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Coolant Temperature Reading Low

3796 Views 4 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  jblackburn
My Cruze 1.4t eco required a coolant change. Following the tutorial on here, everything went to plan. However when it got to filling to car with the straight coolant, it took the whole gallon. I then added 50/50 dexcool to get it to the level. I took the car for a run and no problem.

I drove the car for four days and it was good, the temp needle in the normal place. Then when I was driving in traffic I got the a/c off due to heat message. I pulled over and the coolant tank was steaming and overflowing. I'm not sure why. I let the car cool down and added 50/50 mix and drove the car 200 miles. During that trip the coolant only read 170-180f. Where normally it's at 217.

I got home and looked at the Cruze the next day and the coolant tank was empty. I filled it back up with 50/50/. I have drove 10 mile trips twice since then and the coolant Temperature needle is at 170 and if the car idles, the temp goes down.

I have no idea on this one. I've ordered the improved dorman coolant tank as I noticed when I overfilled the tank, coolant was coming from the seam so it looks like it's cracked there.

In order for me to get the car at 230f for the fan to come on I have to rev it at 4k rpm for a while. It's just not getting hot and the fan is not picking on unless it's at 230f.

Please help.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Based on what I have found on here, when the engine overheats the thermostat has a failsafe and defaults to open position to prevent damage.

Is it possible to push the thermostat back to normal or must it be replaced?

Also looking at the parts diagram, there is a thermostat, gasket and thermostat housing with a plug. Can I reserve the thermostat housing?

Now this will happen again unless I address the issue of overheating. As I said I saw a leak when I overfilled the coolant tank k and hopefully it's the tank busted at the seam. I am going to overfill it again to check.

Prior to this coolant change it was not losing any coolant.
 

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Replace the tank and see how it goes. With the broken tank, the cooling system won't be able to pressurize. Without pressure, the coolant will boil at a lower temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I replaced the tank and thermostat. Filled it to the seam with 50/50. Then let it get to 195f with the cap off to let the air bubbles out. What I noticed the cooling fan comes on for short periods of time at much lower temperatures than the original thermostat. The new one is a doorman which is supposed to be better.

Anyway I let it idle and again got to 180f and hovered around 175f. I took it for a drive and temp got up to 240, ac off warning message, pulled over as fast as I could. Temp kept going up, engine warning light come on and went into limp mode. Pulled over and saw the coolant hose that connected to the thermostat popped off.


I assume this is a failsafe as I know I properly reconnected that hose. I put the hose back on, let it cool for 10 min and pulled distilled water in there to the seam. Drove home. Check it again and put a bit more 50/50 in to the seam.

I just took it for a 10 Mile drive, high the temp got is 232 and has now gone below 218f. It's idling right now and goes up to 235f, fan kicks on and goes back down to 218f.

Engine light is still on.
 

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I replaced the tank and thermostat. Filled it to the seam with 50/50. Then let it get to 195f with the cap off to let the air bubbles out. What I noticed the cooling fan comes on for short periods of time at much lower temperatures than the original thermostat. The new one is a doorman which is supposed to be better.

Anyway I let it idle and again got to 180f and hovered around 175f. I took it for a drive and temp got up to 240, ac off warning message, pulled over as fast as I could. Temp kept going up, engine warning light come on and went into limp mode. Pulled over and saw the coolant hose that connected to the thermostat popped off.


I assume this is a failsafe as I know I properly reconnected that hose. I put the hose back on, let it cool for 10 min and pulled distilled water in there to the seam. Drove home. Check it again and put a bit more 50/50 in to the seam.

I just took it for a 10 Mile drive, high the temp got is 232 and has now gone below 218f. It's idling right now and goes up to 235f, fan kicks on and goes back down to 218f.

Engine light is still on.
Well, the temps are right now. Might have had bubbles in the cooling system causing the temp spike

Light *should* go away after a few successful drive cycles.

If it, or you, think it's overheating again, blast the crap out of the heater and idle as soon as possible.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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