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Dear All,

I was busy finding out the real problem at last i got that cooling fan dropping resistor link ( i don't know what is this) please refer to the attachment there is small link beside resistor which is showing to resistance or continuity. Please let me know how to fix it, i don't want to buy full fan motor only this part issue required to be resolved.
 

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Though you might think your saving money buying the entire new cooling fan is the better option. Lets say you replace the faulty component only to have the other old parts fail but this time it overheats your engine and your out thousands of dollars.
 

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You're talking about that small thing next to the red wire? You might want to clean it up. It looks like a thermal fuse. But why there would be one in that assembly, I don't know.

Also keep in mind that if your fan is defective and drawing too much current, the new one is likely to fail as well.
 

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Hmmm a 2010 LS, must be outside of the USA.

Dropping resistors are used to reduce the speed of the blower motor, not the most efficient way, but sure the cheapest. !.4L uses two dropping resistor and three relays controlled by the ECU, only one relay is energized at a time.

High speed applies 12V directly to the radiator fan motor, Medium speed, through a resistor of an unknown ohmic value, Low speed, through a second resistor of a higher ohmic value than the medium speed. Each has it own fuses.

Guessing your LS is only a two speed, high and low. GM could be nice for a change and specify the resistance value in the circuit diagram, and practically all resistors have the resistance value stamped on the resistor. Gathering GM doesn't doesn't want to confuse their idiots with facts. You also have a fuse soldered in series with your resistor, it should be stamped with the voltage and resistor value. Can be checked for continuity with an ohmmeter for near zero ohms on the lowest range.

If a resistor overheats will be burnt, yours doesn't look that way. The reason why that fuse is soldered in, they want you to replace the entire module for more profit. How do I know this, talking to an retired engineer not keeping secrets anymore.

Typical operation is that a thermistor measures temperature, if exceeds a given point, the low speed is switched on first, if after a given time, this does not cool the coolant, than switches to high speed.

GM could also specify the current draw of the fan motor with 14.4 volts applied, typically in the 25-30 ampere range, this is the key test to tell if the motor is operating properly, again they omit this most important test. Could even specify the speed of the fan using a photo tachometer. Another valuable specification.

With this data, these simple very basic tests can identify a problem instantly, but the attorneys won't permit this, say would make them liable for a warranty replacement. So say test it against a known good unit, but how do you know its good without any specifications.
Can guarantee you, engineering provides all these specifications.

And I say to GM and others, shame on you.
 

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Though you might think your saving money buying the entire new cooling fan is the better option. Lets say you replace the faulty component only to have the other old parts fail but this time it overheats your engine and your out thousands of dollars.
I'd agree with this. Had a '69 Camaro that had a fan motor with dried bearings. The resultant draw would burn out the dropping resisters in the speed control every couple of years. Problem was, you had to remove the right front fender to get to the motor (someone take that engineer out in the parking lot and give him a clue bat). Found it easier to replace the speed control in the dash. Didn't fix the basic problem, but it was less time consuming. Yes, you could replace the individual components on that board, but you really should find the root cause first.
 

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167 bucks for the 1.4L radiator fan.



Good reason for testing it first, unless you have money to blow. Then what's wrong with it, a bearing that need lubrication, worn brush?

What about a dirty relay contact causing inoperation, was reason the reason my radio was flashing on and off, so should I have replaced the radio first? If I did, sure wouldn't cure the problem. Have to find the problem first.
 

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Thank u all, actually problem was motor bearing which was causing high current and caused TCO (thermal cutoff) opened, I have purchased a used fan from junk yard tested and replaced now working fine. Cost of new fan here in KSA is about $ 215 and used is $ 20~80, Thanks all for your views and comments really Appreciated!!!
 

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Having the same problem with my 2013 1.4. It is the 3rd radiator fan I bought, the resistors in the first two were blown. Something causes high current, I went to a specialist who checked the amperage; waiting for another fan now to hook it up, we gonna check everything step by step. I think it's just impossible that 2 resistors got blown randomly because the fan itself was defective.
 

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Are the fans OEM or aftermarket?

The only way I could see the car causing this is if something is interfering with the fan's ability to turn. Rat's nest, something sticking though the radiator, etc.
 

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thanks for your reply. Aftermarket fans. I thought the same, I kept the radiator fan out of the car (extended wires) - same thing, the resistor got blown is exactly same way..
 

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Having the same problem with my 2013 1.4. It is the 3rd radiator fan I bought, the resistors in the first two were blown. Something causes high current, I went to a specialist who checked the amperage; waiting for another fan now to hook it up, we gonna check everything step by step. I think it's just impossible that 2 resistors got blown randomly because the fan itself was defective.
Did you figure out what was causing the resistors to blow. I’m like you on my 3rd fan and it has blown the resistor again. They are also aftermarket fans.
 

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Did you figure out what was causing the resistors to blow. I’m like you on my 3rd fan and it has blown the resistor again. They are also aftermarket fans.
hey there, nope, unfortunately I never did. I didn't even hook up the new rad as in the meantime I got a really nice offer and I.. sold my chevy. It must be some factory issue with these cars, tbh I had really enough of all of it so I decided to sell. My advice: go to an experienced electrician and check the current along with all the relays to find out if they work properly.
 

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Man I was really hoping you fixed it. I’ve had my buddy put it in his diagnostic computer and tested everything relays included. He’s got 15 years experience and all he could tell me was it is a bad resistor. It has all the correct voltage going to the resistor and telays are functioning correctly. I guess I’ll try the dealer fan if I can get autozone to give me my money back instead of an exchange.
 

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Man I was really hoping you fixed it. I’ve had my buddy put it in his diagnostic computer and tested everything relays included. He’s got 15 years experience and all he could tell me was it is a bad resistor. It has all the correct voltage going to the resistor and telays are functioning correctly. I guess I’ll try the dealer fan if I can get autozone to give me my money back instead of an exchange.
yeah I know what you feel bro, sorry I can't help.. all you can do is to connect another fan and observe, use extended wires so you and your buddy can monitor what actually happens to he resistor. good luck!
 

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Searching for help
When turn Ac on , the condenser fan working in max speed for about 1 to 2 min ,then stops for 15 seconds .. but if i take aound with a car for 15 min , i found that the fan still working without any stop ( like before)
Is this normal case or i have an issue with ac compessor sensor ??
 

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Searching for help
When turn Ac on , the condenser fan working in max speed for about 1 to 2 min ,then stops for 15 seconds .. but if i take aound with a car for 15 min , i found that the fan still working without any stop ( like before)
Is this normal case or i have an issue with ac compessor sensor ??
You would be better off starting a new thread of your own. The issue is slightly different and this is a pretty old thread. I have also replied to your other thread.
 
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