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Chirp and clunky rattle 2014 1lt rs

1290 Views 32 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Baldrico1
Hi all,

Well...in the video the air conditioning is on. There is a chirp all the time, and a clunky rattle when air is on, more prominent on driver's side. Radiator fan is interesting as well, on/off high speed. Not my car yet but I was at a chevy dealership to consider buying this 2014 1LT rs with 119000 mi. As is, 'wholesale to public' offering. Intake and v-cover appear newer maybe. Bottom of engine and trans coated with oil. Oil on oil cooler area. Can you see the oil coating on lines and wires below brake resevoir, looks like it sprayed there.. Drives very nicely, looks beautiful, like new interior and body. Ltft good. O2s1+2 graphs good. Passed emission in June but torque says not ready. Oil streak in turbo normal.
Thanks very much for your opinions.
chirp
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There are several problems here:

-The chirp is the crank seal. The PCV check valve in the intake manifold is missing, and the valve cover might need replacement too. www.cruzekits.com and buy the v3.4 kit to fix the intake manifold check valve, and then you'll probably need to replace the crank seal as well.

-The rad fan high-off-high means that the lower fan speeds have burnt out - it should run constantly on low speed. The fan needs to be replaced; this causes the compressor to work really hard until that high speed kicks in to lower the high side pressures.


Oil cooler seals are a common leak point. Again, address the intake manifold before fixing any oil leaks or others will appear at the next "weakest link".

I'd walk away from this car. This is at least $2k to fix in labor. The oil cooler and fan are a bit of a pain to fix but possible to DIY.
Hey thanks for the common sense and I agree as many of these issues I have diyd on my 12 eco.
-Regarding the rad fan, has anyone replaced only the fan blade/motor/resistor pack that is an ACdelco part on Rockauto? Can it be done with fan frame left in the car?
-Any ideas on the air conditioner noise besides the chirp? belt tensioner or AC clutch?
-Toward the end of the vid clip there is a low rattley noise mostly from the driver side of the engine. Would air conditioner use cause engine internals to make that noise? it is not there when air is off.
-Also, to change out oil cooler or seals, turbo must be removed correct?
-I would def install a v3.4 kit with intake on the engine. Just did one on my car.
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Is it a manual? Kinda sounds like the dual mass flywheel failure mine had.
It is an automatic. that's the noise that concerns me the most. I'll try to take a stick and use the "hearing rod" method to figure out where it's coming from
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Unless it's the Ecotec cover doing it, it kinda sounds like the famous Ford broken flex plate, then. Not usually an issue with GM vehicles, especially these. There's not really anything else rotating over on that side of the motor.
Wow, never new of that issue w ford, crazy.

I confirmed that the air conditioning compressor is making that noise. Intermittent lower sounding rattley. Compressor bearings? The air cond system works very well, ice cold. Not sure if I can diy that job, I tend to not want to mess with it.
Crank seal chirp is constant once engine is op temp regardless of air on or not. Pulled dipstick to confirm. diy for sure.
??- On my mechanic's safety inspection, he noted that- "air charge cooler leaking". Translation for that? leaking what. I can't get in touch w him till next week to ask.
And also see pics- this looks like a mechanic's repair of valve cover replacement- sealant at the 2 spots right? Not original manufacturer assembly?
Thanks for helping me out, CT is the best!

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Look for a loose bolt at the top right hole of the compressor. Getting to be relatively common. Just snug it back up.

intercooler leak - boost leak? Took a hit from something? Oil leaking at air connections (PCV?)
You are saving me lots of time, I have done a lot of CT research over the last 2 years but can't always find the specifics.
- The loose bolt- totally that kind of sound, I'll check it.
-Yes, car had an accident left front so that makes sense. No codes ie. (boost leak 0299) and drivability is great, good acceleration.
We are hoping this car works out as $6995. is very good for this car in this market🤞
This dealer doesn't sell cars over 100k mi in their retail store so the "as is" designation is making me diligent to find any probs before purchase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Attached pics compare my 2012 with 2014. What reason for trans cooler lines routed on top of the fan assembly on the 2014? Does this make fan replacement more difficult? Is it so the cooled trans oil travels less pipe distance back to transmission? @jblackburn
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Ok, so my 2012 (11/2011 manf date) does not have an aux cooler as pictured with no lines running on top of the fan shroud correct?
The proposed 2014 LT purchase (Feb/2014 manufacture date) has an aux cooler as pictured with trans cool lines running on top of the fan shroud?
-The aux cooler on the 2014 makes the radiator fan replacement more difficult correct?
My AllData shows the same rad fan replacement procedure for both 2012 and 2014 with no mention of the aux cooler. No lines on top of fan shroud. So...
-Was the aux cooler factory installed for only 2013-2014 & 1/2?
I can see my 2012 has the 2 plastic cooler line retainer brackets on top of the fan shroud.
The fun fact is intriquing! well whats up with that?
-Am I over simplifying this?: Is it possible that the compressor makes noise working too hard without fan speeds 1&2 until the speed 3 turns on- compressor quiets down. Fan speed 3 shuts off and compressor has to work hard again and makes the noise? Can this be the noise cycle I am hearing, fan speed 3 on and off with compressor noise increasing when fan is off?
I agree that chirp is crank seal.
sorry to be pia and a bit nieve...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
-The rad fan high-off-high means that the lower fan speeds have burnt out - it should run constantly on low speed. The fan needs to be replaced; this causes the compressor to work really hard until that high speed kicks in to lower the high side pressures.
...And I re-read your post to see that you have already answered my question :rolleyes:I have too many questions and lack basic automobile repair knowledge, thx for the patience
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Please no apologies from any of you "founding fathers"! You save the day repair after repair and if I had searched a little bit, I would have discovered fan/compressor threads/posts by you and others from 2012!
The Alldata repair instructions for 2014 do include an aux cooler removal but not as a step for fan removal. I interpreted the illustration as not showing the lines running on top of the shroud. Anyway I think I can perform the job and learn a lot in the process.
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
@jblackburn @thebac

Well, after much inspecting on the car thanks to the dealer allowing access, my daughter purchased the 2014 1lt rs. Prob get it home end of the week and start updating. 1st session:
Obvious oil/filter, 3rd brakelight repair, thermostat, radiator & outlet sensors, resevoir/cap, new coolant, gas cap, fixkit, investigate fan issue, wiper blades.
I originally joined CT in 2019 because of a cooling issue with my 12 eco and the engine fan was part of that. I never replaced the fan but after getting the cooling system back to normal the fan operates normally as intended. Hoping we'll gave some luck w this car as well. Also need new drivers door opening, weatherstrip, body side... any ideas?
I'll start appropriate threads as we weed through the updates. Hoping my daughter will join CT as well.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Thanks for the reasonable advice applicable in many circumstances for sure. To be a bit more clear from my previous posts, We purchased the Cruze from a nearby Chevy dealer who I've had good luck with for a number of years. Top notch repair/parts dept and highly rated all around. They sell new, certified pre-owned, pre-owned, and wholesale to the public. This car was wholesale to the public, it's a trade in, not serviced and available as is. Like for sale from a private owner. The wholesale cars are 3995 to about 25000, my purchase was 6895. I had unlimited access to check out the car, I brought it to an independent mechanic and got advice from a mechanic friend. All said and done, It'll be a great 1st car for my daughter. I've also owned and maintained a 12 cruze eco for 7 years and already know the drill, just gotta pass on what I've learned to her.
Price? Shopping in Ct for the past 30-40 days has been frustrating to say the least. I know used car prices will come down eventually but she needed a car now. We saw some really hidious cars in the 5-8k range, haha so shiney but just crap.
Anyway, i pickup the car tomorrow and I'll post some picures and post updates on the reconditioning work we do. As always, thanks for all comments. It really helps my diy efforts in keeping our cars on the road.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Here's the shiney view of the 2014. Felt good on the road. I'll dive into maintenance this weekend, oil/filter, replace all plastic cooling system parts and sensors, I'm hoping for a change in the rad fan operation if either of the old sensors are bad but we'll see. Then car leaves for a week w no air cond use till we figure out or replace the fan. Pcv fix kit, crank seal, serp belt and tensioner is another weekend. I think learning how to use an air condition test guage set would be worthwhile, buy or maybe rent?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I'll dive into maintenance this weekend, oil/filter, replace all plastic cooling system parts and sensors, I'm hoping for a change in the rad fan operation if either of the old sensors are bad but we'll see. Then car leaves for a week w no air cond use till we figure out or replace the fan.
Ok I dove into the oil change, (it's Castrol Edge Extended w GM filter for me lately), new thermostat, outlet, resevoir/cap, return hose, sensors( I love the radiator sensor placement on 2014, upgrade from 2012) fresh 50/50 dexcool, T oil feed, air filter and a bottom of engine oil/dirt cleanup effort w rags. Then college daughter blasted off for college, but pledged to not use the AC until fan is resolved.
There was no change in the rad fan/AC behavior with new sensors installed so a new fan is next.
Question is has anyone changed out only the GM motor/blade/w wired connector/resistor pack? I want to stay with GM parts especially electrical components. The shroud looks fine however...but how would I know if this broken fan is a GM fan assembly? Labels or id numbers? Will the new GM parts install easily if it's an aftermarket?
Rockauto has the GM guts for $153.00. I should order a couple replacement relays just in case.
I received the fixkit v3.4 and will install it with manifold on the engine.
Before winter I'll need to buy a passenger front wheel well and front deflector shield. Any suggestion on the best body pushpin/torx connector assortments to buy?
When I do the wheel well, I hope to also replace crank seal/serp belt/tensioner.
I looked at the plugs and all looked like attached pic, but I could see a carbon buildup on piston tops w flashlight. I'll replace plugs when college girl shows up at dad's garage....
TIA for comments, suggestions

I own a 2013 Cruze lt and on my first engine. yes first. Mine had a chirp. Mine sounded very similar to yours and was because the spark plugs had loosened. When I torqued them down again the noise went away.
I did take out the spark plugs and although they were not torqued properly, they were quiet...chirp is still the crank seal but thanks for suggestion
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
So, found your thread and figured these could help you out...
Thanks very much! Quality photo!
I was curious about the 3 oem motor mount bolts/screws, and magnified they appear to be torx which will be an advantage with a ratchet in the tight space.
This is the rockauto GM "guts" I'll hope will work.


Also, relays...Quite a price range, I'll figure this out when the car finds it's way home

I will update as I go along.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Hi all, new issue that daughter described: when accelerating, more so uphill and only city driving speed, she hears a "liquid trickling sound" generally on driver side, from dash area. I have not heard it yet because I have old ears...
Does not change with heater control adjustment. Air conditioner is off. Engine temp does not affect occurrence. Just did a coolant change but the sound was there before the coolant change.
no video at this time...
Educated guesses?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Just discovered that the top of fan connector cover comes off. I tested fan speeds and 1&2 have failed. Only had the car for the time it took for 2 loads of daughter laundry so will carry on next visit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Update;
Since last post on this thread I installed new rad fan, top transmission oil line fitting and cruzefixkit. Fix kit is an enjoyable job. Rad fan was a pia because my original idea of changing out the fan guts with new GM guts fell through because the failed fan was an aftermarket. Different bolt pattern. So it had to be a Duralast. Sunday last minute purchase. I'll get a GM shroud to match my GM blade/motor/resistor and put it in the car eventually as I don't expect the duralast to"last".
Anyone reading this that is worried about the disassembly of bumper cover etc, don't be. It was very straight forward if you just follow instructions and take your time. The aftermarket shroud was a pia because it was too wide by 1/2" to fit the bottom snap-in brackets on the radiator. I had to modify by removing a bunch of plastic, it went in and out 3-4 times before a good fit. Also, in the 2014 we have has the trans cooler lines entering the radiator on the pass side and they are routed on top of the rad fan shroud, made it interesting but they were moveable because of the rubber hose segments that ran the length of the fan top.
Next job will be the crank seal. I have a HF Bauer corded 8.5 amp impact wrench ordered and I'll get a 14mm 12 point impact socket for the torx head bolt. Or a set. I don't see a set of impact female etorx sockets anywhere, ideas? Also, is it advisable to replace pulley when replacing seal? I have a new serp belt and tensioner as well.
Just getting over a 3 week car repair delay as I injured my right hand ring finger/4 stitches but it's on the mend.(air conditioner vs cellar floor)😵
will update and tia for advice
 
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