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Just a few days ago I performed the external PCV check valve mod. In the process, I didn't get the PCV hose on securely at the intake manifold and ended up with a CEL and vacuum leak a few days later. In the diagnosis process I broke that hose near the intake manifold. This corrugated plastic hose gets extremely brittle, even under normal operating conditions. (My car does not see extreme duty, has only 44k, and I live near Portland, OR - relatively cool most of the year). I came up with two options.

1) AC Delco replacement on Amazon - $43. Upsides: easy, OEM, looks good, also comes with the very small vacuum line that is in the same run. Downsides: will fail again, $43, have to wait 2 days to get it.

2) Use the connectors at both ends of the original hose and replace the plastic corrugated middle section with bulk hose from a parts house.

I went with number 2. Here's what I did:

1: Carefully cut the corrugated hose off both end connectors. Use a utility knife to split it along the male end of the connector and gently pull/pry it off. I think it was originally heat shrunk on there so it's a very tight fit, but it comes off. The turbo end connector has a check valve in it - at this point you should check to make sure that is working properly. Clean the connector so you're comfortable putting your mouth around the nipple where the hose was. You should be able to blow into it with no restriction, but you should not be able to suck.

2. Parts: a) 5/8" ID hose. I went to AutoZone expecting to get vacuum line like you'd see going to the brake booster on an older, bigger car, but surprisingly they didn't have anything big enough. I went with heater hose instead. Wasn't my first choice, but it should be fine for what we're doing. I'll be keeping an eye on it for durability. b) 90 degree PCV connector. The heater hose is very flexible and I was concerned it wouldn't handle the 90 degree bend at the left rear corner of the valve cover. AutoZone actually has a small section devoted to PCV stuff and I found Dorman part 47032 (actually for Ford) that was exactly what I needed. c) Zip ties.

3. Cut the hoses to the right lengths to match the original hose routing. Install both ends and the 90-degree fitting at the correct location. A small dab of grease or vaseline is very helpful for sliding the connectors on to the hose. The hose is probably fine without any clamping at the connectors, but I used zip ties and pulled them tight with pliers. Install the connector at the intake manifold - press down until it snaps in, push the metal clip in to lock it. Route the hose the same as it was originally. The ring clips on the back of the intake manifold are too small for the heater hose so they have to be removed. Use zip ties to secure the hoses to the clips' mounting tabs. The c-clips on the left side of the valve cover fit the new hose fine. Push on the connector at the turbo - make sure it snaps in too. Further secure the hose with additional zip ties if needed. Done. (I removed the air intake pipe between the air box and turbo for better access)

I cleared the code/CEL by removing the negative battery cable while I was fabricating the hose. Started it up and immediately noticed the high and erratic idle I was experiencing was gone. Took it out for a test drive and between this fix, the external PCV mod, bypassing the air resonator, and K&N panel air cleaner it was like a new car. I'm hoping I've put PCV issues to bed for a long time now.
 

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Thanks for this write-up! I was inspecting for my check valve in the manifold and broke the stock corrugated line. Seems like this is a better option than buying a $45 replacement.

I saw the heater hose you used, but they had some PCV hose in the back in stock that I went with because it was a little less stiff and bulky. It’s rated for 35psi which I’m not or concerened with getting near even with my tune. Purchased 4ft.

Also I went with an elbow that had a deeper connection on both ends, not just the 1 end.


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/dorman-help--4422/belts-hoses-16454/heater---bypass-hoses-16998/heater-fittings-18163/heater-hose-elbow/47063/4528323?q=47063

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/safety-stripe-ii-3753/belts-hoses-16454/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/5-8-inch-hose/27008/4348873

Spent just under $15.



Edit: Used 9 3/4 inches for the top section and about 14 1/4 inches for the side. So could have gotten away with 2ft of hose (risky).
 

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This is a nice solution. Thanks for sharing. The corrugated hose looks nice, but it's stupid. Too bad you can't get a check valve for the turbo end without buying the corrugated hose. Maybe someone can find a cheap replacement for that as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is a nice solution. Thanks for sharing. The corrugated hose looks nice, but it's stupid. Too bad you can't get a check valve for the turbo end without buying the corrugated hose. Maybe someone can find a cheap replacement for that as well.


@daveo12 or moderators, could you please add some paragraph breaks into the original post. It's hard to read such a long run-on paragraph.
Thanks for the comment! I agree, the long run-on paragraph is super annoying. That's not at all how I typed it in, but it's how it appeared when I posted. I think it was when the forum was having some issues, because I couldn't post pics then either. And now I can't seem to figure out how to edit my original post. If I can't figure it out, I'll post a formatted version below.
 

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The forum removed my original paragraph formatting so here are the instructions for the PCV hose replacement in a more readable format. (Moderator, feel free to replace the OP with this)

See 1st post after reformatting. This was a duplicate so removed text and referred back to #1
 

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Thank you, much better. A moderator could probably fix the original post.

There you go I went ahead and copied the edited version(previous post and edited the first) That way I can delete the previous as a duplicate. If need be, I will save in a Word Document on my computer.

LMK of any problems.
 

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There you go I went ahead and copied the edited version(previous post and edited the first) That way I can delete the previous as a duplicate. If need be, I will save in a Word Document on my computer.

LMK of any problems.
Thanks for fixing it! Should I have been able to edit my OP? There's a box in my profile that says which permissions I have, and it does say I can edit posts, but for the life of me I cannot seem to do so.
 

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Has anyone tried to mount check valve in to the hose? Local dealers ask almost 100$ for the original hose and almost a week to wait, so i'm looking for quick and easy fix. 5/8 fuel hose and check valve mounted inline? Something like this, that is made for aquariums (co2 gas)? It would cost around 10$

atbulinis voztuvas-500x500.jpg
 

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And now i'm reading more in this forum - this valve on the hose is not stuck, but always open. I'm confused now, do i have to change it if the hose itself is ok?
 

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Hello...I'm new to the forum and have a question on the pcv hose. How did you get this **** thing off? I can't get it off of the inlet that is closest to the front of the car. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Hello...I'm new to the forum and have a question on the pcv hose. How did you get this **** thing off? I can't get it off of the inlet that is closest to the front of the car. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
By the turbo I would assume? You need to squeeze the 2 tabs slightly, then pull straight out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
And now i'm reading more in this forum - this valve on the hose is not stuck, but always open. I'm confused now, do i have to change it if the hose itself is ok?
You should be able to blow into it from the turbo end (towards front of car) but not suck. If you can suck then I’d replace it. As to using an aquarium check valve I don’t see why it wouldn’t work - might be worth a try?
 

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Hello...I'm new to the forum and have a question on the pcv hose. How did you get this **** thing off? I can't get it off of the inlet that is closest to the front of the car. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Look at my pics I posted earlier in the thread - there’s one that shows the turbo end connector. There’s a ring at the base of the connector with serrations on the two sides. Press on those serrations and pull straight, just like @mikestony just posted. I remember having to work at this one for a bit and pull pretty hard.
 

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Hi did the hose that goes on top of the manifold have a rubber o ring inside of it? I found one when I pulled that corrugated hos off and I don’t know if it goes to it or something else. I tried putting it inside which it fits but then it wouldn’t snap back on the manifold
 
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