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Chevy Cruze Bilstein B6 HD Shock/Strut Review

61418 Views 169 Replies 39 Participants Last post by  Cruzing12
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I've had the opportunity to put about 100 miles on the Bilstein B6 HD shocks that I purchased for my 2012 Cruze Eco MT6, and feel that I can give a good review. For those who are unfamiliar with these, Bilstein has three shock replacement options for the Cruze; the Bilstein B4 (OE Replacements), Bilstein B6 HD (a heavy duty shock), and the Bilstein B8 (a heavy duty shock designed to be used with lowering springs). Since I have no desire to reduce my ride height with the roads we have around here but did want to upgrade, I went with the Bilstein B6 HD.


Introduction

The reason I began looking for a replacement set of shocks is that I began to notice a degradation in vehicle stability and comfort. When driving over a highway overpass, for example, I'd hit uneven pavement that sometimes had lane-wide gaps or bumps, and the suspension in the front would bottom out. Most people might not notice what I did, but when the shocks crash through the jounce bumpers, you can definitely notice it happening. On a particular road I always travel to buy car parts, there's a railroad track which everyone slows down on. In the Cruze, I would bottom out the front suspension very noticeably at the posted 35mph speed limit. It was unnerving. Furthermore, when turning over uneven pavement, the vehicle would rock left and right a bit, but overshoot the simple uneven pavement in an attempt to stabilize itself. Braking exhibited more nose dive than usual as well.

This could be written off as worn shocks, and some of it undoubtedly is. I have 66k miles on the vehicle now, with about 50k miles on the actual shocks (they were replaced by GM under warranty due to noise early on), but my shocks at 50k miles did not exhibit any of the typical symptoms that "completely worn" shocks do. It is generally stable on the highway (doesn't "float,"), and rides comfortably.


The Visual Difference
An immediate difference can be seen visually in the shocks. The Bilstein shock is longer, and contains a built-in jounce bumper in the shock itself, so you need to remove yours when installing. This does not affect ride height. The strut shaft is MUCH larger in diameter.



The rears were not as big of a difference, measuring a shaft diameter of 12mm stock and 14mm on the Bilsteins, but it is still an increase nonetheless.



Aside from the obvious visual differences, the vehicle maintained the same front ride height, but gained about 1/2" of ride height in the rear. I've read about this happening with other cars, as this is a pressurized gas shock. Since I have a sound system in the trunk, I don't mind the increase at all and expect it to settle a little over time.


The Driving Difference
The initial driving experience was nothing short of remarkable. I had read other reviews people posted of these shocks on other vehicles where the vehicle was described as "taut," and I think that term defines the change quite accurately. The vehicle simply feels more composed, more controlled, more predictable, and more stable.

I have a couple of places where I bottom out the suspension on a regular basis. The first is the railroad tracks mentioned above, and the second is a transition between two surfaces going over a highway overpass. First thing I did once I installed these is go out for a drive on those same surfaces. The highway transition was such a big difference that I didn't even notice it. When I approached the railroad tracks, I felt a little crazy since everyone was slowing down to 25mph in the 35mph zone, and I was accelerating to 40mph. Went over the railroad tracks and barely felt it. The car didn't have the usual nosedive, slam on the jounce bumpers, bounce back up, and level off again. It just kind of rolled over the uneven pavement as if I was driving on a cloud.

This all came as a surprise because on lighter irregularities in the road, the suspension now feels more sporty. Instead of calling it stiff, I'd refer back to the "taut" reference. While you certainly feel more of the road with these shocks than with OE shocks, you feel less of that road on large anomalies, and even the small road anomalies aren't what I'd call "stiff." On the highway, your bead isn't bouncing back and forth as if the suspension was welded; it simply follows the road more securely as if there was some magnetic force pulling the car to the road. That is, until you hit a big hole or bump in the ground and the car just gracefully absorbs it without making you cringe.

I was very deliberate in not wanting to lower the car. I like how cars feel more planted due to the reduction in body sway, but don't like the harshness you get with the reduction in suspension travel. I feel that with these shocks, I got every bit of sporty handling one would out of lowering springs, but without all the harshness.

On a scientific level, the purpose of the shocks is to control suspension travel; the purpose of the springs is to suspend your vehicle's weight. These shocks more strongly limit suspension travel, so you feel more of the small bumps on the road instead of the suspension absorbing them, but in return, the suspension doesn't bottom out and make you wish you'd have slammed on the brakes earlier when going over much larger bumps in the road. The result is almost an oxymoron; sporty, but comfortable; taut. I felt like I was driving a tuned European car.

On braking, I had 1/3 the amount of nose dive I used to, and it was much more gradual than before. While making quick turning maneuvers, there was less body sway, and the vehicle responded to drive input more quickly and more accurately. Going over uneven pavement while turning, when my Cruze used to rock left and right trying to settle back to a resting position, the shocks kept the vehicle riding level and stable. All in all, the vehicle feels much more confident.

I'll admit, this is the first time I've owned a vehicle that had a truly good set of shocks, so it was a bit of a revelation for me, but I can wholeheardly give this upgrade a solid recommendation for anyone looking to improve the ride comfort of their vehicle without turning it into a land yacht, and improve the handling of their vehicle without clenching their buttocks whenever they see a large bump or pothole in the road.


Conclusion
The Bilstein B6 HD shocks are an all-around solid upgrade for the Gen1 Chevy Cruze and will be my go-to replacement shock for any vehicle I own in the future. For those of you with lowered springs, look into the B8 shocks.

Both the Bilstein B6 HD and the Bilstein B8 shocks are available from order from the BNR Website:

B6 HD: Bilstein B6 HD Shocks
B8 Sport: Bilstein B8 Sport Shocks
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The fronts needed to be done as they were worn. The rears, I replaced just to make sure. They weren't bad, but I didn't want to find out they were bad in 10k miles and have to pull the shocks off again. Not that it's difficult on the rear.

I bought the mounts from rockauto, KYB for the rear ands Monroe for the front

I did not use camber bolts and don't believe they are necessary on stock springs.


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I forgot you went stock height. I have Eibach springs and the sport struts.
Hello all,
I had a shop install Bilstein B6 front struts yesterday on my 2013 Cruze Eco. Everything went well except the top cap/plate bottoms out on the large self locking nut on top of the strut and the cap does not rest on the struct tower. I did a lot of searching and others have similar problems with coil over installations, but I could find no post to why this happens or a solution.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I have only put on a few miles since the installation, but ride quality and handling are greatly improved, the car has 55,000 miles on it and the original struts were worn out.

Thanks, Phil
OP. Did you just reuse the OE spring on the fronts? Or did you buy the whole assembly?

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Did you replace the front strut mounts as part of the install? I did.

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The shop used the wrong nut. The nut that goes on top of the first strut plate is much thinner than the one I see under there. I managed to dig up a picture of the nut you're supposed to be using. The nut pointed in the picture is much thinner than the one I'm seeing on your strut.

Attachments

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Thanks Extreme,
They used the lock nut that came with Bilsteine's. I still have the flat nuts. I suppose the springs have to be compressed if I remove the lock nut to install the flat one while strut is in the car and can that be done without removing the hole strut?
Thank you for your help.
5
Just adding my $.02:

Since my Bilstein sport struts are warranted for life, I chose to purchase the rest of the needed parts that also has a lifetime warranty. Moog seems to be the only manufacturer to offer this warranty for the parts I needed.

You will need 2ea K160334 – these are the Cruze specific strut mounts – they are hard to locate for some reason, but the Moog Tech Hotline verified them for me.

Auto part Wheel Automotive wheel system Clutch part Rim


You will need 2ea K150275 if you have standard struts – These are stock strut bellows (wrongly listed as strut mounts everywhere I looked), this is not needed if you have sport struts.

Auto part


You will need 2ea K750519 – These are the end links



You will need 1ea K200843 – These are front sway bar bushings

Product Blue Plastic Auto part Cylinder


I have no affiliation with DST, but Tammy was of great assistance in pricing and locating parts for me. I ended up purchasing just the Strut Mounts from DST as the others were cheaper on Amazon. This is the only place that seems to have access to these mounts.

Tammy Johnson
Customer Service Specialist
1-888-406-2330 - Live Chat Support
Text Font


EDIT: Feel free to move this to a better position, it took me awhile to edit so it is interrupting a conversation.
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Thanks Extreme,
They used the lock nut that came with Bilsteine's. I still have the flat nuts. I suppose the springs have to be compressed if I remove the lock nut to install the flat one while strut is in the car and can that be done without removing the hole strut?
Thank you for your help.
Yeah, the locknuts go on the top plate. The flat nuts go on the bottom plate. Springs do have to be compressed to replace that nut. Removing the whole strut is just two more bolts, so I'd just remove it.

The tough part is getting that nut tightened and the old one off. I'm not proud of my method, but it seems to have worked. Ideally, you want a special tool for that purpose (a strut nut tool). I ended up being able to sort of wedge a 15/16" wrench in there to get the original one off, and used a 15/16" socket with vice grips tightened around it to put it back on. A proper 24mm strut rod nut socket runs $50...
A LOT of great work/info here from ExtremeRevolution and Blasirl. Will come in handy when time to replace shocks/struts. Thank you!

I vote for Sticky-fication...anyone second the motion?
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Done.

To add to my review, I was very happy to see how these performed when I was towing my boat. I have a 14' Aluminum boat that weighs about 900 pounds boat + trailer. Since last year, I've added these shocks, a rear sway bar, front and rear upper strut tower bars, and a rear lower chassis bar.

The improvement in towing capability is incredible. The Cruze had no problem towing the boat before, but now, I don't even feel that the trailer is behind me. Even going over railroad tracks or big bumps, there is no "pogo" effect on the rear (due to the weight shift of the trailer), and the chassis remains very stable. I'm still very happy I spent the money on these shocks, and would encourage everyone else to save a little more and get these instead of OE replacements.
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"Springs do have to be compressed to replace that nut. Removing the whole strut is just two more bolts, so I'd just remove it>"

Yea, that is why I had a shop do them, I don't' have a spring compressor or a tool to hold the strut and tighten the nut. Live and learn.

Thanks, Again
I wonder if I installed a Ultra Racing front tower brace to take up the gap between the tall self locking nut and the top plate if that would solve my problem or would the plate still bottom out on the nut?[h=1][/h]
I wonder if I installed a Ultra Racing front tower brace to take up the gap between the tall self locking nut and the top plate if that would solve my problem or would the plate still bottom out on the nut?[h=1][/h]
I don't know. Others have installed these shocks without the problem you're running into. I don't think the UR front tower brace will fix it.

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Update on my Bilstein B6 structs. I took my car back to the shop that installed my struts. They removed the top plate and the large lock nut that came with the struts and installed the the thin stock nut to the top of the strut( as ExtremeRevolution suggested) and reinstalled the strut cap. They did not have to compress the springs , the weight of the car kept everything in place.

I highly recommend these shocks/struts, they make a remarkable improvement in ride and handling
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I bought new

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for the rears, did you reuse the old dustboot, buy new, or go without?

i reused the boot cuz it has that rubber bumpstop?? at the top....

i didnt expect the bumpstops to be there, mine arent in great shape, wouldve preferred to change them out at the same time, sigh.
I reused the boot and bump stops on the rear.

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I found the Repair Manual for the shock and strut install and plan on ordering these this weekend. However, does anyone know the strut top nut torque is? I purchased the tool and would like to do a write up/how to. Not the one on the plate as that's in the repair instructions, but the nut under that on the mounts? Also, do they come with new shock absorber nuts? It calls for new ones.
I found the Repair Manual for the shock and strut install and plan on ordering these this weekend. However, does anyone know the strut top nut torque is? I purchased the tool and would like to do a write up/how to. Not the one on the plate as that's in the repair instructions, but the nut under that on the mounts? Also, do they come with new shock absorber nuts? It calls for new ones.
Torque specs can be found here:

Chevrolet Cruze Repair Manual: Front Suspension - Suspension
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