Hello all! There are some other threads that partially deal with the issues I am having, but none seem to be an exact match, so here I am.
2011 Cruze Eco 6 speed. I bought it 3 years or so ago as Certified PreOwned. Currently 74k miles.
I developed a coolant leak a few months ago. Traced it to a plastic housing just forward of the coolant reservoir. O.E. only part, and I have a new baby at home, and although I am skilled enough to tackle a job like that, I just don't have the time to, so I took it to the shop across the street from the office to get it fixed. $300. Drove it home, popped the hood to make sure it all look OK, and it did, save for a bit of what looked to be oil on the engine cover. Figured maybe the shop got a bit sloppy, and didn't think much more of it at the time.
Next day the check engine light came on. Went to Advance, got it read, and it kicked out P1101 and P0171. Judging from what I've read, this could be MAF, vacuum leak, or others. But, I also found a thread that said these codes kicked out when the oil cap wasn't properly installed, and that was also accompanied by some oil sputtering out while driving. Once I read that, I popped the hood, and the cap was installed upside down. What I mean by that is that the word Oil and the oil weight were upside down when I read it. Now, the cap looks to be the same no matter which way, so I wouldn't think it would matter, but the fact that there was also fresh oil around the cap led me to believe it wasn't getting a proper seal. I turned the cap around, and drove it home, full expecting the Check Engine Light to go off within a day or 2.
The next day, driving around, the light did not go off and, in fact, the 2 warning related to Stablitrack not working and Traction Control not working kept popping up intermittently. That next trip it was really bad, but since then those have subsided, and I didn't get those warnings at all on my way to the office this morning.
But, the check engine light is still on, and I am pretty sure it's idling rougher than it was, and possible having surges in power when accelerating (although maybe that's normal for my car and I'm just more sensitive to it because of the light on the dash).
So, first question - if I assume that the improper oil cap was the culprit, is there anything I need to do to reset the system, or just reset the light, or should it all return to normal once it's properly sealed? If it should return to normal on it's own, how long should I give it (it's been about 150 miles give or take since I put it back on correctly). If the cap wasn't the issue after all, what's the best first thing to check or replace to see where the issue lies? I'd rather not take it back to a shop - I can do simple to moderate stuff on my own, I just don't know how to diagnose the culprit.
Thanks in advance!