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Thermostat valve is kept closed by a very strong spring, heated wax in a closed chamber expanding is what opens it, if that wax leaks out, it will stay closed.

Is such a thing as a failsafe thermostat, valve has a weak spot in it that will break open permanently if the boiling water increases to the point to open it. And will have a cool running engine instead of an overheating one that can warp your head and cause a ton of really expensive damage. Apparently the Cruze is not using one like this. It does have an electric heater to fool it to opening at a lower coolant temperature when you hit the gas, but worthless if that wax leaks out.

Disappearance of the radiator cap, and 220*F operation for higher efficiency sure puts a stain on that plastic recovery tank, normally sees 25 psi of pressure. If your engine is overheating, those pressures will increase plus the temperature of that plastic. Can call this a chain reaction of events leading to your recovery tank failure. And should be perfectly obvious that it is leaking. And should have been replaced at the same time.

Guess these young kids never heard about a pressure test, shows instantly on a pressure gauge if it declines rapidly. You have a leak.

2.2 L Ecotech engine drove the water pump by the timing chain, if one bearing seizes in that single drive belt system, first thing you lose is your water pump. Not a good idea either.

No such thing as preventative maintenance, like to replace my thermostat at least every 50K miles, but check all the bearings in that single belt drive train. Alternator slip ring brushes also wear out and should be replaced.

35K miles sounds awfully premature, but GM outsources parts from many different vendors. Some thermostats have an aluminum housing, others are plastic, not even made to specs.

Ha, buying a vehicle today is like buying a lottery ticket.
 

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Banned
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A 26 buck part, wonder if the cap comes with it.



Have over 500 different grades of aluminum, have no idea as to the number of different grades of plastic. Do know the food grade plastic is far superior as is the kind they use on blister packs. Can twist it, jump on it, kick, then pop it out back to its original shape.

But not with automotive, just lightly bump it and it breaks apart. Same with aluminum in a throwaway pop can, far superior to the aluminum used in automotive, it doesn't corrode like aluminum in vehicles do. One difference, food packaging is indubitably throwaway, automotive is an arm and a leg.

SAE brought up this subject around 25 years ago, we should be looking into the food industry for far superior plastics and aluminum. This was sure ignored by the automotive industry. Ha, just trade it in for a new one.
 
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