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To be frank, that line didn't just explode out of nowhere. That was a leak that had developed over time and got worse and worse. You should have been checking your oil level periodically and you would have seen the drop and would have taken it into the dealer and at least avoided the cost of the tow.

I just had my oil changed at the dealership I purchased it from a few months ago (November I believe), which included a full multi-point inspection. I had no reason to check the oil when I did not see or smell any sort of problem and had a recent inspection at a Chevy dealer. Again, I only knew there was a problem when I started smelling oil burning through the vent, which only began Sunday night. I sit in traffic a few days a week, and with the temperatures in Chicago I always have the vent going. I would have noticed if there was leaking to the point it was pouring on the cat like ended up happening that night, or any other spot of the compartment that was hot. There was no other warning sign before that point, so no reason to check the oil.


So either the previous dealer missed it, they saw it and did not inform me, or the leak only started after that change.


Regardless, even if I had for some reason seen it earlier I still would have called roadside to have it towed under warranty, per guidance by the dealership (who stated not to drive it).


The tow is the tow, I am not upset that about the cost of that ... it's the labor and part and the fact it was denied under warranty. The fact that they did not cover it, even though the service manager said it was the seals in the pipe, and then replaced it with a re engineered part shows that they are aware it's a problem.
 

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even though the service manager said it was the seals in the pipe, and then replaced it with a re engineered part shows that they are aware it's a problem.
What was the difference between the two? Two o rings instead of one? Maybe it was redesigned later than I thought, but I would have thought the 2014 would have had that.
 

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What was the difference between the two? Two o rings instead of one? Maybe it was redesigned later than I thought, but I would have thought the 2014 would have had that.
The original part did not have the heat shield wrapping on it, which as I understand from the original posts in this thread, helps prevent the heat from other components from rotting out the seals and causing failure.
 

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Think of it this way, lets say you were on a long road trip and that leak ran your car out of oil and blew the engine, Gm would of had to give you a new engine.....
 

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The original part did not have the heat shield wrapping on it, which as I understand from the original posts in this thread, helps prevent the heat from other components from rotting out the seals and causing failure.
Ok, I think I see where I'm getting my bad info from. My used 2013 that I bought at the end of 2014 has it, so I thought it was in place for at least part of the 2013 MY. But since this thread started in 2015, that work may have been a repair and not factory. So it's possible some or all of the 2014 MY missed that update.

We've had a thread elsewhere for a different problem that indicates if the dealer mis-enters the description of the part, the system will say "non warranty" when in fact it is warranty. So this may be an honest mistake on the part of the dealer. They go by what the computer tells them.
 

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Ok, I think I see where I'm getting my bad info from. My used 2013 that I bought at the end of 2014 has it, so I thought it was in place for at least part of the 2013 MY. But since this thread started in 2015, that work may have been a repair and not factory. So it's possible some or all of the 2014 MY missed that update.

We've had a thread elsewhere for a different problem that indicates if the dealer mis-enters the description of the part, the system will say "non warranty" when in fact it is warranty. So this may be an honest mistake on the part of the dealer. They go by what the computer tells them.

That's interesting to hear, I'll do some more searching. Is there anything I can really do after the fact if that was the case?
 

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Is there anything I can really do after the fact if that was the case?
Once it's shown to be warranty, you'll get a refund. The hard part is to prove that it's warranty. You could try reach out to the GM customer service here. They're not at all technical, but can refer your situation for someone to look at.
 

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Just took my '12 Cruze to Al Serra in Grand Blanc, MI for my cooler line leaking. First time they said it was the oil pan gasket and fixed under warranty. Neglected to do the line and went back today. Service writer looked at it and said it wasn't covered. Refused to even look it up in the system. Called customer care and waiting to hear back. This is not the kind of service I expect to get when others are having the line replaced under warranty. Mine is still under warranty for another 3 weeks and this is ridiculous I have to fight for this.
 

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It is NOT covered under the powertrain warranty, only standard bumper to bumper 3yr/36k. Mine has this issue at 75K. Every seal, gasket, and o-ring has been replaced on this tin box. Dealer charge is $695.00 for this. They tell me 5 hours to replace.
 

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[FONT=&quot]What is the o-ring situation exactly? When I got the 2nd version of the feed line, with the sleeve and 2 o-rings on the inlet side, it came with 2 green sealing washers for the banjo bolt, and that was it. Now i'm wondering what's this about using copper washers on the banjo bolt? I'm guessing, don't do that since it wasn't designed for copper washers. Is it acceptable to replace the worn out washers with green material, with black material washers? Did anyone find out what material the green color sealing washers were made of?
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I replaced my line today, but ran into an issue when tightening the bolt down into the oil cooler. I tried to torque it to 20 in/lb first, but the bolt just kept spinning and never got tight. It is leaking a little but the pipe seems to be staying in. Does anyone know what the thread pitch of the bolt is so I can put a helicoil in? I cannot seem to find any specs for this bolt.
 

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What is the o-ring situation exactly? When I got the 2nd version of the feed line, with the sleeve and 2 o-rings on the inlet side, it came with 2 green sealing washers for the banjo bolt, and that was it. Now i'm wondering what's this about using copper washers on the banjo bolt? I'm guessing, don't do that since it wasn't designed for copper washers. Is it acceptable to replace the worn out washers with green material, with black material washers? Did anyone find out what material the green color sealing washers were made of?

I have not seen this part but in the old days (when things were done properly) copper washers were the standard. if the green washers are simple flat washers then by all means you could use copper washers in their place.

What you want to do is to anneal the copper washers to make them nice and soft. The standard way to anneal copper is to heat the washers with a gas flame till red, then plunge immediately into cold water.

Thats about the best long lasting seal you can get.
 

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if you can measure the diameter of the thread accurately , you can then measure the pitch using a ruler.. measure ten thread ptiches then divide by 10.

e.g if ten threads measure 12mm then its a 1.2mm pitch.


You have to make sure it is a metric thread and not an english thread though.. if it is metric it will measure a whole number of millimeters, e.g 6, 8,10, 12mm etc. If it is english is will measure whole fractions of an inch.

Here is another way.. take the bolt to an autoparts store or Fastenal etc.. you can find a nut to fit the thread.. then that is your helicoil size.

I would be extremely nervous about driving with this bolt like that.. does the bolt have to withstand the oil pressure?.. if so it may blow out.. Not sure the set up so i can't say.

Are you sure there is enough meat to install a helicoil? You will have to be very careful to get out all of the chips (assuming the oil cooler is downstream of the oil filter and that the bolt hole is exposed to the inside of the oil cooler).
 

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Get a thread pitch gauge...you will get pretty frustrated trying to measure the pitch a small-diameter, short bolt with a ruler. It will be metric. The diameter can be measured with calipers.


Are you sure there is enough meat to install a helicoil? You will have to be very careful to get out all of the chips (assuming the oil cooler is downstream of the oil filter and that the bolt hole is exposed to the inside of the oil cooler).
The bolt in question is in a blind hole on a machined boss on the oil cooler housing. I can't remember how much extra material there is, but I'd be surprised if there wasn't enough for a helicoil. At any rate, no concerns about getting chips in the oil with a blind hole. All this bolt does is capture the edge of a ring welded to the oil line to hold it into the oil cooler.
 

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I have a 2011 Chevy Cruze Eco model and I kept smelling and seeing smoke coming from engine, I have had them change the cam shaft covers as there was a leak in the seal, they also changed the coolant pump which i guess there was a service recall on it, and last I had them replace the seals to the turbo oil bypass lines as that was showing we thought was the cause but I am still smelling oil at times. It only happens when you either put the engine under pressure when you go from a stopped position or as traffic is bad in tampa florida area stop go stop go traffic seems to bring out that smell, dealership in tarpon springs fl think I am crazy as i have brought it in so many times i think they cringe every time they see me. Any help on this would be great. the only has 77K miles
 

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If there were leaks that were fixed, there is probably still some residual oil somewhere on the exterior of the engine, and every so often some of it makes its way onto something hot. I've replaced all of those parts recently on my Cruze as well, and it has taken a couple months for this to stop happening.
 

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I just replaced the original oil feed AND the return pipe to the pan.

The feed pipe showed little to no issue and the oring was intact. It was not leaking, but i figured why not replace it.

Personally, i would have replaced the oring and soaked the pipe in kerosene and bottle brushed the pipe. 95k, and was original.

and I got some simple green and cleaned the underside of my car. I still have a slight leak somewhere, but most of it was stopped after i did the PCV fix by Xtreme
 
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