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Chirp and clunky rattle 2014 1lt rs

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Hi all,

Well...in the video the air conditioning is on. There is a chirp all the time, and a clunky rattle when air is on, more prominent on driver's side. Radiator fan is interesting as well, on/off high speed. Not my car yet but I was at a chevy dealership to consider buying this 2014 1LT rs with 119000 mi. As is, 'wholesale to public' offering. Intake and v-cover appear newer maybe. Bottom of engine and trans coated with oil. Oil on oil cooler area. Can you see the oil coating on lines and wires below brake resevoir, looks like it sprayed there.. Drives very nicely, looks beautiful, like new interior and body. Ltft good. O2s1+2 graphs good. Passed emission in June but torque says not ready. Oil streak in turbo normal.
Thanks very much for your opinions.
chirp
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There are several problems here:

-The chirp is the crank seal. The PCV check valve in the intake manifold is missing, and the valve cover might need replacement too. www.cruzekits.com and buy the v3.4 kit to fix the intake manifold check valve, and then you'll probably need to replace the crank seal as well.

-The rad fan high-off-high means that the lower fan speeds have burnt out - it should run constantly on low speed. The fan needs to be replaced; this causes the compressor to work really hard until that high speed kicks in to lower the high side pressures.

Bottom of engine and trans coated with oil. Oil on oil cooler area.
Oil cooler seals are a common leak point. Again, address the intake manifold before fixing any oil leaks or others will appear at the next "weakest link".

I'd walk away from this car. This is at least $2k to fix in labor. The oil cooler and fan are a bit of a pain to fix but possible to DIY.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There are several problems here:

-The chirp is the crank seal. The PCV check valve in the intake manifold is missing, and the valve cover might need replacement too. www.cruzekits.com and buy the v3.4 kit to fix the intake manifold check valve, and then you'll probably need to replace the crank seal as well.

-The rad fan high-off-high means that the lower fan speeds have burnt out - it should run constantly on low speed. The fan needs to be replaced; this causes the compressor to work really hard until that high speed kicks in to lower the high side pressures.


Oil cooler seals are a common leak point. Again, address the intake manifold before fixing any oil leaks or others will appear at the next "weakest link".

I'd walk away from this car. This is at least $2k to fix in labor. The oil cooler and fan are a bit of a pain to fix but possible to DIY.
Hey thanks for the common sense and I agree as many of these issues I have diyd on my 12 eco.
-Regarding the rad fan, has anyone replaced only the fan blade/motor/resistor pack that is an ACdelco part on Rockauto? Can it be done with fan frame left in the car?
-Any ideas on the air conditioner noise besides the chirp? belt tensioner or AC clutch?
-Toward the end of the vid clip there is a low rattley noise mostly from the driver side of the engine. Would air conditioner use cause engine internals to make that noise? it is not there when air is off.
-Also, to change out oil cooler or seals, turbo must be removed correct?
-I would def install a v3.4 kit with intake on the engine. Just did one on my car.
Thank you!
 

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-Any ideas on the air conditioner noise besides the chirp? belt tensioner or AC clutch?
It's just the crank seal. AC puts higher load on the engine, which ups crankcase pressures.

-Regarding the rad fan, has anyone replaced only the fan blade/motor/resistor pack that is an ACdelco part on Rockauto?
Yes, it's been done. Not sure if you have to remove the whole thing or not.

-Toward the end of the vid clip there is a low rattley noise mostly from the driver side of the engine. Would air conditioner use cause engine internals to make that noise? it is not there when air is off.
Is it a manual? Kinda sounds like the dual mass flywheel failure mine had.

-Also, to change out oil cooler or seals, turbo must be removed correct?
Yes
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Is it a manual? Kinda sounds like the dual mass flywheel failure mine had.
It is an automatic. that's the noise that concerns me the most. I'll try to take a stick and use the "hearing rod" method to figure out where it's coming from
 

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It is an automatic. that's the noise that concerns me the most. I'll try to take a stick and use the "hearing rod" method to figure out where it's coming from
Unless it's the Ecotec cover doing it, it kinda sounds like the famous Ford broken flex plate, then. Not usually an issue with GM vehicles, especially these. There's not really anything else rotating over on that side of the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Unless it's the Ecotec cover doing it, it kinda sounds like the famous Ford broken flex plate, then. Not usually an issue with GM vehicles, especially these. There's not really anything else rotating over on that side of the motor.
Wow, never new of that issue w ford, crazy.

I confirmed that the air conditioning compressor is making that noise. Intermittent lower sounding rattley. Compressor bearings? The air cond system works very well, ice cold. Not sure if I can diy that job, I tend to not want to mess with it.
Crank seal chirp is constant once engine is op temp regardless of air on or not. Pulled dipstick to confirm. diy for sure.
??- On my mechanic's safety inspection, he noted that- "air charge cooler leaking". Translation for that? leaking what. I can't get in touch w him till next week to ask.
And also see pics- this looks like a mechanic's repair of valve cover replacement- sealant at the 2 spots right? Not original manufacturer assembly?
Thanks for helping me out, CT is the best!

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Look for a loose bolt at the top right hole of the compressor. Getting to be relatively common. Just snug it back up.

intercooler leak - boost leak? Took a hit from something? Oil leaking at air connections (PCV?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Look for a loose bolt at the top right hole of the compressor. Getting to be relatively common. Just snug it back up.

intercooler leak - boost leak? Took a hit from something? Oil leaking at air connections (PCV?)
You are saving me lots of time, I have done a lot of CT research over the last 2 years but can't always find the specifics.
- The loose bolt- totally that kind of sound, I'll check it.
-Yes, car had an accident left front so that makes sense. No codes ie. (boost leak 0299) and drivability is great, good acceleration.
We are hoping this car works out as $6995. is very good for this car in this market🤞
This dealer doesn't sell cars over 100k mi in their retail store so the "as is" designation is making me diligent to find any probs before purchase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Attached pics compare my 2012 with 2014. What reason for trans cooler lines routed on top of the fan assembly on the 2014? Does this make fan replacement more difficult? Is it so the cooled trans oil travels less pipe distance back to transmission? @jblackburn
 

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Attached pics compare my 2012 with 2014. What reason for trans cooler lines routed on top of the fan assembly on the 2014? Does this make fan replacement more difficult? Is it so the cooled trans oil travels less pipe distance back to transmission? @jblackburn
Fun fact, GM removed the auxiliary cooler at the front of the car in mid 2014 so it only has the radiator heat exchanger. I would venture a guess that this is one of those.
 

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Hmm..that is a fun fact. Our 2012 didnt have an aux cooler like pictured.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Ok, so my 2012 (11/2011 manf date) does not have an aux cooler as pictured with no lines running on top of the fan shroud correct?
The proposed 2014 LT purchase (Feb/2014 manufacture date) has an aux cooler as pictured with trans cool lines running on top of the fan shroud?
-The aux cooler on the 2014 makes the radiator fan replacement more difficult correct?
My AllData shows the same rad fan replacement procedure for both 2012 and 2014 with no mention of the aux cooler. No lines on top of fan shroud. So...
-Was the aux cooler factory installed for only 2013-2014 & 1/2?
I can see my 2012 has the 2 plastic cooler line retainer brackets on top of the fan shroud.
The fun fact is intriquing! well whats up with that?
-Am I over simplifying this?: Is it possible that the compressor makes noise working too hard without fan speeds 1&2 until the speed 3 turns on- compressor quiets down. Fan speed 3 shuts off and compressor has to work hard again and makes the noise? Can this be the noise cycle I am hearing, fan speed 3 on and off with compressor noise increasing when fan is off?
I agree that chirp is crank seal.
sorry to be pia and a bit nieve...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
-The rad fan high-off-high means that the lower fan speeds have burnt out - it should run constantly on low speed. The fan needs to be replaced; this causes the compressor to work really hard until that high speed kicks in to lower the high side pressures.
...And I re-read your post to see that you have already answered my question :rolleyes:I have too many questions and lack basic automobile repair knowledge, thx for the patience
 

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Hmm, maybe it's mid-2014 they introduced the aux cooler. We discovered at some point during the 2014 model year with another member that there are two designs of radiator for that specific year.

Sorry, my 1st gen knowledge is mostly centered around the manual trans model I had.

In any case, you may be able to finagle that shroud/fan around the cooler lines without disconnecting, but it may be easier just to disconnect them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Please no apologies from any of you "founding fathers"! You save the day repair after repair and if I had searched a little bit, I would have discovered fan/compressor threads/posts by you and others from 2012!
The Alldata repair instructions for 2014 do include an aux cooler removal but not as a step for fan removal. I interpreted the illustration as not showing the lines running on top of the shroud. Anyway I think I can perform the job and learn a lot in the process.
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
@jblackburn @thebac

Well, after much inspecting on the car thanks to the dealer allowing access, my daughter purchased the 2014 1lt rs. Prob get it home end of the week and start updating. 1st session:
Obvious oil/filter, 3rd brakelight repair, thermostat, radiator & outlet sensors, resevoir/cap, new coolant, gas cap, fixkit, investigate fan issue, wiper blades.
I originally joined CT in 2019 because of a cooling issue with my 12 eco and the engine fan was part of that. I never replaced the fan but after getting the cooling system back to normal the fan operates normally as intended. Hoping we'll gave some luck w this car as well. Also need new drivers door opening, weatherstrip, body side... any ideas?
I'll start appropriate threads as we weed through the updates. Hoping my daughter will join CT as well.
Dave
 

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The incredibly small oil cooler/ oil filter mount beside the turbo is yet another design flaw from Chevy I think. I found a YouTube video of removing the oil cooler block and replacing it with a solid block that has connections for a remote after market oil cooler that I am going to try. That looks like a good add on. See Chevy oil cooler upgrade part one by Menace Short.
 
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