Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
(Edited with current pic)
293836

----------------------

Hey there, decided I'd do a thread for my Cruze. Back in September I bought a spiral black 1.8L manual 2012 Cruze w 295k km/ 183k ml. Decent condition, handles like a go kart. apparently the motor was replaced with a brand new one at 125k km so only has 180k km on it (timing belt time)

Off the hop I changed engine oil out to synthetic, changed out the transmission oil for 50/50 of amsoil synchro mesh and heavy gear. Changed out the engine and cabin air filters. Flushed the coolant with distilled water and topped off with prestone anti freeze.

290081

About a foot long piece of hose, and a old outlet power supply as a pet **** turning tool.

Since then I changed the oil at 7k km / 4350ml. Driven to currently 304k km /189k miles. Added in a 500w rms alpine amp with a dual 12" sub woofer box. Spliced into the factory harness with 20/9 wire and ran it through the console and rear seat. Mounting the amp on the smaller of the two rear seats.

290082

Thumps real good, so good my rear veiw mirror vibrates out of place

Eventually I want to add some pearl to the side chrome window bars, as well either try a plastic rejuvenator or paint the plastic roof strips pearl too as they're looking sun damaged.
290083


The rear chrome bar will get the same treatment and I want to give the front some light 'brows'. In addition to that possibility pick up some head lights to compliment the brows.

Mechanically I need to take a look at the drums brakes and have new pads and drums if needed, I think the battery is getting to end of life, and the timing belt is coming due. I also need to fix the gear for the heat mode actuator door for defrost.

More to come
 

·
Administrator
2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red
Joined
·
12,167 Posts
Mechanically I need to take a look at the drums brakes and have new pads and drums if needed,
How to Adjust Rear Drum Brakes

I think the battery is getting to end of life,
Both positive and negative battery cables at the battery are torqued to 40 in-lbs
The battery plate nuts are torqued to 106 in-lbs
and the battery hold down arm is torqued to 80 in-lbs
Service Bulletin - NHTSA SB-10057574-8899
SB-10089945-2280
How-To: Installation of the Big 3 Cruze Kit
Clean the Terminals
Cruze Battery Upgrade Options

and the timing belt is coming due.
How-To: Timing Belt 1.8L and 1.6L

I also need to fix the gear for the heat mode actuator door for defrost.
No air from vents!
Wont kick into Defrost
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did a 1800km trip over the weekend and had the service traction control message pop up some 1000km into it. Stopped off the road for a visual and feel to find the front right rim was warm leading me to believe the brake assembly is sticky and is actually what's causing the brakes to grind like they're canning over... I say canning over as the pads and rotors on the front were new when I bought the car 15k km ago, also explains the warped feel during spirited braking from high speeds.

Hoping the sticky assembly is the issue causing the abs/traction systems to kick off. When it kicked off I was on the highway and had double clutched from 6th to 3rd at 120km/h and eased into wot, don't know if I hit a strip of ice or it was after I had shifted into fourth that the rpms spiked some 1500 and the abs/traction kicked off. But the clutch has been solid otherwise so don't know, I'll report back when I figure it out.

On the other hand I made up a parts order. Got new slide pins an boots for the front calipers, new spark plugs an boots, and, a timing belt.

Might see about servicing the car this weekend, good excuse for a brake fluid flush too as I'll be in all 4 corners for the brakes.
 

·
Administrator
2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red
Joined
·
12,167 Posts
Did a 1800km trip over the weekend and had the service traction control message pop up some 1000km into it. Stopped off the road for a visual and feel to find the front right rim was warm leading me to believe the brake assembly is sticky and is actually what's causing the brakes to grind like they're canning over... I say canning over as the pads and rotors on the front were new when I bought the car 15k km ago, also explains the warped feel during spirited braking from high speeds.

Hoping the sticky assembly is the issue causing the abs/traction systems to kick off. When it kicked off I was on the highway and had double clutched from 6th to 3rd at 120km/h and eased into wot, don't know if I hit a strip of ice or it was after I had shifted into fourth that the rpms spiked some 1500 and the abs/traction kicked off. But the clutch has been solid otherwise so don't know, I'll report back when I figure it out.

On the other hand I made up a parts order. Got new slide pins an boots for the front calipers, new spark plugs an boots, and, a timing belt.

Might see about servicing the car this weekend, good excuse for a brake fluid flush too as I'll be in all 4 corners for the brakes.
How-To: Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors
DIY Flush Brake Fluid
AMSOIL Products for the 2011-2015, 2016 Limited Gen1 Cruze
Plugs/coil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's the wheel bearing that has gone out on it, just started to notice a notchyness while turning today.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
290225

First off I forgot a pic of the drum off, and to my surprise the pads are hardly worn. Put about 10 and 14 clicks into the right, an left side. Brakes feel is much better and my parking brake is back to an acceptable height. I'll be revisiting the rear again as I need to grind the drums down so I can get the pads tighter.

Wheel bearings are on order.

290226
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
290489

I got moog replacements. And had the pleasure of changing out both front hubs, and man I had to get a oxy torch to get the knuckles hot enought to let go, about 8 years of salt holding it all in. Also had the pleasure of assembling the car in a snow storm.

290490

Good ol outdoors.



Good news no more brake noises, and the front feel like they glide better. Only thing now is getting to the issue of the abs system. It's going as far as illuminating the parking break light with alarm. I'm not sure what's up there all wheels are free and breaking is fine, and the sensors didn't look damaged.

290492


Next issue after abs is going to be the top valve cover the seal is leaking at the upper most bolt to the left of the dip stick and is making quight the stink in the cabin.

Couple more months and I'll be able to paint, I've been pondering the pearl, as well as, titanium silver, raspberry, or winter grey.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
290644

Patiently waiting for spring to paint. I want to taper the top out across the lip of the hood.

Changed the spark plugs out and the engine feels crisp, found both sides of the valve gasket are leaking. Did a fluid check and found the coolant reservoir near empty with oil in it, also noticed a coolant leak twords the rear of the engine bay.

Spring time I'll be taking the head off and getting the gaskets changed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
290772


Did another 900km round trip throught the country mostly overnight in a snow storm. Had fun, exercised my hand brake in some empty parking lots. and enjoyed sliding on the back roads too. Also exercised my snow shoveling capabilities with my car shovel.

First beaching I needed the shovel for. there were a series of 90 bends that went on forever as the road conformed to the lake front. Just had to try and touch the corner on my way by one bend and ended up getting sucked into the snow bank as my rear end came round, not bad quick shovel and I'm out n rolling 10 minutes

Second time that trip there was a blind corner overlooking a downtown core in a valley. Naturally assuming the road would of continued, but nope. I was thankfully slowing down for the veiw but once the decent started there was no making the turn. Lodged the car up a bank of plowed snow. Shoveled forever on that one, got to a point the tires were bout 4" off the ground. Eventually lost my shovel trying to get the snow out from under the engine and melted the shovel on the exhaust as the car dropped down. Another thankfully I was able to get out after a little more hand digging. But left some pieces of bumper behind, tore the bottom lip off and ejected the marker light.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
290968

Got some time to add tape to the design. Still not 100% on it as the transition 'swoop' from the top point to the out side of the light doesn't look natural yet, and still undecided on wether to go with the pearl or titanium silver paint.

In other news I ordered up a top end gasket kit and bolts to do the head gasket, and new coolant reservoir tank( mine is oil brown now). And am saturating the exhaust manifold bolts everytime I get home for the day so they'll hopefully come off easy

I'm possibly looking at picking up new door speakers as I see a good component kit on sale ( speakers and tweeters) get me some better speakers so I can get more bass out of the subwoofer. As after 30 on the stock head unit there's no real increase in loudness just crystalie ear rape.
290974


Best setup so far, subwoofer back as far as it'll go, when the bass hits you can just feel air moving around your head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
291177

Picked up these passive component speakers for the front doors. And...



291176

Committed to going the visible speaker route, just unsure to remove the whole bezel as the speaker hole is offset to the outside ring. I'm fabing up MDF bezels in my spare time so have the option. As for the out side rings I plan to paint them pearl...

I went and had a look at paint colors and it came down to Ford's oxford white, GM's ultra metallic silver, and Toyota's pearl. Matching them up to the spiral metallic grey the pearl looked the best out of the three, so pearl it is.


I tried getting to the head gasket this weekend but not enough time for what I want to do.

The to do list.
  1. Head gasket
  2. Timing belt
  3. Any leaking head seals/ new intake, valve cover, and exhaust seals
  4. Change PVC valve (SKP Replacement)
  5. Clean up grounds, alternator, starter,/ desalinate the engine bay, change out hose clamps for new SS.
  6. Run 4awg wire from alternator to fuse block
  7. Replace the coolant tank
  8. Change oil n filter

Exhausting just writing the list lol. And if I get that all done and have time I get to,

  1. Replace the rear drums
  2. Flush the brake fluid.
  3. Bleed the clutch fluid.


For something fun Im just theoretically thinking about a in engine bay slow cooker... of sorts. There is a constant flow of coolant going throught the throttle body back to the "reservoir." So one could make a re route to a pod and make a "hot pot" for cooking using the cars heat via a coil of tubing wrapped and insulated around something. I sometimes get carried away and go out for 1000km day tours, and am also thinking about modding my car for camping so it'd be awesome to have that ability with a turn of a couple valves.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Oh dear,

I had fun changing the head gasket this week. Did the gasket, oil cooler, intake an exhaust seals, cleaned the power and ground connections to the starter and alternator, added the 4awg power wire, and finished with a new valve cover seal and pcv valve...

291443


A bit of burnt oil on the timing area?

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive engine gasket Automotive design Vehicle


Hit up everything with a razor blade then wet sanded with 400 grit sand paper

291446


291447


291448


New timing belt. it was rather pretty satisfying changing the belt. I timed the engine and sharpied on some carry over marks. If you don't use the locking tools for this here 1.8l the exhaust cam will rotate slightly. easy enought to man handle it into time when sliding the belt on.


the valve of which I messed up on the install and ended up burning 1.5L of oil when I went out for a jaunt after work. There was a bit of lugging around 3500-4000rpm by 5000rpm I was laying down a massive oil cloud, Culprit? When you slide the valve in you have to get a thin sheet of plastic to cover the hole in the valve cover so the seal doesn't get pinched. Once in pull the plastic out and enjoy life instead of killing people with giant smog clouds on a windless morning lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
291449



Have to use a heat gun to make sure the plastic doesn't snap on the valve cover. Use a slot screw driver to bend the clip back then take a exacto knife and cut off the tabs of the pcv valve.

291450


291451


291452


291453

And this is what happens when you don't use the plastic trick. The seal got stuck and knicked. Causing a huge leak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mmmkay got a buddy to run the obd codes for the CEL and I got a,

p2070- intake baffle actuator mabober
C0800-03- low voltage bcm, sounds like my battery.
C0045, 18 throught C0050,18- all 4 wheel speed sensors coming up shot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Something to do with the battery...

291573

Yeah the fuse box ground that bolts on to the strap was corroded so bad it had pretty much no contact.

291574

I'm guessing this here battery is original? It's an ac delco, no date sticker. New battery is a Interstate mtx H7 AGM. It's a beast and rightfully so makes the car start hesitation free. That and the subs hit a bit harder too so all round win as I plan to do camping and use the battery to run camp accessories.

291575

And it nestled into the tray. Cleaned the ground strap and grounds at the frame with a wire wheel and some sand paper. Wiped on a light film of dielectric grease and torqued everything down. Then masked behind the connections and sprayed on a coating of white lithium grease.

Electrically speaking I still have to hook up that power wire from the alternator, and get a battery terminal so I can replace the factory ground strap with a 4wg return.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
291576


And I'm getting closer. I went to the shop looking for a component set on sale, and they didn't have it. So buddy sold me these guys for the same price. They're JL C1 650s decent set and clear highs. Right now I just got this fabbed in spot and hooked up. Got to do the other door yet too, then the rear doors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
291698


Got the passenger speaker swapped out. I tried my best to copy the holes from one bezel to the other but failed so the speaker is sitting a little low in the door.

As for the sound, it's amazing. Like getting a sub woofer and hearing all those lows, but now it's the highs... a whole package.

291699
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
291752

Hmmm I wonder if the tire's sidewall is okay. There seems to only have a visible rub mark / crease on the inside sidewall from the distance I drove to get off the road.

And yeah I messed up. Going down a twisty gravel road I came into a decending right hand turn to tight and tried using the low shoulder to save the turn. It went fine until the rear came out a little faster than I was hoping for. Leading the right hand wheel to pull me down into the ditch/wash out area. First bounce was a little crazy as the car had this I'm going to roll feeling, second bounce leveled it out and I rolled out on to the road, but girl got pretty beat up.

Blew the radiator supports clean off so the rad pack is just sitting there, and maybe broke the fan support too. Cracked more of the bumper, and the wheel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
291831

Not looking good. All 4 mounts broke holding the radiator, good news is it got me too and from work for just over a week like this.

291832

The mounts seemed to be brittle from years of salt as the backs were broke none the less...

291833

I got them on with a little fuss...harder putting the bumper back on than anything

291834

New rims up front, with a new tire on the front left. Funny thing is the old guy at the rim shop couldn't start my car lol. I was out walking around and was in the right place right time to witness the shop hand investigating my car just as the old guy opens the door to get out, and I asked him if the melenial anti theft device is getting to em, lol. (Because it's a manual.) Old guy comes out matching my comment saying I can drive it in too. Lol.

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire

Plans to go white wall. And paint the rotors and calipers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Next coming project is going to be the brakes again. With the new rims I want to paint the caliper and exposed surfaces of the rotors white along with painting the rear drums white. I want to experiment with diy'ing in rim signal / brake lights. That and see bout drilling adjuster acess holes in the drum face so I can use the rear pads, that I blindly got, before the car gives the ghost.

Also need all 4 wheel position sensors as none are showing a resistance. Which gives me good acess to the grommet behind the wheel well liner to run the power wires for said LEDs. Just have to figure out the circuitry to have that option as I'd plan on a constant fixed color that either goes out and blinks orange for the front signal, or illuminates to red upon braking.
 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Top