to count pulses by looking at the check engine lamp. And the codes could even be reset without a scanner.

But all this changed with OBD II starting in the 1996 models and this BS has been going on for twenty years now. The EPA did standardized the diagnostic connector and some of the emission codes, But a second or even a half a dozen more computers were added that also can generate codes, and for each manufacture, they are all different.

The fact of the matter is, these codes are stored in the vehicle in flashram, but they are not displayed, need a way overpriced scanner to do this. Circuitry wise, this would add about two bucks to the cost of the vehicle.

To further complicate matters, and kick me off this board if you want to, but telling it the way it is, GM has been extra nasty on this matter by translating a good number of codes that only can be read with a GM Tech II scanner. If read with a much cheaper generic scanner, will get a code that is not even in the book!

But knowing the exact code is worthless without a shop manual, if laying out 200 bucks for a shop manual isn't bad enough, the new price is 375 bucks! They want you to go to your dealer, found one decent one that would read the codes, make sure you have a pencil and a paper and look over the shoulder and write them down for 30 bucks.

Or as suggested, scribe to OnStar, but still need the shop manual to decipher what this code stands for, something like over 400 different codes. And you really don't know if your oil cap is loose or if your engine is going to become toast.

If everybody knew what was going on, we would leave them in the showrooms until they let us know what's wrong with our vehicles.

Reminds me of that space odyssey movie with HAL, that crazy computer, but HAL stands for Heart Attack Lamp in this case.
 

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Oh, when I purchased my 1992 DeVille, purchased a small code book that fit right into the glove compartment, that told me exactly what that code meant. A lot has changed since then.

Did get an ERG code, very dangerous to the engine and was 50 miles from home. Could display the tach speed on this car and already knew the EGR does not kick in until 1,700 RPM, so just drove home keeping the tach below that speed. Replaced the EGR valve with no engine problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I know you said you didn't disconnect the MAF sensor, but I found that connection very picky and you could have pulled on it enough for it to making an intermittent connection. I would pull the clip back press the button and unplug the MAF and re-seat it to make sure its connected fully. I replaced the air filter in my cruze 3-4 times, and twice I got the loud engine fan and CEL because even though that wire clicked into place, it wasn't seated all the way in.
When i reseated it i thought about that plug somehow getting loose so i flicked it a couple times and pressed it back together to make sure of contact. But never disconnnected it. After your advice i went back and fully dissconnected the plug blew in both ends and plugged back in and snapped clip. Got it car check engine light still on. Went to walmart and when i got back in my car this time no check engine light!!! Thanks Spaced! what a relief!
 
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