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Cruze Battery Upgrade Options

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I had this discussion with bartonmd on the FB group earlier today and he provided a few options for battery replacement upgrades over what we have from GM. As you guys may know, the 1.8/1.4T battery tray is adjustable and has plenty of room left for a bigger battery.

Here are the specs for the OEM H5/47 group size, from an AutoCraft Gold battery:

H5/47:
520 Cold cranking amps
7.5" Height
9.57" Length
6.938" Width
Weight: 45 lbs
Price: $161.99

The following two group sizes fit in our battery trays. Here are the specs I found for the Advance Auto AutoCraft Platinum AGM battery. I strongly recommend any AGM battery. I've posted the differences over the OEM battery (assuming the AutoCraft Gold is equivalent or similar) in bolded green. The CCA specs and prices will vary slightly but not by a whole lot.

H6/48:
760 Cold cranking amps (+240 CCA = +46%)
7.5" Height
11" Length
6.938" Width
Weight: 45.66lbs (+0.66lbs = +1.5%)
Price: $174.99 (+$13 = +8%)

H7/94R:
850 CCA (+330 CCA = +63%)
7.5" Height
12.44" Length
6.938" Width
Weight: 51.83lbs (+6.83lbs = +15%)
Price: $187.99 (+$26 = +16%)


Here is what the OEM H5 battery looks like in the battery tray:


Here is what the H6/48 battery looks like in the battery tray:


Here's a picture of the H7/94R battery in the Cruze:



Remember, if you have an Advance Auto Parts store near by, there is almost always a 30% coupon available that will knock $50 off the price of a battery. Order online to pick up in store.
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Bit of a update....looked at Diesel Cruze 94R yesterday.......Delco CCA rating 730amps.

Also, this is a 'AGM' design.....uh.....uh.....brain fade.....darnit!

Can't remember what the bloomin 'A' stands for......anyways, the rest is for Glass Mat.......one of you geniuses will have to pipe in....old age sucks at times....this is one of those times.
Big time energy release capability.......must really give that high compression diesel quite a boot the moment the starter engages.

Rob
absorbes glass mat
This may be a dumb question, considering it's obviously a larger battery. So, the larger battery will give you more cold cranking amps, but does that also mean that you get more amp hours. For example, can I listen to the radio longer with the engine off without worrying about killing the battery as quickly?

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Quick battery question for everyone. In January 2016 my OEM battery took a dump. I was in a pinch (couldn't do much research) and picked up a Bosch Platinum Series AGM H7/94R (spec wise a much better battery than OEM) from Pep Boys. The battery got me through the rest of the winter and was a champ all summer long. Just recently (start of November) I've noticed that in the mornings when I start my car (it sits outside overnight for about 14 hours), it cranks a lot harder and takes longer to turn over. This got me nervous, as its only been in the low 30Fs and IL winters get far colder than that. I took it to the dealer to have them do some testing on the battery, alternator, etc. Everything came back aces and I was told that the most likely cause was short tripping. I drive to and from work 5 days a week, 20 miles round trip (70% stop and go city, 30% "city hwy" - 40-50mph) and usually get a good hwy drive in once a week. In my mind, that's not really short tripping. What do you guys think? Am I really short tripping? Time for a new battery already? How long does it take to top off the battery charge from the alternator when driving? Any other causes? This was never an issue with the OEM battery. That was great until the morning it just died with no warning.
 

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Quick battery question for everyone. In January 2016 my OEM battery took a dump. I was in a pinch (couldn't do much research) and picked up a Bosch Platinum Series AGM H7/94R (spec wise a much better battery than OEM) from Pep Boys. The battery got me through the rest of the winter and was a champ all summer long. Just recently (start of November) I've noticed that in the mornings when I start my car (it sits outside overnight for about 14 hours), it cranks a lot harder and takes longer to turn over. This got me nervous, as its only been in the low 30Fs and IL winters get far colder than that. I took it to the dealer to have them do some testing on the battery, alternator, etc. Everything came back aces and I was told that the most likely cause was short tripping. I drive to and from work 5 days a week, 20 miles round trip (70% stop and go city, 30% "city hwy" - 40-50mph) and usually get a good hwy drive in once a week. In my mind, that's not really short tripping. What do you guys think? Am I really short tripping? Time for a new battery already? How long does it take to top off the battery charge from the alternator when driving? Any other causes? This was never an issue with the OEM battery. That was great until the morning it just died with no warning.
I don't think so at all. I used to use my car ~1 time a week to run errands (5-10 miles at most, many starts) and it would sit around undriven the rest of the time. Never had an issue with the AGM battery - always cranked right up and held itself above 12V.

What's the current voltage when the car is off? You could also have the battery load-tested at an auto parts store to see if it's providing the correct cranking amperage.

Battery cables are a common issue on these cars - don't know about the diesels, but I think even 2014's were affected by that.
 

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It was at 11.6 this morning. It was about 38F outside.
 
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I've also recently noticed my battery will be at around 11.6V before starting, and sits between 14.5V and 15.3V when the car is running. I'm concerned that since the alternator is always charging now, I'll wear it out. I have not observed any behavior problems yet (IE: Car alarm going off randomly, car not starting, CELs, etc)

Would it be wise to change the battery early, to try and save the alternator from premature wear? Or would it just be a waste of money? My car was built 1/2014 and it sat on a lot until I bought it 3/2015. Since then I've put on 34K miles, 20K of which was delivering pizza which requires an excessive amount of starting. I've also got a power thirsty 1600 watt amp that drew straight from the factory battery for 7 months before I installed a second battery and an 80 amp isolator relay in the trunk.

As I'm writing this I think I'm realizing that I should indeed change the battery....
 

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That gives me some concern. Assuming it's accurate, that's a completely discharged battery. However, I'd confirm that with a voltmeter on the battery itself.
I just checked the battery with my multi meter and it says 12.1V, when the car is off the DIC reads 12.1V and drops to 11.8V briefly after starting it, and jumps to 14.9V when the alternator kicks in. I drove around for 20 miles and the DIC read 14.9V the entire trip. I'm thinking the battery can't hold a full charge anymore, it might be time to replace it before it wears the alternator out.
 

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12.1V looks to be about 50% of charge. Now, that could be high discharge (perhaps self-discharge), or failure to be charged. Can't tell.

At this point, I'd say it's cause for some concern, but it's not pointing to what is wrong.

Note that after shut-off, the battery voltage will be high due to surface charge.
 

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12.1V looks to be about 50% of charge. Now, that could be high discharge (perhaps self-discharge), or failure to be charged. Can't tell.

At this point, I'd say it's cause for some concern, but it's not pointing to what is wrong.

Note that after shut-off, the battery voltage will be high due to surface charge.
Is that something that can be addressed with B2B warranty?
 

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Is that something that can be addressed with B2B warranty?
Good question. What I'm reading for the 2016 warranty is that it's only covered for 12 months. I guess the battery is considered something of a consumable. OTOH, I think I've read where others were covered under B2B. You probably should check the one you have.
 

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Good question. What I'm reading for the 2016 warranty is that it's only covered for 12 months. I guess the battery is considered something of a consumable. OTOH, I think I've read where others were covered under B2B. You probably should check the one you have.
I'll have to check next week. I'm about to hit 35K miles, so my B2B days are limited.
 

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WRONG WRONG WRONG, I was just going to start a new thread on this, because I just picked up a new battery at the GM parts Counter for free! Do Not bring the whole car in to the service area, Take the Battery out, it free replacement for 30 months, it has a secret Date code marked on the top of the battery.. This is the second Gm Battery I have got for free, the first one was two years ago, and now just got my second! This is the best battery ever, mine seems to last exactly 2 years... So today I called my service guy, and he was like NO NO, once your Bumper to bumper runs out so does your Battery warranty,,,All BS, The battery has a 30 month free replacement warranty, you don't need a receipt, the date code is on the battery for warranty, that's how all battery warranties work! Take the battery out, and bring it into the parts counter!
 

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This is true, however some manufactures pay for the ones that test better. When I was around 20 years old I worked at a factory making shop vacs for sears and home depot, the sears branded ones the electric motor had to test above a certain level, all of those below that were put on the Ridgid branded ones.

I could have bought a duracell battery at Sams Club that was identical to the sears battery for much less money, but knowing the above I chose to spend the money on the name brand. Both even have the same warranty.

Duracell AGM Automotive Battery - Group Size 47 (H5) - Sam's Club

Sears.com
Which, name brand - Duracell or Die Hard? Thanks.
 

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http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ttery-group-size-h7-850-cca-h7-agm/10210826-P

Use code SAVINGS

I am looking for a new battery and I think this will be it.
I like that Battery however a little pricey? It would cost me about $275, including tax, core charge and California recycling fee before the various savings promotions they offer, I see $30, or 20%, also your SAVINGS code or N61 to save 10%. Who spends $275 on a battery. Plus they can't ship it to me although they offer free shipping and are out of stock at the stores that are for pickup
 

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Which, name brand - Duracell or Die Hard? Thanks.
In the case above the Sears Die Hard would probably be the higher quality product. Yes it cost more than the Duracell branded ones that you can get at Sams club or Batteries Plus, but like I tried to point out in the previous post, sears does sometimes have higher standards for their products. Sears is known for a long lasting battery, so I can assume what I know as fact about their shop vacs, is probably true for their batteries too.
 

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I like that Battery however a little pricey? It would cost me about $275, including tax, core charge and California recycling fee before the various savings promotions they offer, I see $30, or 20%, also your SAVINGS code or N61 to save 10%. Who spends $275 on a battery. Plus they can't ship it to me although they offer free shipping and are out of stock at the stores that are for pickup

The code SAVINGS took $50.00 off for me, I was signed in and am a Speed Perks member maybe that is the difference also code TRT41 is still valid and it is good for $40.00 off.

Came to $188.00 with core when I was looking in my cart.
 

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Just thought I'd put my .02 in.

Replaced my battery today.

2014 Cruze LS 1.8l

Looked at the options and went with a 34R Optima Red top, 800CCA

Not a perfect fit but with some padding it works. Price was the same as a Duralast Gold and cheaper than the Platinum (which the diesel requires because the CCA).

It's just long enough you have to move the divider out and fill. It's just short enough you'll have to pad under the tie down. The pos terminal needs a bit of massaging but it will fit fine.

Overall works and fits great.

EDIT: added pic

The foam spacers is the stuff you buy to keep your pipes fr M freezing. Cut to fit.

Auto part Vehicle Engine Tire Automotive tire
 
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