What book are we reading today? One says cold air is more dense increasing the density of the AF ratio in the combustion chamber to get more power. Another says the air should be preheated to atomized the fuel for more power.
My old 454 uses the latter, preheats the air to 160 degrees F, and if that hose falls off from the exhaust manifold, this engine runs like crap. Turbo in the Cruze also preheats the air, to the extent in needs a cooler first. Did the engineers get this wrong?
Even with fuel injection before the intake valve, that gas has to be atomized. Dropplets don't burn.
Can only play with two parameters, first is the AF ratio, too lean, will burn up your exhaust valves, too rich, will burn out your catalytic converter. Second is ignition timing, see most chips state to use the highest octane fuel available, with the anti-knock sensor, already get this with stock, too much advance and will get preignition that will wreck your pistons, too little, wasting fuel like crazy. Shortens the power stroke cycle.
Then you read your engine ain't getting enough air, what about the restrictions in the engine itself and the valve timing? Law says you gotta have a catalytic converter. If caught without one, will be a $25,000 fine. Catalytic converter in a series circuit exhaust system has the most restrictive action.
Cruze is already kicking out 1.6 HP per cube, not bad for a cheap engine with a turbo boost as high as a peak of 35 psi. Any more of this will break the pistons and the connecting rods.
Depends on your goals, one thing for sure, will get more noise, another is risking getting your 100K mile/5 year warranty voided. Yet another depending on your region is not passing the emissions test.
I will be removing my Injen for an upcoming multi state camping trip. Removing it so I don't run into dealership problems in other states. Good chance I won't be putting it back on when we are done. Nice engine bling though....sucking air noise gets old.....Its currently set up as CAI.
You can find some used ones for some decent prices in the for sale section.
I've viewed several dyno charts that established that a short ram is slightly better for peak horsepower production....but very slight. You can also cross shallow puddles without fear. [Heck], you can cross deep puddles with no fear. The trade-off is that it will heatsoak at a long traffic light and you will have no power on a hot summer day until you get going fast enough to get some cooler air under the hood.
Dyno charts I viewed typically showed a wider spread of power for the Cold Air Intake. It allows power to be made earlier than the short ram, but comes out a little lower on peak. Probably for the same reason that the Honda B18C1 switches to short intake runners at high rpm (it is a cool engine. you can hear the buzz of the intake butterflies switch just before it changes to the big cam lobes and gets loud) I never had any sort of heat soak problems with the cold air intakes I owned (ED3 Civic: generic - EH9 Civic:AEM - Mazda6 DC Sports)
But then there's the water issue.:uhh:
I had my Mazda stall out while traversing a low water crossing. First thought, "Oh No! what have I done? I have hydrolocked my car out here in the boondocks!" Coast to a stop as far over as the 1.5 lane rural road will let me and rest my head against the steering wheel dreading the inevitible "CLICK" of an MZI V6 with cylinders full of water when I turn the key. To my surprise it actually turned over freely. Didn't start for a bit. Water logged MAF or something. Never did find out what made it stall.
Puddles are not your friend.
If I ever did it again...and I probably will, I would have a short ram like the K&N with an improved cold air box. The K&N has a rudimentary heat blocking shield of sorts but I doubt that will do much in heavy traffic on a 110° day.
I don't know anyone who had any real gains on a gasoline engine from a G-force chip.