Chevy Cruze 2016 LT (Fob not working, options to start car?)

44937 Views 15 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Blasirl, Jan 12, 2018

novalys

Discussion Starter · Aug 13, 2016

Hello everyone,

While searching for solutions for my problem I ended up in this forum, hope someone can help me... So I just purchased this car last week and today while trying to go buy something to eat, I noticed the car won't unlock by pressing the door button. Now, I had the FOB/Key in my pocket but anyways I took that out and tried to unlock the car with the FOB button, still no response. Tried lock/start/trunk nothing was working so I went back with the other replacement key and try that one out, still no response, like if both batteries were dead (highly unlikely since they are both new). So did a quick research and found there is a hidden key in the FOB which you can use to open the door, GREAT! Now I'm inside the car and the alarm goes off !! At this point I freak out because is 4 AM with an alarm waking everyone up

tried to start the vehicle and the first thing I see in the dashboard is an indicator of "The car is being stolen/thieft detection" so at this point I just don't know what to do and shut the car and close the door, it did closed the doors automatically and the alarm stopped. So my question is, is there a way I can start the car with the hidden key? What could be causing this problem?

Hope someone can help me out with this, the car is a Chevrolet Cruze 2016 LT.

Thanks!

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1 - 16 of 16 Posts

NickD

· #2 · Aug 13, 2016

2012 2LT did the same thing when that 2032 battery shortly went dead, had to quickly put the key in the ignition to start the car to kill that horn blasting off. Guess they haven't improved this yet.

Found a no name made in India battery inside of the remotes, replaced it with a medical grade Duracell, even over four years later was still good when our Cruze was totaled two months ago.

Only the guy that wrote the firmware can change this.

novalys

Discussion Starter · #3 · Aug 13, 2016

I really don't think is the battery of the FOB, I just got the keys like 4 days ago and both are dead. Thinking must be something else, also I don't have the ignition it's a push to start car

but in Youtube there is a video that shows a "secret" compartment below the hand break where you insert the key and it allows to start the car, just can't find this similar thing in this model..

NickD

· #4 · Aug 13, 2016 (Edited)

My new unmentionable toy does not set off the alarm when I use the hidden the inside of the remote key, is of the proximity type with a good battery in the remote, just have to push on that black button to either lock or unlock the car.

Also has that push button start button, and even with the battery removed from the remote, can still start it, have to hold the remote in my hand and push that start button with the remote.

A good 2032 battery show read 3.3 volts open circuited, if it even goes down to about 3.1 volts, its worthless. Would not assume your batteries are good until you test them. Ha, even a Harbor Freight three buck VOM works, purchased one because it was only three bucks. But I won't mention what my HP's cost, but was more than three bucks.

Try touching your start button with the remote, maybe all these things are the same, learned this by experimenting.

Also since I am paranoid with these remotes, sealed in tight in a zip lock sandwich bag with a rubber band tied around it. Keeps it looking like new and makes 100% water proof. Have a baby grandson that likes to wet on me. No respect for his grandpa, LOL.

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novalys

Discussion Starter · #5 · Aug 13, 2016

Well, I do have a multimeter, let me do it right now.

NickD

· #6 · Aug 13, 2016

On mine, remove that key from the remote, put that wedge end of the head of that key into that slot it came out of and twist it to open up the remote.

Only had this new thing for five weeks now, for 63 years, still pulling this remote out of my pocket to start this car, finally sinking in, I don't have to do this anymore. They can just stay in my pocket.

novalys

Discussion Starter · #7 · Aug 13, 2016

OK 2 things, first.. I feel stupid cause I went to the car to pick a key for my garage and just by reflex I opened the door... which opened! so my FOB was working again..... still, got my multimeter and the battery measures a 3.0, so CR 2032 battery should be above 3.0v? It's a panasonic battery, I would think is a good brand but the measurement is indeed just 3.0v

abhayes722

· #8 · Aug 13, 2016 (Edited)

This is how you start your car if your fob has a weak battery or no signal. Remove the trim from the storage area near the gear shift, and there will be a slot to insert the key blade. There is also details in your owner's manual under the Keys, Doors, and Windows section.

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NickD

· #9 · Aug 14, 2016

Hmmm, the old read the owners manual trick.

3.0V for all practical purposes is a dead battery. Never read anywhere how long remote batteries should last. And without being paranoid, ever since our government decided to do business with China, have to be concerned about counterfeits. So you can't always believe what you read on a component.

ChevyGuy

· #10 · Aug 15, 2016 (Edited)

NickD said:
3.0V for all practical purposes is a dead battery.

What spec are you looking at? According to Energizer, 3.0V under load is a fresh battery. 2.0V is considered end-of-life. I don't see an "unloaded" rating.

NickD

· #11 · Aug 16, 2016

ChevyGuy said:
What spec are you looking at? According to Energizer, 3.0V under load is a fresh battery. 2.0V is considered end-of-life. I don't see an "unloaded" rating.

Are you asking a question or saying a 2032 battery with an open circuited voltage of 3.0 V should work? Posting something that doesn't have a single thing to do with the application of this battery, and they don't even specify the load current.

Open circuited voltage testing is the key specification for the state of charge of the battery and is as old as batteries themselves. And application refers to a specific characteristic of remote circuitry, talking about a 10% decrease in open circuited voltage here.

Take a common CMOS microcontroller designed to operate at 5.0V, reduce that voltage down to 4.75V and it would work at all or if it does, will operate extremely erratically. Same thing if you apply 5.25V to it not only erratic, but risk toasting it as well.

2032's have a characteristic to hold their 3.3V for a very long time, but once it drops to 3.2V its life is very short. And if you power a remote with a precision lab type power supply you will see the same results.

While you are looking for specifications, see if you can find the mah ratings of these batteries, easier to find how to build a nuclear device.

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ChevyGuy

· #12 · Aug 16, 2016

Just popped the battery out of my fob. 2.93V (I assume the shop meter is reasonable accurate.) Most of my experience with that battery type is as a CMOS battery. No question about the voltage reading when I pull out a bad one of those.

As for AH, Panasonic says 220 mAH. Energizer says 240 mAH (to 2.0V).

Anyway, I wouldn't worry about a battery showing 3.0V when just pulled from a device.

One thing no one has brought up - RF interference. I'm pretty sure the RF link between the fob and the receiver by the inside rear view mirror is required. I think the backup process is just to cover for a dead battery. By placing it close to a coil, it gets an inductive "charge" to run. I suppose it's possible it could signal back through the magnetic system, but I haven't seen anything that suggests that.

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NickD

· #13 · Aug 17, 2016

Other variables as well, how many different suppliers is GM using for these remotes? With my 2012 2LT using 2032's, wouldn't work at all with an OC voltage at 3.0V. In terms of digital devices, my watch battery is less than half the size of a 2032 with an OCV of 1.5 volts and is good for at least six years.

Garage door remotes use these.

As well as early 90's vehicles that may they RIP due to road salt. Never recalled replacing these batteries in my garage door remotes, but do recall I installed the garage door opener in the year 2000, still works.

Batteries that came with my brand new 2012 Cruze had no name, Made in India, hardly lasted six months, but installed medical grade Duracells, still were working when our poor little Cruze was totaled two months ago.

Where is the OP at? Did he try new batteries? Or maybe he got cursed with bad remotes.

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rmeav8r#106

· #14 · Jan 6, 2018

I'm posting this answer on all the key fob threads. There is a tech bulletin out # 16-NA-396 that a receiver needs to be replaced when the "key fob not detected" appears on the dash and you cannot get the doors to open or the car won't let you drive it. I noticed that it only happened to me when I remote started the vehicle two times in a row due to the cold weather. Dealership getting a visit on the 11th for a fix. I had to use my On Star app to shut the car off and waited 30 minutes before the fob worked again. Don't you just love all this Star Trek technology. Its here to make our life better !

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rmeav8r#106

· #15 · Jan 12, 2018

Took the car to the dealer today and they said that the tech bulletin didn't apply to my manufacture date. They did perform a Body Control Module (BCM) update and they said that it should solve the problem. Time will tell and I will update the post.

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Blasirl

· #16 · Jan 12, 2018

https://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=197955

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