· The Nuclear Option
My philosophy is: "While you're in there, you might as well fix it!"
You can do it that way but an impact wrench is easier.100% but needed my car. Already had to wait fo part ofr unexpected belt tensioner breaking.Not sure how to do it yet. How do I get it off?? I don't have impact wrench. Someone said you can do it with a screwdriver jammed. Need more research before I'm ready. If anyone knows please advise thank you
Did you ever get around to doing this job? What strength impact do I need? Still need to do mine was debating on having the dealer do it since I dont have any of the tools. Impact wrench. My torque wrench does go above 85. Don't have the pulley holding tool or the socket. 4 things I'd have to buy.I had this talk w @JLL and others and the prevailing diy tool is impact wrench. I have to replace the seal on daughter's '14 rs (and probably my "12 eco) and plan on buying a medium strength corded impact wrench from harbor freight at about $80-90. Hope it will do the job.
I may try to muscle it off using a breaker bar and lock the pulley in place with a hand tool but will have the power tool on hand.
I agree. The crankshaft is a lot more likely to turn when you have a breaker bar + cheater pipe on there trying to break the bolt free than when using an impact. Seems the impact would actually be a gentler way because it applies and removes force in quick busts – that’s why you can remove bolts in pulleys/idlers so easily whereas the pulley would just spin if you used a wrench.Quoted From
Somebody correct me, if I am wrong, but as long as the vehicle is in gear, Park for automatics, or 1st for manuals, nothing is going to spin (ie: connecting rods).
I don’t know what your mechanic is talking about, he must have had a bad experience one time, or a good reason for telling you that.
And that is why this forum is AWESOME! Thanks Beefy, very very good point…there you go again with stating the obvious for me 🙂Quoted From :
The engine is free to turn when a car is in park. The torque converter is a fluid coupler. It will not engage the transmission with only a few hundred rpms. Otherwise, how would you start the engine? You don’t put it in neutral. That’s why you have to push in the clutch or put the car in neutral on older model standard trans cars/trucks that don’t have a NSS.
I will remove the motor mounts so as to replace the serp belt and tensioner. Also removing the wheel and cracked wheel well liner to replace it. That will also allow space to use the impact wrench straight on facing the front of the engine/balancer bolt. I have a new bolt. (but failed to get new motor mount bolts...) I'll improvise with securing the pulley. I bought the Harbor Freight corded Bauer 1/2" 300 ft lb max. And an impact 1/2-3/8 adaptor for the socket. Hoping it will be ok.Excellent! Planning to tackle this next weekend possibly if I get all the parts and tools by then. Did you buy the new bolt? Not suppose to reuse old one.
- What pound strength impact wrench did you get?
-How are you going to hold the pulley still for torquing? Screwdriver or special tool?
- Are you removing the motor mounts? Or trying to go around through wheel well only?
Looking forward to hearing your results and feedback!! Good luck!
Many times the cause of the crank seal failure is the failure of the PCV valve in the intake manifold. This causes the block to over pressurize damaging the seal and more than likely other gaskets. I would look into this if you have not installed a fix kit yet..I was replacing my belt and water pump and noticed a lot of oil around the pulley below. This is from the crankshaft fully seal? How much of a rush should I be in to fix this.? It's not dripping on the driveway no noticeable low level and dipstick. I don't feel like taking everything apart again for a while and sucks I will have to buy new motor mount bolts again.
Your half way there! I replaced my belt and tensioner a few months back and motor mount bolts. I'm wondering how hard it would be without taking the mounts out. Do you think there's enough room to be able to loosen the tensioner to get the belt off and room to torque down the pulley bolt without removing the motor mounts?
I usually use my weight and stand on the breaker bar to loosen tight lugs lol surprised the impact couldn't get em. I looked up that Bauer corded impact 300 lb. Says 1050 breakaway torque. Would think that should easily get the lugs loose. They even show pictures of taking off lug nuts. On sale for 69.99
Awesome! Good to hear you it's going well and got it off without the impact.. You've given me more confidence to do it. Really the only thing I was worried about is holding that pulley still. I found a pic of the screwdriver method(attatched). Is this where and how you did it?I found removing the motor mounts and wheel well liner was essential. I did not use the impact wrench because I tried the 18" breaker bar first with one hand and secured the pully with a heavy screwdriver with the other hand all from above. Leverage and firm torque removed the bolt. Since I felt the torque necessary to remove the bolt, I have a good idea how tight it should be during reassembly.
I will return the impact wrench to HF, all my work on this car was by hand so far, this particular power tool will not be useful.
Be mindful of the pully orientation and watch for the internal "washer" that the pulley shaft fits into. It is free to move around and I had to position it to accept the pully shaft before it would sink down out of position. Note how close the pulley is to the timing cover before removing so you'll know if it is seating correctly during reassembly.
This is not a difficult job except for the guesswork of doing it for the first time.
In a nutshell, removing and reinstalling the bolt from above with mounts removed; and installing the new seal from the wheel well is the winning combination imho.
Yes for removal. Opposite side for install. Screwdriver can wedge against the wheel well metal both ways.Awesome! Good to hear you it's going well and got it off without the impact.. You've given me more confidence to do it. Really the only thing I was worried about is holding that pulley still. I found a pic of the screwdriver method(attatched). Is this where and how you did it?
Yes the cruzekit is THE fix. V3.4Thank you for confirming. I thought I read that somewhere. Don't wanna blow me new seal. This kit doesn't look to hard to do..is everyone in agreement that these kits are legit good way to go?
V3.4+ PCV Fix Kit This fix kit addresses the intake manifold check valve failure on the GM 1.4L Turbo LUV/LUJ and eliminates the need to replace your intake manifold. This kit has been improved and proven since 2019 and uses a number of custom designed fittings, check valves, and hardware. Note...cruzekits.com