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Crankshaft pulley seal leak?

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I was replacing my belt and water pump and noticed a lot of oil around the pulley below. This is from the crankshaft fully seal? How much of a rush should I be in to fix this.? It's not dripping on the driveway no noticeable low level and dipstick. I don't feel like taking everything apart again for a while and sucks I will have to buy new motor mount bolts again.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
100% but needed my car. Already had to wait fo part ofr unexpected belt tensioner breaking.Not sure how to do it yet. How do I get it off?? I don't have impact wrench. Someone said you can do it with a screwdriver jammed. Need more research before I'm ready. If anyone knows please advise thank you
 

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100% but needed my car. Already had to wait fo part ofr unexpected belt tensioner breaking.Not sure how to do it yet. How do I get it off?? I don't have impact wrench. Someone said you can do it with a screwdriver jammed. Need more research before I'm ready. If anyone knows please advise thank you
You can do it that way but an impact wrench is easier.
 

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I had this talk w @JLL and others and the prevailing diy tool is impact wrench. I have to replace the seal on daughter's '14 rs (and probably my "12 eco) and plan on buying a medium strength corded impact wrench from harbor freight at about $80-90. Hope it will do the job.
I may try to muscle it off using a breaker bar and lock the pulley in place with a hand tool but will have the power tool on hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had this talk w @JLL and others and the prevailing diy tool is impact wrench. I have to replace the seal on daughter's '14 rs (and probably my "12 eco) and plan on buying a medium strength corded impact wrench from harbor freight at about $80-90. Hope it will do the job.
I may try to muscle it off using a breaker bar and lock the pulley in place with a hand tool but will have the power tool on hand.
Did you ever get around to doing this job? What strength impact do I need? Still need to do mine was debating on having the dealer do it since I dont have any of the tools. Impact wrench. My torque wrench does go above 85. Don't have the pulley holding tool or the socket. 4 things I'd have to buy.

I called Chevy for a price and they said they couldn't give me one until they looked at and figure out what caused. That doesn't make sense to me. I'm asking you to perform a job. How much? Simple.
 

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Thx for the reminder! I still have to do the seal repair on daughter's car if it will be available for more than an hour...🙄 Trying for Sunday and I'll try to update this. I did buy an impact wrench, prob be handy for other jobs as well. This seal has no oil leak, just the vaccuum chirp... driving her nuts!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Awesome please let me know how it goes and if your impact wrench was powerful enough and how you kept the pulley from spinning when torquing down. Any tips would be appreciated!
 

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I found the post below in a non-cruzetalk forum. some details on use of an impact wrench to remove the crank bolt. I will use the impact on advice from Cruzetalk members anyway but this info helps to explain why removing the bolt w impact won't damage internals. Of course, torque wrench is essential when tightening just about any bolt on a car. I'm set up to do this job tomorrow,(Sun) will update.
disclaimer: I am not a mechanic. I have completed many successful Cruze repairs by listening to solid advice from the generous and talented CruzeTalk community, thanks @JLL

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Original post-
› I was told NOT to uses a impact gun on the crank pully is this true??
This topic contains 18 replies, has 12 voices, and was last updated by
  • Participant
    That does not really make sense to me.
    It is not a good idea to just run the bolt in with a impact without using a torque wrench but ,removing the bolt with one should be fine.
    February 21, 2012 at 11:00 am


    Participant
    he was saying taking a bolt out to he told me DON’T do it i don’t know it don’t make sense BUT on the other hand if there is not enough oil on those bearings i could see it hurting them so i dont know..lol
    what yall think??
    February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am


    Participant
    I think I know why he told you that but I’m not quite sure it applies to something like a crankshaft.
    It was explained to me by someone who’s been doing it since dirt was new that it’s not advised to use an impact on a FWD axle nut, the shock transmits through the shaft(s) into the transmission and could potentially cause damage. I’ve never had a problem with it and the guy that told me said he’s only seen it maybe twice in 50+ years of working in the trade. Everyone uses an impact gun on axle nuts.
    February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am


    Participant
    So there you go buddy, everyone agree’s.
    Go ahead and use the impact.
    Good luck!
    February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am


    Participant
    I take crank bolts out with an impact all the time. You can’t really spin a crankshaft using an impact gun, at least not by the crank bolt. There’s no feasible way that I can think of to damage the connecting rod bearings by spinning the crank with the engine off. Besides, if turning the crankshaft with the engine off would damage the bearings, how would you ever line up the timing marks? Would you just take off the timing covers and have a helper keep bumping the starter until it kicked the engine around until the marks lined up? That could take forever and a day to get right, if it ever happened.

    February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am


    Moderator
    no harm will happen taking the crank bolt out with an impact gun.
    February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am


    Participant
    Hmmm, interesting question.
    I have always used an impact to remove them, but to put one on, always use a torque wrench.
    Heck, there have been times that without an impact and blow torch, I would NEVER have gotten some bolts removed…I have nightmares about my cousins Pontiac Bonneville SC. 🙂
    Putting one on with an impact could damage the hydraulic dampened pulleys out there, but I am more concerned about what the mechanic was trying to convey.
    Can you ask this mechanic to explain a little more in detail? Was he referring to taking one off or putting one on?
    February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am


    Participant
    taking it off he said it will make the connecting rod bearing failure Prematurely and this is because there is not enough oil on those bearing cause of course the engine is not running to make oil pressure…
    it kinda makes sense but it dont if that make sense…lol
    February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am


    Participant
    Somebody correct me, if I am wrong, but as long as the vehicle is in gear, Park for automatics, or 1st for manuals, nothing is going to spin (ie: connecting rods).
    I don’t know what your mechanic is talking about, he must have had a bad experience one time, or a good reason for telling you that.
    February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am


    Participant
    Quoted From
    Somebody correct me, if I am wrong, but as long as the vehicle is in gear, Park for automatics, or 1st for manuals, nothing is going to spin (ie: connecting rods).
    I don’t know what your mechanic is talking about, he must have had a bad experience one time, or a good reason for telling you that.
    I agree. The crankshaft is a lot more likely to turn when you have a breaker bar + cheater pipe on there trying to break the bolt free than when using an impact. Seems the impact would actually be a gentler way because it applies and removes force in quick busts – that’s why you can remove bolts in pulleys/idlers so easily whereas the pulley would just spin if you used a wrench.
    But even so, you are going to turn the crankshaft anyway to set valve lash, check piston to valve clearances, etc.
    February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am


    Participant
    hummm good point unless he is thinking it moves alittle bit even when its in park and puts stress on the bearing? hummm iam not sure
    February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am

    Participant
    The engine is free to turn when a car is in park. The torque converter is a fluid coupler. It will not engage the transmission with only a few hundred rpms. Otherwise, how would you start the engine? You don’t put it in neutral. That’s why you have to push in the clutch or put the car in neutral on older model standard trans cars/trucks that don’t have a NSS.
    February 22, 2012 at 11:00 a
    m


  • Participant

    I don’t think your friend understands how an impact gun works unfortunately S:(
    You will be fine removing the bolt with an impact gun. Just make sure you torque the bolt down to specifications as suggested already.

    February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am



    Participant
    Quoted From :
    The engine is free to turn when a car is in park. The torque converter is a fluid coupler. It will not engage the transmission with only a few hundred rpms. Otherwise, how would you start the engine? You don’t put it in neutral. That’s why you have to push in the clutch or put the car in neutral on older model standard trans cars/trucks that don’t have a NSS.
    And that is why this forum is AWESOME! Thanks Beefy, very very good point…there you go again with stating the obvious for me 🙂

    February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Excellent! Planning to tackle this next weekend possibly if I get all the parts and tools by then. Did you buy the new bolt? Not suppose to reuse old one.
- What pound strength impact wrench did you get?
-How are you going to hold the pulley still for torquing? Screwdriver or special tool?
- Are you removing the motor mounts? Or trying to go around through wheel well only?

Looking forward to hearing your results and feedback!! Good luck!
 

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Excellent! Planning to tackle this next weekend possibly if I get all the parts and tools by then. Did you buy the new bolt? Not suppose to reuse old one.
- What pound strength impact wrench did you get?
-How are you going to hold the pulley still for torquing? Screwdriver or special tool?
- Are you removing the motor mounts? Or trying to go around through wheel well only?

Looking forward to hearing your results and feedback!! Good luck!
I will remove the motor mounts so as to replace the serp belt and tensioner. Also removing the wheel and cracked wheel well liner to replace it. That will also allow space to use the impact wrench straight on facing the front of the engine/balancer bolt. I have a new bolt. (but failed to get new motor mount bolts...) I'll improvise with securing the pulley. I bought the Harbor Freight corded Bauer 1/2" 300 ft lb max. And an impact 1/2-3/8 adaptor for the socket. Hoping it will be ok.
Since it's midnight and technically Sunday I started. Passenger front up on a jack stand. The Bauer impact wrench didn't loosen the wheel lugs, expected that but they were soo tight. Got them to move with a 3' breaker and a lot of body weight.
5-10 minutes to remove the wheel well liner, 3 torx and several push pins. Access to pulley/bolt is perfect.
Air box is out. Checked the pulley/bolt with a breaker and it turned very easily. Belt is still on and wonder if tensioner spring is very worn out. Continue in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Your half way there! I replaced my belt and tensioner a few months back and motor mount bolts. I'm wondering how hard it would be without taking the mounts out. Do you think there's enough room to be able to loosen the tensioner to get the belt off and room to torque down the pulley bolt without removing the motor mounts?

I usually use my weight and stand on the breaker bar to loosen tight lugs lol surprised the impact couldn't get em. I looked up that Bauer corded impact 300 lb. Says 1050 breakaway torque. Would think that should easily get the lugs loose. They even show pictures of taking off lug nuts. On sale for 69.99
 

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I was replacing my belt and water pump and noticed a lot of oil around the pulley below. This is from the crankshaft fully seal? How much of a rush should I be in to fix this.? It's not dripping on the driveway no noticeable low level and dipstick. I don't feel like taking everything apart again for a while and sucks I will have to buy new motor mount bolts again.
Many times the cause of the crank seal failure is the failure of the PCV valve in the intake manifold. This causes the block to over pressurize damaging the seal and more than likely other gaskets. I would look into this if you have not installed a fix kit yet..
 

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Your half way there! I replaced my belt and tensioner a few months back and motor mount bolts. I'm wondering how hard it would be without taking the mounts out. Do you think there's enough room to be able to loosen the tensioner to get the belt off and room to torque down the pulley bolt without removing the motor mounts?

I usually use my weight and stand on the breaker bar to loosen tight lugs lol surprised the impact couldn't get em. I looked up that Bauer corded impact 300 lb. Says 1050 breakaway torque. Would think that should easily get the lugs loose. They even show pictures of taking off lug nuts. On sale for 69.99

I found removing the motor mounts and wheel well liner was essential. I did not use the impact wrench because I tried the 18" breaker bar first with one hand and secured the pully with a heavy screwdriver with the other hand all from above. Leverage and firm torque removed the bolt. Since I felt the torque necessary to remove the bolt, I have a good idea how tight it should be during reassembly.
I will return the impact wrench to HF, all my work on this car was by hand so far, this particular power tool will not be useful.
Be mindful of the pully orientation and watch for the internal "washer" that the pulley shaft fits into. It is free to move around and I had to position it to accept the pully shaft before it would sink down out of position. Note how close the pulley is to the timing cover before removing so you'll know if it is seating correctly during reassembly.
This is not a difficult job except for the guesswork of doing it for the first time.
In a nutshell, removing and reinstalling the bolt from above with mounts removed; and installing the new seal from the wheel well is the winning combination imho.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thank you for confirming. I thought I read that somewhere. Don't wanna blow me new seal. This kit doesn't look to hard to do..is everyone in agreement that these kits are legit good way to go?

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I found removing the motor mounts and wheel well liner was essential. I did not use the impact wrench because I tried the 18" breaker bar first with one hand and secured the pully with a heavy screwdriver with the other hand all from above. Leverage and firm torque removed the bolt. Since I felt the torque necessary to remove the bolt, I have a good idea how tight it should be during reassembly.
I will return the impact wrench to HF, all my work on this car was by hand so far, this particular power tool will not be useful.
Be mindful of the pully orientation and watch for the internal "washer" that the pulley shaft fits into. It is free to move around and I had to position it to accept the pully shaft before it would sink down out of position. Note how close the pulley is to the timing cover before removing so you'll know if it is seating correctly during reassembly.
This is not a difficult job except for the guesswork of doing it for the first time.
In a nutshell, removing and reinstalling the bolt from above with mounts removed; and installing the new seal from the wheel well is the winning combination imho.
Dave
Awesome! Good to hear you it's going well and got it off without the impact.. You've given me more confidence to do it. Really the only thing I was worried about is holding that pulley still. I found a pic of the screwdriver method(attatched). Is this where and how you did it?
 

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Awesome! Good to hear you it's going well and got it off without the impact.. You've given me more confidence to do it. Really the only thing I was worried about is holding that pulley still. I found a pic of the screwdriver method(attatched). Is this where and how you did it?
Yes for removal. Opposite side for install. Screwdriver can wedge against the wheel well metal both ways.
 

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Thank you for confirming. I thought I read that somewhere. Don't wanna blow me new seal. This kit doesn't look to hard to do..is everyone in agreement that these kits are legit good way to go?

Yes the cruzekit is THE fix. V3.4
See the huge amount of threads on this forum regarding pcv issues. Watch the website videos. Do it correctly the 1st time.
 
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