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Cruze Battery Upgrade Options

165928 Views 120 Replies 51 Participants Last post by  Cruze CTRL
I had this discussion with bartonmd on the FB group earlier today and he provided a few options for battery replacement upgrades over what we have from GM. As you guys may know, the 1.8/1.4T battery tray is adjustable and has plenty of room left for a bigger battery.

Here are the specs for the OEM H5/47 group size, from an AutoCraft Gold battery:

H5/47:
520 Cold cranking amps
7.5" Height
9.57" Length
6.938" Width
Weight: 45 lbs
Price: $161.99

The following two group sizes fit in our battery trays. Here are the specs I found for the Advance Auto AutoCraft Platinum AGM battery. I strongly recommend any AGM battery. I've posted the differences over the OEM battery (assuming the AutoCraft Gold is equivalent or similar) in bolded green. The CCA specs and prices will vary slightly but not by a whole lot.

H6/48:
760 Cold cranking amps (+240 CCA = +46%)
7.5" Height
11" Length
6.938" Width
Weight: 45.66lbs (+0.66lbs = +1.5%)
Price: $174.99 (+$13 = +8%)

H7/94R:
850 CCA (+330 CCA = +63%)
7.5" Height
12.44" Length
6.938" Width
Weight: 51.83lbs (+6.83lbs = +15%)
Price: $187.99 (+$26 = +16%)


Here is what the OEM H5 battery looks like in the battery tray:


Here is what the H6/48 battery looks like in the battery tray:


Here's a picture of the H7/94R battery in the Cruze:



Remember, if you have an Advance Auto Parts store near by, there is almost always a 30% coupon available that will knock $50 off the price of a battery. Order online to pick up in store.
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I've also recently noticed my battery will be at around 11.6V before starting, and sits between 14.5V and 15.3V when the car is running. I'm concerned that since the alternator is always charging now, I'll wear it out. I have not observed any behavior problems yet (IE: Car alarm going off randomly, car not starting, CELs, etc)

Would it be wise to change the battery early, to try and save the alternator from premature wear? Or would it just be a waste of money? My car was built 1/2014 and it sat on a lot until I bought it 3/2015. Since then I've put on 34K miles, 20K of which was delivering pizza which requires an excessive amount of starting. I've also got a power thirsty 1600 watt amp that drew straight from the factory battery for 7 months before I installed a second battery and an 80 amp isolator relay in the trunk.

As I'm writing this I think I'm realizing that I should indeed change the battery....
 

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That gives me some concern. Assuming it's accurate, that's a completely discharged battery. However, I'd confirm that with a voltmeter on the battery itself.
I just checked the battery with my multi meter and it says 12.1V, when the car is off the DIC reads 12.1V and drops to 11.8V briefly after starting it, and jumps to 14.9V when the alternator kicks in. I drove around for 20 miles and the DIC read 14.9V the entire trip. I'm thinking the battery can't hold a full charge anymore, it might be time to replace it before it wears the alternator out.
 

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12.1V looks to be about 50% of charge. Now, that could be high discharge (perhaps self-discharge), or failure to be charged. Can't tell.

At this point, I'd say it's cause for some concern, but it's not pointing to what is wrong.

Note that after shut-off, the battery voltage will be high due to surface charge.
Is that something that can be addressed with B2B warranty?
 

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Good question. What I'm reading for the 2016 warranty is that it's only covered for 12 months. I guess the battery is considered something of a consumable. OTOH, I think I've read where others were covered under B2B. You probably should check the one you have.
I'll have to check next week. I'm about to hit 35K miles, so my B2B days are limited.
 
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