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Discussion Starter #21
I thought I'd add to the conversation as I'm experiencing the same issue with my '17 diesel, 43K miles. Pedal occasionally sticks to the floor and won't come back on its own. I can lift the pedal up with my toe but hydraulic pressure does not return to the pedal.
I have the separate issue of how the clutch doesn't actually engage: I sometimes cannot put the shifter into gear when the pedal is pushed to the floor (and then it also won't return on its own). For me, it's not just that the clutch pedal is sticking. It's that the pedal is occasionally doing nothing to engage the clutch at all.

If the problem keeps returning, I'll have Chevrolet roadside assistance tow the car to a dealership 2-3 times a week as necessary. I have a spare car to borrow from my parents, so I'll keep on repeating this over and over again until they decide they don't want to do it any longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
"The clutch is a wear and tear part" they kept saying over and over.
I got that similar quote a few times: "The clutch is a wear item." I had to repeatedly explain that the clutch itself (the disc) is not worn out or malfunctioning. It's the parts that actuate the clutch that are not working.
 

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It's sounds like the master cylinder to me. When master cylinders leak they don't build pressure , they simply "leak" past the seals back into the unpressurized fluid reservoir side. When slave cylinder leak and don't build pressure, the fluid has to escape the system, and evinces as an external leak typically.

Just like you can have no brake pedal because you have a bad master cylinder or a bad caliper...if the caliper is reasom your brake pedal drops you have a fluid leak. If it's the master cylinder it can leak internally.

It sounds like your dealers aren't diagnosing anything, merely looking for bulletins.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
It sounds like your dealers aren't diagnosing anything, merely looking for bulletins.
That seems to be exactly what they are doing. The dealership in Vermont handed me the printed TSB and billed me $133.75 when I'm sure they didn't take anything apart.

The dealership in Illinois billed me $79.99 for the diagnosis where the paperwork claims the technician found debris in the orifice as per the TSB. Whether that's true or it's copy/paste from the TSB and they just did the repair on the TSB, I don't know.

It just aggravates me that I specifically told them THREE TIMES that I had two separate problems, and the second problem is one that isn't part of the problem on the TSB. They ignored that and never once diagnosed or fixed that problem.
 

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It definitely sucks. Additionally, just in case you didn't know...so you can mentally prepare for them...master cylinder isn't covered either.
 

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On my 2018 they had no valid reason saying the clutch and slave cylinder are wear and tear parts to weezle out of warranty work. My car had 15,000 miles when the clutch took a dump. They also replaced the slave cylinder and flywheel. No mention or documentation of replacing the clutch line. So far so good. We will see if the problem returns. Even if I replace the line myself will it be the same faulty line?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
On my 2018 they had no valid reason saying the clutch and slave cylinder are wear and tear parts to weezle out of warranty work. My car had 15,000 miles when the clutch took a dump.
You had the 3 year, 36,000 mile bumper-to-bumper warranty to cover those items.

I'm at 50,956 miles, so the powertrain warranty is all that I have left.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
When slave cylinder leak and don't build pressure, the fluid has to escape the system, and evinces as an external leak typically.
I can't be certain some fluid wasn't leaking. While on vacation I took a look under the hood to check the fluid level of the clutch. That's when I found out that the fluid reservoir is shared with the brakes, because there aren't separate fluid reservoirs. It was night and the light wasn't good, but it was possible that the fluid level seemed to be low (down near or slightly below the MINIMUM marking on the reservoir). I never checked again in daylight because I just crossed my fingers that the car would make it home and I'd deal with it here.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
It definitely sucks. Additionally, just in case you didn't know...so you can mentally prepare for them...master cylinder isn't covered either.
This morning the dealership service manager says he has the technician repeatedly bleeding the hydraulic line to the clutch. He says the technician believes when he opened up the hydraulic system to replace the pipe and elbow, that air bubbles trapped in the line are causing the clutch to not work.

That still doesn't explain why it wasn't working BEFORE they opened up the system, and why it was working fine when the technician tested the car before giving it back to me, and why the car drove fine for the 12 miles that I took it home.

What he wants to do is bleed the car a few times today, let it sit over the weekend, and then test drive it Monday morning to ensure that all the air bubbles are bled out of the hydraulic system.

This sounds like it is not going to fix the problem.
 

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This morning the dealership service manager says he has the technician repeatedly bleeding the hydraulic line to the clutch. He says the technician believes when he opened up the hydraulic system to replace the pipe and elbow, that air bubbles trapped in the line are causing the clutch to not work.

That still doesn't explain why it wasn't working BEFORE they opened up the system, and why it was working fine when the technician tested the car before giving it back to me, and why the car drove fine for the 12 miles that I took it home.

What he wants to do is bleed the car a few times today, let it sit over the weekend, and then test drive it Monday morning to ensure that all the air bubbles are bled out of the hydraulic system.

This sounds like it is not going to fix the problem.
Sounds like a hail mary to avoid a costly repair that the dealership does not want to be stuck with.
 

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Replacing the slave cylinder is a pain in the neck and they're doing everything that they can to avoid it. I can only speak from my experience, but nothing worked to fix the issues with mine until the final repair, when the slave cylinder was replaced. To recap:
Symptoms: clutch not engaging, pedal on floor
repair 1: replace master cylinder and actuator pipe.
repair 2: replace actuator pipe again.
repair 3: replace actuator cylinder

After repairs 1 and 2, the car was fine for hundreds to thousands of miles, but once the clutch started not to engage a bit, it went to fully non-functional fairly quickly. After the third repair things have held up. Fingers crossed that that was it, and that you're able to convince the dealer and GM to do the right thing for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Sounds like a hail mary to avoid a costly repair that the dealership does not want to be stuck with.
The service manager did tell me "The things we are doing are what is required by GM to work the problem. If we just replace the slave cylinder without doing their trouble-shooting steps, we get stuck with the cost of that."

He also told me the technician working on the car is one of their most experienced and "He drives a diesel Cruze, too." So I ask: Is his a manual transmission? "Well, no..." So I ask: How many manual transmissions does he regularly work on? "Well, not many..."

I could have just bought a Honda Civic and not had this trouble.
 

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There's so few manual transmission diesel Cruzes you can't really be upset that people don't have experience with them. But experience and proper diagnostics are two different things. I've never worked on something til the first time I have, doesn't mean I csrew up everything once.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Replacing the slave cylinder is a pain in the neck and they're doing everything that they can to avoid it. I can only speak from my experience, but nothing worked to fix the issues with mine until the final repair, when the slave cylinder was replaced. To recap:
Symptoms: clutch not engaging, pedal on floor
repair 1: replace master cylinder and actuator pipe.
repair 2: replace actuator pipe again.
repair 3: replace actuator cylinder

After repairs 1 and 2, the car was fine for hundreds to thousands of miles, but once the clutch started not to engage a bit, it went to fully non-functional fairly quickly. After the third repair things have held up. Fingers crossed that that was it, and that you're able to convince the dealer and GM to do the right thing for you.
If it's the slave cylinder that is bad, I expect a replacement of the master cylinder won't fix the problem and it will manifest itself again within a day or two. It took 12 miles and 1 hour to make it happen again, so if the dealership insists on replacing the master cylinder I think it will be back to the clutch not working again the next morning or the morning after.

With some luck, they can do all their BS drain & fill of the fluid all they want and the MFing thing does it to them again Monday morning when they go to test drive it.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Phone call from the dealership today: They have been bleeding the hydraulic clutch exactly as GM technical is telling them and are apparently not fixing the issue. The service manager said they're waiting to hear more but likely won't have the car finished today, which is not a huge problem.

It sounds like they are desperately trying not to change the slave cylinder for obvious reasons (warranty $$$).

I'm honestly surprised that they didn't try to stick the excuse in there about needing to change the master cylinder (at my cost). Maybe that will come tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Phone call from the dealership today: They say there is an o-ring where the elbow plugs into the hydraulic circuit that they are replacing because when the technician wiggles the elbow back and forth as someone is stepping on the clutch it lets air bubbles into the circuit. They said they aren't 99% sure that will fix the problem but it's something they need to try.

Notably, it took them all day to throw this Hail Mary pass. I wonder how many more things they are going to come up with before they actually bite it and replace the slave cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Phone call from the dealer this morning: They are ordering a slave cylinder to replace it like I told them to do a week ago.

I tell people all the time: do things my way the first time when I request them and the world wiil be a better place and you will save time, money, and aggravation. I don't know how much time they have invested in chasing every problem that they can bill me for to try to avoid the problem that is warranty work, but they're eating all that labor.

Now the big questions I have are how much time it takes to change the slave cylinder? Seems like it's a big job by the way they are trying to avoid it. Do they have to drop the transmission to swap that part out? If so, I'm going to ask them to put a new clutch disc in (I will pay for the part) just to freshen it up at the 51,000 mile mark. If they're going to drop the transmission, might as well put that in there while it is opened up. Might have them check the dual-mass flywheel for defects or anything that looks/feels funny, because if it's going or gone I'd have them replace that as well if there is a newer part with updates.
 

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I had this exact same problem. They wound up changing the slave cylinder. Total time from fault to fix was 3 months. Car was under a power train warranty but not bumper to bumper. They told me debris in the system and I told them that I didnt put it there and the system had never been opened since I picked up the car with 5 miles on it. So if there was debris it was manufacture defect. They changed the pipe, and elbow per the tsb and the problem returned the next day. I drove it back to the dealership without the clutch working(about 60 miles.) The slave cylinder is covered under the power train warranty and specifically listed in the warranty manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
They told me debris in the system and I told them that I didnt put it there and the system had never been opened since I picked up the car with 5 miles on it. So if there was debris it was manufacture defect.
This is the exact reason GM is probably getting a small claims lawsuit to recover costs on this issue. The TSB was Feb 2018 (a month before I picked up my car) so that's right around the time that 2016-2017 cars were showing up in shops with this problem. I'm almost certain my car was already manufactured by the date of the TSB, but there is a small chance it was made a week or two after. Presumably GM spent the rest of model year 2018 making new cars with parts they knew were defective and then they never issued a recall to fix all of them with new parts.

This was a wonderful excuse about how they replaced the elbow and line (and then some o-ring they claim was leaking) because "Somehow air is getting into the line after we opened the system up." Well, how about you explain why this was a problem before you did anything to open the system up? Funny, about that.

Meanwhile, the car was still on the lift at the shop when I went there today (where it's been parked for a week). The guy said they had the part but the technician wasn't working this Saturday. I asked if another technician could finish it up and he said they were busy doing oil changes as that is what they focus on for Saturday mornings when their service department is open (closed on Sundays). So, now I have a car that will be possibly fixed on Monday and it will be sitting at their dealership ANOTHER WEEK because I don't live here in town with my parents and I have a job to go to. I have to borrow their car for another week until I will be back this way again. I've got a car sitting for at least 2 weeks (but I still have to make a payment on it this month) and I've got the expenses of using my parents' car because the dealership cannot give me a loaner because they are not 100% absolutely certain that the warranty repair is what is causing the issue (and they only give loaner cars for warranty repairs). 57.5¢ per mile (IRS reimbursement rate for 2020) is getting added to the small claims case to compensate my parents.

There is a chance they'll still have to stick me with a repair bill to replace the master cylinder, because if debris in the hydraulic system is a problem it could be debris that has damaged the seals on the master cylinder. If I can get the technician to put it in writing on the invoice that is the problem, that master cylinder repair is going in the small claims case.
 
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