absorbes glass matBit of a update....looked at Diesel Cruze 94R yesterday.......Delco CCA rating 730amps.
Also, this is a 'AGM' design.....uh.....uh.....brain fade.....darnit!
Can't remember what the bloomin 'A' stands for......anyways, the rest is for Glass Mat.......one of you geniuses will have to pipe in....old age sucks at times....this is one of those times.
Big time energy release capability.......must really give that high compression diesel quite a boot the moment the starter engages.
This may be a dumb question, considering it's obviously a larger battery. So, the larger battery will give you more cold cranking amps, but does that also mean that you get more amp hours. For example, can I listen to the radio longer with the engine off without worrying about killing the battery as quickly?
I don't think so at all. I used to use my car ~1 time a week to run errands (5-10 miles at most, many starts) and it would sit around undriven the rest of the time. Never had an issue with the AGM battery - always cranked right up and held itself above 12V.Quick battery question for everyone. In January 2016 my OEM battery took a dump. I was in a pinch (couldn't do much research) and picked up a Bosch Platinum Series AGM H7/94R (spec wise a much better battery than OEM) from Pep Boys. The battery got me through the rest of the winter and was a champ all summer long. Just recently (start of November) I've noticed that in the mornings when I start my car (it sits outside overnight for about 14 hours), it cranks a lot harder and takes longer to turn over. This got me nervous, as its only been in the low 30Fs and IL winters get far colder than that. I took it to the dealer to have them do some testing on the battery, alternator, etc. Everything came back aces and I was told that the most likely cause was short tripping. I drive to and from work 5 days a week, 20 miles round trip (70% stop and go city, 30% "city hwy" - 40-50mph) and usually get a good hwy drive in once a week. In my mind, that's not really short tripping. What do you guys think? Am I really short tripping? Time for a new battery already? How long does it take to top off the battery charge from the alternator when driving? Any other causes? This was never an issue with the OEM battery. That was great until the morning it just died with no warning.
I just checked the battery with my multi meter and it says 12.1V, when the car is off the DIC reads 12.1V and drops to 11.8V briefly after starting it, and jumps to 14.9V when the alternator kicks in. I drove around for 20 miles and the DIC read 14.9V the entire trip. I'm thinking the battery can't hold a full charge anymore, it might be time to replace it before it wears the alternator out.That gives me some concern. Assuming it's accurate, that's a completely discharged battery. However, I'd confirm that with a voltmeter on the battery itself.
Is that something that can be addressed with B2B warranty?12.1V looks to be about 50% of charge. Now, that could be high discharge (perhaps self-discharge), or failure to be charged. Can't tell.
At this point, I'd say it's cause for some concern, but it's not pointing to what is wrong.
Note that after shut-off, the battery voltage will be high due to surface charge.
Good question. What I'm reading for the 2016 warranty is that it's only covered for 12 months. I guess the battery is considered something of a consumable. OTOH, I think I've read where others were covered under B2B. You probably should check the one you have.Is that something that can be addressed with B2B warranty?
I'll have to check next week. I'm about to hit 35K miles, so my B2B days are limited.Good question. What I'm reading for the 2016 warranty is that it's only covered for 12 months. I guess the battery is considered something of a consumable. OTOH, I think I've read where others were covered under B2B. You probably should check the one you have.
Which, name brand - Duracell or Die Hard? Thanks.This is true, however some manufactures pay for the ones that test better. When I was around 20 years old I worked at a factory making shop vacs for sears and home depot, the sears branded ones the electric motor had to test above a certain level, all of those below that were put on the Ridgid branded ones.
I could have bought a duracell battery at Sams Club that was identical to the sears battery for much less money, but knowing the above I chose to spend the money on the name brand. Both even have the same warranty.
Duracell AGM Automotive Battery - Group Size 47 (H5) - Sam's Club
I like that Battery however a little pricey? It would cost me about $275, including tax, core charge and California recycling fee before the various savings promotions they offer, I see $30, or 20%, also your SAVINGS code or N61 to save 10%. Who spends $275 on a battery. Plus they can't ship it to me although they offer free shipping and are out of stock at the stores that are for pickuphttp://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ttery-group-size-h7-850-cca-h7-agm/10210826-P
Use code SAVINGS
I am looking for a new battery and I think this will be it.
In the case above the Sears Die Hard would probably be the higher quality product. Yes it cost more than the Duracell branded ones that you can get at Sams club or Batteries Plus, but like I tried to point out in the previous post, sears does sometimes have higher standards for their products. Sears is known for a long lasting battery, so I can assume what I know as fact about their shop vacs, is probably true for their batteries too.Which, name brand - Duracell or Die Hard? Thanks.
I like that Battery however a little pricey? It would cost me about $275, including tax, core charge and California recycling fee before the various savings promotions they offer, I see $30, or 20%, also your SAVINGS code or N61 to save 10%. Who spends $275 on a battery. Plus they can't ship it to me although they offer free shipping and are out of stock at the stores that are for pickup