The brake light sensor is part of the pedal assembly. It sounds to me like this sensor has come loose and moved a little bit.
Cruze 1.8 LT sticking brakes
Hello,
I have a UK model 2010 1.8 LT CRUZE which has 50k mileage.
For the last few days I have been noticing that when I set off at the traffic lights my brake lights remain on even after taking my foot off the brake pedal. This happens sometimes.
Sometimes releasing the clutch pedal makes the brake light turn off, but mostly it just remains on and I have to put my foot under the brake pedal and give it a pull (upwards) to make the brake light turn off.
If you're wondering how I can tell if my brake lights are on, in the night I can notice my middle brake light in the rear screen.
Any idea on what could be causing this?
Thanks
I have a UK model 2010 1.8 LT CRUZE which has 50k mileage.
For the last few days I have been noticing that when I set off at the traffic lights my brake lights remain on even after taking my foot off the brake pedal. This happens sometimes.
Sometimes releasing the clutch pedal makes the brake light turn off, but mostly it just remains on and I have to put my foot under the brake pedal and give it a pull (upwards) to make the brake light turn off.
If you're wondering how I can tell if my brake lights are on, in the night I can notice my middle brake light in the rear screen.
Any idea on what could be causing this?
Thanks
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This. I haven't looked at the Cruze yet, but when I used to work at a vehicle assembly plant, the brake switch was just a push in and turn style switch assembly. Seemed very easy to come loose if knocked. If the switch is anything similar to that, this may be your problem. I'd grab a light and take a look under the dash at the brake pedal assembly and see if you can spot the problem.The brake light sensor is part of the pedal assembly. It sounds to me like this sensor has come loose and moved a little bit.
The brake light sensor is part of the pedal assembly. It sounds to me like this sensor has come loose and moved a little bit.
Thank you guys. I'll have a look near the brake pedal and see if I can spot anything.This. I haven't looked at the Cruze yet, but when I used to work at a vehicle assembly plant, the brake switch was just a push in and turn style switch assembly. Seemed very easy to come loose if knocked. If the switch is anything similar to that, this may be your problem. I'd grab a light and take a look under the dash at the brake pedal assembly and see if you can spot the problem.
I'm a bit paranoid now as I'm always thinking that I'm driving with the brake lights on, especially in the day time where I can't see their reflection in the rear screen.
Let us know what you find, please.
Says it all, gummed up master cylinder or a screwed up brake booster. Assume 50K is KM. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, always had been and still is, further problems are created with ABS. Liars claim it does not interfere with normal braking, it sure in the HAIL does. Sticking valve prevents fluid from returning to the master cylinder, and the size of the Cruze ABS module can fit in my shirt pocket. Making these dang thing cheaper and cheaper.Sometimes releasing the clutch pedal makes the brake light turn off, but mostly it just remains on and I have to put my foot under the brake pedal and give it a pull (upwards) to make the brake light turn off.
Control is done by a cheapass microcontroller with code store in flashram, drives a power MOSFET transistor that can leak causing the valve to open at a very slow rate. AH's made this law, really tees me off since they don't even know their butt from a hole in the ground.
System should be flushed with new brake fluid at least every two years, don't let your AH dealership do this, will return your vehicle with a brake pedal going to the floor, AH's don't even know how to bleed brakes, speaking from experience with these AH's.
Then to make it even more miserable, need a way overprices scanner to activate the ABS pump because this POS always gets air locks.
And you wonder why we have problems. If those pads, can't return to home position, they drag and burn up your rotors or drums, but say this is not covered under warranty! One problem leads to another.
Will do. The dealer gave me an RAC warranty for 3 months with the car. I've taken it to a garage and they'll let me know about the issues on Monday.Let us know what you find, please.
Sorry, it's 50k Miles not KM. I'm letting the garage diagnose it and they'll get back to me on Monday. The car is under RAC warranty. so it seems like it will be okay, but these warranty companies try to wriggle out of paying for nearly everything.Says it all, gummed up master cylinder or a screwed up brake booster. Assume 50K is KM. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, always had been and still is, further problems are created with ABS. Liars claim it does not interfere with normal braking, it sure in the HAIL does. Sticking valve prevents fluid from returning to the master cylinder, and the size of the Cruze ABS module can fit in my shirt pocket. Making these dang thing cheaper and cheaper.
Control is done by a cheapass microcontroller with code store in flashram, drives a power MOSFET transistor that can leak causing the valve to open at a very slow rate. AH's made this law, really tees me off since they don't even know their butt from a hole in the ground.
System should be flushed with new brake fluid at least every two years, don't let your AH dealership do this, will return your vehicle with a brake pedal going to the floor, AH's don't even know how to bleed brakes, speaking from experience with these AH's.
Then to make it even more miserable, need a way overprices scanner to activate the ABS pump because this POS always gets air locks.
And you wonder why we have problems. If those pads, can't return to home position, they drag and burn up your rotors or drums, but say this is not covered under warranty! One problem leads to another.
Though. the dealer where I bought it from (which is 200 miles away) has to fix the car for free or else I can reject the car and get all my money back. According to UK law all dealers have to give the customer a 6 month warranty on vehicles they sell. Within 30 days of purchasing the car they have one chance to fix the car and if the problem isn't fixed then I can get a full refund, and from 30 days to 6 months they have to fix it.
Thanks for the advice.
FWIW I had a sticking front brake light switch on my motorcycle and like Nick says it was gummy fluid. Bleed your brakes (this should be done every few years anyway). The motorcycle is a 2007 (Harley Dyna) and I bled the brakes last year and I couldn't believe how bad the fluid looked.
Thanks for the advice Kelpie. I will try bleeding the brakes.
It's strange that this only happens after long journeys. When driving locally I can press/depress the brake pedal 50 time's and the brake lights would turn on/off just fine.
But after some motorway driving sometimes when I press the brake pedal and depress it the brake lights stay on, until I give the pedal a little pull from underneath.
Sometimes when depressing the clutch pedal this will give the brake pedal a little nudge and bring it fully back up and make the brake lights turn off (I'm assuming the brake and clutch pedals are connected).
I've taken it to a garage and they've said that everything seems fine. I'm running out of ideas.
I have a week's warranty left with an independent dealer I bought the car from here in the UK, the manufacturers warranty has ended.
I'd be grateful if anyone could give me any more ideas? I'm also running out of time.
It's strange that this only happens after long journeys. When driving locally I can press/depress the brake pedal 50 time's and the brake lights would turn on/off just fine.
But after some motorway driving sometimes when I press the brake pedal and depress it the brake lights stay on, until I give the pedal a little pull from underneath.
Sometimes when depressing the clutch pedal this will give the brake pedal a little nudge and bring it fully back up and make the brake lights turn off (I'm assuming the brake and clutch pedals are connected).
I've taken it to a garage and they've said that everything seems fine. I'm running out of ideas.
I have a week's warranty left with an independent dealer I bought the car from here in the UK, the manufacturers warranty has ended.
I'd be grateful if anyone could give me any more ideas? I'm also running out of time.
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