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I have a couple questions. Sorry if the first one is really newbish. lol


1. When it says 66 lb/ft + 60 Degrees does that mean you torque it to to 66 lb/ft and then just eyeball 60 degrees more of a turn? Sorry, never used torque specs.


2. Do new rear bolts come with the shock absorbers? It calls for new ones.
 

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Just adding my $.02:

Since my Bilstein sport struts are warranted for life, I chose to purchase the rest of the needed parts that also has a lifetime warranty. Moog seems to be the only manufacturer to offer this warranty for the parts I needed.

You will need 2ea K160334 – these are the Cruze specific strut mounts – they are hard to locate for some reason, but the Moog Tech Hotline verified them for me.

[iurl="http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=233546&d=1498058049"]
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You will need 2ea K150275 if you have standard struts – These are stock strut bellows (wrongly listed as strut mounts everywhere I looked), this is not needed if you have sport struts.

[iurl="http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=233562&d=1498058059"]
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You will need 2ea K750519 – These are the end links

[iurl="http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=233570&d=1498058064"]
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You will need 1ea K200843 – These are front sway bar bushings

[iurl="http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=233554&d=1498058055"]
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I have no affiliation with DST, but Tammy was of great assistance in pricing and locating parts for me. I ended up purchasing just the Strut Mounts from DST as the others were cheaper on Amazon. This is the only place that seems to have access to these mounts.

Tammy Johnson
Customer Service Specialist
1-888-406-2330 - Live Chat Support
[iurl="http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=233578&d=1498058403"]
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EDIT: Feel free to move this to a better position, it took me awhile to edit so it is interrupting a conversation.
Just to confirm, these are the extras you can get to go with everything? I recently got new mounts and links but debating on ordering the covers and bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I have a couple questions. Sorry if the first one is really newbish. lol


1. When it says 66 lb/ft + 60 Degrees does that mean you torque it to to 66 lb/ft and then just eyeball 60 degrees more of a turn? Sorry, never used torque specs.


2. Do new rear bolts come with the shock absorbers? It calls for new ones.
Yep, eyeball 60 degrees and you'll be good. Give or take 5 degrees won't make a difference.

Shocks do not come with bolts. That said, I re-used mine.

Just to confirm, these are the extras you can get to go with everything? I recently got new mounts and links but debating on ordering the covers and bushings.
Don't bother with front sway bar bushings, they're already poly from the factory. No need to replace the accordion boots either. Definitely replace the mounts and the sway bar linkages.
 

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Since I recently replaced the front mounts and links I'll leave them. I have the moog ones. But I'll order mounts for the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Since I recently replaced the front mounts and links I'll leave them. I have the moog ones. But I'll order mounts for the rear.
I replaced my rear mounts, but honestly did not feel that I needed to. The rears looked fine.
 

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All the noise I hear is in the front. Might go to the pawn shop and pick up an impact with a small compressor
 

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The factory shocks on many cars are a compromise. People want good handling but without the tautness that comes will it. This is really noticeable in pickup trucks where people complain about the rough ride. Upgrading from the factory shocks to a pair of quality shocks can have a big difference in the ride and handling characteristics of a vehicle. For those of us who want a better handling vehicle, assuming everything else in the suspension is up to specs, replacing the shocks with a pair of upgraded shocks built for the kind of ride you want can be a great upgrade, especially if you need them anyways.


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The factory shocks on many cars are a compromise. People want good handling but without the tautness that comes will it.
The only one I've really noticed that isn't are the struts on my Volt - the weight of the batteries keep the CG low enough to where the dampers can be much softer, while retaining very minimal body roll.

It's quite exceptional, really.
 

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The only one I've really noticed that isn't are the struts on my Volt - the weight of the batteries keep the CG low enough to where the dampers can be much softer, while retaining very minimal body roll.

It's quite exceptional, really.
I've heard the same thing from a couple of other Volt owners.


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Discussion Starter #51
CG doesn't really have anything to do with dampers though. Curb weight would, but that would only suggest stiffer dampers. I think you're confusing dampers with roll bars.

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CG doesn't really have anything to do with dampers though. Curb weight would, but that would only suggest stiffer dampers. I think you're confusing dampers with roll bars.
No, I'm not.

Softer dampers will allow for more body roll (assuming the springs are matched accordingly).

If your CG is at a typical height, you will incur more body roll than if your CG is much closer to the ground, with the same dampers, because your rotational moment will be greater.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
No, I'm not.

Softer dampers will allow for more body roll (assuming the springs are matched accordingly).

If your CG is at a typical height, you will incur more body roll than if your CG is much closer to the ground, with the same dampers, because your rotational moment will be greater.
The problem is, dampers do more than just control body roll. They also control the rate of suspension travel which, in a vehicle that weighs a few hundred pounds more, would require stiffer shocks, if anything, due to the requirement for stiffer springs to support the additional weight. Shocks still have to be capable of controlling unsprung weight so you don't bottom out over road anomalies like I did in the Cruze when mine had 60k miles on them. The effect on body roll is a secondary benefit changing shock absorber stiffness and will only be noticed in sharp, split-second maneuvers. Exiting a highway on ramp, where body roll increases slowly, shocks will have little to no influence since their purpose is to control the rate of suspension compression and decompression (jounce and rebound), not the position of suspension compression. That task is given to the roll bars. Shocks control the rate of suspension travel in very rapid loads, which is why they are also known as shock absorbers.

Body roll is caused by the weight of the car leaning in a turn. I know you're aware of this, I'm just re-stating it for the benefit of others. Compared to driving over a bump on the highway at 70mph, the onset of body roll is much, much slower. A damper will control how quickly the body rolls, but not how much it does. Body roll occurs slowly enough that dampers don't really have much of an effect on it. At best, you'll feel less body roll for a very short period after you engage the turn, but the shock will give way to more body roll very shortly afterward. If I put my entire weight on a shock absorber off the car, it will fully compress, at a specific rate. If it will compress just under my own weight, why should we expect that it will have a consequential effect in total body roll?
 

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Just got my update that they are OTW. (From Cali, but idc as long as they're what I ordered lol) Should be here Thursday or sooner. Will probably get to them Sunday or the following weekend if time allows. Sadly I could not find anyone with front 1.8 springs to give me and I really don't wanna spend $100 for some springs lol. So one day I may have to take it apart to install some but I will see what I get for now from these.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
the z link is so heavy though, how are the shocks now? seeing as its almost 3/4 of a year since this post?
Still excellent. I very much enjoy them every day. @jblackburn can give you some impressions as well since he drove my car at Lordstown. Everything I've said about them still applies.
 

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kewl, where do you live and where can I get these shocks? I'm in Canada.
I live in Northwest Indiana, and I got the shocks from BNR, but I think their pricing is only for US orders. I don't know what the best place would be to order them from in Canada, unless you can have them shipped somewhere in the US and go pick them up. I should have a link for the product on the BNR site in the first post in this thread. I highly recommend getting these shocks. It's definitely worth the trouble and the wait.
 

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Still excellent. I very much enjoy them every day. @jblackburn can give you some impressions as well since he drove my car at Lordstown. Everything I've said about them still applies.
They corner relatively flat, and they ride a bit stiff going down the road at a normal clip. However, they then shrug off massive road imperfections like potholes and dips to the point where the car mostly just glides over them unphased. Most of what you hear is just tire impact noise. I was impressed - his car handled a rough section of road more smoothly than my brand-new Gen 2 Cruze or a 2017 Honda Accord (although he has larger sidewall tires than either of those cars as well). Chucking it into a sharp corner where roads meet at ~30 mph, there was no understeer or tire squealing - it just went where pointed. A normal Eco on the Goodyear tires and stock suspension would try to crash itself. The words "confidence inspiring" would appropriately describe his upgrades to the car.
 
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