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Check the spec in the service manual. I've seen photos of that screen and I doubt dealers get a different service manual.

I only stress this because we've had so many issues on this transmission being under-filled and years of experience in Europe has everyone recommending and repair manuals specifying 2.5 liters, and I think it's very important that people realize that.

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You act like I didn't spend years on the leading edge of development for the M32; sorry it wasn't in a Cruze.

I'm talking about initial fill. They don't come with 2.5 from the factory, and dealership prep guys don't pull them off the truck and put another half quart in.
 

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Check the spec in the service manual. I've seen photos of that screen and I doubt dealers get a different service manual.

I only stress this because we've had so many issues on this transmission being under-filled and years of experience in Europe has everyone recommending and repair manuals specifying 2.5 liters, and I think it's very important that people realize that.

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Are you referring to the 1st gen or 2nd gen? I would hope that GM is filling these correctly with 2.5 quarts at the factory. Looking at the owners manuals of both 2016 and 2017's there are now warning lights and chimes on the display for the manual transmission for the 2017 which I could not find in the 2016 owners manual...

MANUAL TRANSMISSION —RELEASE CLUTCH PEDALThis message displays and a chime sounds if the manual transmission clutch pedal is partially applied foran extended period of time while the vehicle is being driven. Driving with the clutch pedal applied can reducethe life of the clutch. Fully release the clutch pedal after each gearchange.

REDUCED PERFORMANCE —REDUCE CLUTCH USE This message displays and engine torque is momentarily limited if excessive manual transmission clutch slip is detected while the clutch pedal is fully released.Reduce clutch slip during acceleration from a stop and during gear changes to allow the clutch to cool. This should prevent further slips with the clutch pedal fully released. If this message displays repeatedly, see your dealer.

TRANSMISSION HOT —SLOW DOWN This message displays and a chime sounds if the manual transmission fluid is hot and if the vehicle speed is high. Driving with the manual transmission fluid temperature high can cause damage to the vehicle.Drive at a slower speed to cool the manual transmission fluid. This message clears when the vehicle has slowed sufficiently or if the manual transmission fluid has cooled sufficiently


This above is all on page 149 of the 2017 owners manual. Also they are calling for replacement intervals now every 45,000 miles (72,000km) and the part number spec'd (19259104 US 19259105 in Canada)comes up as a straight 70w GL-4 gear oil which is considerably thinner than the Amsoil the forum is using, leading me to believe there must be some sort of changes to the internals and/or bearings. Now where to confirm this, seems only logical they would do
something and increase the reliability especially with the 2nd gen getting a slight bump in power/torque. The tall unsporty ratios don't bother me, not looking to race, reliability is top priority as I keep my cars for around 8-9 years or so and it has to hold up for at least that long..Sorry for the long post
 

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You Guys think it would be possible to get GM to change the transmission/bearing on the warranty? I currently have 1750 000km on the eco and its way past the 100k warranty but is there any recourse? Any lawsuit on the way? My cruze is whining a bit these days.
 

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Do you guys think I could get a warranty fix for the transmission?I have a 2012 Eco cruze 175 000km. I have been told by GM dealer that the transmission bearing is leaking or going out. After reading here I feel like this is an oversight from Gm... Do you think it is possible to get it fixed under warranty or comped in any way? (warranty ends at 100 000km here)

Thanks for your input
 

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Hope one of you M32 manual transmission gurus can offer some insight to my odd situation. I spent about 3 hours at the dealership and ended up driving away confused and skeptical. Service advisor said my 2012 cruze required special transmission fluid, 11 quarts which they did not have on hand to do a flush. He offered a regular drain and fill of 4 quarts which I declined. They also "discovered" that my battery is kaput, and I declined for them to replace it... Now literally 8 hours later my battery starts to show signs of dying, engine cranks hard, windshield wipers and hazards come on, as it struggles to start, but the battery shows 14.4v.

I've researched my ass off, and last time I drained the oem fluid for Amsoil synchromesh my I ended up getting a warranty replacement transmission less than 5,000 miles later because it would pop out of 3rd gear, and after that I ended up getting another warranty transmission at a different Chevy dealer not so long after that...

So right now I'm going to replace my battery and negative cable, and forget about breaking the seal on my transmission. Any suggestions?
 

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Hope one of you M32 manual transmission gurus can offer some insight to my odd situation. I spent about 3 hours at the dealership and ended up driving away confused and skeptical. Service advisor said my 2012 cruze required special transmission fluid, 11 quarts which they did not have on hand to do a flush. He offered a regular drain and fill of 4 quarts which I declined. They also "discovered" that my battery is kaput, and I declined for them to replace it... Now literally 8 hours later my battery starts to show signs of dying, engine cranks hard, windshield wipers and hazards come on, as it struggles to start, but the battery shows 14.4v.

I've researched my ass off, and last time I drained the oem fluid for Amsoil synchromesh my I ended up getting a warranty replacement transmission less than 5,000 miles later because it would pop out of 3rd gear, and after that I ended up getting another warranty transmission at a different Chevy dealer not so long after that...

So right now I'm going to replace my battery and negative cable, and forget about breaking the seal on my transmission. Any suggestions?
It takes 2.5 qts of normal MT fluid. It's obvious that service advisor or whomever you spoke with has no idea what they are talking about. How many miles on the current replacement trans?

Battery voltage needs to be checked with the engine off; you are seeing charging voltage. Better yet, have it load tested by an auto parts store.
 

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Transmission has close to 20,000 miles, so I'm not due for it according to the service interval, and I attempted to get some fresh fluid in there as preventative maintenance.
 

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Transmission has close to 20,000 miles, so I'm not due for it according to the service interval, and I attempted to get some fresh fluid in there as preventative maintenance.
If it is still shifting ok and not hard to get into 2nd or other gears, I think you're ok for at least 10-15k. The newer GM MTF isn't as horrible as it used to be, at least from my replaced transmission.

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If it is still shifting ok and not hard to get into 2nd or other gears, I think you're ok for at least 10-15k. The newer GM MTF isn't as horrible as it used to be, at least from my replaced transmission.

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Still functioning as normally as I can recall. It doesn't like being slam shiifted and the linkages under the hood are pretty loud ofcourse.

I've been applying white lithium grease to the base of the shifter in the center console every oil change. Other than Amsoil synchromesh are there any other tweaks/mods to make sure the gearbox holds up over time?
 

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Still functioning as normally as I can recall. It doesn't like being slam shiifted and the linkages under the hood are pretty loud ofcourse.

I've been applying white lithium grease to the base of the shifter in the center console every oil change. Other than Amsoil synchromesh are there any other tweaks/mods to make sure the gearbox holds up over time?
Not really much more you can do for it. I liked the Amsoil 75w-90 fluid better if you don't live somewhere that gets super cold.

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Hope one of you M32 manual transmission gurus can offer some insight to my odd situation. I spent about 3 hours at the dealership and ended up driving away confused and skeptical. Service advisor said my 2012 cruze required special transmission fluid, 11 quarts which they did not have on hand to do a flush. He offered a regular drain and fill of 4 quarts which I declined. They also "discovered" that my battery is kaput, and I declined for them to replace it... Now literally 8 hours later my battery starts to show signs of dying, engine cranks hard, windshield wipers and hazards come on, as it struggles to start, but the battery shows 14.4v.

I've researched my ass off, and last time I drained the oem fluid for Amsoil synchromesh my I ended up getting a warranty replacement transmission less than 5,000 miles later because it would pop out of 3rd gear, and after that I ended up getting another warranty transmission at a different Chevy dealer not so long after that...

So right now I'm going to replace my battery and negative cable, and forget about breaking the seal on my transmission. Any suggestions?
Sounds like another case of crappy dealer service. You'd think the service center at the place that sells the car you bought would know how to research information and know about their products. However they just see way too many vehicles to have specialized knowledge like you're going to find on a forum dedicated to the car.

So, I see you mentioned M32. There is two versions of this 6-speed manual transmission offered in the gen 1 Cruze, one for the 1LT & 2LT and a special M32 for the eco model. The only difference being gear ratios (the eco gets a triple over-drive transmission) It was discovered that GM was under filling the early year models with transmission fluid from the factory using only about 1.6 quarts. This would cause the bearings on the 5th & 6th gear shaft to be starved for oil, and the trans would also overheat causing premature failure. Symptoms for that are a whining noise that varies with road speed. The solution recommended by GM is to fill the transmission up to 2.5 quarts.

It's also pretty widely accepted that the stock transmission fluid used is also really crappy, and changing to Amsoil synchromesh or 75w-90, though the brand isn't not specifically recommended by GM, seems to solve these issues. I can personally vouch for the synchromesh as I changed it in my 1LT at 7400 miles, and I'm now at 43,000. My 1-2 grind issues (more on that later) seemed to decline sharply and it feels smoother over-all.

Another issue lies with the choice in gear ratios. The transmissions was designed to assist the Cruze in getting the best possible fuel mileage so the gear ratios really, really suck. The 1.4L turbo is a tiny engine and has no boost when you're idling at a stop so 1st gear has to be really short to get that heavy car going. Then the gap between 1st and 2nd is so large you could fit another transmission in there, and every gear after that only has the goal of trying to keep the engine under 2K while you drive. And the gear gaps are even worse on the eco model. That makes the syncro's job much harder and tends to cause a grind under hard & fast shifting from 1-2. The transmission requests that you take your time in between gears applying light pressure to the gear you want and allow it to slot itself in when it feels good and ready.

As for the battery, a healthy battery should read at the terminals ~12.7V when the car is off. But the only true way to know if your battery is good is to have it dynamically load tested. As mentioned, when the car is on, the alternator is usually charging (usually between 13.7v - 15.3v) to help supply electricity to the accessories and keep the battery topped off. When the battery begins to fail, it has a harder time holding a charge so the alternator has to supply much more electricity to keep it topped off so it works harder. Eventually it can't keep up and you get electrical gremlins or it will refuse to start. If your 2012 is still rocking the original 5-year old battery, it's almost certainly time to replace it but check to make sure it had the negative battery terminal recall taken care off first.

Hope some of this helps, let me know if you have any other questions or need some clarification on something above.
 

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Still functioning as normally as I can recall. It doesn't like being slam shiifted and the linkages under the hood are pretty loud ofcourse.

I've been applying white lithium grease to the base of the shifter in the center console every oil change. Other than Amsoil synchromesh are there any other tweaks/mods to make sure the gearbox holds up over time?
My 2012 has been holding up adequately, with the exception of the flywheel that needed changing once. I've switched back and forth between AMSOIL Synchromesh and AMSOIL 75W-90 GL-4, and have settled on the latter. Is imply need to let the car idle in neutral before taking off on very cold mornings for 30-45 seconds, but it works fine afterward. I always used 2.5 quarts (with the exception of the first time), and I haven't had the 5/6 gear shaft bearing failure that many with 2011/2012 transmissions reported. I have just over 69,000 miles now, and I am BNR tuned and also tow a boat (~1,000 pounds) regularly with my Cruze. My only issue is that my shifter starts sticking after long drives, but I suspect that has more to do with the shifter cables.
 

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Has anyone had any luck with the dealership replacing outside of regular warranty period/mileage? This started for me at about 110K (miles) but I kept racking up commuter miles until "I could get the time to check it out" and am now outside of even what I understand to be extended coverage amounts.
 

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Has anyone had any luck with the dealership replacing outside of regular warranty period/mileage? This started for me at about 110K (miles) but I kept racking up commuter miles until "I could get the time to check it out" and am now outside of even what I understand to be extended coverage amounts.
GM sometimes offers to cover part of the cost as "good will," but it's usually only a fraction like 25% of the cost. You still have to foot most of the bill.
 

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My 2012 has been holding up adequately, with the exception of the flywheel that needed changing once. I've switched back and forth between AMSOIL Synchromesh and AMSOIL 75W-90 GL-4, and have settled on the latter. Is imply need to let the car idle in neutral before taking off on very cold mornings for 30-45 seconds, but it works fine afterward. I always used 2.5 quarts (with the exception of the first time), and I haven't had the 5/6 gear shaft bearing failure that many with 2011/2012 transmissions reported. I have just over 69,000 miles now, and I am BNR tuned and also tow a boat (~1,000 pounds) regularly with my Cruze. My only issue is that my shifter starts sticking after long drives, but I suspect that has more to do with the shifter cables.
I'm about to pull the trigger on the 75W-90 Amsoil fluid, since it's not detrimental to switch back and forth between the fluids from your experience. I'm weary tho, last time I swapped out the OEM for Amsoil Synchromesh the transmission started popping out of 3rd gear less than 5k miles later, ended up with a new trans on the now completed warranty....

It's just a drain and fill procedure right? No flushing for a manual trans?? Also is it advisable to measure how much fluid was drained or will 2.4~2.5 quarts be going in no matter what?
 

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Discussion Starter #119
I'm about to pull the trigger on the 75W-90 Amsoil fluid, since it's not detrimental to switch back and forth between the fluids from your experience. I'm weary tho, last time I swapped out the OEM for Amsoil Synchromesh the transmission started popping out of 3rd gear less than 5k miles later, ended up with a new trans on the now completed warranty....

It's just a drain and fill procedure right? No flushing for a manual trans?? Also is it advisable to measure how much fluid was drained or will 2.4~2.5 quarts be going in no matter what?
I've run the Synchromesh fluid for 30k miles before, most of that tuned. Safe to say you had something going on that was unrelated to the fluid or caused by the old fluid.

2.5 quarts no matter what.

I've used and heavily abused both fluids. At 70k miles, the transmission is still shifting and feeling fine.

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I thought I would add a Me Too to this post. 2012 Eco with 44,500 miles started whining and I saw this post. I took it into the dealer to get the transmission oil changed and check on the noise. The service manager tried to convince me not to replace the oil until 60,000 miles. He called me a couple hours later and quoted me full price for the transmission replacement. I pushed back and got ~30% in "good will," which did little to improve my good will towards the company.

So here I am with a remanufactured transmission and wondering what to do to keep it in good shape. Has anyone had issues with the bearings in the M32 after filling it to 2.5 Quarts of Amsoil?
 
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