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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally had some time to install the $16.00 Mud Flaps today. This thread will cover 2 items.


1.Installation of the flaps
2.Jacking up the car and having it on stands for all 4 wheels.




First thing. When I ordered them, I really couldn't tell from the pictures how big they were. I had concerns that they may be too big and look like something from a 18 wheeler. Luckily that thought went by the wayside. They aren't too big or too small. The finished product looks great


Overall I'm very happy with the fitment and quality of the parts. For $16.00 you really can't go wrong.


















To make things as easy as possible. I decided to remove all 4 wheels since i was going to rotate them anyway.


What makes the ECO a great gas saver is also kinda of a PIA when it comes to jacking the car up. Since most of the unibody structure is covered up by the Aero panels. After looking at it for about 15 minutes I came up with a pretty good solution to getting it up in the air.


I didn't use any area of the pinch welds as a jacking or support point. I also had zero derformation of any body structure as well.


Front of car.


Place your jack under the bolt and plate that holds the front cross member. Makes sure it's centered on the bolt and not on any part of the corresponding plate that goes off to the body of the car.





Jack the wheel up so it leaves the ground. Put your jack stand under the unibody structure closest to the pinch weld. This part of the unibody is very strong. Locate the jack away from the center and the hole in the assembly.





Rear of the car


Put your jack under the torsion bar assemnly were it meets the spring perch and jack up the car.





Put the stand on the inside of the pinch weld. This section is very strong as well.





Repeat the steps on the other side of the car unti the car is in the air and on the stands










Time to install the flaps.


Overall it was pretty straight foward. The rear flaps use one of the exising body screws to fasten. I also used a sheet metal screw in the lower sections to add some additional lateral support.


Some tips. Make sure you predrill everything and take your time especially when doing the front. The landing area for the fronts goes into the fender lip is very narrow and you could easily do something bad if you're not paying attention.


Once I was done, I took some plastip dip and coated all of the fasteners to prevent rust.


Drivers Rear





Front Driver





Front Passenger - Used a plastic zip fastener





Rear Passenger - Used a plastic zip fastener and a sheet metal screw as well.





Drivers Side













Passenger Side








 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you change the screws from the packaged screws that come with your mud guards ?

Honestly I thought about it. The ones that came with the kit were 1" long and not the 1/2" others that have received. The only place that I actually drilled into any metal, were for the 2 points for the front fender locations.

Since both plastic panels that I went through were only 1/8" thick for a total thickness of 1/4". The ones that were sent were adequate. Since I pre-drilled and hand tightened everything. I didn't have to worry about stripping anything out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I worried fanatically the first winter here with them on , always concerned with em falling off . not any more . 2 winters and all is secure .
Good to know.

I knew I had to do something. In the 2 months I've had it. I already accumulated a couple of scratches on the rockers on the passenger side from stones being kicked up.

One is so bad, it even went through the plastic tape covering the passenger door leg. I was shocked to see that. I must have picked up some kryptonite or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
You need a larger jack, and a hockey puck to prevent marring the paint.

Also, HF sells red rubber jackstand pads with a center rib for the pinch welds. They work like a charm, even if they are on the pricey side.
Yes on both.

I need to break down and get one of the aluminum racing jacks. My current one is ok on the Cruze but it's just about at it's limit when working on my Jeep. It doesn't have enough lift to deal with the suspension and getting the front end up in the air.

Funny you mention the pads, I was in there a couple of weeks ago and I meant to grab them and I forgot all about them. I still don't like using the pinch welds as a support for the stands though. I tried using the designated points on my Grand Prix and the spots deformed as soon as I put the car down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The pads work well since they convert the jackstand from one that grabs frame rails to one that can be safely used on the pinch welds. They have a cutout to not smash the welds while they support them.

For a jack, I'd get the low-profile steel jack instead of aluminum. Unless you need the portability, the HF low-profile steel jacks are beefy things that fit under the Cruze just fine while having enough lift to get high up into the air. I've had one that goes from 2.5" to 20" for 3 years now, and it's been a nice jack. They have one that goes from 2.5" to 23" which might be just what you need.
You just gave me a great idea. My 11th wedding anniversary is coming up and the theme is "Steel". Looks like I just found a great gift idea...lol
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Grrrr, want RS splash guards. :disgust (1):
Agreed. I think GM's thought process on the lack of guards for the RS models is the fact that the body kit is shaped in such a way that it's already acting as a "Quasi" mud flap. (Especially on the front.) Along with the lowered body line, anything added to the RS would probably be dragging on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
99-xc600. I suppose the link you posted on where you got them will also fit a 2014 eco. Nothing has changed on the body, right?? Because their site says it wont fit a 2014 eco, not sure why.
Yes they will fit with no issues. Not sure why the site fitment guide is like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Anytime - thanks for bringing the thread back to the top. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
After a mishap in the car wash this winter, I need to order another set. The rear driver side sheared off on a particular cold morning. It broke right at the channel section where it inserts around the body line. The mounting point was still intact.

 
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