Torque specifications are based on clean lubricated threads, been this way since the beginning of time. With this darn road salt, if I don't put on a thin coat of anti-seize on my lug studs, will break them off trying to remove the lug nut.
With aluminum heads, a necessity to embed steel inserts for the valves, if they don't, particularly in the exhaust valve, a head would only last about ten minutes. Some even go as far as using steel inserts for the plugs, have to admit ignorance on exactly what the Cruze is doing, kind of a very deep hole even to look at them.
Not talking about using a gallon of this stuff, just a very thin coating, but had some very bad experiences with this when they started using aluminum heads, this dates back to the early 70's. Particularly on small engines. That 98 Ford ZX2 sure gave me grief, so don't want to risk it.
KD tools makes a kit using a steel spark plug insert with a high temperature epoxy to hold it in. Had to do this with my Onan generator, but to do it right, had to remove the heads, two cylinder engine valve in block that was fairly easy. Not an easy job on any overhead cam engine, so prefer preventative measures. All that timing chain stuff has to be removed.
Also coat the insides of the boots with dielectric grease, if you don't do this, they will bake on. Like a Chinese finger puzzle, the harder you pull, the tighter they get. While I do have a right angle tool with a U cut into it, can slip that on the side of the plug and pull the boot off while compressing it. But can't do this in a blind hole.
Then those springs inside of the boots, the tips can get hung up on the shoulder on the inside. So had to stretch them out so this won't happen. At an angle, can see if I am getting good contact with the plug terminals, say a pray and push it down and hold it until those two screws are firm.