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hmmm maybe a back street corner head machining shop could do it... still bench time of 110-150/hr i could see 4 hours for a full rip/ clean/ reassembly. unless they're quoting you removal and insertion, that would explain the cost.
Most shops in the USA don't have the tools to rebuild manual transmissions. Additionally they have special clips and alignment tools. Shops don't want to spend time creating the tools or trying to get the job done without the tools because it could result in the transmission having a very short lifespan.

If you watch the video on the M32 rebuild you will see what I am talking about. The tools are very specific to the point that tools from other transmissions don't even work. In the USA most shops that do transmission work only deal with autos since it is most of the market here.
The prices I was quoted are only for rebuilding the transmission itself, not removal or insertion or even shipping/handling.
 
Most shops in the USA don't have the tools to rebuild manual transmissions. Additionally they have special clips and alignment tools. Shops don't want to spend time creating the tools or trying to get the job done without the tools because it could result in the transmission having a very short lifespan.

If you watch the video on the M32 rebuild you will see what I am talking about. The tools are very specific to the point that tools from other transmissions don't even work. In the USA most shops that do transmission work only deal with autos since it is most of the market here.
The prices I was quoted are only for rebuilding the transmission itself, not removal or insertion or even shipping/handling.
For the bearing rings in the end case / main case I believe you, closest tool I've found to working would need a rework to be useable.


Now the main gear stacks that's basic LEGO, couple c clips and a basic ass shop press.




I know bearing tension needs to be set, and if you messed with a front spindle you have that feeling for how tight it needs to be.



2400 American sounds way over priced.
 
For the bearing rings in the end case / main case I believe you, closest tool I've found to working would need a rework to be useable.


Now the main gear stacks that's basic LEGO, couple c clips and a basic ass shop press.




I know bearing tension needs to be set, and if you messed with a front spindle you have that feeling for how tight it needs to be.



2400 American sounds way over priced.
Yep, it definitely is complicated. The tool itself is expensive, I talked to a shop in the UK and they told me they had to pay 3500 GBP for the kit from Getrag in Germany.
In the USA there are so very few shops that work on these transmissions especially. There are few shops that even do manual transmissions in general and a new transmission from GM is $4000.... so I guess they can get away with such prices.
 
Gas Cylinder Computer monitor accessory Font Engineering


currently at princess auto/ harbour freight for $15 bucks, all you would need to do is fab a cross bar and this would be the transmission case bearing ring puller.
 
The kit includes more than that, specifically the cylinders to press the clips properly for each of the spindles.
yeah, but at a diy aspect I finally found something that may require the least amount of pre fab to pull the rings out.
 
Hey fellas, so I have an update. I talked to the M32 guy over in Europe about our situation. He said basically there aren't too many upgrade parts available. I did however get my 1-2 shift to be way better, like totally acceptable. I dropped the 0% row to -60 in driver demand table, under idle/rpm/adaptive idle/proportional/prop coast multi- changed gears 0 and 1 to .2 from .5, and under idle/rpm/adaptive idle/follower/immed follower multi- changed the same gears 0 and 1 to .2 as well. These changes eliminated most of the rev hang. Then I also deleted my clutch delay in the hydraulic line and that really complimented the tune changes. Boom, great acceleration all the way through 4th (under WOT)! Such a relief, I was so embarrassed are the speedway last time I ran. Any thoughts on the tuning changes?
 
Definitely, but getting the rings out isn't the hardest thing. Putting them back in and putting the right tension on the gears is lol
There shouldn't be any tension on the "gears".

When I get around to it I'll post an independent thread for rebuilding my gearbox... Wanna get it painted, setup an oil cooler, and install a 27/44 6th gear set(29/39 is stock). No way of properly tensioning the bearings other than free hand one at a time with or without blue dye( to see if bearing is on center).




@VegasSonic
Do you have a light weight flywheel? Or just the mods mentioned? Took the long way home from work and had one opportunity to wot from first to second and as if it was shifting at 3k rpm.... I am NA so rev hang probably isn't as pronounced.
 
There shouldn't be any tension on the "gears".

When I get around to it I'll post an independent thread for rebuilding my gearbox... Wanna get it painted, setup an oil cooler, and install a 27/44 6th gear set(29/39 is stock). No way of properly tensioning the bearings other than free hand one at a time with or without blue dye( to see if bearing is on center).




@VegasSonic
Do you have a light weight flywheel? Or just the mods mentioned? Took the long way home from work and had one opportunity to wot from first to second and as if it was shifting at 3k rpm.... I am NA so rev hang probably isn't as pronounced.
If you check the videos online; they go through the process of assembling the transmission and show the press that puts the gears into place with the right tolerances. It is a specific tool from Getrag that does it. When I had an email conversation with the shop that made the video they explained that without the right tolerances the entire transmission will grenade quickly as the different parts can rub and that getting the proper tolerances without the official tool is extremely difficult.
 


Guys we have a winner, $25cad bearing puller through Amazon. Will need a tinny chamfer on the hooks to fully seat in the bigger races, but a cross bar with a couple spacers, to press against the structural case instead of the unknown thickness of metal behind the bearing.
 
Guys we have a winner, $25cad bearing puller through Amazon. Will need a tinny chamfer on the hooks to fully seat in the bigger races, but a cross bar with a couple spacers, to press against the structural case instead of the unknown thickness of metal behind the bearing.
Nice thread!
1. Through Amazon🙄.. smart buyer! Do they still have free returns on tools?:D
2. Ok, the metal behind is too thin.. so much so, they have an adjustable tool to support each bearing well on reinstall..
3. Otherwise you'll have to warm the case on an oil bath and deep freeze the races before inserting them or use another smart 'tecnique' to do it.
4. Are you modifying the case to receive the cooled oil? (straight to the offending races/tapered rollers).
5. What do you intend to use as pump (as in inexpensive)?
 
Nice thread!
1. Through Amazon🙄.. smart buyer! Do they still have free returns on tools?:D
2. Ok, the metal behind is too thin.. so much so, they have an adjustable tool to support each bearing well on reinstall..
3. Otherwise you'll have to warm the case on an oil bath and deep freeze the races before inserting them or use another smart 'tecnique' to do it.
4. Are you modifying the case to receive the cooled oil? (straight to the offending races/tapered rollers).
5. What do you intend to use as pump (as in inexpensive)?
#2 thought of that, need a crosser to press on the case as mentioned. thinking a piece of steel U-channel, notched out for bearing relief

Install? Pends how easy the races come out. Alot of videos of people doing there own thing

4 I was looking at the end case, the existing oil gallies, drilling out the pressed in balls and feed in top and bottom. Get to it when the tranny is further along.
 
#2 thought of that, need a crosser to press on the case as mentioned.

Install? Pends how easy the races come out. Alot of videos of people doing there own thing

4 I was looking at the end case, the existing oil gallies, drilling out the pressed in balls and feed in top and bottom. Get to it when the tranny is further along.
An oil cooler would definitely be pretty sick. That is the main problem with these transmissions is that they are small and there is nowhere for the heat to go.
 
An oil cooler would definitely be pretty sick. That is the main problem with these transmissions is that they are small and there is nowhere for the heat to go.

Got this a while ago, going to finish the tranny first before I iron out the cooler...


Been trying for a track day a year or less. Sadly all tracks require a couple hours drive, one being off the highway was a 3-½hr trek at 3-3200 rpm all the way there. Could only imagine how hot it got that day, four 20 min track intervals, and trip home.
 
Amsoil Synchromesh mixed (or pure!) with same brand's top of the line GL-4 75W-90!

If you can buy the RAVENOL brand, Ralph Schumacher's OPEL PHP race formula or any other PAO+Ester Synthetic GL-4 oil 75W-85/90
can be filled up to 3L as a guy had 4 Qts filled from the Lordsdown factory with no issues (6yrs) it helps avoiding the 170ºC these MT's like to attain with 2L.
For a M32 Rebuild, know-how and either special tools OR experience will be needed as:
"Shimming is one of the most crucial elements when rebuilding any gearbox and one of the most overlooked.
Why is it so important? Because shimming sets the bearing tension within the unit and this is essential for any sort of lifespan.
Too tight and the increased friction and heat will wear the bearing out too quickly.. too lose and the excessive movement will produce uneven wear and come apart spectacularly.

Sadly, shimming of a gearbox is individual to each unit, it requires the measure of the tension of the shaft and checking of freeplay.
Not something referenced to freely online.
Unfortunately the shimming on the M32 is known to be incorrect even from factory. This is particularly evident in the Vauxhall Insignia as the 1.8 models fail on only 40.000 miles.

If you use a local repairer, ask about their shimming process..
If they say they don't need changing or not sound confident on the subject, then it would be worth finding another repairer!
This could save you hundreds in the long run."
 
so anyone interested the "shim tool" is part number DT-60000-120. companioned to DT-60000-125 the studs spacing the case.

KENTIMPEX of hungary is a tool seller for m32 transmission, i guess they have all the specialty servicing equipment for some 2300 euro,($3700 canadian/$2700 amarican) or individual tools. link here> Search Results for “DT-60000” – KENTIMPEX Kft.

that's about 4hrs of google research so far has turned up, along side SQS Racing has a dog box kit for these transmissions.
 
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haven't gotten anywhere with the tranny rebuild, but every now n then look over youtube for any new rebuild videos.
 
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