Crank Pulley Removal

26769 Views 4 Replies 3 Participants Last post by chris19000, Jan 3, 2017

turboman1

Discussion Starter · Jul 5, 2016

Hello from Arizona,

New to the forum and this is my current situation.

Doing the timing belt on my 2011 1.8L automatic Cruze LS, but I can't seem to get the crank pulley off.

Questions are...

1) Is the E18 torx bolt reverse thread?
2) Is there a tool to hold the motor to keep it from turning over? (Or if someone has a way better way to keep it from turning over)
3) When attempting remove it the old belt jumped a couple teeth (2-3 at most)...so is there a link/writeup somewhere on how to re-time the crank to the cams?

Thanks,
Adam

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turboman1

Discussion Starter · #2 · Jul 6, 2016

turboman1 said:
Hello from Arizona,

New to the forum and this is my current situation.

Doing the timing belt on my 2011 1.8L automatic Cruze LS, but I can't seem to get the crank pulley off.

Questions are...

1) Is the E18 torx bolt reverse thread?
2) Is there a tool to hold the motor to keep it from turning over? (Or if someone has a way better way to keep it from turning over)
3) When attempting remove it the old belt jumped a couple teeth (2-3 at most)...so is there a link/writeup somewhere on how to re-time the crank to the cams?

Thanks,
Adam

Solution => Don't use questionable electric impact wrenches from Harbor & Freight ( Bolt is standard threading). Got a 800 ft-lb Husky air impact and had the pulley off in literally 2 seconds.

Still need something on re-positioning/timing the cam shafts with the crank as the old belt jumped a couple teeth (lesson to others -> Don't try and hold the cam's and use the old belt as your torque reversal to keep the engine from turning over). Looks like there is a mark on the snout of the crank for #1TDC...do the marks on the end of the camshafts align horizontally right next to each other (i.e. basically the two marks are horizontal and nearest to the centerline of the engine)?

Thanks,
Adam

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carbon02

· #3 · Jul 7, 2016 (Edited)

Take a look at the following link. I don't know the engine RPO code for the 1.8L, but if you search this model, maybe you can find it.

If I recall correctly even the 1.8L has a capped plug on the side of the timing chain cover. You rotate the crank until a factory tool like a dowel pin locks the position of the lower crank.

If I recall correctly there weren't as many factory tools for the 1.8L timing belt as the 1.4L timing chain. And they weren't that expensive.

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...n-tutorials/100769-timing-belt-1-8l-1-6l.html

searching using google is the best!

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turboman1

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jul 7, 2016

carbon02 said:
Take a look at the following link. I don't know the engine RPO code for the 1.8L, but if you search this model, maybe you can find it.

If I recall correctly even the 1.8L has a capped plug on the side of the timing chain cover. You rotate the crank until a factory tool like a dowel pin locks the position of the lower crank.

If I recall correctly there weren't as many factory tools for the 1.8L timing belt as the 1.4L timing chain. And they weren't that expensive.

searching using google is the best!

Thanks for the reply Carbon02. I read that link before but it doesn't really help if you have already got the timing out of whack.

Solution -> There is a mark on the bottom of the timing cover for #1 TDC, and when the crank mark aligns with this, the marks on the cam gears will either be closest to each other or farthest from each other. You will want them to be closest to each other (which may involve rotating the crank another 360* around). I did this with the old belt on and it appeared that only the intake cam had jumped about 3 teeth. Popped the old belt off (intake cam didn't move at all but the exhaust cam rotated backwards some), used a torx drive to rotate the exhaust cam back to it's correct location... put the new belt on... spun the motor over a couple times to check there was no interference and everything aligned correctly... cranked it over a couple times without starting just to make sure the belt was running smoothly on everything...finally started it and everything went fine.

In short I didn't use any special tools. All I did was align everything with the given marks from the factory. I do not recommend for someone to do it this way, and I only did it because I was in a pinch for time to get the car back on the road, but do note that it can be done without special tools (even without a cam locking tool).

thanks,
Adam

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chris19000

· #5 · Jan 3, 2017

turboman1 said:
Thanks for the reply Carbon02. I read that link before but it doesn't really help if you have already got the timing out of whack.

Solution -> There is a mark on the bottom of the timing cover for #1 TDC, and when the crank mark aligns with this, the marks on the cam gears will either be closest to each other or farthest from each other. You will want them to be closest to each other (which may involve rotating the crank another 360* around). I did this with the old belt on and it appeared that only the intake cam had jumped about 3 teeth. Popped the old belt off (intake cam didn't move at all but the exhaust cam rotated backwards some), used a torx drive to rotate the exhaust cam back to it's correct location... put the new belt on... spun the motor over a couple times to check there was no interference and everything aligned correctly... cranked it over a couple times without starting just to make sure the belt was running smoothly on everything...finally started it and everything went fine.

In short I didn't use any special tools. All I did was align everything with the given marks from the factory. I do not recommend for someone to do it this way, and I only did it because I was in a pinch for time to get the car back on the road, but do note that it can be done without special tools (even without a cam locking tool).

thanks,
Adam

Hey Adam, how did you lock the crankshaft/flywheel to torque the harmonic balancer back on and how did you find out what to torque it to? I can't see any way to do this without the special flywheel lock.

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