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Clicking sound from under dash

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I'm not sure if I should post this in the service section or engine/tech but here it goes. I was drove about half way home from work (28 mile trip) and stopped to get gas. After filling and turning the car on I noticed a clicking noise coming from the dash where it meets the glass. It seemed to go away so I ignored it. Then a few hours later I had to go to the grocery store and when I jumped in I noticed the same noise. About every second it does it, and sounds similar to the abs check or whatever it is that goes off shortly after turning the car on and driving away. I crawled under the dash and that is definitely where it is coming from. It was a lot louder down there but I couldn't pinpoint the location, just the area around the gas pedal. I pulled the negative wire from the battery and left it off for 10-15 minutes and it went away, but I just started it up for a few minutes.

Also, yesterday when I started my car the radiator fan went full blast and stayed that way for the entire drive to work. And after turning the engine off it has worked normal since.

Just looking for your guys' thoughts, with these two being so close together it just weirds me out. I have to take me car in within the next few thousand miles to get something fixed before the 36k warranty ends so I'm thinking of just waiting till then and mentioning it to the dealer.

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My guess is the HVAC control for the clicking noise. I think I remember an old thread about it and the fix was a reflash. There's another thread about a hyperactive fan you could search for. Don't know if the two things are related or not.
 

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A constant clicking, or it just makes noise for a few seconds upon starting the car and it's gone?

I've had problems with stuck damper doors in electronic climate control systems. The motor will keep trying to move the flap til it overheats, then stop, then try again. It sounds like a midget with a chisel inside the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My guess is the HVAC control for the clicking noise. I think I remember an old thread about it and the fix was a reflash. There's another thread about a hyperactive fan you could search for. Don't know if the two things are related or not.
I remember reading about the hyperactive fan thread, but mine was full blast the entire time, never shutting off. Ill have to read the thread again to double check.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A constant clicking, or it just makes noise for a few seconds upon starting the car and it's gone?

I've had problems with stuck damper doors in electronic climate control systems. The motor will keep trying to move the flap til it overheats, then stop, then try again. It sounds like a midget with a chisel inside the dash.
Constant clicking. Did it for hours, even with the car turned off. That could have been it and unplugging the car reset it. But it sounded to me more like a buzz/click, and once a second or so.

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If take it right away if you're near 36k.

Does anyone know if dealer will continue working on something after the warranty expires if brought up before.
 

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I'm not sure if I should post this in the service section or engine/tech but here it goes. I was drove about half way home from work (28 mile trip) and stopped to get gas. After filling and turning the car on I noticed a clicking noise coming from the dash where it meets the glass. It seemed to go away so I ignored it. Then a few hours later I had to go to the grocery store and when I jumped in I noticed the same noise. About every second it does it, and sounds similar to the abs check or whatever it is that goes off shortly after turning the car on and driving away. I crawled under the dash and that is definitely where it is coming from. It was a lot louder down there but I couldn't pinpoint the location, just the area around the gas pedal. I pulled the negative wire from the battery and left it off for 10-15 minutes and it went away, but I just started it up for a few minutes.

Also, yesterday when I started my car the radiator fan went full blast and stayed that way for the entire drive to work. And after turning the engine off it has worked normal since.

Just looking for your guys' thoughts, with these two being so close together it just weirds me out. I have to take me car in within the next few thousand miles to get something fixed before the 36k warranty ends so I'm thinking of just waiting till then and mentioning it to the dealer.

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Chevyderek72,
I do understand your concerns with this. I would like you to keep me posted on the progress with your dealer. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me anytime.
Thank you,
Stacy Chevrolet Customer Service
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I took it into the dealer and they could not reproduce the problem, which sounds normal as nothing has happened since. They did mention I shouldn't have disconnected the batter just in case there was a code, but I know for next time. It is in the system now for the future and everything is working so I'm happy with it.

On a side note I had to take it in because I caught a nail in my right rear. My dad drove down from the Chevy dealer he works at picked me up so I could drop him off and take his car. Which was nice because he picked my car up and had everything looked at. Pretty convenient, other than being an hour late to work.

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If take it right away if you're near 36k.

Does anyone know if dealer will continue working on something after the warranty expires if brought up before.
It really depends on the dealer. They will have to get a warranty extension from GM, but some will do it if you can document when a problem started and weren't able to get to the dealership sooner. I had a Pontiac dealership do this for me years ago when I first noticed a problem in West Virginia while driving home to DC. Between the time I documented the problem in WV and the time I got the van to the dealership I had run over the mileage limits. The dealership got GM to cover it under warranty since I had basically driven to the dealership with a very (less than 5 mile) reroute to my house in Dale City.
 

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I took it into the dealer and they could not reproduce the problem, which sounds normal as nothing has happened since. They did mention I shouldn't have disconnected the batter just in case there was a code, but I know for next time. It is in the system now for the future and everything is working so I'm happy with it.

On a side note I had to take it in because I caught a nail in my right rear. My dad drove down from the Chevy dealer he works at picked me up so I could drop him off and take his car. Which was nice because he picked my car up and had everything looked at. Pretty convenient, other than being an hour late to work.

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Chevyderek72,
Thank you for the update on this. I am happy to hear that everything is working properly. If you ever have any other questions, comments or concerns please feel free to contact me anytime.
Thank you,
Stacy Chevrolet Customer Service
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Chevyderek72,
Thank you for the update on this. I am happy to hear that everything is working properly. If you ever have any other questions, comments or concerns please feel free to contact me anytime.
Thank you,
Stacy Chevrolet Customer Service
Thank you for the support Stacy, will do.

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I am having this issue right now. The sound seems to be coming from the blower motor. Everytime my girlfriend turns off her 2013 Chevy Sonic, it makes a winding and clicking noise for probably around 5-10 seconds and then stops. Sometimes it would also do it when I open the passenger door. Blower motor works fine and blows good, but it keeps making that noise.
 

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I am having this issue right now. The sound seems to be coming from the blower motor. Everytime my girlfriend turns off her 2013 Chevy Sonic, it makes a winding and clicking noise for probably around 5-10 seconds and then stops. Sometimes it would also do it when I open the passenger door. Blower motor works fine and blows good, but it keeps making that noise.
Welcome Aboard!(y)

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Sonic here.

Click, tick and rattle cause and fix list
 
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