Water pump coverage extended to 10/120 miles if memory serves.
Rob
Rob
coolant leak?
I noticed a stain on the oil sump on the passenger side when I changed the oil a couple days ago. Also heard a water swish like noise when I started it a couple times in the last week or so. The overflow bottle was very low, the lower hose on the bottle was completely uncovered. So I added a pint just to get the fluid level higher than the hose. I have a dealer appointment on Monday for the evap solenoid noise, guess I'll have them check that water pump? I'm at about 44k, hope that is covered on the driveline warranty.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
10/150 for the water pump. This is the most likely source of your leak.
Dealer pressure tested the system, said it wasn't leaking. They filled the overflow, and sent me on my way. Guess I'm playing the long game to get this fixed.
There's a PI to dealerships to do exactly what they did. If it drops again put in the coolant dye and then keep an eye on it. The coolant dye is how we diagnosed a bad pressure cap and a bad water pump. It left residue right next to the leak.
Are you saying the next time I complain the dealership will add dye? Or are you suggesting that I put dye in it?There's a PI to dealerships to do exactly what they did. If it drops again put in the coolant dye and then keep an eye on it. The coolant dye is how we diagnosed a bad pressure cap and a bad water pump. It left residue right next to the leak.
Multi step diagnosis process.
1. Pressure test system and top off.
If low over a short period (days/weeks) then:
2. Pressure test again...if no leakage evident, add dye and top off.
3. When again low, dealer to inspect with black light to find coolant trail.
I know.....sounds like a pain....and it is for both parties...you and the dealer. However, the dealer cannot just change a component hoping they guessed correctly, nor is that how you would want the repair done......shotgunning parts rarely leads to success.
Rob
1. Pressure test system and top off.
If low over a short period (days/weeks) then:
2. Pressure test again...if no leakage evident, add dye and top off.
3. When again low, dealer to inspect with black light to find coolant trail.
I know.....sounds like a pain....and it is for both parties...you and the dealer. However, the dealer cannot just change a component hoping they guessed correctly, nor is that how you would want the repair done......shotgunning parts rarely leads to success.
Rob
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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