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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently started having issues with my cooling system. AC off due to high engine temp warning, but with 167 F scan tool temp and a pending low temp code P0128. Gauge is showing no/low temp or lower than normal. My suspicion is it’s an issue with the thermostat (causing coolant to always pump through radiator. I have collected parts to do an overhaul on my cooling system as soon as there was a need to drain and fill, so I think now is the time.
Is there a good chance that replacing the following would knock out the problem?:
Both Temp Sensors
Thermostat
Water Pump (if I don’t have to remove engine mount, I have new TTY bolts)
All hoses (maybe overkill, but may as well, and some have crappy screw on clamps)
Outlet (because it’ll fail at some point)

Also, how bad is removing the turbo to replace the turbo coolant lines? I’ll have my car in a garage for one day (could do two if necessary) this weekend. (Oh, also upgrading to moog links while I’m at it)
 

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Administrator, Resident Tater Salad
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Honestly, temp sensors & thermostat would knock this out, but if you want to go ahead and replace all of the plastic parts like the water outlet, expansion tank, and connection hose too, that would be good to do.

Yeah, while you're replacing all of the coolant anyway (Dexcool's life is 5 yrs/100k), you may as well do the hoses and use the OEM clamps.

Turbo's a pain. If you're going to remove that, get the oil cooler O-rings and knock that out while you're in there. ~3 hours of work.

Burping these systems can be difficult. Let the car run until it starts to get warm with the expansion tank cap off, get the RPMs up to get the water pump cycling it around, and crack the bleed screw until it flows steady a couple times during the warmup as coolant starts to cycle around. You can rent vacuum bleeders for cooling systems from an auto parts store and that might make your life much easier.
 

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2013 1.8L AT 110k miles
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I can't speak to the ease of turbo removal since mine is not the 1.4 but something else you may want to check is the thermostat housing. The Cruze has a mechanical thermostat that you would normally replace but also an electronically controlled thermostat built into the housing. My electronic one died. An easy check, ohm the electrical connector on the thermostat housing, it should read ~15Ω for a new OEM part. If it's open, replace the whole housing for ~$110 at a parts store or rockauto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The expansion tank wouldn’t arrive in thine at this point, so will skip that. Pretty sure I got all of the hoses/clamps. I haven’t ordered the oil cooler o-rings since I wasn’t planning on doing that (and too late now). So I think I’ll hold off on turbo removal and hope I’m lucky for at least a while. Thanks for the tip on bleeding (and other stuff from both of you). The part I got looks to be thermostat+housing for ~$50 rock auto. (3 bolt holes, electrical connector socket, etc. )
 
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