Corrugated PCV Hose Replacement/Upgrade

Just a few days ago I performed the external PCV check valve mod. In the process, I didn't get the PCV hose on securely at the intake manifold and ended up with a CEL and vacuum leak a few days later. In the diagnosis process I broke that hose near the intake manifold. This corrugated plastic hose gets extremely brittle, even under normal operating conditions. (My car does not see extreme duty, has only 44k, and I live near Portland, OR - relatively cool most of the year). I came up with two options.

1) AC Delco replacement on Amazon - $43. Upsides: easy, OEM, looks good, also comes with the very small vacuum line that is in the same run. Downsides: will fail again, $43, have to wait 2 days to get it.

2) Use the connectors at both ends of the original hose and replace the plastic corrugated middle section with bulk hose from a parts house.

I went with number 2. Here's what I did:

1: Carefully cut the corrugated hose off both end connectors. Use a utility knife to split it along the male end of the connector and gently pull/pry it off. I think it was originally heat shrunk on there so it's a very tight fit, but it comes off. The turbo end connector has a check valve in it - at this point you should check to make sure that is working properly. Clean the connector so you're comfortable putting your mouth around the nipple where the hose was. You should be able to blow into it with no restriction, but you should not be able to suck.

2. Parts: a) 5/8" ID hose. I went to AutoZone expecting to get vacuum line like you'd see going to the brake booster on an older, bigger car, but surprisingly they didn't have anything big enough. I went with heater hose instead. Wasn't my first choice, but it should be fine for what we're doing. I'll be keeping an eye on it for durability. b) 90 degree PCV connector. The heater hose is very flexible and I was concerned it wouldn't handle the 90 degree bend at the left rear corner of the valve cover. AutoZone actually has a small section devoted to PCV stuff and I found Dorman part 47032 (actually for Ford) that was exactly what I needed. c) Zip ties.

3. Cut the hoses to the right lengths to match the original hose routing. Install both ends and the 90-degree fitting at the correct location. A small dab of grease or vaseline is very helpful for sliding the connectors on to the hose. The hose is probably fine without any clamping at the connectors, but I used zip ties and pulled them tight with pliers. Install the connector at the intake manifold - press down until it snaps in, push the metal clip in to lock it. Route the hose the same as it was originally. The ring clips on the back of the intake manifold are too small for the heater hose so they have to be removed. Use zip ties to secure the hoses to the clips' mounting tabs. The c-clips on the left side of the valve cover fit the new hose fine. Push on the connector at the turbo - make sure it snaps in too. Further secure the hose with additional zip ties if needed. Done. (I removed the air intake pipe between the air box and turbo for better access)

I cleared the code/CEL by removing the negative battery cable while I was fabricating the hose. Started it up and immediately noticed the high and erratic idle I was experiencing was gone. Took it out for a test drive and between this fix, the external PCV mod, bypassing the air resonator, and K&N panel air cleaner it was like a new car. I'm hoping I've put PCV issues to bed for a long time now.