Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

Chevy Cruze Bilstein B6 HD Shock/Strut Review

61392 Views 169 Replies 39 Participants Last post by  Cruzing12
2
I've had the opportunity to put about 100 miles on the Bilstein B6 HD shocks that I purchased for my 2012 Cruze Eco MT6, and feel that I can give a good review. For those who are unfamiliar with these, Bilstein has three shock replacement options for the Cruze; the Bilstein B4 (OE Replacements), Bilstein B6 HD (a heavy duty shock), and the Bilstein B8 (a heavy duty shock designed to be used with lowering springs). Since I have no desire to reduce my ride height with the roads we have around here but did want to upgrade, I went with the Bilstein B6 HD.


Introduction

The reason I began looking for a replacement set of shocks is that I began to notice a degradation in vehicle stability and comfort. When driving over a highway overpass, for example, I'd hit uneven pavement that sometimes had lane-wide gaps or bumps, and the suspension in the front would bottom out. Most people might not notice what I did, but when the shocks crash through the jounce bumpers, you can definitely notice it happening. On a particular road I always travel to buy car parts, there's a railroad track which everyone slows down on. In the Cruze, I would bottom out the front suspension very noticeably at the posted 35mph speed limit. It was unnerving. Furthermore, when turning over uneven pavement, the vehicle would rock left and right a bit, but overshoot the simple uneven pavement in an attempt to stabilize itself. Braking exhibited more nose dive than usual as well.

This could be written off as worn shocks, and some of it undoubtedly is. I have 66k miles on the vehicle now, with about 50k miles on the actual shocks (they were replaced by GM under warranty due to noise early on), but my shocks at 50k miles did not exhibit any of the typical symptoms that "completely worn" shocks do. It is generally stable on the highway (doesn't "float,"), and rides comfortably.


The Visual Difference
An immediate difference can be seen visually in the shocks. The Bilstein shock is longer, and contains a built-in jounce bumper in the shock itself, so you need to remove yours when installing. This does not affect ride height. The strut shaft is MUCH larger in diameter.



The rears were not as big of a difference, measuring a shaft diameter of 12mm stock and 14mm on the Bilsteins, but it is still an increase nonetheless.



Aside from the obvious visual differences, the vehicle maintained the same front ride height, but gained about 1/2" of ride height in the rear. I've read about this happening with other cars, as this is a pressurized gas shock. Since I have a sound system in the trunk, I don't mind the increase at all and expect it to settle a little over time.


The Driving Difference
The initial driving experience was nothing short of remarkable. I had read other reviews people posted of these shocks on other vehicles where the vehicle was described as "taut," and I think that term defines the change quite accurately. The vehicle simply feels more composed, more controlled, more predictable, and more stable.

I have a couple of places where I bottom out the suspension on a regular basis. The first is the railroad tracks mentioned above, and the second is a transition between two surfaces going over a highway overpass. First thing I did once I installed these is go out for a drive on those same surfaces. The highway transition was such a big difference that I didn't even notice it. When I approached the railroad tracks, I felt a little crazy since everyone was slowing down to 25mph in the 35mph zone, and I was accelerating to 40mph. Went over the railroad tracks and barely felt it. The car didn't have the usual nosedive, slam on the jounce bumpers, bounce back up, and level off again. It just kind of rolled over the uneven pavement as if I was driving on a cloud.

This all came as a surprise because on lighter irregularities in the road, the suspension now feels more sporty. Instead of calling it stiff, I'd refer back to the "taut" reference. While you certainly feel more of the road with these shocks than with OE shocks, you feel less of that road on large anomalies, and even the small road anomalies aren't what I'd call "stiff." On the highway, your bead isn't bouncing back and forth as if the suspension was welded; it simply follows the road more securely as if there was some magnetic force pulling the car to the road. That is, until you hit a big hole or bump in the ground and the car just gracefully absorbs it without making you cringe.

I was very deliberate in not wanting to lower the car. I like how cars feel more planted due to the reduction in body sway, but don't like the harshness you get with the reduction in suspension travel. I feel that with these shocks, I got every bit of sporty handling one would out of lowering springs, but without all the harshness.

On a scientific level, the purpose of the shocks is to control suspension travel; the purpose of the springs is to suspend your vehicle's weight. These shocks more strongly limit suspension travel, so you feel more of the small bumps on the road instead of the suspension absorbing them, but in return, the suspension doesn't bottom out and make you wish you'd have slammed on the brakes earlier when going over much larger bumps in the road. The result is almost an oxymoron; sporty, but comfortable; taut. I felt like I was driving a tuned European car.

On braking, I had 1/3 the amount of nose dive I used to, and it was much more gradual than before. While making quick turning maneuvers, there was less body sway, and the vehicle responded to drive input more quickly and more accurately. Going over uneven pavement while turning, when my Cruze used to rock left and right trying to settle back to a resting position, the shocks kept the vehicle riding level and stable. All in all, the vehicle feels much more confident.

I'll admit, this is the first time I've owned a vehicle that had a truly good set of shocks, so it was a bit of a revelation for me, but I can wholeheardly give this upgrade a solid recommendation for anyone looking to improve the ride comfort of their vehicle without turning it into a land yacht, and improve the handling of their vehicle without clenching their buttocks whenever they see a large bump or pothole in the road.


Conclusion
The Bilstein B6 HD shocks are an all-around solid upgrade for the Gen1 Chevy Cruze and will be my go-to replacement shock for any vehicle I own in the future. For those of you with lowered springs, look into the B8 shocks.

Both the Bilstein B6 HD and the Bilstein B8 shocks are available from order from the BNR Website:

B6 HD: Bilstein B6 HD Shocks
B8 Sport: Bilstein B8 Sport Shocks
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 5
41 - 60 of 170 Posts
I have a couple questions. Sorry if the first one is really newbish. lol


1. When it says 66 lb/ft + 60 Degrees does that mean you torque it to to 66 lb/ft and then just eyeball 60 degrees more of a turn? Sorry, never used torque specs.


2. Do new rear bolts come with the shock absorbers? It calls for new ones.
Just adding my $.02:

Since my Bilstein sport struts are warranted for life, I chose to purchase the rest of the needed parts that also has a lifetime warranty. Moog seems to be the only manufacturer to offer this warranty for the parts I needed.

You will need 2ea K160334 – these are the Cruze specific strut mounts – they are hard to locate for some reason, but the Moog Tech Hotline verified them for me.

[iurl="http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=233546&d=1498058049"]
[/iurl]

You will need 2ea K150275 if you have standard struts – These are stock strut bellows (wrongly listed as strut mounts everywhere I looked), this is not needed if you have sport struts.

[iurl="http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=233562&d=1498058059"]
[/iurl]

You will need 2ea K750519 – These are the end links

[iurl="http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=233570&d=1498058064"]
[/iurl]

You will need 1ea K200843 – These are front sway bar bushings

[iurl="http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=233554&d=1498058055"]
[/iurl]

I have no affiliation with DST, but Tammy was of great assistance in pricing and locating parts for me. I ended up purchasing just the Strut Mounts from DST as the others were cheaper on Amazon. This is the only place that seems to have access to these mounts.

Tammy Johnson
Customer Service Specialist
1-888-406-2330 - Live Chat Support
[iurl="http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=233578&d=1498058403"]
[/iurl]

EDIT: Feel free to move this to a better position, it took me awhile to edit so it is interrupting a conversation.
Just to confirm, these are the extras you can get to go with everything? I recently got new mounts and links but debating on ordering the covers and bushings.
I have a couple questions. Sorry if the first one is really newbish. lol


1. When it says 66 lb/ft + 60 Degrees does that mean you torque it to to 66 lb/ft and then just eyeball 60 degrees more of a turn? Sorry, never used torque specs.


2. Do new rear bolts come with the shock absorbers? It calls for new ones.
Yep, eyeball 60 degrees and you'll be good. Give or take 5 degrees won't make a difference.

Shocks do not come with bolts. That said, I re-used mine.

Just to confirm, these are the extras you can get to go with everything? I recently got new mounts and links but debating on ordering the covers and bushings.
Don't bother with front sway bar bushings, they're already poly from the factory. No need to replace the accordion boots either. Definitely replace the mounts and the sway bar linkages.
Since I recently replaced the front mounts and links I'll leave them. I have the moog ones. But I'll order mounts for the rear.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Since I recently replaced the front mounts and links I'll leave them. I have the moog ones. But I'll order mounts for the rear.
I replaced my rear mounts, but honestly did not feel that I needed to. The rears looked fine.
Since I recently replaced the front mounts and links I'll leave them. I have the moog ones. But I'll order mounts for the rear.
I replaced my rear mounts, but honestly did not feel that I needed to. The rears looked fine.
So is it not worth the $40 for now? Lol
All the noise I hear is in the front. Might go to the pawn shop and pick up an impact with a small compressor
The factory shocks on many cars are a compromise. People want good handling but without the tautness that comes will it. This is really noticeable in pickup trucks where people complain about the rough ride. Upgrading from the factory shocks to a pair of quality shocks can have a big difference in the ride and handling characteristics of a vehicle. For those of us who want a better handling vehicle, assuming everything else in the suspension is up to specs, replacing the shocks with a pair of upgraded shocks built for the kind of ride you want can be a great upgrade, especially if you need them anyways.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The factory shocks on many cars are a compromise. People want good handling but without the tautness that comes will it.
The only one I've really noticed that isn't are the struts on my Volt - the weight of the batteries keep the CG low enough to where the dampers can be much softer, while retaining very minimal body roll.

It's quite exceptional, really.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
The only one I've really noticed that isn't are the struts on my Volt - the weight of the batteries keep the CG low enough to where the dampers can be much softer, while retaining very minimal body roll.

It's quite exceptional, really.
I've heard the same thing from a couple of other Volt owners.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
CG doesn't really have anything to do with dampers though. Curb weight would, but that would only suggest stiffer dampers. I think you're confusing dampers with roll bars.

Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk
CG doesn't really have anything to do with dampers though. Curb weight would, but that would only suggest stiffer dampers. I think you're confusing dampers with roll bars.
No, I'm not.

Softer dampers will allow for more body roll (assuming the springs are matched accordingly).

If your CG is at a typical height, you will incur more body roll than if your CG is much closer to the ground, with the same dampers, because your rotational moment will be greater.
No, I'm not.

Softer dampers will allow for more body roll (assuming the springs are matched accordingly).

If your CG is at a typical height, you will incur more body roll than if your CG is much closer to the ground, with the same dampers, because your rotational moment will be greater.
The problem is, dampers do more than just control body roll. They also control the rate of suspension travel which, in a vehicle that weighs a few hundred pounds more, would require stiffer shocks, if anything, due to the requirement for stiffer springs to support the additional weight. Shocks still have to be capable of controlling unsprung weight so you don't bottom out over road anomalies like I did in the Cruze when mine had 60k miles on them. The effect on body roll is a secondary benefit changing shock absorber stiffness and will only be noticed in sharp, split-second maneuvers. Exiting a highway on ramp, where body roll increases slowly, shocks will have little to no influence since their purpose is to control the rate of suspension compression and decompression (jounce and rebound), not the position of suspension compression. That task is given to the roll bars. Shocks control the rate of suspension travel in very rapid loads, which is why they are also known as shock absorbers.

Body roll is caused by the weight of the car leaning in a turn. I know you're aware of this, I'm just re-stating it for the benefit of others. Compared to driving over a bump on the highway at 70mph, the onset of body roll is much, much slower. A damper will control how quickly the body rolls, but not how much it does. Body roll occurs slowly enough that dampers don't really have much of an effect on it. At best, you'll feel less body roll for a very short period after you engage the turn, but the shock will give way to more body roll very shortly afterward. If I put my entire weight on a shock absorber off the car, it will fully compress, at a specific rate. If it will compress just under my own weight, why should we expect that it will have a consequential effect in total body roll?
See less See more
Just got my update that they are OTW. (From Cali, but idc as long as they're what I ordered lol) Should be here Thursday or sooner. Will probably get to them Sunday or the following weekend if time allows. Sadly I could not find anyone with front 1.8 springs to give me and I really don't wanna spend $100 for some springs lol. So one day I may have to take it apart to install some but I will see what I get for now from these.
the z link is so heavy though, how are the shocks now? seeing as its almost 3/4 of a year since this post?
the z link is so heavy though, how are the shocks now? seeing as its almost 3/4 of a year since this post?
Still excellent. I very much enjoy them every day. @jblackburn can give you some impressions as well since he drove my car at Lordstown. Everything I've said about them still applies.
the z link is so heavy though, how are the shocks now? seeing as its almost 3/4 of a year since this post?
kewl, where do you live and where can I get these shocks? I'm in Canada.
kewl, where do you live and where can I get these shocks? I'm in Canada.
I live in Northwest Indiana, and I got the shocks from BNR, but I think their pricing is only for US orders. I don't know what the best place would be to order them from in Canada, unless you can have them shipped somewhere in the US and go pick them up. I should have a link for the product on the BNR site in the first post in this thread. I highly recommend getting these shocks. It's definitely worth the trouble and the wait.
Still excellent. I very much enjoy them every day. @jblackburn can give you some impressions as well since he drove my car at Lordstown. Everything I've said about them still applies.
They corner relatively flat, and they ride a bit stiff going down the road at a normal clip. However, they then shrug off massive road imperfections like potholes and dips to the point where the car mostly just glides over them unphased. Most of what you hear is just tire impact noise. I was impressed - his car handled a rough section of road more smoothly than my brand-new Gen 2 Cruze or a 2017 Honda Accord (although he has larger sidewall tires than either of those cars as well). Chucking it into a sharp corner where roads meet at ~30 mph, there was no understeer or tire squealing - it just went where pointed. A normal Eco on the Goodyear tires and stock suspension would try to crash itself. The words "confidence inspiring" would appropriately describe his upgrades to the car.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
kewl, where do you live and where can I get these shocks? I'm in Canada.
have em on my diesel cruze

best price for canada that i found was essex distributors, was cheaper than all the us sites after ship/exch etc...
  • Like
Reactions: 1
41 - 60 of 170 Posts
Top