First, check to ensure there is exactly one o-ring on the oil cap. Two o-rings will trigger these codes. It's also possible the PCV valve has failed, which would be a power train item (assuming the car is less than five years old).
Check Engine, P1101, P0171, Traction Contol
Hello all! There are some other threads that partially deal with the issues I am having, but none seem to be an exact match, so here I am.
2011 Cruze Eco 6 speed. I bought it 3 years or so ago as Certified PreOwned. Currently 74k miles.
I developed a coolant leak a few months ago. Traced it to a plastic housing just forward of the coolant reservoir. O.E. only part, and I have a new baby at home, and although I am skilled enough to tackle a job like that, I just don't have the time to, so I took it to the shop across the street from the office to get it fixed. $300. Drove it home, popped the hood to make sure it all look OK, and it did, save for a bit of what looked to be oil on the engine cover. Figured maybe the shop got a bit sloppy, and didn't think much more of it at the time.
Next day the check engine light came on. Went to Advance, got it read, and it kicked out P1101 and P0171. Judging from what I've read, this could be MAF, vacuum leak, or others. But, I also found a thread that said these codes kicked out when the oil cap wasn't properly installed, and that was also accompanied by some oil sputtering out while driving. Once I read that, I popped the hood, and the cap was installed upside down. What I mean by that is that the word Oil and the oil weight were upside down when I read it. Now, the cap looks to be the same no matter which way, so I wouldn't think it would matter, but the fact that there was also fresh oil around the cap led me to believe it wasn't getting a proper seal. I turned the cap around, and drove it home, full expecting the Check Engine Light to go off within a day or 2.
The next day, driving around, the light did not go off and, in fact, the 2 warning related to Stablitrack not working and Traction Control not working kept popping up intermittently. That next trip it was really bad, but since then those have subsided, and I didn't get those warnings at all on my way to the office this morning.
But, the check engine light is still on, and I am pretty sure it's idling rougher than it was, and possible having surges in power when accelerating (although maybe that's normal for my car and I'm just more sensitive to it because of the light on the dash).
So, first question - if I assume that the improper oil cap was the culprit, is there anything I need to do to reset the system, or just reset the light, or should it all return to normal once it's properly sealed? If it should return to normal on it's own, how long should I give it (it's been about 150 miles give or take since I put it back on correctly). If the cap wasn't the issue after all, what's the best first thing to check or replace to see where the issue lies? I'd rather not take it back to a shop - I can do simple to moderate stuff on my own, I just don't know how to diagnose the culprit.
Thanks in advance!
2011 Cruze Eco 6 speed. I bought it 3 years or so ago as Certified PreOwned. Currently 74k miles.
I developed a coolant leak a few months ago. Traced it to a plastic housing just forward of the coolant reservoir. O.E. only part, and I have a new baby at home, and although I am skilled enough to tackle a job like that, I just don't have the time to, so I took it to the shop across the street from the office to get it fixed. $300. Drove it home, popped the hood to make sure it all look OK, and it did, save for a bit of what looked to be oil on the engine cover. Figured maybe the shop got a bit sloppy, and didn't think much more of it at the time.
Next day the check engine light came on. Went to Advance, got it read, and it kicked out P1101 and P0171. Judging from what I've read, this could be MAF, vacuum leak, or others. But, I also found a thread that said these codes kicked out when the oil cap wasn't properly installed, and that was also accompanied by some oil sputtering out while driving. Once I read that, I popped the hood, and the cap was installed upside down. What I mean by that is that the word Oil and the oil weight were upside down when I read it. Now, the cap looks to be the same no matter which way, so I wouldn't think it would matter, but the fact that there was also fresh oil around the cap led me to believe it wasn't getting a proper seal. I turned the cap around, and drove it home, full expecting the Check Engine Light to go off within a day or 2.
The next day, driving around, the light did not go off and, in fact, the 2 warning related to Stablitrack not working and Traction Control not working kept popping up intermittently. That next trip it was really bad, but since then those have subsided, and I didn't get those warnings at all on my way to the office this morning.
But, the check engine light is still on, and I am pretty sure it's idling rougher than it was, and possible having surges in power when accelerating (although maybe that's normal for my car and I'm just more sensitive to it because of the light on the dash).
So, first question - if I assume that the improper oil cap was the culprit, is there anything I need to do to reset the system, or just reset the light, or should it all return to normal once it's properly sealed? If it should return to normal on it's own, how long should I give it (it's been about 150 miles give or take since I put it back on correctly). If the cap wasn't the issue after all, what's the best first thing to check or replace to see where the issue lies? I'd rather not take it back to a shop - I can do simple to moderate stuff on my own, I just don't know how to diagnose the culprit.
Thanks in advance!
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Just one O-Ring, so that's not it. But, when I popped the hood, there was oil around the cap. Now, I am 70-80% certain I gave it a good wipe down when I noticed the cap was upside down, but maybe I didn't. So, I cleaned all around it really well, and after my commute home this afternoon, I will check it again and if there's oil, then there's something wrong with that cap and that may be the whole issue.
The Traction Control issue hasn't gone away. I don't really see how these problems could be related, but it's really odd that both what would pop up at the same time.
Checked the placard, and my manufacture date is 04/11, so I'm barely under the 5 years. If it's not the cap, I'll call the dealership tomorrow. Question: Does 04/11 mean I should have to the end of the month of 04/16, or how does that work?
The Traction Control issue hasn't gone away. I don't really see how these problems could be related, but it's really odd that both what would pop up at the same time.
Checked the placard, and my manufacture date is 04/11, so I'm barely under the 5 years. If it's not the cap, I'll call the dealership tomorrow. Question: Does 04/11 mean I should have to the end of the month of 04/16, or how does that work?
Warranties start from the date of first purchase, not manufacture.
I had the same codes pop last summer. If it is your PCV valve failing you should be able to open your hood and hear a vacuum sound. Its very noticeable after you think to listen to it. It was also causing weird idling, I hope this helps!
The part that was replaced sounded like the water outlet which is covered on the 5 year power train warranty. So if you bought in January or February 3 years ago it would of been covered under that warranty.
I would say take it to the dealer if you didn't buy it in those months odds are the problem will be covered on the power train warranty.
I would say take it to the dealer if you didn't buy it in those months odds are the problem will be covered on the power train warranty.
So when I popped the hood this morning, there was more oil around the oil cap. I think this might be the culprit. Visually, the O Ring looks to be in good shape, but I'll replace it and see if that does the trick. After I replace it, how long until I would expect the engine performance to return to normal (assuming this fixes it)?
If the problem persists, I will listen for the vacuum sound and go ahead and make an appointment at the dealer. Smacking myself on the head about the water outlet being under power train warranty. Not sure why it didn't occur to me to look in to a warranty repair first.
If the problem persists, I will listen for the vacuum sound and go ahead and make an appointment at the dealer. Smacking myself on the head about the water outlet being under power train warranty. Not sure why it didn't occur to me to look in to a warranty repair first.
I have an appointment at the Dealership on Wednesday.
Meanwhile, I was doing some maintenance on the car this weekend, and as it sat idling, it began getting REALLY rough, and eventually the engine died. It starts back up fine, so it just doesn't like idling right now. Definitely something choking it, so hopefully the PCV valve is the culprit and it will be covered under warranty.
Meanwhile, I was doing some maintenance on the car this weekend, and as it sat idling, it began getting REALLY rough, and eventually the engine died. It starts back up fine, so it just doesn't like idling right now. Definitely something choking it, so hopefully the PCV valve is the culprit and it will be covered under warranty.
Just picked up the Cruze from the dealership. Diagnosed as a faulty camshaft cover. Replaced that under warranty, they drove it for 10 miles, and the error code didn't pop back up. On my way back to the office from picking it up it was definitely running and idling more smoothly.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
You're welcome. Now stick around and find out more about your Cruze.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
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