Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Read Only
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,383 Posts
I believe there is an air bleed screw on the passenger side radiator tank near the top. The top line that goes back to the top of the radiator bottle should vent most of the air in the system. However, I haven't done this so I'm not sure.

I believe I looked at the drain valve while under the car the last time, and I believe it looks like what is shown in the youtube video.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,003 Posts
Is this method of using deionized water to flush or clean the coolant system generally accepted?
Good question. On the plus side, it does clean the old stuff out. On the downside, any water left in dilutes the new coolant.

Personally, unless something has happened to make me question the quality of the coolant, I'd skip the flush and just add new.
 

·
Read Only
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys. With that being said, my coolant is very dark and does require changing. Is there a process for bleeding air? Haven't put eyes on the air bleed screw, but once located I would imagine you would want to bleed air while the car is running?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,383 Posts
Moobox-

The plastic screw on the coolant tank drivers side can be loosened while you fill it with the engine off. Then when you start the car at idle you can open that bleeder screw and let the air out.

While I haven't done the Cruze, I have done this with other GM cars with the radiator tank vents. I'm not sure I'm a fan of reving the car as high as that youtube video and squeezing hoses. I won't want something to let go.

With the engine off the radiator hoses especially the top one near the drivers side, should be pretty firm if you have no air in the hose. If its soft, then you have air in the hoses.

Theretically this air should be burped out the top of the water outlet drivers side, back up the small line to the coolant bottle. Obermd has commented that the flow through this line is actually pretty fast with the engine running.

Air can be tricky and take a lot of time though. I purchased this from Amazon, and it makes life really easy. I gave up owning and maintaining two Oldsmobile Intrigues..

https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000...?ie=UTF8&qid=1472073167&sr=8-1&keywords=UView

Look on Amazon, and they do make a plastic version. Expensive yes, cheaper than a dealership, who may or may not actually fix the problem, in my opinion yes..

I've had mine for about 6 years now, and I think I paid around $100 shipped. I see it's up to $116-$125 now. Definately a good tool and works as advertised.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bostonboy

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,596 Posts
The fill instructions are to fill the tank and leave it open. Then start the engine and let it idle. Fill as needed to maintain coolant level.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,003 Posts
my coolant is very dark and does require changing.
Why is it dark? It may be due to a dye that was added to help find leaks. I'm not aware of coolant changing color just because of age. If it's dark for other reasons, you've got problems.

However, the manual does suggest changing it every 5 years, so it sounds like yours is due. My understanding is that the coolant should be changed to renew the rust inhibitors - so your engine doesn't corrode from the inside. There might be some water pump lubricant in there as well.
 

·
Read Only
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks ChevyGuy, obermd, carbon02 and philb!

Hoping the discoloration of the coolant is from an additive of some sort. Going to go buy some 50/50 mix today and get this done over the weekend. I've located the bleeder valve on the radiator I believe.

Have a question about capacity though. In the owners manual it states that the coolant liquid capacity is 5.5L. Is that 5.5L total of mixed or 5.5L of coolant, plus another 5.5L of distilled water, making a total of 11.0L?

Makes the difference of spending an additional $18 on an extra bottle of coolant that I don't need at the moment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,340 Posts
5.5L total is what it should be
 
  • Like
Reactions: 87

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,003 Posts
It would be the total - however, it might not be a bad idea to buy an extra and return it if you don't need it. Because, what happens if you find out the car needs more? Now you've got a car that doesn't have enough coolant to make the trip to get the second bottle. If you don't have a good backup plan, overbuying might be the smart move.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 87

·
Read Only
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It would be the total - however, it might not be a bad idea to buy an extra and return it if you don't need it. Because, what happens if you find out the car needs more? Now you've got a car that doesn't have enough coolant to make the trip to get the second bottle. If you don't have a good backup plan, overbuying might be the smart move.
Great point! I agree that too much is better than too little in case of such a situation.

In this case though there is a definitive capacity. If I didn't have the internet to give me the answer, I'd definitely err on the side of caution and would have bought an extra jug. Thanks internet!
 

·
Read Only
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
So I'm tackling the coolant change today. The manual says that the coolant capacity is 5.5L, but this is all that drained out. I realize that some fluid in the heater core may not drain but this looks like barely over 2L. My reservoir was a tad on the low side prior to commencing this, but not so low that would be concerning or indicate a leak.

I'm currently running the engine on distilled water at the moment. Engine has been idling for 15 minutes and is at ~60C. Heat is on full blast. Also oddly enough it only took ~4L to fill the coolant system/reservoir. And yes, I did bleed air via the bleeder valve on the radiator.

Am I doing something wrong?

Note that I used the same catch can I use while doing oil changes, hence the color and junk. It looked a little better while draining out.

Floor Gas Flooring Raw milk
 

·
Read Only
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Also, just took the car for a 10 minute drive, got it nice and warmed up. No fluid from the reservoir has been sucked out, and it doesn't seem like the radiator fan even turned on the whole time.

Took a coolant reading immediately after getting back from the drive and coolant temp was 106C.
 

·
Read Only
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
After my last post I took the car for a 20 minute drive along the highway. 115km/h, about 2400rpm. Again when I came home the temp was the same and the coolant level didn't change.

Drained the water and pretty much got 4L (see picture below). When I went to fill with 50/50 coolant it only took about 90% of a 3.78L container (plus about 200ml of hyper lube super coolant).

In the picture below, the container on the left is a 4L water jug and is what resulted from the initial drain. The containing on the right is a 3.78L water jug and is what resulted from draining water after the flush and driving.

Product Floor Liquid Water Flooring

So I'm thinking I never got all of the original coolant out, or all of the water out after the flush. And now I have a messed up water/coolant ratio.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
I would pick up a antifreeze tester like this one or something similar from Walmart or an auto parts store and test your mixture to make sure you have adequate protection.

 

·
Read Only
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I would pick up a antifreeze tester like this one or something similar from Walmart or an auto parts store and test your mixture to make sure you have adequate protection.

Picked up a kit and tested between -25C and -29C (was bouncing around, despite me tapping to remove air bubbles) for freezing, and +126C for boiling point.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top